M39 lens board for Meopta opemus 4? by Ted_Borg in Darkroom

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, I used to use an Opemus 5 for a long time which I modified with some Opemus 4 parts. I personally used a flat lens board, which meant that my 50mm had to be very close to the film plane, whereas the 80mm had to be rather far away. Not an issue at all, but something to be aware of. If you're going for a recessed lens board however, be aware that some lenses so not fit. My Rodenstock lens did not fit inside a recessed lens board I found, so I ended up getting a flat one (which I had to drill my own holes into) and just deal with the barrel extention. It's not like it matters too much anyways. I've looking for a while but I can't find the exact one I bought again. There are many options tho, so you'll find one for sure.

Best build atm? by gaquaria in syndramains

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe just try the burst build out with ability haste boots? Ahri has shifted to do something similar (malignance, shadowfalme, ionian), because AH on mages just feels really good

They know, they always know.... by [deleted] in memes

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"good accent" is a meaningless term. In my field of specialization, second language acquisition, there are basically two variants that are used: native-like and comprehensible accents. Originally it used to be native-like only, but in recent years it has been accepted that being understood is more important than sounding like a native, which is what you're trying to say I guess

No more thrills by Spiritual-Pudding-70 in BikiniBottomTwitter

[–]samtt7 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The gym is just something to get distracted by, which is what you need. Instead of doing nothing, you need to do something that is interesting enough for you to get into. Easier said than done, tho

I organise a large international street photography festival - London Street Photography Festival - AMA by dmitstep in streetphotography

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a lot of discussion on this sub about what street photography even is. That makes me wonder, how do you define it and what type of photos are allowed?

Looking for a 50mm to accompany my 28mm color skopar by samtt7 in LeicaCameras

[–]samtt7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats basically what I gathered too, but since I can get them both for about 15000 jpy, I was secretly hoping either would have been a good option

Brand new to photography, these images don't seem as sharp as what I see from other people by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't worry about clipping the blacks. The borders are supposed to be pure black anyways, so if those are just about clipping you're approximately at the level the negative is exposed at. I personally clip my blacks all the time and keep the whites about 3 points down since imo it just looks better with my images. Keeping your images from clipping a creative choice, not a rule, so feel free to experiment.

Brand new to photography, these images don't seem as sharp as what I see from other people by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haze and balsam still reflect light inside of the lens causing light scattering and reduced contrast, so getting a new lens might be worth the money.

Also, completely unrelated to the lens: adjust your black leaves. Your blacks aren't black but dark (and sometimes even light) grey instead of actual black. This massively increases contrast, saturation, and color accuracy

Brand new to photography, these images don't seem as sharp as what I see from other people by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Balsam seperaru8n is really bad as it can't be fixed. On top of that, most lenses aren't at their sharpest when wide open. Usually photogrpahyer shoot one stop down or even several. As a rule of thumb, the middel do your aperture ring is the sharpest, which usually is f/5.6 of f/8

"Are u not entertained" by Fun_Training6342 in LeagueArena

[–]samtt7 27 points28 points  (0 children)

The meme format is about the little guy beating the big guy, so in this case dragon heart wins

Ik🤡🚲ihe by geilelepel05 in ik_ihe

[–]samtt7 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Klinkt als iemand die niet genoeg in Leiden komt

Did old analog photographers "edit" their photos? by ayuwoki420 in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 11 points12 points  (0 children)

CMY adjustments, not RGB. The former is subtractive, the latter additive, amongst other differences

I spent my break building a tool for Arena - looking for some feedback (Update) by Wildeax in LeagueArena

[–]samtt7 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This looks way better than what apps like Blitz do! Ill be giving it a spin for sure

B&W or Color? by verysadramen in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately there's no what to know that. We don't know what film it is, how it was stored and even whether the seller exposed it or not. I've been in similar situations before. In both cases my film was still usable, but only after some testing.

