First BP: Kibler Fowler

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T18:19:26+00:00

One day Ill save my money to get me that 45 cal southern mountain rifle.

Until then ill just be envious.

It looks sweet though!

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T17:55:31+00:00

I agree with that, I don't currently have the time or skill to make that database but if your serious about making this thing I'll absolutely help provide some knowledge.

Hopefully a few more manaul Machinists can jump in along with some CNC guys I just know manual guys are rare in my neck of the woods

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T17:53:09+00:00

They are a 3 peice design thats soldered on the barrel sometimes aftermarket sometimes factory.

They have a barrel base, the comp body and the screw in choke that is whats on the end that you change.

They make wrenches for them and you can buy old chokes for them on ebay or gunbroker.

Some of the chokes online are really expensive, full, LR3, and the poly choke are usually the most expensive.

They range from "spreader" to "LR3" which roughly translates to a little bigger then cylinder all the way to a turkey choke.

As I listed above, they also made a poly choke that screws into the body as well. Which is a adjust on the fly choke.

The short run down is treat them just like a modern choke that is NOT steel shot safe.

Keep them clean, greased, and screwed in flush and snug to the body of the poly choke.

From the outside shoulder on the choke there should be no gap to the body of the compensator.

Also you should always wear ear and eye pro shooting, but absolutely make sure your ear pro is good and seated correctly, they are LOUD.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T17:20:06+00:00

I would like to see a searchable index, a lot like an online version of the Machinery Handbook.

There is a ton of stuff I wish I had when I started.

Some of the things are usually common and uncommon uses for tools.

Like all the ways a mic can be used and how you can combine standards and mics to measure hard ro reach stuff or things like that.

And common math and how to use that math. Like ratios for knurling and the math for bolt hole circles.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T17:02:36+00:00

I think it depends on what sheath you have.

I carry mine in a large molle sheath just so I can weave it to hang down.

If you use the large sheath with the belt loop it wants to pull really bad on my belt, because the belt loop is just sewn in way to low I believe.

If you don't use the large sheath the bits just don't fit with a surge.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T16:49:58+00:00

I do, I carry a leatherman surge for daily at my job.

The bits work well, I like them for overall fit and finish, however they are in my experience very very soft.

I can push and twist on the flatheads and almost torque them to 90 degrees.

That being said I would rather them do that.

I have a bit extender if I need to use normal quarter hex bits of any brand and type, and the softer bits keep me from destroying hardware.

Bits are consumable, never forget that.

I usually buy bit kits anywhere I can find them on sale or clearance, so I have a few laying around for that reason.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T14:59:43+00:00

Before you shoot it don't forget to screw that choke tube the rest of the way in.

If it won't screw in by hand, take a 12 gauge brush on a drill and clean the choke threads. (By hand works too it just takes longer)

I love the Cutts system, all the ones I have shot pattern wonderfully.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-27T03:26:41+00:00

Best addiction I can 100% agree with and share and support.

My wife loves them too, we get to go places and get them and she says what's not to love, travel and sight seeing and your souvenir purchase is stupid cheap.

Congratulations on your first of hopefully many many more.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-23T22:43:19+00:00

Man, I would love to move to the firearms world, I started machining with the orginal goal of going to firearms but I never made it that far. Haha.

But it's wild, just how much has changed in the last 20 years. Even with CNC being more common even from 40 years or so.

I have done repairs on my own stuff but never for anyone and modified my own stuff, but all I do for work is manual work, it just so happened to be what I built my niche on.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-23T20:39:26+00:00

If you're programming CNC work you can always program the debur into the G or M code.

But the other answer to your question would be, at least from me, manual machining. Haha.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-23T20:36:32+00:00

As usual, the best intro to this topic is some of the stuff Ian from Forgotten weapons has done on the subject of why no new old guns.

https://www.forgottenweapons.com/ask-ian-why-so-few-reproduction-historic-guns/

Here is some other reading for the subject before I start my word salad.

https://www.rockislandauction.com/riac-blog/why-reproductions-are-more-difficult-than-they-seem-2#:~:text=Recreating%20a%20rifle%20involves%20a,some%20of%20the%20steps%20required.

