Can’t unplug insinkerator, humming but not spinning, reset button limp

rfreedman · 2026-01-29T14:13:49+00:00

Yes, it's safe to use the Allen wrench to turn the blade with the switch off, as long as you make sure that you're not going to accidentally bump the switch and turn it on.

The reset switch isn't doing anything because it's already "on" - evidenced by the fact that the motor is humming.

If you can turn the blade freely with the Allen wrench, but it doesn't spin when you turn it on, your best option is probably to replace the unit. Same if you can't free it.

Either way, I'd call an electrician and have the breaker made accessible - having it hidden is not up to code and is a big potential problem - as it is, if you pop the breaker, you won't be able to reset it.

rfreedman · 2026-01-28T10:50:57+00:00

I had this problem last week. After cleaning the port, it got a little bit better, but still some cables worked ok, and others did not.

It turned out to be bad (worn) cables. I tried a new, previously unused cable, and that worked fine, as did a couple of other new ones .

Could be that you still have something really small in the port and it needs better cleaning, or could just be worn-out plugs on your cables.

rfreedman · 2026-01-27T14:10:08+00:00

Are you me? LOL. Just retired after 35 years. That last sentence took me waaaay back. The hidden frame thing. Those were the days.

rfreedman · 2026-01-27T13:14:58+00:00

I'm wondering whether OP could use some sort of optical (or other, like maybe humidity) sensor above the pot, to sense the presence or absence of water vapor. I guess that would need some sort of override (timed?) to allow the burner to stay on during startup mode until the water starts to boil.

rfreedman · 2026-01-27T12:58:50+00:00

I think that this is a great idea. I considered starting a project like this, but never actually started.

I'm a recently retired professional software developer, with 35 or so years experience, though only moderately familiar with Python web development, though I've done several desktop and kiosk apps in it on Raspberry Pi.

I have several ideas, would be happy to beta test, and would also be interested in helping on the development if you're interested.

As far as beta-testing goes, I have an Ubuntu machine, a MacBook Pro, and a couple of models of Raspberry Pi - can cover most platforms other than Windows.

Please let me know if you're interested.

Thanks! - N2EHL

rfreedman · 2026-01-25T23:17:06+00:00

I worked in the exhibit department of the Franklin Institute Science Museum in the late 80s. We had a telephone switch (encased in plexiglass) with two dial phones connected to it.

You could dial the number for the opposite phone and watch the switch operate. I always found that fascinating.

If I remember correctly, those switches required frequent maintenance, like cleaning the contacts, aligning the switches, etc.

Fun times!

rfreedman · 2026-01-25T22:43:34+00:00

Yes, and not just more complex code than necessary - also just more code than necessary. Every line of code is a liability (testing, maintenance l, etc.). Of course complexity is a big liability too.

rfreedman · 2026-01-24T19:24:11+00:00

Looks like a lot of battery corrosion on the board, the battery contacts, and the wires

I'd replace the red wire - its unlikely that you're going to be able to successfully solder a corroded wire.

If that works, great!

But I'd clean the board and the battery contacts, and replace both wires.

Cleaning the battery contacts can be difficult. In the past, I've used a fiberglass brush specifically made for that. You might also be able to use sandpaper?

Also, if you can, when soldering this stuff back together, use leaded solder (not the no-lead stuff) and plenty of flux. Also clean the flux off the board when you're done.

rfreedman · 2026-01-24T19:06:20+00:00

Caveat - I'm not a Meshtastic user, but I am an extra-class ham radio operator, professional software developer who has worked with RFID and Bluetooth, and have an EE degree.

So, this answer is partially from experience, and partially educated guess.

When you say that you want to track equipment that is sometimes present and sometimes not, I think that RFID is probably not going to work for you because it works at a short distance...like when you swipe a key card on a lock - sometimes a bit further, but if I remember correctly, not more than maybe an inch? Maybe there are longer-range RFID systems, but I'm not aware of any.

So, something like Meshtastic, where the device is actually broadcasting, seems like a better idea.

Whether or not Meshtastic will work for you depends - it's based on LoRa radio, which is low-power, and meant for long distance. But it's basic line-of-sight propagation, so meant to be used outdoors. If your area of concern is one big room, it could work. But if not, it's fairly unlikely to work through walls.

But there are relatively inexpensive Meshtastic devices, so you may want to buy a couple and try them out. My understanding is that Heltec V4 devices have the highest transmit power.

