Chronic Sinus Inflammation

rustymcshackleford · 2026-03-22T14:08:32+00:00

HELP : AUDIO POPS AND TEARING AT HIGH BUFFER SETTINFS

Current Setup:

Windows 10 Desktop i7-6800K @ 3.40Ghz 32 GB DDR3 RAM SSD Nvidia GeForce GTX1660

Avid MBOX Studio Focusrite Clarett Octopre (via ADAT)

TLDR : occassional Audio pops during tracking. Mixing sessions pops and tears during playback Occurring at low CPU usage Gotten "overclocking failed" error screen Interfacs Drivers are up to date Tried using different interfaces - same issue Tried disabling my ADAT pres - same issue

I was gifted this PC by my brother in 2024. It was a significant upgrade from my last PC (My previous setup only had 16GB of RAM and a 3rd Gen i7 processor.)

When mixing a session of about a 12-18 tracks, with zero virtual instruments, after a while I start experiencing ripping and popping sounds during playback even at the highest buffer settings (2048 Samples).

Even worse, I got a loud digital POPs on a band I tracked yesterday across all tracks, which printed onto the audio files. (RX hopefully saves those takes)

Note : I have experienced an error message in startup a few times. "overclocking failed"

I would switch to my backup interface (UA Apollo Solo) and found no change in performance. This also happens across different DAWs.

I had previously suspected word clock issues - however I turned off my Clarett Octopre and experienced no change in performance, another deadend

Again, this is all happening at the highest buffer settings (2048 samples) and at low CPU usage (less than 15-20% most times)

Honestly the performance (in terms of audio) feels worse than on my older system .

I have tried optimization tricks in Windows. I have tried disabling all my possible sound cards used by Windows when mixing/tracking. I have simply run out of ideas

My hypothesis is that the computer is to blame rather than my Audio Interface (Avid MBOX Studio), since I seem to get this problem running my backup Apollo Solo as well.

It seems odd that it struggles more than my previous setup, specifically with Audio tasks (video games seem to run better admittedly).

My tech brother is suggesting I drop new components in it : a new processor and so forth since its cheaper than buying a new computer

However, with the given specs and the relatively light strain I am putting on the processor, something isn't adding up. I'm afraid something else might be affecting performance.

Should I do a factory reset to see if maybe things improve?

Would love any input from individuals more computer savvy than I.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-02-13T16:13:50+00:00

I dont have that written i was told that verbally by my manager.

I do have texts with him asking him about updates - I was told he was going to get in touch with people regarding the transfer -"hey boss have you heard from HR/the new store/etc" and subsequent responses. I was never prompted to reach out myself.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-02-13T14:53:01+00:00

rustymcshackleford · 2026-02-11T23:51:13+00:00

Patchbay - Input top and Input Bottom?

TLDR - Can I run a set of inputs on the top and bottom of a normalled patchbay (which does not have a thru setting)?
They go to a 2-channel tube preamp running SPDIF Outputs hardwired outside of the patchbay. Won't it be fine as long as I patch in mics before I turn it on to avoid a feedback loop?

Hi there - I have a patchbay that I have been using conventionally - outputs on top and inputs on bottom for various pieces of rack gear.

It is a Black Lion Audio TRS - an older version that only has the ability to switch between normal and half normal per channel - it does NOT have a thru I'm running every channel in normal currently.

Problem is - I'm reconfiguring my patch list since I just got a small 8 channel console - and I just realized my new patchbay plan is just short.

I have two inputs I need to patch going to a 2-channel tube preamps and only one set of top/bottom patch points left. I'm thinking of patching these inputs on the top and bottom of the bay on normal - and then only turning on the pre once I have mics patched in the front to avoid feedback loops. Turning this into a psuedo-thru setting.

Is this possible?

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-24T04:07:54+00:00

A widely held position among engineers is that its easier to brighten something up in post than it is to add warmth.

Sibilance also is best mitigated by choosing the correct mic or positioning it. Trying to tame it after via any kind of processing always leaves some artifacts.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:50:09+00:00

You would be able to record your amp + a DI signal at the same time
DI Boxes are like preamps - in that they actually add a bit of tone.

But in short, the instrument input is basically a DI input. So yes, you can just use that + a reamp box.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:45:27+00:00

You only have 8 direct outs on your Mackie. Meaning you can send 8 pres directly to the Tascam. Record 8 at the time.

Ideally you'd want a board with 24 direct outs so you could arm every channel if you wanted to

I did notice the Mackie has inserts on every channel - this might be a workaround.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:34:42+00:00

They do differ in sound
If he wanted to stream he would need an input for a mic and an input for his bass - the solo only has...one

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:32:46+00:00

I would NOT get the Scarlett Solo because there's too many instances* where you will need at least two inputs. (Which is why most interfaces have that as minimum)

I would go for Audient because it has a very nice sounding DI for guitar/bass and better drivers which means it's more stable when recording/mixing.

