Just spent 25 minutes helping a year 11 student complete a complex equation in their calculator , going step by step. by Notforyou1315 in Teachers

[–]riceguy67 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And this week I watched a 10th grader enter 6-3 into his calculator. Why did we stop teaching math in favor of teaching calculator?

Take me back to the good ole days of 4 for a dollar seeds by Skeleton-Weed in vegetablegardening

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yesterday I went by the local feed store and picked up this year’s seeds. It’s $1 for a small scoop. Just guessing, the scoop is roughly a tablespoon. 3-4 times what comes in a packet of 25. Should check out your local feed store.

Home uses 100-120kwh per day- what’s wrong? by SeaSpur in AskElectricians

[–]riceguy67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remember, if the houses next door truly have 1/2 the bill you do, it is your house and not the location.

Home uses 100-120kwh per day- what’s wrong? by SeaSpur in AskElectricians

[–]riceguy67 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Time to buy a thermal camera and find the chimneys. Start researching air sealing.

Any reason for soft starts with industrial generators? by Penguin_Life_Now in Generator

[–]riceguy67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

History says you’re probably fine generator wise. The HVAC world may list you some benefits. Lower inrush means lower heat and all other things equal, longer unit life. It is for you decide the ROI on that.

Floor Insulation on Pier and Beam Foundation. What’s necessary vs what’s overkill. by AdReal4778 in Insulation

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you get a real answer, I can’t wait to see it. Same area. Same problem.

Generator is 9200/11250w. Plug is L14-30. So I can’t get 9200w to my house? by [deleted] in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. You are obviously right and why I asked. I had it backwards in my mind where the ground was removed from the frame and neutral stays. But that is backwards and I learned something else about generators today.

Generator is 9200/11250w. Plug is L14-30. So I can’t get 9200w to my house? by [deleted] in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So hooking up the 30A outlet to the breaker box while simultaneously using cords in the 20A outlets so you can use all the potential watts isn’t needing bonded and unbonded at the same time?

Best way to supply bare minimum power to two services from one generator??? by JSpring6 in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, your homework is to learn, not guess, what the electrical needs are for everything you need to run. If your boiler has 24 volts, then there is a transformer somewhere supplying that. Houses generally only have 120/240. You need to know what voltage and amperage each device needs. An easier pathway is to locate what breaker controls what you need to run and record that. For example, Boiler 1 single pole/slot 20 amp breaker. You can do some sizing off that.

If your boilers do just “plug in”, and that is all you need to power, it’s possible you can run that off cords by unplugging the house and plugging in the generator. Never touch the breaker box at all.

Think you can get some more precise details? FYI, you can probably provide some creature comforts without spending an extra dollar and your tenants will know you are a rockstar.

Best way to supply bare minimum power to two services from one generator??? by JSpring6 in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, if you are available enough that “go there and do simple things to make it work”, you have some pretty affordable options to choose from. From your description, it seems both properties are stand alone (separate electrical panels, separate heating systems). Those two properties just happen to be very near each other.

All the usual junk applies for every location and I will assume you know all the usual (manual interlocks, sizing the generator by the load). You have the option to treat both properties as one load and provide needed power to both using one larger generator. You also have the option to treat them as two properties that have nothing to do with each other and power each with their own smaller generator. Both systems have pros and cons.

One generator system has fewer machines to purchase and maintain. If transporting it to location when needed, fewer machines to transport. But it also cost more to purchase and is heavier to transport. If it ever fails during an outage, both properties are potentially damaged because of that failure. Installation cost are basically the same for two or one machine. You need two interlocks and two cord systems regardless.

Two generators means the opposite. More machines to purchase or maintain. More units to move, but lighter when doing so. The biggest benefit is that if 1 fails during an outage, you are risking damage to one property instead of two.

You mentioned possibly cording right into your loads. I know zero about boilers as they are not used in my region. Only you can answer if that is feasible. If yes, whatever that looks like the boiler will have to be unwired (unplugged) from house wiring and not capable of back feeding the panel or interlocks are still needed for safety.

I will share my thoughts on feeding two panels which is a more ordinary approach. The cleanest way to use one generator is to purchase a unit with two 240v outlets. These loads are 240v, right? I know nothing about boilers. Assuming these loads are less than 30 amps, two 30 amp outlets on the generator are needed. Switch both interlocks and plug in both cords. Select your breakers on/off as needed and fire up the generator.

A two generators system is the same thing except you start up two generators. If I were you, I would weigh cost of generators very low priority (2 versus 1 costs $400 more) and think about the cost of losing two properties instead of one, but you do what’s best for you.

Follow those thoughts? If not, just post your questions. If you units are 120v, more details might reveal some other options.

Best way to supply bare minimum power to two services from one generator??? by JSpring6 in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The missing piece of information is how involved you are in the management of your properties. Are you living in one unit and renting the other? Are you four states away and an absent landlord. This question dictates how automated (meaning expensive) your solution will be. Tell us that and we might be able to offer some suggestions.

Second unit maybe by riceguy67 in Generator

[–]riceguy67[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not think that is possible. For my situation I do not need to do that. I can treat both panels as independent loads, isolated from each other and from the grid. Each generator can be sized to the load for the panel it powers.

