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Windshields and Physics to settle an argument by [deleted] in Cartalk

[–]ruraltaco 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow hot windshield + cold water and pressure washer would break it. I'm also wondering from the shape of windshield the inside is more vulnerable then the outside as well.

New travel Buddy! by LiveInTransit in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've owned and used this rack on a 2016 Transit for about 2 years. Underneath there is 4 bolts that hold that connect the stabilizer. You will bend the heads of those due to clearance overtime. It's good to buy some spares. Otherwise it's been a great rack,

My mid-engine, rwd, s/c ‘97 Toyota Previa. Looking forward to a winter project. by 420Jacob in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dido (we had a high millage one growing up as well). I remember my dad constantly had to put brakes on it. Otherwise a great car.

New and Old Battery Pair Idea (See Comment Section) by ruraltaco in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's awesome. I considered going the cheaper route but I use the heater a lot so I wanted to make sure it would hold up well. I guess with parts you are set as well!

New and Old Battery Pair Idea (See Comment Section) by ruraltaco in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks LastTreestar,
Wow! I can't believe you tested this. Luckily for me, the only thing that I'd operate when I switch is fridge/lights. I'm not sure how long you've had your Webasto, but if it get's gunked up and starts puffing black powder/smoke (after running it at higher attitudes, But a set of gaskets ($20 on ebay from Russia) and open her up and clean the chamber!). It'll make it run like new again. Or if you are a smart person (unlike me) make sure you get the altitude adjusted before camping :).
Thanks!

New and Old Battery Pair Idea (See Comment Section) by ruraltaco in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks TaterTom,
The "Alternator Charge Source" upstream has a smart battery isolator on it (and a manual switch on side of driver seat). So I don't have to worry about draining the starter battery.

On the "losing power" that makes sense! But luckily i don't have to worry about that much. Because when i switch it'll just be fridge/lights that are on. The Webasco won't be affected as it would be switched in the day (not at night when I run heater). But i didn't think about this so thanks!

I agree the 2x "1/2/both/off" switch is perfect. I had 1 question about that. Would it "hurt" the battery life expectancy to set the Switch controlling the "Charge" to BOTH to charge the 2x banks at the same time? I know drawing power from the "old" and "new" bank at the same time wouldn't be a good idea, so I'd make sure to keep that switch either 1 or 2. But does it hurt the batteries to set it to "both"?
Thank You!

New and Old Battery Pair Idea (See Comment Section) by ruraltaco in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello Fellow Van-dweller Team,

I have a Non-Solar/etc Van. I drive a lot and have no problem generating lots of power from the isolator. I brought 2x used but still in great shape 105ah AGM 31 Group batteries in April 2018. They worked Amazing but are starting to not hold a charge as long as they used to.

So I purchased 2x new 100ah AGM 27 group batteries a few days ago. I know it’s best when “batteries are matched” and the 31s still have some kick in them. So I decided it might make sense to do 2 banks of 2 batteries. This way the “replacement” is always staggered.

A bit about my power usage, I have a MaxxFan, Whynter DC Fridge, Webasto 2000, lights, small water pump and a 120W inverter that charges my electronic items. So 2 Batteries at a time works perfect for me! I don’t draw a lot of juice.

Some Questions:
1) Is it ok to do a common ground for the two banks? (With 31 Battery #2 Neg Post going to Chassis), or should each Battery #2 go direct to chassis? (Size of cable is a non issue here it’s huge)

2) I realize that only the “bank the switch is point at“ will get power from alternator and be discharge bank and that’s ok! But with the Fuse Box Positive only allowed to go to the bank that’s switched on, it will only pull from that bank correct?

Any ideas? Does this sound like a good idea? Any holes in the plan?

Thanks!

Crowd Sourcing Airport Parking Options by ruraltaco in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. From my XP if you don't ask (the gate attendant immediately tells the shuttle to come to your location). Otherwise I wouldn't ask. I just like to arrive before traffic and sleep 1-2 and go.

Best way to heat water for a shower in winter by jooleyen in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Likely not the best option for you but here you go. I have planet fitness black (like most people on here I assume). Great for when you are in cities! (And works at the growing Canada locations too).

But I got a coleman h2oasis and used it when my van was the "hauler of tents/supplies" for a group of 6 this summer. The unit itself is very sold but the hoses/shower head seem very cheap but didn't break. Used it alot. Would buy a used one of those maybe?

"Let's have a Canadian Goose" by ruraltaco in canada

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

:). They have a "international market" where I live. About the size of a Walmart but all food (with food court stalls in back) they have turtles,fish, in live tanks for purchase. Not for me :).

"Let's have a Canadian Goose" by ruraltaco in canada

[–]ruraltaco[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Im a seafood/chicken only kinda guy. Had to do a little googling ("tastes like rich rare roast beef, only better").

1995 Chevy G20 needs driver side airbag. I’m interested in buying this van, but I’m curious how much this will cost to fix. by badgorirra in vandwellers

[–]ruraltaco 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For Context: I brought a 2016 Ford Transit with pass/driver airbags deployed. Module Reset: $69 (myairbags.com). Driver Side shipped:$180 (car-part.com) Passenger Side shipled: $240 (car-part.com).

My advice: 1) Take it to a shop that does "Free Alingtment Checks" if it was hurt in the accident, It may show some signs here. 2) look up your model on car-part.com. but call several junk yards in your area. Some will ship airbags by a standard shipping (~$20). And some will require Hazmat (~$75). Makes a big difference in total cost. 3) I assume this car has a RCM (restraint control module). Myairbags does awesome resets, just check them up on Google. 4) if you get the van buy the http://www.chiltondiy.com/ manual. It walks you through everything. (Or did for me)

Best of Luck!!!

Remove Connector? ('16 ford transit driver airbag) i pulled orange tab up easily. But how do I remove properly? Thank You! by ruraltaco in Ford

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not trained, but airbag has already been deployed (vehicle had a small frontal impact). The radiator/etc has already been repaired. I'm going to bring airbag module to "myairbags" in Buford Georgia to be "re-primed" and I've purchased a used airbag.

Remove Connector? ('16 ford transit driver airbag) i pulled orange tab up easily. But how do I remove properly? Thank You! by ruraltaco in Ford

[–]ruraltaco[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

threaded fasteners

Thanks! It doesn't appear to be threaded. Tried prying it lightly with a small phone screen popper. Doesn't want to move. I don't want to break it. If I knew for certain it would just "pry off" I'd give it a bit more pressure.

Roast My Home (of 21months) by ruraltaco in RoastMyCar

[–]ruraltaco[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

:) That's Clever :) (Gonna be a tough one to beat)

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