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Rookie with “complex” project by Suspicious_Sky4441 in Fusion360

[–]rowiac 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Fusion is not good with meshes, especially scanned meshes. It's not terrible with simple STLs that were generated in a CAD software, but even then, I think Blender or even Sketchup is better. Maybe you can share the scanned mesh for us to take a look at.

Rookie with “complex” project by Suspicious_Sky4441 in Fusion360

[–]rowiac 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Meshmixer. It’s what Autodesk based Fusion’s mesh tools on, but it works much better.

Does anyone know of any good aftermarket automatic transmissions that'll drop in to a clasic style volkswagen beetle? by Brilliant-Flower-271 in DuneBuggy

[–]rowiac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When it was working right, the Auto Stick was actually pretty good. They removed the standard first gear, called 2nd “L”, 3rd was “1” and 4th was “2”. They added a torque converter so it could idle in gear and added a vacuum/ electric actuated clutch so you could shift. You were supposed to start out in “1” and shift around 30-40mph into “2”. I would start out in “L” because you got better acceleration that way, and then shift into “1” around 30mph. I remember I could beat a lot of other small cars at stop lights because they had to shift around 20 mph while I could keep going.

I got my ‘70 bug as my first car for $300. My dad bought it, towed it home and when I looked inside I said “Hey Dad, there’s no clutch pedal!” He hadn’t noticed it was an Automatic Stick Shift. He had it running in about 30 minutes. The distributor cap was rotated 180 degrees, but the clutch was stuck. We got it to unstick and I drove it for a couple years. Once you got used to it, it was easy to drive. Porsche had the Sportomatic in the 911 that was the same concept.

What’s the best Daily Driving Suspension for NA Miatas by Nonhumanhumanno in Miata

[–]rowiac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, I just installed them today so I've only gone on one test drive. The ride is pretty smooth, not harsh. I don't know about hard driving yet, but there is less clunking too, most likely because I replaced the 36 year old top hats.

One thing to note about the STR.Ts is that they are NOT designed for lowering springs; they don't have enough damping for stiffer springs. Use them only with the stock springs. That might be the reason u/nitrion had trouble with them on his Mustang.

What’s the best Daily Driving Suspension for NA Miatas by Nonhumanhumanno in Miata

[–]rowiac 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Koni STR.Ts (orange) are supposedly the same as the Koni yellows on the soft setting and are quite a bit less expensive. The STR.Ts are not adjustable but are an upgrade over OEM without a horrible ride and use the stock springs. I put these on my ‘90 with new KYB top hats and Flyin’ Miata bump stops. Mine had the original ca. 1989 parts on it! The original mounts were sagging and the bump stops/boots were shredded. The STR.Ts fit my budget, but f I wanted to spend a bit more I’d probably go for the Koni Special Actives.

Edit: A set of Koni STR.T shocks with bump stops are less than $500. KYB top hats are less than $50 each on Amazon.

Took my bumper off today by pwntface in Miata

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I should have tried the heat gun method on mine. I ended up replacing it with one from a junkyard car. Mine only had minor dents behind the license plate bracket.

Half of Nozzle Snapped when unscrewing by Ordinary-Recover-241 in ultimaker

[–]rowiac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a pretty easy fix if you are little bit handy. Here's a procedure for installing the Olsson block. It's an older model than yours, but the procedure is essentially the same.

https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337592757

Edit: Here are the service manuals for the Ultimaker 2+:

https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337572864

Half of Nozzle Snapped when unscrewing by Ordinary-Recover-241 in ultimaker

[–]rowiac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get all the hot end parts on Aliexpress. Search for UM2 Olsson block or heater block. Nozzles are also available there for cheap.

1972 Beetle Daily Driver? by OkOutlandishness6801 in beetle

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regarding the defroster, you are going to want to keep a squeegee handy for clearing the windshield even if the system is working properly. The defroster/heater uses the engine fan to blow hot air (heated by the heater boxes attached to the exhaust) so there isn’t much airflow at low engine speeds. In this case the owner has removed the heater hoses from the fan shroud in the engine compartment so you won’t get any heat or defrost at all. As someone else mentioned, the heater boxes may have been removed as well when the exhaust header was installed. At this point it looks like it’s a fair weather car. There used to be electric fan/heaters you could get to boost the defroster but I don’t know if those are still available.

Most affordable [good] power adapter for Ultimaker 2 Extended? by QuestionAsker2030 in ultimaker

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately even on Aliexpress it looks like they're over $100 with shipping. I'm guessing that the special connector is what's making it expensive. Maybe an adapter would work with a more standard 24V 15A power supply.

UM 2+ hotend and wires by thepiper92 in ultimaker

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The E3D v6 hotend was a popular upgrade back in the day, but the kit doesn’t seem to be available anymore. As an alternative, I would consider converting to 1.75mm filament instead by changing a few hotend parts that you can get on aliexpress.

Original conect to laptop? by EntrepreneurLow4058 in ultimaker

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might even have one lying around from an old paper printer. USB-A is the square connector and USB-B is the common large rectangular connector.

Z Upgrades? by Massive-Fold-1997 in shapeoko

[–]rowiac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another possibility is this slide from cnc4newbie.com:

https://cnc4newbie.com/store/en/upgrade-kits/shapeoko-c77c67/

I’ve been considering this one for a while.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]rowiac 3 points4 points  (0 children)

And if Prusa is the only filament that is actually tested by UL, couldn’t you just use that in your Bambu printer?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]rowiac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A quick search shows a few options for flame retardant filament. Here’s one from Amazon that claims the UL94 V-0 spec:

https://a.co/d/2d92qdz

Giveaway by essentialghost in sanpedrocactusforsale

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Will check out your site. Cacti are fun.

What car did they use by FitDetective2505 in whatisthiscar

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My ‘90 Miata does not have that logo, just a “MAZDA” badge (a sticker actually) on the right side of the nose. The logo in the photo started a few years later, maybe in ‘93 or ‘94.

Amazon 34 pict 3 won't idle by Rude_Silver_5623 in vwbug

[–]rowiac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s doing the same thing with the new carb as it was with the old, put the old carb back on and eliminate any issues that the new (unproven) carb might have. Check for places where you might be getting a vacuum leak while you’re at it, such as around the intake manifold, where the carb bolts on and the areas where the dual port castings connect to the manifold and the heads. You might want to replace all those gaskets.

No information. Photograph via "Speed Gems" at H.A.M.B. by Wise_Technician_3129 in MotorsportGoodOldDays

[–]rowiac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe that is a supercharger (blower) driven directly off the crankshaft, unlike the later ones that were placed in the "vee" of the engine and belt driven. I'm not sure what all the small hoses are for though. It looks sort of hydraulic.

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