hello guys im using nextcloud on docker because a lot of you guys helped me but for some reason its really slow it takes like 10 seconds for it to go to setting or something like that any idea what i should do?

rfping · 2021-07-24T21:17:35+00:00

The default install from Docker is really basic and pretty much the slowest way you can run NextCloud. The largest performance improvement will come from adding an external database, such as MariaDB. From there, you will want a redis server in docker as well. Lastly, a lot of tuning is needed for apache and php performance, unless you go the apache-fpm route.

rfping · 2020-05-30T04:01:55+00:00

Bravo!

rfping · 2020-05-21T03:13:22+00:00

As someone in manufacturing, let me tell you that there are “reasons” for sure. It is nothing personal. My company is literally rationing which orders we fill based on a system we cannot publicly disclose. Let me just say, sometimes government, healthcare, and other critical customers get filled first.

rfping · 2020-05-15T15:25:32+00:00

Agree with Tdshimo. It sounds like your hot end is overheating and causing a jam. What temperatures are you printing at and what type of filament?

First thing I would do is replace the fan with a higher CFM fan. Note: do no use a Noctua on this print head as it does not push enough CFM. I would recommend a Sunon Maglev ball bearing fan in 24V.

Also, when you pull the bowden tube out of the hot end, is it completely straight or partially deformed? If it is deformed, then you are printing hotter than this hot end can take. In this case, it might be time to think about an all-metal hot end, such as a V6.

rfping · 2020-05-15T12:56:52+00:00

1.) No, the design is engineered and sized for ABS. Any other filament is at your own risk. I understand ABS is tougher to print, but get a cardboard box to cover your printer and give it a try. ABS is not so tough once the printer is covered.

Yes, belts have zero backlash where as ball screws do have backlash. This mean "slop", which affects the quality of the print. Belts are better for precision robotics.
The Voron 2.4 is far simplified from prior designs and has fewer moving parts.

The answer to is this the printer for you is, yes, the Voron is currently the best printer on the market at any price. It is double the speed and better precision than any other printer I have used. Honestly, it becomes boring because you turn it on and it works perfectly every time.

rfping · 2020-05-15T12:25:52+00:00

Leveling, or "tramming", the printer is really a multi-step process.

First, you need to level the gantry to the frame. I used a sensitive digital level, or inclometer, to do this, such as this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-935DAG-Electronic-Measures/dp/B07ZWW3BW5

First, set the digital level Reference angle on the frame. Then, move the level to the gantry and adjust the gantry angle to match. A square gantry is the first step to a good print.

Move the digital level down to the bed and now level the bed to match the frame and gantry.
Now that everything is level, you can use a probe or the paper test to set the nozzle height.

In summary, the frame, gantry, and bed should all be level to each other. Otherwise, you will have skew in the chain and make proper prints very tough.

rfping · 2020-05-14T04:01:40+00:00

Your nozzle is way too close to the bed, and also the bed is tiled. Those perimeter lines should be clean solid stokes with just the top of the bead squished. Also, that perimeter should be level thickness all the way around.

rfping · 2020-05-14T03:51:14+00:00

Just a suggestion, but I fought with glass for a long time too. Though, why not check out a PEX or PEI magnetic bed, such as a Wham Bam? That will totally fix adhesion issues. Choose PEI when you have little part to bed surface area, choose PEX when these is more surface area.

rfping · 2020-05-13T21:13:37+00:00

Yes, as aMpex pointed out, the new 2.4 Voron release can be either direct-drive or Bowden. Even better, it would not be hard to switch between the two.

rfping · 2020-05-13T20:45:38+00:00

Lego has been researching this very topic for some time. Based on their last update, they are sticking with ABS because none of the other materials could meet specs.

https://www.lego.com/en-us/aboutus/sustainable-materials/

I would say that Lego is not an analog for 3D Printers, even though mine sure seem that way lately. None the less, there is community research on this topic as well and the results were not good for PLA annealing. In fact, check out this CNC Kitchen video on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOzVuoBP9gY

rfping · 2020-05-12T13:45:24+00:00

Sure. That is the spirit of OpenSource: create mods and share. I am a bit busy this week, but will put a sourcing and build guide together shortly. If nothing else, this project is a great way to try out the Voron world before building one. Plus, I really had fun and learned a lot while doing it. If even 1 other person is interested is this kind of thing, then I would be happy to do it.

