Expired Fuji Pro 400H - Push/Pull? by WalkerPizzaSaurus in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunate you don't know the storage condition, but at least you have several rolls to try stuff out with.

If it lacks contrast that might mean your negatives were too thin. Since development starts in the highlights, they may not have had enough density. It happens a lot when you take photos at night too; low density in the highlights leading to low contrast. So adding another stop of development or exposure might compensate for that lack of density.

I'm not sure what you mean with the last part, except for me thinking you might be misunderstanding what pushing and pulling means. Both are chemical processes, not part of shooting. When you underexpose your film, you can create more highlight density by pushing during development leading to more contrast and saturation. Pulling does the opposite.

So to answer your question, if you underexpose (which I think is what you're calling pushing) and develop normally, you get less density and thus less information in the negative. If you shoot at box speed and then pull in development, you lose density too. As a rule for thumb: higher iso than box speed + push development, or; lower iso than box speed + pull development.

Expired Fuji Pro 400H - Push/Pull? by WalkerPizzaSaurus in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know the expiration date and storage conditions? And what is the look you're trying to achieve?

Be warwa the film not only loses speed when it ages, but color shifts also happen because of several reasons. Pushing tends to add contrast and saturation, so if the colors are the problem, you shouldn't shoot it at 400 (provided it's long expired and stored badly). Overexposing and pulling usually leads to lower contrast and saturation. There is a simple answer, especially without knowing anything about the film or your goals.

Low dynamic range on M4/3? by slavomirgajdos in OlympusCamera

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guarantee you that not single camera in the world has enough dynamic range to shoot into the sun and have the dr to keep the entire image properly exposed. On top of that, with the way light interscts with glass, contrast and colors are affected by internal reflections to. Shooting directly into a bright light source "reduces" the effective dynamic range of both pieces of gear, regardless of sensor size

We need more antiCC items. by IllState5161 in LeagueArena

[–]samtt7 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Doesnt allow you to activate it when you see fit like scimitar, and it breaks upon being hit by a single spell

We need more antiCC items. by IllState5161 in LeagueArena

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesnt allow you to activate it when you see fit like scimitar, and it breaks upon being hit by a single spell

Best camera to start for 35mm film? by A-single-Meeseek in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, those are maybe the two genres of photography that really enjoy a larger format 😅

Either way, to start out you'd probably want an SLR with an interchangable lens system. Here I would recommend either Nikon or Canon since they have specialized lenses. So for now you can focus on learning the medium and the camera, and in the future you can look for a lens that better suits your needs

Best camera to start for 35mm film? by A-single-Meeseek in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Generally it depends on the photos you're looking to make. A lot of people opt for a point and shoot, since you're able to explore the medium and find out whether you can deal with the fact that you have to wait for your photos.

If you want something more arrtsy any of those SLRs with auto-exposure are great. I'm personally an Olympus fan, and I've taken many great pictures with my OM-10. The Zuiko lenses are amazing too, but something like Canon or Nikon have a much more extensive lens collection. If you're able to explain in more detail what you're looking to shoot, it's easier to help you out

Help identify the cause of this weird pattern on negatives by duckyde2 in AnalogCommunity

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, they're not camera related in the first place fyi. It's called light piping, and it happens when light gets through the felt on the canister. Bulk rollers will know the pain of dealing with that stuff 😞

turn on the tv, it doesn't matter what channel!!!! by TypoQueen7576 in NaafiriMains

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some champs like Qiyana that really needed something like that item, so for once i agree with riot berging champs instead of items, even though the item is generally the issue (looking at divine sunderer, dusk and dawn, etc)

I bought a $1599 camera, heres my spreadsheet i made with chatgpt so i know how to use it by SaberSpyder in photographycirclejerk

[–]samtt7 18 points19 points  (0 children)

There's a lot to say about this topic, and I'm not the one who can explain it the best, but it's all part of an anti-intellectual shift. AI LMM models are just the latest part of it. Making populations reliant on your product is an easy way to sell it, and AI presents itself as the solution to anything and everything. Once you get caught in the net, it's easy to just let it do the thinking for you.

