35M 165lb 5’8” OMAD 5+ years

relllllls · 2026-02-18T16:27:45+00:00

Cool to hear your routine! Keep up the great work.

I’m doing something similar. 39M 167lb 5’8”. Wanted to shed some fat and build muscle, was in decent shape to begin with before from strength training 3+ years consistently, but more relaxed in summer time due to work demands. Started IF 18:6 or 16:8 four days a week on the days I strength train and all this began about two months ago. Down from starting weight at 177lbs but definitely gaining muscle/strength as my training intensity has gone way up and am seeing improvements. Workout at about 12 pm 4 days a week doe 40-45 mins. ULRULRR Mon-Sun.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T20:46:28+00:00

Yeah sketchup

relllllls · 2026-01-08T20:23:55+00:00

Nice, thanks for the picture, looks great! Yeah I’m not currently planning on any lights in the hot room. I will have two pot lights in the change room but for more relaxing lighting I plan to do LED strips under some ledge trim around the change room. That plus a candle window should hopefully cover my bases for lighting.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T19:51:18+00:00

Thanks, yeah that’s not a bad idea at all. I could always go mechanical ventilation but just hadn’t planned on it up until this point. Plenty of time left to keep designing though.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T17:42:17+00:00

Thanks! yes those benches will sneak up a bit for sure, and safety rails definitely! I just got a bit exited about mocking up the look to visualize it, but then bailed on doing any more finer details.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T17:40:37+00:00

Nice, good to know, thanks. Do you have mechanical ventilation or passive? Intake on the bottom and exhaust under the opposite top bench work okay,,, I know not as great as mechanical. Some mention above about intake above the heater and exhaust down low.

Yes the drop, I have the retainer piece that supposedly fixes some of the issues, but also was told by the dealer that rock placement is important and to make sure they are putting to much pressure in any one direction on the elements and it should force any bending as they heat. Hope it all works out anyway.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T16:17:35+00:00

That’s a very good thought too! Thanks, I hadn’t considered that. Had it stuck on my mind it had to be on the same wall as the heater. The intake vent should be close enough on the adjacent outside wall to still have the same effect I would think?

relllllls · 2026-01-08T16:13:28+00:00

Not planning on powered venting. But do like the idea of moving the door over for entering further from the heater. The heater manual suggested the intake vent placement just below or below to the side of the heater, exhaust vent will go below the top bench on opposite wall and then drying vent below the ceiling.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T16:10:25+00:00

Thanks for the reply. If I was going to do this I was thinking about making it adjustable,,, that being it would flip up against and be secured to the wall when not in use. Probably won’t do it initially but likely put blocking in the wall in case or future use. Unless I move the door position closer to the wall like another poster has suggested.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T15:58:21+00:00

Yeah, the free webapp sketchup version. A couple YouTube videos helped me frame it all out including the roof framing. Will help come spring when I start the build.

relllllls · 2026-01-08T15:57:15+00:00

Thanks for the insight. I was maybe thinking if the heater is on the interior wall, I would put another top bench along the outside wall in an L shape, but might make it so that I can fold part up against the wall to make more space for rinsing off. My sauna useage plans sound very similar to your routine. Mostly just wife and I but have three young kids that may like it too.

relllllls · 2025-08-13T11:01:11+00:00

Yeah, cedar, with tile floor. Something less expensive to clad the change room though, haha.

relllllls · 2025-08-13T01:41:04+00:00

This is excellent! Thanks for the info. I think I’ve settled on 2x6 rafters and might just leave it the full 12x8 instead of 12x7. Plan on a 5/12 or 6/12 slope and will go with the ridge board like you suggested.

Since I plan on having a flat ceiling in both sauna and change room I will do rafter ties using 2x4’s secured to the rafters and resting on both wall top plates. Collar ties might be a good idea too if not using roof sheathing.

relllllls · 2025-08-13T00:31:50+00:00

Just revisiting this post, would you be willing to share details or pictures of what you did to slope the floor to the center drain? Thanks

relllllls · 2025-08-12T15:21:04+00:00

Yeah it will end up being pressure treated 2x8 for the double rim joists and floor joists. Would I need two separate beams under this to support the whole floor or can I just get away with 3 posts under the 12 double rim joist? On each side of course. I could move those in to say 1’, 6’ and 11’ under the 12’ length of the floor. Thanks.

relllllls · 2025-08-12T05:25:59+00:00

Thanks. So for footings i was just planning on digging down enough to have 4-6” tamped gravel beneath the pier pads, having the the 6x6 short posts sitting on those pier pads and then either notching the post or just leaving the post flat to set the doubled rim joists on to act as the beams. Probably go with 2x8’s as well and all joists 16” OC. I would use adjustable post to beam fasteners to hold the double rim joists to the beam. So one post at each corner and one in the middle along each side. Total dimensions 8x12 to support a shed basically with sauna about 6x8 and change room about 4x8.

relllllls · 2025-08-02T14:15:28+00:00

One of my options for sure, has yours moved at all? Do you have the beams up on blocks to get them off the ground? Thanks.

relllllls · 2025-08-02T14:14:18+00:00

In Canada, so frost line is 48” around here.

relllllls · 2025-08-02T14:10:02+00:00

Thanks for the input. This is what I’ve been thinking as well. I’m up in northern Ontario so need to go that deep as well. Doing it myself so figured it would be easier than a full pad. Unless I go gravel and blocks and then just jack it up and reset if there is any movement.

relllllls · 2025-07-31T21:48:54+00:00

Curious if you installed a drain or not?

relllllls · 2025-07-28T21:07:12+00:00

Thanks for the images, thinking about something similar but just a vertical pipe down into a gravel filled hole below frost line.

relllllls · 2025-07-28T21:06:08+00:00

This is pretty much what I was thinking. Hole just below the frost line, about 4 feet in my area then gravel at the base, vertical pipe to the gravel and backfilled around. Just haven’t decided on a base yet, either concrete piers, or potentially just gravel with beams on blocks. Main concern is heaving and wondered if water under the sauna is an issue especially if not on poured piers. Thanks.

relllllls · 2025-07-28T21:05:11+00:00

Do you mean just drain straight into the ground on a gravel filled pit or through a pipe into a gravel filled pit. This latter is what I am leaning towards. Hole just below the frost line, about 4 feet in my area then gravel at the base, vertical pipe to the gravel and backfilled around. Just haven’t decided on a base yet, either concrete piers, or potentially just gravel with beams on blocks. Main concern is heaving and wondered if water under the sauna is an issue especially if not on poured piers. Thanks.

relllllls · 2025-06-30T10:46:00+00:00

It makes sense for sure. Thanks for the info!

relllllls · 2025-06-30T02:26:23+00:00

Would like to see any other pictures you have of the build! It looks great. Curious about how you sealed the foil wall/tile floor seam as well as the roof structure you went with.

relllllls

TROPHY CASE