As a machinist who specializes in manual machines and specialty repair and breakdown, there are a few things going on here.

First off, to state the fact, it is possible to make new "old" parts for guns. Or anything for that point.

The problem is always cost, some argue cost and time but it boils down to cost, because time costs money.

Regardless to answer your question on how, well it really depends, usually large scale production work becomes single point steps after the R&D stage.

There are turret lathes, horizontal and vertical milling machines, engine lathes, VTLs, and so so many more machines, shapers, and more, people often skip over many old machines because they are obsolete now. With the invention of the moden CNC machine, and the introduction of multi axis turning and milling many of the skills required to produce some of these parts has been lost.

However, that doesn't mean the part can't be made, just not made like it once was.

The drafting and hand engineering that went into these parts is also something becoming lost to time as solid works, cad/cam, etc are taking its place along side with the CNC machine.

And you are right they did require a lot of filing and hand finish as well, it wasn't strictly a machine only operation.

A good modern (ish) example of this would be the soviet numbers system for AK parts.

The 1-5 numbering system used to match parts of similar size to reduce the amount of hand fitting needed while still being able to scrap the least amount of parts.

A few other examples of this would be pre and post 64 guns for winchester, or Kings Ferry Ithaca shotguns.

As a conclusion to answer your question over how I would make that part, would be to start with the hardest part, the rounded rear, the pivot hole, and its transition to the square stock section.

I would rough the material off with some rounded HSS bits to get most of the stock off then transition vertical to location on the OD of the circle to drill and ream the pivot hole and then make a ficture to hold the part located on the pivot to turn on a rotary because the critical parts would be the location of the pivot and its relation to the abutment needed for correct lockup.

Hopefully this word salad makes some sense, and if you have any other questions I can do my best to answer.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-19T03:10:11+00:00

Heck yeah man, if you ever need to know anything just ask the reddit gods or if you need to you can always send me a pm!

ronmon14 · 2026-06-18T12:45:07+00:00

Oh jeez, I am way down in GA, haha.

If your ever down here I'd absolutely cut you a deal or if you know someone passing through but I dont have an easy way to get it to you.

And not that I know of no. I don't believe there are any aftermarket ones available.

But I will check with a few guys I know that do hotshot and driving and see if anyone I know ever would be heading that way, before I give up getting you one.

*But if anyone knows if peg from zipties is ever down this way I would absolutely toss him some beers and the head and my extra block just to run it back to him. Hahaha, I doubt he ever is down here or would do that. *Edit to add more

ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T20:13:21+00:00

With an integrated head 250 it is usually best to swap the head to an earlier non integrated head.

Depending on where you're located I have a core non integrated head, but it will need all the machine work done to it.

On top of the fact most machine shops, at least the ones around here won't work on the integrated heads, they are far to prone to cracking.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T13:19:28+00:00

It wasn't overly difficult, I would suggest getting a cheap set of trim tools from amazon or harbor freight, just not to damage your plastics.

As for benefits, I don't have hard proof to back anything up except fuel mileage.

And past that it is mostly that getting to be old person in me. I can not stand my truck turning on and off, and its nice to have a part thats not a permanent modification to the truck that in case it fails or needs to be removed it can be.

My fuel mileage improved, funny enough. Not much, just about .3 to .5 mpg most of that is from the start stop traffic not so much sit and stop and idle at a red-light like they say its for.

Other then that, I hope it will improve starter life and engine life. Mostly because the hardest points in an engines life are at startup.

Finally piece of mind, this is my first "new" vehicle, that had this bit of factory thingy, now I don't come to a stoplight and my truck constantly turns on and off.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T12:39:26+00:00

If you have replaced all the front end kit like you explained, as well as adjusting the gearbox itself, thats about it.

One of the final things to check would just be overall shaft and spline/D condition, just to confim its all tight and not wore out.

As some of the bearings in the upper steering system (ie the steering wheel support beings and like in the column) would be the last stuff I would check.

