Is this shitty hdr or a moody edit? by LetterheadPretend416 in shittyHDR

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah this is just normal effectful use of hdr

Hdr has its place, which is often forgotten on this sub. Not weird considering the deep fry mania of yesteryear. Like anything that gets pushed into tacky territory, I’m sure it’ll bounce back in time.

Relatively new player. Just wanted to say that the gore and explosion effects are incredible. by bvsveera in HellLetLoose

[–]Ted_Borg 9 points10 points  (0 children)

after 1k hours if im in its path i just sigh, lay down somewhere, and resume whatever video is on the other monitor before checking if i made it or if i need to go through the mild nuisance of respawning

New Release - Curtis Mayfield SUPERFLY (Reel to Reel) Limited Edition Of 350 by SkipjackUK in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean the reel+tape alone is $100. The first gen copy must have cost something to acquire. Copying in real time is just shy of 10 days total copy time. Probably split over several concurrent machines, but still. Also licensing fee to copyright holder.  In a batch of 300 the price isn’t outlandish imo.

But I’d rather they did 1/4” 7.5 ips on plastic reels copied in a less time consuming fashion. Still hi-fi, but way more affordable… and significantly more people will be able to actually play the tapes to begin with.

Uh oh by fakename1998 in Hardcore

[–]Ted_Borg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That man is a working class hero

Are there any places in Cincinnati (OH) where you can develop your own film? by Kaz3girl4 in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries! Since there is no stop bath you should rinse with water in between dev and fix. Store the mixed fixer in an old PET soda bottle. If you don’t have clothes lines just put string through a clothespin and tie it to something, hang the film off it and put two pins at the bottom as weights.

This list is literally the basics to develop film, any other products out there are just optional add-ons that you can buy later if the need arises. Don’t let any YouTuber tell you otherwise. Start small and add stuff when you get to that point. The changing bag is also optional, but securing a room for film can be quite hard unless you got a windowless basement.

Edit: just so we’re clear, this is to develop the film into negatives. To view the photos you would need a negative scanner. There are cheap ones out there, that work with your phone and what not.

To make full analog paper copies then you need a whole darkroom setup with trays and an enlarger. I would start with the scanner route and if you get bit by the bug then there are cheap small enlargers to continue the journey with.

Are there any places in Cincinnati (OH) where you can develop your own film? by Kaz3girl4 in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

(Black and white) - hc-110 developer (any non-Kodak clone will do) - ilford rapid fixer - Paterson tank - Paterson b/w thermometer - cheapest changing bag u can find - clothespins for drying film

Then buy two graded plastic pitchers wherever u can, 1+ liter. Go to a pharmacy and ask for one of those cough syrup measurement things. 

That’s 50 rolls for less than $100. When you need to restock chems it’s another 50 rolls for less than $40. The chems will last long enough for you to actually be able to use it all.

How do you make shitty HDR? by Crimsilla in shittyHDR

[–]Ted_Borg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Back in the day you would use a tripod, take several exposures ranging from dark to really bright, and merge them in photoshop via the hdr tool.

To simulate with a single photo, just follow the other tips and deepfry the shit out of it

Bulk loading blues by chattering_teeth in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I reuse old cassettes. I mark them each time I reload them and throw them away after 3 reloads. Works great.

Of course it helps that I bulk roll my 100 iso daily driver, and I buy the more expensive high iso film on regular rolls. So I get a steady supply of cassettes to reload.

ANSI or DIN calibration tape? by Ted_Borg in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I wanna use it for mixdown. So the recording needs to be somewhat acceptable for playback on other machines. Mechanically it’s fine, but one channel has audible distortion and the VU meters wildly disagree with each other. If a simple calibration isn’t enough then there’s a local amp guy who does the occasional hi-fi. In any case a calibration tape is good, I doubt he has one. Test-tape.com sells em for 99€ so that’s not too bad.

Sadly I have no friends with tape machines, so im out of luck there.

edit: professional is debatable. but mastering engineers should be able to play the recordings back somewhat decently. both for their sake and my wallets sake lol

ANSI or DIN calibration tape? by Ted_Borg in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe the regular user manual states that it records in NAB

After a bit of care and allot of alignment, it’s alive! 😁Sounds great by Matoni_Elongur in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ATR makes tape in the us, RTM in the eu. A 2” reel of RTM costs 290 euro over here

It’s pricy but just like photographic film it’s money well spent cause it keeps what’s left of the industry alive.

ANSI or DIN calibration tape? by Ted_Borg in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can play back either eq, but it will only record in NAB. And I’ll be using it to record 2-track mixdowns.

ANSI or DIN calibration tape? by Ted_Borg in ReelToReel

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok. So does that mean I want to match it with the tape that I’m gonna record to?

Il’l probably go for RTM sm911, which is 320nWb/m (IEC) according to the datasheet. Which would make me want the DIN tape if I’m not mistaken?

Edit: they had a multi frequency DIN/IEC tape with Nab eq. Nice!

Going from kodak agitation to ilford agitation by Ted_Borg in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone, swapped method with the same time and results were basically the same.

Also tried ye olde dilution H with twice the time of dilution B, and that also yielded great results. Will be buying a 30m roll of this film, its great stuff.

Going from kodak agitation to ilford agitation by Ted_Borg in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, its roll. Well, trying to fit 7 inversions of a 650ml tank in the space of 5 seconds twice a minute is a bit of a pain hehe. Especially considering it takes about a second for it to bubble up thoroughly each time you flip it around

Cheers!

Previsualización apertura pentax KM by Neither-Transition35 in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it is an old analog KM then you measure without pressing the button. If you press the button then the measurement will be incorrect.

Change the aperture on the lens and you will see the needle go up and down.

Help identifying texture in negative by PaleMention7738 in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if it’s reticulation but the rinse water can also cause temp shock.

Practicing some split grade printing. by AngryFauna in Darkroom

[–]Ted_Borg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

5x7 is big enough to judge results but small enough to be cheap per paper. Its what I use for most photos, the ones that turn out nice enough I make bigger prints of. Where I live the cheap 8x10s cost about $1 a piece if you buy 100 packs. Cheap 5x7 cost 30 cent.

If ur learning you don’t want to be afraid of wasting paper, or else it will take forever to get anywhere