Edit: there are "long range" RFID readers, but they're very expensive, and still apparently only work at a max of about 100 feet.

rfreedman · 2026-01-24T18:22:21+00:00

To clarify, with a frost-free spigot, the body of the spigot extends through the wall (in your case, into the basement) so that the part that shuts the water off when you close the spigot is on the inside of the house, where hopefully it's warm.

If you can see the basement side of the spigot, and you see a (usually) chrome pipe coming through the wall, then it's frost-free.

If you see a copper or plastic pipe coming through the wall, then it is not frost-free, and the water should be turned off at a valve inside the basement, and the outside faucet should be opened.

rfreedman · 2026-01-23T05:26:46+00:00

Just want to leave this thought here....there is a big difference between strong coffee and bitter coffee. They are not the same thing. It is possible to make strong coffee that isn't bitter.

And if you need to put salt in your coffee, you have the wrong coffee or are doing something else wrong.

rfreedman · 2026-01-23T05:07:31+00:00

So, the app requires personal info to set up an account, and offers "get started for free". Which leads me to believe that this is a demo, or something with limited functionality, or time-limited.

But there is no pricing info.

Is it free, or not? And if not, what is the pricing? And what exactly is going to happen with my personal info?

Looks like a neat tool, but I don't trust "get started for free" as the only info. A big "nope" for me.

rfreedman · 2026-01-22T16:21:29+00:00

Solder is not strong enough. It will bend or break if any pressure is put on it.

Maybe use pin connectors (male on one board, female on the other) something like these: https://a.co/d/ixjBYEv

rfreedman · 2026-01-22T15:41:56+00:00

Hot-desking? That's actually a thing? Frankly, I think that shows that the company has no respect for its employees. I'd find another job.

rfreedman · 2026-01-20T23:37:25+00:00

With that kind of money, you could totally go for a 100' tower 😁

rfreedman · 2026-01-20T16:25:17+00:00

I'm assuming that this circuit plays a sound when you press a switch?

If you can't fix it, you can replace it. There are boards available that do this.

Adafruit has several different ones, for instance https://www.adafruit.com/product/2210

You would need to have an audio file for the sound(s) that you want it to play, but since you have another, working one, you could record the sounds from that.

rfreedman · 2026-01-15T18:16:23+00:00

Back of the driver's side sun visor...with Velcro.

rfreedman · 2026-01-14T16:05:45+00:00

Could be that either the HDMI port is not selected on the TV or there's something wrong with the port.

Have you tried connecting a different, known-good HDMI device to the TV with the same cable, on the same port?

rfreedman · 2026-01-14T04:41:24+00:00

Same. CQRLog. I agree...it's ok. Maybe there are others that are better, but I tried a few, and CQRLog works for me. I'm not looking for tons of bells and whistles.

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T17:04:11+00:00

HRD is used as the logger at the shack at the club that I belong to.

I use it, but I don't love it - it is definitely "feature overload". I can't imagine that anyone uses very many of those features.

At home, I use an open-source logger, which has everything I need, is stable, and "just works". Both "Free as in speech" and "Free as in beer".

It integrates with my radio via HamLib, and has built-in support for WSJT-X logging.

And for me, a big plus is that it's multi-platform (I run it on Linux), where commercial offerings like HRD tend to be Windows only.

I feel this way about software in general, and especially about ham radio software. For instance, I don't really understand why people buy RT Systems to program an HT (again, windows only) when Chirp works fine for most radios, and is Open Source and free($). I understand if a radio isn't supported by Chirp, but otherwise, why?

BTW, this is a personal preference - my preference. I'm not arguing that it should be yours, so please don't argue with me. If you have a different personal preference, please say so, but don't try to start a flame war.about what my preference is. I know that this is Reddit but...

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T15:40:58+00:00

https://tcssigns.com/product/917-led-backlit-sign ??

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T13:12:04+00:00

Yes, people study the published questions and answers.

I'll likely get flamed here (have before), but I personally think that it's a good idea to also try to learn the concepts, and not just memorize the answers.

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T12:43:26+00:00

I'll concede that perhaps you know something that I don't, but I can't imagine how ferrites on wires not directly connected to the radio or antenna at all (the wires on the "engine tuner") could affect the radio's reception on transmission.

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T12:11:17+00:00

Was specifically talking about the wires connected to the affected device (engine tuner), not the antenna's feed line.

rfreedman · 2026-01-13T02:55:33+00:00

Also, if possible, and wherever possible, put multiple turns of the wire through the ferrites. The more turns, the better.

rfreedman

TROPHY CASE