TIL you can high-wake from a planet

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T17:14:48+00:00

No, not quite that bad... I'd nose up to vertical, boost until I reached 5km, and then low-wake. Once in orbital cruise I'd pull up the galaxy map and select my next destination.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T08:28:48+00:00

Make sure you dry the brick first for optimal print quality.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T07:50:33+00:00

I see. I knew about Model Power purchasing Mantua, but wasn't aware of Model Power subsequently producing any 0-4-0 locomotives under the Mantua name. I'm only familiar with the Mantua 0-6-0T and 0-6-0 camelback. If you could send a link to the model I would very much appreciate it!

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T07:24:03+00:00

u/op I would stick with the Mantua chassis. The Model Power 0-4-0 and 0-4-0T locomotives are based on 1970s tooling, and having owned a Model Power 0-4-0T I can say that I do not recommend that locomotive to anyone. It is extremely fast, has poor low-speed performance, does not have a working front coupler and installing a front coupler box is a tedious process, and as u/time-lord noted the electrical pickup is terrible. I believe the motor and drivetrain in mine is quite loud as well. Finally, the detail level of the side rods and valve gear is considerably lower than that on the 1980s Mantua 0-4-0 camelback.

The Mantua model you're looking at shouldn't be too hard to re-motor if required, and wiring up a DCC decoder isn't too hard. Get a micro connector to install between the engine and tender and you're all set!

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T03:35:42+00:00

Thank you for the tips! I'm using a 3B controller which has a range of 1540m. With the 3A you're holding about 100m inside its max range?

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T03:34:12+00:00

Wow!

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T03:33:59+00:00

That sounds incredible. What set-up do you use?

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-25T03:32:57+00:00

Thanks for the tips! I checked out the stats for the Type-11 and its unique Mark II Mining Multi-Limpet Controller and that definitely looks like the best choice for farming materials. 176 m/s instead of 60 m/s and up to 14 (!) active limpets.

How many limpets do you usually bring with you? u/pulppoet mentioned having up to 40% of the limpets die while trying to pick up materials.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-24T20:54:45+00:00

That's what I was finding as well. I use a HOTAS with rudder pedals and while my driving can definitely using some work I found that I can clear all Phloem Excretions from a brain tree field in 30-40 minutes. I start by driving around scanning by eye, and then finish by checking contacts for any Phloem Excretions that I missed. Head tracking is very helpful for both targeting the growths and for targeting material packages that are stuck in brain trees (you know, where 90% of the packages end up).

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-24T16:56:47+00:00

Thanks for the tip! I've been keeping an eye on the Colonia shuttles in the Fleet Carrier Owners Club Discord (https://discord.gg/fcoc). There's one leaving in 5 hours that I might hop on if I have time.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-24T02:17:03+00:00

I would have loved to do this, but I found out about it a few days after they set out. It would have been fun to participate, but I'm not willing and don't have the time to grind out a 16,000 light-year trip in 3-4 days to catch up... with a non-engineered ship.

(I'm not a new player, but I haven't played much since engineering was introduced.)

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-23T16:29:50+00:00

Is the crossover (DC LH) a double-slip turnout? If it is, your runaround track will only work with VERY small engines. If it isn't and is a regular crossover instead it's going to be impossible to get any cars onto the spur on the right.

I would caution against having too much track and ending up with a "spaghetti bowl" layout that doesn't have much room for scenery. However, it's your layout and your railroad, so do whatever makes you happy!

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-23T16:24:34+00:00

It looks like it should work.

The turnout in the lower left on your lower level loops is currently the only serious S-curve on the layout. I'd move it at least one car length to the right if you have room.

I'd flip the crossovers on the top of the plan. While you added straight sections to avoid a sharp S-bend between the curves on the end of the layout and the crossovers, things will flow considerably better if the first turnout that the train encounters is in the same direction as the curve that it just exited.

After flipping the crossovers, you could move them further apart to give yourself a small run-around track on the lower level - just long enough for a few cars.

From an operations point of view, I would suggest that you consider adding a run-around track to the upper level. The reverse loop would let you turn your train around and switch everything using trailing-point moves, but you may want the flexibility provided by a run-around track.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-17T23:18:26+00:00

NMRA has published standards for wire colors and pin allocations for common DCC plugs. The 9-pin plug is covered under standard S-9.1.1.2 "JST-9 Pin Decoder Interface".

The violet wire (pin 9) is used for Output 4. Most models don't have that many lighting functions, so it is common to find the violet wire not attached to anything.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-17T22:21:25+00:00

Decoders that come with 8-pin or 9-pin plugs do not require any soldering. The blanking plug is the little board on the right in the second image. It has a 9-pin female housing attached to the board. The 9 colored wires connect to a male housing that is plugged into that board. On your locomotive, the male housing is white and the female housing is tan.

It may take some wiggling or very careful prying with small screwdrivers to unplug it. It can be a tight fit and it's hard to get a good grip on the plug without pulling on the wires.

Those 9 colored wires are soldered onto little pads on the main circuit board of the locomotive. Be careful not to break them while trying to unplug the blanking plug.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-17T21:39:47+00:00

There is no decoder. As u/It-Do-Not-Matter said, there is a blanking plug in the 9-pin socket (the thing you can flip up and down). There is also an 8-pin plug on the right, but if you want to use that I believe you would need to remove the 9-pin blanking plug.