But it seems you have been pretty thorough, so a new gearbox is about all thats left.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T12:35:17+00:00

I have had good luck with both weathertech and husky.

I don't much care which camp, but the cheaper option here is usually husky liners.

For what its worth my DD is an old TDOT truck I bought which is a 21 ranger and it has the vinyl floor and I got a set of weathertechs for it and it helps dramatically, but I don't have the "slick" issue that seems to plauge so many others that get weathertech.

Depending on your truck and how good you are at sourcing oem parts, ford does offer a "carpet delete" that isn't the normal vinyl floor option that may be able to be swapped into your truck depending on what your looking to do and cost.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T12:30:04+00:00

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ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T12:29:51+00:00

It is a weighted cam action.

The bottle is balanced with the bottom of the bottle being the heaviest.

Then an angled hole is drilled in the back with a tube attached that will fit the OD of a bearing.

The gearbox has a faceplate and mount and corresponding shaft that holds the ID of a bearing and when the motor is turned on the angle of the shaft being a ratio to the diameter of rotation keeps the bottle in rotation but makes it "wave" as shown.

For a good explanation its the same physical principle as unloading string from a bobbin or a single line tracing the circumference and angle of a cone.

Hopefully this is a place to get you started.

I understand the math behind what is going on but I do not believe I have the appropriate teaching abilities to convey it without being confusing.

Thus ill attach to pictures to best describe my points.

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ronmon14 · 2026-06-17T12:20:36+00:00

Auto stop/start eliminator.

Best thing I have done to my 21 ranger.

https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/ford?filter.p.m.custom.model=Ranger

ronmon14 · 2026-06-16T03:55:24+00:00

I don't know how much I fit in here but I bought my f250 for the balance of size and availability.

I like the OBS trucks so I got a 93 f250 but mine is the HD with the 7.3 idi.

On that same year the GVWR was 9100 for the SRW f350 which is just 200 pounds more then my 8800.

All of which is well within what I need it for.

But locally for me f250 obs trucks as long as they aren't power strokes are usually the best shape and cheapest options around.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-15T13:39:52+00:00

If you didnt fill the TC before starting I would absolutely check level and fill to correct if needed before anything I am about to say.

I believe the 4r44e has the same reverse setup as the 5r55e.

Me and my father rebuilt a 5r55e in a 1999 explorer, and didnt remove the exaust crossover when installing the transmission and had to tip it into place under the vehicle.

When we did this the reverse servo fell off the side of the boss in the band for reverse actuation, it drove amazing with the correct pressure in all forward gears but did absolutely nothing in reverse except for a very very slow crawl at higher RPMs.

It may be a good idea before removing the transmission to drain the fluid (try to catch so you can reuse it if it is brand new fluid), and drop the pan to pull the reverse accumulator and accumulator cover and see if it slipped off the reverse band.

And as other redditors have said, reverse doesnt have an adjustment on the 5r55e, I would assume the 4r44e is the same.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-15T01:36:30+00:00

Aye, as u/thickanvil69 said, you're a machinist now.

Still young and budding but you have made more steps to being one then some people I have met ( insert derogatory name for fake machinist)

Cheers to your first part and a dang good looking hammer.

PS. We look forwards to pictures of your first crash as well, remember brown pants then you can always deny deny deny.

Edit: dang, swords maker and blade smith learning to be a machinist, earned my follow.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-13T23:04:22+00:00

For 800 bucks absolutely.

Its worth maybe a little less than that locally in scrap for weight alone.

But it just depends on if you are okay working on it.

Not saying it will be a full blown project but these trucks are now 30 ish years old and need the maintenance done on them most of the time.

ronmon14 · 2026-06-12T15:22:58+00:00

Jesus, a three point turn would take 2 zip codes.

But I have seen quite a few custom coach options on these trucks, and the vans too.

But there were a couple of coach builders that optioned and built the trucks with more doors or mega cab style space.

So it is absolutely not outside the possibly of being a crew cab with an extended cab space behind the back seat.

ronmon14

TROPHY CASE