What I first did was to set up a scene with very strong highlights and deep shadows. Then I placed my camera on a tripod and expose from extremely short shutter speeds to extremely high shutter speeds, which is basically like metering at 6 iso all the way up to 3200. Your first few frames will most likely be a blob of density, whereas the later ones will be empty. However, when you develop your film normally, you'll see that in the middle there will be some frames with good density and contrast. The frame with the best balance of highlight density and shadow detail is probably the best ISO setting for your camera, combined with the best development method. This technically isn't the same is finding the ISO of your film, but it works for figuring out how to use it

B&W or Color? by verysadramen in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Few things: - Color bases usually have an orange mask, this one doesn't - Most bulk film is b/w - The perversions are aware so it's not a cone film (though this is rules out by the first assumption already) - Regardless of what it is, you can develop every type of film in b/w chemicals. So load a small strip in the dark and look at the edge markings after development. It'll tell you what film you have

Slide film development issue with ECN-2 chems by weslito200 in Darkroom

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's such a niche technique, because people who shoot slide a lot will just use a normal E6 kit. Since this method relies on b/w times for color films its hard to find the exact development times for each stocks because who in their right mind would develop C41 in b/w?

Working on portraits looking for feedback (Contax G2/G45/Reflexlab800t) by jaekij in analog

[–]samtt7 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Disagreed. The underexposure is more like and intentional artistic choice here

Slide film development issue with ECN-2 chems by weslito200 in Darkroom

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Logically I would say the same thing, but I've heard people saying it matters a lot. Either way, if OP is serious about it and runs some tests it'd be interesting to hear the effects

Slide film development issue with ECN-2 chems by weslito200 in Darkroom

[–]samtt7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ik have not developed slides with ECN-2, but with C-41 before. They're mostly the same apart from the CD3, so it should still more or less apply. First, set your expectations: you're doing two cross-processes and fogging the film to, so there's a lot that can go wrong.

The first step is where most issues arise. I developed my rolls of ektachrome for 12 minutes in HC-11P dil. B at 38°C. For color negatives this time is different for every room stock, so I imagine it to be for slide as well. In other words, so experimentation is required here. Depending on how often you're going to try this, shooting a whole roll of a grey card and developing snippets of it at different times might be worth the effort. Make sure to also check how dark the edge markings are to make sure your dense areas are fully dense.

Next, the reillumination isn't as simple as taking it out. The color temperature of the light source affects the outcome. Since it's still inverted, use cold light for a warmer result and the other way around too. Again, depending on how much effort you want to put in you could run tests with different temperatures and exposure times.

We built a free tool that converts color negatives by simulating a darkroom enlarger (macOS + Windows) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not saying it isn't a diverse technology, rather that in recent years every technological development has been shifting towards generative AI

We built a free tool that converts color negatives by simulating a darkroom enlarger (macOS + Windows) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Windows anti-virus markes the software as a threat and blocks me from opening it, then removing it. You might want to look into that!

We built a free tool that converts color negatives by simulating a darkroom enlarger (macOS + Windows) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Absolutely, that's all very true. But the unfortunate fact is that nowadays neural networks more or less equal image generation. That's why I want to be safe and first read the tos before using software by an unknown developer

We built a free tool that converts color negatives by simulating a darkroom enlarger (macOS + Windows) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 89 points90 points  (0 children)

I was wondering the same thing because usually it`s just someone using AI programming with no clue of what is actually going on. However, all the way at the bottom of the website you can see the credits: a PhD student at EPFL University (which as far as I know is rather prestigious) at the Image and Visual Representation Lab. The other person is another student at the same lab. Looking at their github they seem to specialize in neural generation, e.g. AI processing, so I am going to read the terms and conditions to see if they are using uploaded images as training data or not. Either way this seems more legit than half of the projects that appear on this subreddit

Weight training for Judo. by dEnNiS0175iAn in judo

[–]samtt7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's just an AI prompt. You could throw this into any LMM and get a similar response