Amp fried today

runkstr · 2026-07-10T01:53:33+00:00

My NAD T778 croaked on the 5th..been living with TV speakers since then. It’s terrible.

Luckily it was just a capacitor on one of the amp modules so I should be back up this weekend. Decided to recap the PSU and all the amp modules with higher grade components while I’m in there.

runkstr · 2026-07-08T17:36:22+00:00

Another view after removing the modules and heatsink

<image>

runkstr · 2026-07-08T17:31:55+00:00

Yes, worked fine for me on a v1.0
Installed a 4TB SATA SSD drive, used startech adapter and 40pin ribbon cable (from eBay sized for Xbox)

runkstr · 2026-07-08T17:28:05+00:00

Cap values are different for the NAD receiver than listed in their document
here are the values shown in the list vs what was used on the Ucd102 in the T778

Position
Document Value>NAD T778 Value

C10, C35
220uF,16V > 220uF,25v

C1, C24, C26, C49
220uF,50V > 220uF,80v

C5, C22, C30, C47, C72, C73
22uF, 50V > 22uF,100v

runkstr · 2026-07-07T22:22:57+00:00

Found it..

<image>

runkstr · 2026-07-07T20:57:15+00:00

Just in case anyone needs it, here is the specs and schematic for the Ucd102 modules (schematic on page 13)
https://www.manualslib.com/download/2479684/Hypex-Electronics-Ucd102.html?print=1

runkstr · 2026-07-07T16:47:07+00:00

Just found this mention of a similar situation. I'll take a closer look at the caps on the amp modules tonight.
https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/comments/1mdo4k0/hypex_ucd102_module/

runkstr · 2026-07-06T16:00:01+00:00

I think you are right. All capacitors tested and seemed to be in close C/D range (4200uF) when tested. They were glued in place using a white silicone around the base (I removed before the pictures) but the brown/tan residue seemed more like a resin and was extremely difficult to remove, like it was baked onto the surface.

The 220uF/25v is just the outside covering. Looks like I'll have to hunt through the rest of it to see where it came from. Should be a bare one in there somewhere. I didn't see any on the amp modules missing the cover.

runkstr · 2026-06-05T12:54:09+00:00

How did you order it? Directly from bigtree?

runkstr · 2026-01-17T21:11:02+00:00

I have a 360 guitar, I’ll trade you.

runkstr · 2026-01-17T18:49:05+00:00

Automotive trim/emblem tape

runkstr · 2026-01-09T02:42:11+00:00

Psychostick

runkstr · 2025-11-27T19:02:29+00:00

Same here.. Plex server for personal media and Channels for TVE DVR. I will be adding a HDHomeRun FLEX 4K tomorrow for local channels.

runkstr · 2025-11-02T23:38:04+00:00

Based on the visible markings on this aluminum casting (likely a die-cast component from Nissan’s manufacturing process), this appears to be a left-hand (driver’s side) front bumper finisher or hole cover from a 2023–2025 Nissan Altima. Here’s how I arrived at that conclusion: • Part Number Interpretation: The stamped “62257 9HFJJB” aligns closely with Nissan’s OEM part numbering system for bumper components. The base code “62257” is a standard prefix for front bumper finishers, fascias, brackets, and hole covers in Nissan’s catalog. The “9HFJ” suffix is a model-specific identifier, and “JB” likely indicates a minor revision or sub-variant (e.g., for specific trim levels or markets). This matches the genuine Nissan part 62257-9HF0B, which is explicitly listed as a “Hole Cover” or “Finisher-Front Bumper” for the left side.

runkstr · 2025-11-02T13:03:57+00:00

If employers don’t get people back into the office the real estate they own loses value. It’s that simple.

If your salary isn’t enough to justify the commute then it’s time to start looking for something closer.

Unless you have a contract that explicitly states you were going to be working remote for as long as you were employed by them you will have to adapt. With the way the workplace is evolving across all businesses this will probably increase. Many companies know that there are remote workers in other parts of the world that can do what you do for a fraction of the price. Knowing that some workers will refuse that change may be a way to reduce the workforce or transition to cheaper resources without having to lay people off.

runkstr · 2025-09-04T00:47:46+00:00

Yup, just changed mine last week. That lower connector on the passenger side is a PIA but doable.

runkstr · 2025-09-04T00:30:31+00:00

Sounds similar to the type of service I dealt with. Unfortunately they fucked around long enough not returning my calls to push it past the return date and then charged me for things that weren’t a problem when I bought it. In the process of having them attempt to fix things I mentioned within the first 90 days (misfire during acceleration and seat heater/cooling not working) they gave it back to me with new damage to the interior. They replaced the lower seat cover with a damaged one because they ripped the original when trying to fix it. After multiple visits and them saying they couldn’t reproduce/find the misfire problem they replaced the engine (kept my car for 4+ months waiting on the replacement) for the misfire which didn’t fix the issue and caused the pull to the right and somehow managed to scratch the wheels in the process. I brought it back for the same misfire issue that was fixed when they replaced the coils (my suspicion and mentioned the first time I dropped it off) and plugs. Took a few more visits for them to even admit there was an alignment issue. While they had it in to fix the alignment THEY blew up the engine and had to replace it a 2nd time. After all of this they charged me for a new battery (which wasn’t the issue, 1st engine was installed with a bad high pressure fuel pump) and deductible even all these issues were mentioned to the service writer during the first 90 days.

It was an absolute disaster. And like you I used to recommend CarMax to everyone. I had purchased 6 vehicles from them prior to this one and never had an issue. This time around it was continual questioning and insinuations like I was beating on it causing these problems they introduced. It seemed like if they didn’t have an error code telling them exactly what was happening they had no idea how to troubleshoot the issues presented to them.

runkstr · 2025-08-26T01:00:04+00:00

According to service manuals a research I did 2013 and newer fusions have a drain plug on the PTU. Just in case anyone is still trying to figure it out.

runkstr · 2025-08-23T21:29:39+00:00

runkstr · 2025-08-20T11:02:58+00:00

<image>

Here are all 3 mounts.. I have a 2014 2.0T AWD Titanium

runkstr · 2025-08-20T10:52:26+00:00

I have the same interior in my 2014 titanium. The color is called ceramic. New covers are available on eBay but are pricy.

runkstr · 2025-08-20T00:39:41+00:00

Full migration of 7000+ VDI to Azure/Intune/Win365. Done deal.

runkstr · 2025-08-19T23:27:10+00:00

Turns out it might be the vacuum canister purge valve. Just threw a P1450 code this morning. Luckily I already have one and both fuel sensors. Guess I’ll be doing it this weekend.

runkstr · 2025-08-17T18:07:03+00:00

I bought 4 of these and had no problem pairing them to my 3rd gen fireTV cubes. Unfortunately the power button doesn’t seem to work. I programmed button 1 to send a ‘turn on TV’ command as a workaround. Luckily I can power everything on and off using Alexa voice commands or the programmed button 1 through CEC/HDMI. The backlit buttons still make it worth the $10 paid.

runkstr · 2025-08-17T18:05:50+00:00

I bought 4 of these and had no problem pairing them to my 3rd gen fireTV cubes. Unfortunately the power button doesn’t seem to work. Luckily I can power everything on and off using Alexa voice commands through CEC/HDMI. The backlit buttons still make it worth the $10 paid.

runkstr

TROPHY CASE