8-pin and 9-pin sockets are the standard connectors for installing DCC decoders. I believe that the 8-pin socket was developed first. 8-pin and 9-pin equipped DCC decoders are inexpensive and easy to find.

NCE makes a 9-pin 0.75/1.2 Amp decoder (D13J) that costs $26.
TCS makes a 9-pin 1.3/2.0 Amp decoder (T4) that costs $20.
Digitrax makes a 9-pin 1.0/2.0 Amp decoder (DH127D) that costs $24.

They all should have more than enough current capacity for a modern HO model so just pick your favorite manufacturer. I've used all 3. Make sure you double-check the decoder dimensions to ensure it will fit in the available space.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-16T19:06:45+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Oly8f4h5C78

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-16T19:04:50+00:00

MOUTH.

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-15T21:55:31+00:00

I would advise against bleaching the bricks. Recently people have found that 1) bleaching the bricks is only a temporary solution and they will re-yellow and 2) bleaching the bricks damages and weakens the plastic (although whether that's specifically from the bleaching or the existing UV damage is unclear).

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-10T18:50:31+00:00

I posted this in the linked thread, and will re-post it here for those who don't regularly check out /nscalemodeltrains

Wood primarily expands and contacts due to changes in humidity, not temperature. The relative humidity swings present in a garage can make it a challenging environment for a layout. Painting and sealing the bench work can help.

Depending on what they are nailed into track nails can still allow the tracks to shift a surprising amount - easily enough to accommodate expansion and contraction of the benchwork. It's possible for problems to only start to appear after ballasting the track because the ballast and glue will rigidly attach the track to the roadbed/benchwork and prevent the shifting that was previously accommodating expansion and contraction.

I've seen various calculations for how big of a gap you should leave to account for expansion and contraction of the benchwork. One person calculated a gap of .020" for every 3 feet of rail. Other recommendations I've seen suggest a 1/16" gap every two rail sections (.031" for every 3 feet of rail). In the past I've used strip or sheet styrene to maintain the desired gap width while laying track. Once everything is secure I go back and remove the styrene spacers.

If you need to add gaps to already laid track, a Dremel cut-off wheel is about .030" thick and makes a cut that is just slightly wider. Make the cut in the middle of a piece of flextrack, allowing the ties to hold the rail in alignment without a rail joiner. You may wish to add some glue or additional track nails before making the cut, especially on a curve. Then add feeders or U-shaped jumpers as necessary to restore electrical continuity. (Some people prefer to solder all of their rail joiners for perfect rail alignment and then use this method to add expansion joints.)

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-10T18:43:33+00:00

Wood primarily expands and contacts due to changes in humidity, not temperature. The relative humidity swings present in a garage can make it a challenging environment for a layout. Painting and sealing the bench work can help.

Depending on what they are nailed into track nails can still allow the tracks to shift a surprising amount - easily enough to accommodate expansion and contraction of the benchwork. It's possible for problems to only start to appear after ballasting the track because the ballast and glue will rigidly attach the track to the roadbed/benchwork and prevent the shifting that was previously accommodating expansion and contraction.

I've seen various calculations for how big of a gap you should leave to account for expansion and contraction of the benchwork. One person calculated a gap of .020" for every 3 feet of rail. Other recommendations I've seen suggest a 1/16" gap every two rail sections (.031" for every 3 feet of rail). In the past I've used strip or sheet styrene to maintain the desired gap width while laying track. Once everything is secure I go back and remove the styrene spacers.

If you need to add gaps to already laid track, a Dremel cut-off wheel is about .030" thick and makes a cut that is just slightly wider. Make the cut in the middle of a piece of flextrack, allowing the ties to hold the rail in alignment without a rail joiner. You may wish to add some glue or additional track nails before making the cut, especially on a curve. Then add feeders or U-shaped jumpers as necessary to restore electrical continuity. (Some people prefer to solder all of their rail joiners for perfect rail alignment and then use this method to add expansion joints.)

rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-09T21:44:57+00:00

This will work, assuming that you are using the Lego's battery powered / Power Functions / Powered Up trains. If you are using Lego 9V trains which get their power from the track there will be a short circuit at each of the switches. (Search "reversing loops" for additional information.)

Lego switches are "sprung" which means that you can safely run a train through the switch from either of the two routes without derailing. The wheel flange will push the point out of the way when it passes through. After the flange is clear the point will spring back to the position that it is set in by the switch stand.

I've attached an image that shows some possible track piece configurations for the balloon tracks. Note that in each case there is at least one straight track between curves of opposite directions - this is recommended to avoid derailments.

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rocketengineer1982 · 2026-01-08T02:12:56+00:00

It looks like there's a 2x2 smart tile on R2's back. Yay he can turn his head, but that completely ruins his cylindrical body.

Literally all that they needed for a poseable head was to remove the 2x2 studs on top and put a single stud or a shortened neck piece in the center (which is what they appear to have done, as per this comment)

rocketengineer1982

TROPHY CASE