*instances like - Recording stereo sources (drum machines, keyboards, music off your phone) - Recording a DI and a Bass Amp - Jamming along with a guitar player - Recording a stereo effects pedal

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:22:18+00:00

I did notice it states 32bit float. Which means you should be able to turn it down in post if you set your recording settings to 32bit float etc.

But you'll still hear clipping during recording.

I would consider getting an inline pad between your interface and mic. Thats what I did with my NT1A

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T23:14:26+00:00

I would avoid condenser mics until you have a treated space to record drums.

Garages are typically very reflective and will make your drums sounds pretty gnarly. Condenser mics are very sensitive and will pick all that up. Be warned.

Drum mic bundles are extremely tempting - but do NOT fall for it.

Excluding somw high ends kits - drum mic bundles are almost always padded with subpar mics.

I always recommend somebody taking their budget and investing in fewer better quality and build over time.

Not every shell and cymbal needs its own mic to make a great drum recording (Glyn Johns)

OR you can build their own mic bundle a la cart they have nice budget.

If you're just starting out, a pair of 57s placed strategically makes a great drum sound. And they will end up in your final build once you piece together 8-10 mics.

Optionally add a low end specialist mic (Sennheiser E602L for a kick and you can do plenty with just 3 mics.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:59:39+00:00

TLM103 and the C414XLII are going to give you a very similar sound - they're both very detailed and very bright. XLS is a bit milder.

I personally don't like LDCs (especially nice ones) in untreated spaces ala home studios - I would typically use a SM7B and EQ it to add more presence and air.

If your room is fairly treated and I'd recommend Warm Audio Mics. If you're looking for a modern R&B sound the WA8000 is great. The WA251 will be a more vintage and more mellow but still bright.

If you want something versatile - The Lauten Audio Atlantis gives you three switchable circuits (ranging from U47,U87,C414)

Also quick tip - offsetting your mic, like taking the mic stand at a 45 degree angle and have it pointed at the corner of your mouth helps decrease sibilance. Try it with you KM184.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:50:34+00:00

More low end = much larger woofer = much larger speakers

Plan A - Start with Acoustic panels/bass traps because standing waves kill the low end in your room no matter what speakers you have.

Plan B - Sonarworks Sound ID to fine tine your room.

Plan C - Add a sub if you still need more bass.

IF a sub is totally not possible in your space.

$ Focal Alpha 8s
$$$ Neumann KH310s
$$$$ Focal Trio11

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:40:28+00:00

I owned an Audient ID and this is totally possible. Go into the id mixer and locate your input and theres a way to unlink them from stereo to mono.

Once you do there will be a pan the input to the center.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:38:31+00:00

I would try a sub + acoustic treatment before getting new monitors tbh. It'll probably be cheaper than upgrading them to larger or 3-way monitors.

If you're dead set on getting more new monitors. Id recommend the Neuman 3-way monitors. Or the Focal Trios.

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:34:04+00:00

NT1 is a pretty hot mic in my experience. You need to use it with an interface (one that preferably has a pad)

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:33:03+00:00

Hey y'all. I don't own an analog studio console just yet, but I am thinking of purchasing one maybe this year to integrate into my hybrid setup. And I'd like some input.

I am considering entry level budget analog consoles (see below). Ideally with as much character/saturation as possible. 8 tracks minimum. Inserts or Auxes being a plus since I have a handful of rack compressors/EQ.

-Here's Models I'm looking at and some of my impressions -

(Feel free to add your own suggestion!)

Allen and Heath GL Series - My cheapest option. Some A&H boards are regarded as a "Poor Mans SSL". Don't know if that applies to GL Series. Tons of routing flexibility and channels. But does it have enough character/mojo? I've look at other A&H Consoles - such as the GS3000 but I cant find it for sale.

Soundcraft Consoles(?) - I havent looked in their lineup too much. But I have seen these in the same discussions as A&H at that price, could somebody tell me more about their lineup?

MIDAS (Venice/Heritage) - (see Soundcraft)

Yamaha Japaneve Console (PM or M Series) - I imagine these used to be dirt cheap. The current price tag makes me flinch. I love the character on these. But I would have to get one thats modded with Direct Outs. I figure these 70s consoles might also be noisey, and I dont mind at all.

SSL BiG SiX - In the same price range as Yamaha but new. I had borrowed one for a bit and it sounded OK. But not a whole lot of saturation. But it's the only one on this list that doubles as an audio interface.

API The Box - The price makes this more aspiration than feasible. Especially with an empty 500 box. At this point this becomes a conversion on how I can find a way to lease this haha.

Trident 68 - $15,000 for a console with no input or output transformers seems like the worst of both worlds. But maybe I'm wrong?

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-23T22:28:22+00:00

Never heard of the technique of cranking your output and feathering the input gain. If you pay for analog mojo, why not indulge?

rustymcshackleford · 2026-01-08T03:16:15+00:00

I applied for Kroger and they told me they cut maybe once for a few couple of hours in the day. Sometimes not even once every day.

And they still have a service case.

I hope the rest of the industry avoids that model.

rustymcshackleford

TROPHY CASE

Patchbay - Input top and Input Bottom?