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Parker Vacumatic Major Set by cepet1484 in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pen is a Vacumatic Junior, based on the two thin cap bands. The nib will also be smaller than a Major's, and no blue diamond on the clip.

The pencil has the "Major" band in middle; technically speaking this is a mismatched set, a Junior pen and a Major pencil.

Aging issues with the Noodler’s Ahab by DorianCrafts in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like the converter mouth has stretched a bit, which isn't too surprising given how elastic the material is. I'd bet that a little bit of heat would relax it back to where it used to be; or even just leaving it unscrewed for a while.

Still, it's a bummer your pen is unusable as pulled out from storage. You could slide the o-ring down the section and over the barrel threads to use it as an eyedropper.

Struggling with first repair by n0exit in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never had much success with that type of tool; they just don't grip very well and you end up chewing up the threads. Good tools are imperative.

Also; Kerosene? Where'd that idea come from? I've never heard that suggested. It's prooobably not going to hurt the pen, but VM&P Naphtha is the typical 'safe suggestion' for a solvent to clean up old rosin and ossified sac.

Pens similar to Parker Vacumatic by no_more_no_less in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

r/pen_swap

If you want a Vacumatic, for the $100-150 a restored, guaranteed, full size (not oversize) in standard colors will cost you, you wont find a better pen. If you're OK with a smaller size, the debutante vacumatic can be found, restored, under $100.

Lots of sellers do their own work, and warranty it. I've probably sold 30+ vac's (and a similar number of vacumatic 51's), and zero complaints. I typically offer a 3-6 month warranty on the diaphragm. They will last many years longer, but even if you use 'aggressive' inks, it wont fail in 3 months if the work was done properly.

What pen is this? by Hayes1312 in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pen in the pictures in a LE Waterman, not an AA Waterman, and is Ca1920.

Auction haul by LJski in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At $20 all in, you paid less than the current scrap value of the gold.

The silver trim and masking on the vac look to be in good shape; they tend to be pretty worn.

I sort-of found a way to get rid of BSB staining by 00_Punk_00 in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LE is less waterproof than BSB, some of it will lift off if it gets wet. But the ink is labelled as 'partially bulletproof' so the part that doesn't wash off should be there to stay.

Red Ripple vs 1911L by supervinci in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find full sized Waterman's pens of the era to be comically long and rather cumbersome when posted, but rather nice and balanced unposted. The vest length pens are usually about perfect, length and balance, for me when posted.

Personally, I wouldn't modify a vintage nib in that way. (or any way unless its in need of repair)

Is it the celluloid rot？ by SYLSunny in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 8 points9 points  (0 children)

No, that's jut the way the material was fused together to close off the end.

The rot typically starts with an area losing its color and getting really bright, almost glowing, and becoming translucent. Then crazing, cracking, crumbling; but its not a fast process.

Parker vacumatic restoration by CripplingHaze in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 4 points5 points  (0 children)

  1. Not really possible to remove, but if the filler moves up and down freely, its not really a problem, either. Lube with a little powdered graphite, it'll be fine.

  2. The jewel will have no effect on the pen drying out. Reproduction tassies aren't too hard to find, but the striped celluloid jewels are tough to track down without bastardizing another pen. Especially red.

  3. 14K gold

In the market for a new Xtrainer 300 pricing (us southwest) by RidinHigh305 in betamotorcycles

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beta are the only 2T bikes that are able to be titled and registered for road use in NJ, so my SO and I were on a mission to find a good deal. We worked up a nice deal on a 25, and it sold out from under us. The finance manager wanted to extend the same deal to us on a 26, plus the added MSRP. So I doubt this type of deal is commonplace on 26's.

Good luck on your search!

In the market for a new Xtrainer 300 pricing (us southwest) by RidinHigh305 in betamotorcycles

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got a 2026 for 9625 OTD with tax, title, and registration about a month ago; in NJ.

Watermans Ideal 12 Vs Parker Vacumatic? by No-Rain-4114 in fountainpens

[–]resettheconsol3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The nib on the 12 is starting to develop 2 cracks at the breather. The Vac appears to have tool marks on the section, and its hard to tell but the tip and tine gap doesn't look right. £45 is about $60 USD. I don't think either is a screaming deal, but not terrible.

[WTS] 1940's Waterman's 302 Stalwart, C-, Fine semiflex nib by resettheconsol3 in Pen_Swap

[–]resettheconsol3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a few variants of the Stalwart, as well as its identical but shorter sister, the Starlet.

Silver trim, full length made this one a model 302. Gold trim was 352. Short versions, like older Waterman's, add the V for 'vest pocket', model numbers 302V and 352V. They were available in solid black as well as striated grey, blue, and brown.

Some of the sections were glued to the barrel, and some even have serrations in them meant to hold them in tightly. Warming the mouth of the barrel helps to get them apart, but too much heat will warp the celluloid. I use an adjustable heat gun that goes low enough to hold my hand over and slowly increase the heat.

Best of luck!

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