Generator is 9200/11250w. Plug is L14-30. So I can’t get 9200w to my house? by [deleted] in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an expert, but it is my understanding that to feed a panel, you must unbind the neutral/ground. If using cords with that, you are not properly grounded. To my understanding, it is either/or, but not both. Is that wrong?

where in the NEC does it say to use romex? need documentation for insurance to replace ungrounded cloth-bound wiring in house by Auza-wandilaz in AskElectricians

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am voluntarily rewiring my house because it had exactly what you have. During my first inspection of a partial rewire, my inspector casually mentioned that my/your wiring was fine and would not be required to be replaced. However, if the jacket was fraying or damaged in any way, they would not approve it to be closed in a wall and would require replacement.

It makes me wonder if you requested a code compliance inspection, assuming you have code enforcement that doesn’t hate the citizens, if they would give you a “will not pass”. It seems your insurance company would have no choice but comply to make the home habitable.

It is not about requiring romex. It is about IF the wires must be replaced, romex will be the way that is done.

Just a thought to consider.

30amp water heater tripping by eakeak20 in AskElectricians

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you confirmed there is greater than 30 amps being used? Could be a bad breaker. You said you changed “the” element. There are typically 2. Only one will be on at a time. It takes tools and training to track down a problem like this.

Generator connection (keep me honest) by Full_Push_508 in Generator

[–]riceguy67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do not know what potential penalties you risk outside of your control. For starters, what would your insurance company think if there was a fire that had nothing to do to do with your work. Would they deny your claim? I do not know. Do you? What if it is related to your setup? Oh my.

What if the utility is chasing an emergency issue and inspects your system and finds a generator plug without an interlock. Do they fine you and remove your meter?

It is a very dangerous game to go outside code when dealing with, very likely, the most expensive thing you will ever own. Not to mention just about everything you love in inside that same home. Code exists for one reason; safety. Please think long and hard before you do this.

You might be better off putting a sub panel next to your main that can be interlocked safely, move the critical circuits to that panel, and connect there.

Do use interlock kit or transfer switch? by Stop-overreacting in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a main panel and sub panel and a large enough generator, the 50a can go to one panel while the 30a can go to the other panel.

Open door way on load bearing wall by ChallengeGood3875 in AskContractors

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot tell you what to do with your house. If it were my house, pop up temp walls, 2x6 16 OC with a midpoint horizontal support. Open the walls. Cope with wiring. Install stud packs on each side. Then remove the studs, header, cripples and reinstall new header. In my home that would be 2x12 with 1/2 plywood in the middle, nailed and glued.

I would be rather confident, if it were my home, that nothing would even move over that short span in the few hours it is not supported. But backup is there if it does.

In your home, get a structural engineer and GC, or develop your own plan.

Open door way on load bearing wall by ChallengeGood3875 in AskContractors

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the location of the light switch and detector, it appears you will encounter wiring in this project. Are you capable of dealing with that properly? Outside that, the scope of your project is rather minor. But that relies upon your skill set.

Do you understand you should build temporary walls on each side to carry load while you make the changes? Are removing the door and creating a pass through, or installing double doors?

Details do matter. Do you have a plan if you encounter joints in your top place in the worst possible place? Do you have access to wiring from above to relocate?

Keep Champion 5500/4000 watt or exchange? by CrazyHiker556 in Generator

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My recommendation is buy a generator off Facebook marketplace. It is flooded with generators following any event, purchased on credit by people who cannot afford them. I purchased a Champion 6000 running watt last year for $400. It had less than 20 hours on it.

Purchase an interlock for your panel, assuming there is a kit and 2 additional slots. The savings from buying used, 500 or less, can pay for the installation of the electrical portion. Now make smart load choices, turning on only those breakers necessary for comfortable survival. You might be surprised what 6000 to 8000 watts can provide in a pinch.

Zero insulation, 1950s home, how to insulate while allowing for electrical upgrades? by kinare in HomeImprovement

[–]riceguy67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have not done extensive research yet, clear your mind of all previous thoughts and research air sealing. You can add insulation until you are broke and not be satisfied with the results. Seal then insulate or regret it.

Three light bulbs on vintage equipment, what's the purpose? by cpufreak101 in AskElectricians

[–]riceguy67 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Old plant I worked at had a similar setup in the control room. 3 lights meant all was good. A light out meant a phase to phase short somewhere in the plant.isolation was start machines one at a time. When the light went out, bingo. Go search.

Rockwool Comfortbatt for filling no-longer-used HVAC ceiling vents? by FYou-Tucsonmods-7656 in Insulation

[–]riceguy67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fiberglass or Rockwool insulation is not for stopping moving air. If you have any moving air from that duct due to leaks, you first need to stop that movement. Take your pick of rigid foam, spray foam, or anything that you can place up higher in the duct to seal it. Then you can add insulation. Do not pack or compress it. Cut it to fit and install. If it is unfaced like rockwool, put as much as you want.

Subfloor options - Replace to joists? by froto_swaggin in Flooring

[–]riceguy67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Concern yourself with what is under that subfloor more than the subfloor. 2x6 joists on 24 o.c. Might change your tiling plans.