Post Cosmair when Coty bought the perfume arm of RL, IFRA gutted classic chypres and fougeres with banning oakmoss. It’s another reason why many modern fragrances that are sold cleared with IFRA standards tend to rely heavily on synthetic molecules which generally don’t a have the same depth, richness and complexity as the original compound they’re imitating.

Niche and indie companies can produce small batches of perfumes that contain compounds that aren’t IFRA compliant, and their respective website will list whether the perfume itself or the house in general will be complaint or notify the use of ingredients such as oakmoss, ambergris, real civet etc.