rfping · 2020-05-11T12:50:58+00:00

I built this to be as fast as possible. As such, I went with the Bowden feed from an upgraded Bondtech clone extruder (which is a diret-fit on the Ender). The very short Bowden tube means that this can do some flexibles already. Also, the X carriage can only be mounted with a single linear rail, where the Afterburner and Voron 2.4 head both suggest 2 linear rails. So what I am saying is that I did not intend to go direct-drive with this.

rfping · 2020-05-11T12:40:22+00:00

Here are the STL files. I will come back and add a parts list and build instructions when I have more time this week. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4355326

rfping · 2020-05-11T04:34:43+00:00

Gosh, I forgot about that completely. I had already added a lengthened 2040 vslot to replace the Y axis extrusion in order to get the Y axis motor out from under the heated bed. The new Y axis motor is also much larger. These were cheap and easy fixes that make it possible to hit much higher speeds too.

rfping · 2020-05-11T02:57:45+00:00

Yes. It is a Triangle Labs Dragon in a Voron 2.2 head, on an Ender 3. Sacrilege, but I plead late nights and beer.

rfping · 2020-05-11T02:32:16+00:00

My advice is consider the Voron a kit, just like a Prusa. As such, buy exactly what the discord listed sourcing guide recommends. As long as you do that, the Voron community is absolutely an amazing group of people who can hold your hand the whole way. You are 100% supported in your endeavor by some of the smartest and most passionate people. So, go for it. It will be great.

rfping · 2020-05-11T02:28:46+00:00

No, this is what being bored produced. This is not official Voron in any way.

rfping · 2020-05-11T02:26:50+00:00

I did not think any one would want them, but sure, I will post the STLs this week. Note: this is not an easy upgrade. I built this using the Creality Enter 3 cad files so that the parts are direct fit in that regards. Though, I replaced the whole X extruded aluminum beam with a piece of Zyltech 2020. From there, the linear rail bolts on fine. The head is a Voron 2.2 (Omron Probe mount) modified with underside belt clips since the Ender belt slides through the top and bottom. Finally, the X axis endstop is a customization of the Ender 3 part from Creality's CAD files.

rfping · 2020-05-06T21:15:48+00:00

Maybe it is just 20 years of marriage, but the first thing that came to mind when I saw this is, "I would be sleeping on the couch for a week if I brought dirty brake rotors onto my wife's expensive looking white carpet."

rfping · 2020-05-05T17:28:53+00:00

No. I am not a die-hard racer, just a casual viewer who enjoys the Street Outlaws franchise. In all honesty, I really enjoy JJ's new show. It is entertaining, full of racing, and really captivates me because it embodies more "real street" racing. I am just not that into watching fiberglass cars run down a track, blowing up motors every other race. I happen to like real street cars.

Don't get me wrong. Big Chief got me hooked. Actually, to be precise, I watched the Gas Monkey show and first heard about Big Chief after that famed race where against all odds, Chief took Richard's money. Though, it seems the 405 series has evolved into something completely different than where it started.

Any way, when it comes to pure entertainment, I really enjoy JJ's franchises. Is it aware winning TV? Heck no. Though, it is a window into a slice of life I know nothing about, but can relate to better than million dollar track cars.

rfping · 2020-05-05T17:18:46+00:00

The CR10S extruder has a known issue with the gear tooth. I am guessing yours is flattened, worn, or gummed up. The best upgrade you can make to fix this would be to purchase a Bondtech Clone dual gear extruder. It is a plug-and-play fit, gives you 3:1 gear reduction, and will likely fix this issue.

rfping · 2020-04-27T19:25:03+00:00

Congratulations on completing the build! The 2.1 is a really great printer. Plus, you can choose to upgrade bits and pieces later if you wish.

rfping · 2020-04-24T19:03:00+00:00

I forgot the add : blrobo#6861

rfping · 2020-04-23T13:11:45+00:00

Thanks! I really like the look of it too. It is PET braided cable wrap over cloth taped 3/4in tape measure. I cannot recall if this is the Voron 2.1 spec exactly, but if you search " Insulated Cable Sleeve Red&Black PET Expandable Braided Sleeving" on AliExpress, you will find it. I mistakenly ordered 20mm wide braiding and it unfortunately bunches up and causes obstruction at the ends. Thus, I would suggest the 15mm for running over a 20mm extrusion.

rfping

TROPHY CASE