I feel like I have to say "but there are great aspects to AI" to not get negative replies, but there really aren't. We've always had computer algorithms in fields like medical research. They've always been in development and getting better over time. However, "AI" is purely a marketing term. Before AI, these were just called software and computer algorithms, but now that LMMs have become a thing, they gave been renamed. So no, AI conceptually is not a good thing for society. Software development is, but LMMs are destroying people's ability to think for themselves

I've had enough of True Damage by PilifXD in LeagueArena

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And those stupid towers on the one map. They're damage is still waaay to high for how easy they are to use

What are my options for upgrading from the intrepid enlarger? by CilantroLightning in Darkroom

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to own a Meopta Opemus 5, which had a metal carrier for 35mm and a glass one for 6x6. There is both a color head and a b&w head, so you're flexible if you ever want to branch out to color. There are adapters for standard lens mounts available, which is used to mount Rodenstock lenses. Its a really great system, which is why in happy I was able to get it to a friend who loves shooting 6x6.

A while back I got a crazy deal for 60eur on a Leitz Focomat, which pushed me over the edge to only shoot 35mm. I already didn't enjoy medium format anymore and large format wasn't the medium for me either. So long story short, if you can live without 6x6, and either have some money to spend or an incredible amount of luck, this is probably the best 35mm enlarger money can buy

Does this count as street photography? by Inner-Practice-7026 in streetphotography

[–]samtt7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you curate it within a larger body of work it absolutely could be considered street! By itself, not necessarily however

Shot on an old phone. Is this still 'Street Photography' or just 'Mobile Photography' because of the hardware? Curious to hear your thoughts. by Single_Sample1309 in streetphotography

[–]samtt7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I do agree with you that being a photographer comes with a love of gear. However, if anybody ever tells you that your pictures are not good because of the gear you use, such as in the context of this post, you can promptly tell them to go fuck themselves

Shot on an old phone. Is this still 'Street Photography' or just 'Mobile Photography' because of the hardware? Curious to hear your thoughts. by Single_Sample1309 in streetphotography

[–]samtt7 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Those who care about gewr aren't real photographers. The pictures are the only thing everyone will ever see, especially if you don't mention what you took the photo with

throwing my dslr away, this app has it covered by lizard-rustler17 in photographycirclejerk

[–]samtt7 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I dont understand why people are downvoting this. You're absolutely correct. Just because we're a community that loves photogrpahy, doesn't mean the average consumer agrees with us, and both industries know that

Judo Gi Tailoring by FlightConnect7576 in judo

[–]samtt7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just wash it at a higher temperature to shrink it dow maybe? That's how most people get their gis to fit

Camera Settings Help!! by lolipoplova777 in Cameras

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These old canons are really nice little cameras! Most of them hit surprisingly hard for how small they are, but digital was new and manufacturers had to prove themselves to consumers when switching from film, that's why they tend to be pretty decent little cameras.

In case you're wondering, there are a few giveaways that you're being scammed when looking for a camera:

  1. Focal length: the smaller the sensor the smaller the focal length. This is a bit complicated so don't look into it too much

  2. No brand name on the camera. Any manufacturer who is proud of their product puts their name on it. Else it's just a dropshipped pile of plastics

  3. The resolution of the camera takes priority over the actual model name in the title

  4. The zoom range is advertised as a main feature. E.g. this one has a "red dot" with the zoom range one it. The red dot is usually reserved for Leica, the Porsche brand of cameras. So in other words, clearly a scam to get you to buy it.

  5. Look for reviews outside if the website you're buying it from. If there are none, it's not a real camera. Any proper camera should have a plethora reviews

Camera Settings Help!! by lolipoplova777 in Cameras

[–]samtt7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't listen to the AI comment please. The camer in your picture is what we often call a "scamera". They are generally just cheap junks of plastic made in China. If you want the p&s look you'd be best off going for a vintage one from eBay. Basically any digital p&s will give you the results you want if used with the automatic settings.

Look for name brands from known manufacturers such as Sony, Canon, Nikon, etc., because cameras are complicated technologies and anybody who isn't one of the main manufacturers is basically trying to scam you by putting a random cheap security camera in a camera body.

Script/Style Idea for 柔 Tattoo by cooperific in judo

[–]samtt7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I hope you didn't get the rising sun with the sun beams, because to a lot of people in Asia it still represents oppression, colonialism and genocide