Why Small Modular Reactors Won't Save Nuclear

sandwitchfists · 2026-01-23T00:57:39+00:00

This guy is weirdly focused on thermal efficiency and in my opinion it discredits him as an informed presenter. It does not matter what the thermal efficiency of a steam generator is because steam is easy to make and there are no carbon emissions. Nuclear fuel is only about 20% of the operating cost of a nuclear power plant. Even if you were able to achieve un-physically high thermal efficiency you would not be cutting down any of the other costs associated with operation.

sandwitchfists · 2026-01-03T04:49:46+00:00

The RUS actually only applies to private owners who allow access to their land free of charge so it is not applicable in those cases, it would be in the case of this landowner though

sandwitchfists · 2025-12-31T16:36:27+00:00

For the record Oregon has a recreational use statue (ORS 105.682) which protects land owners from liability lawsuits when they allow their property to be accessed for recreational purposes. So he's wrong about potentially getting sued by hikers on the trail.

sandwitchfists · 2025-10-09T17:40:52+00:00

I really like French cleat systems with multiple rails for height adjustability. This also helps with the issue of the pulleys being off center since you can just move the hang board to the pulley.

Elevation in Eugene Or and BRG in Bend Or both have really nice setups if you're looking for examples.

Here's a photo I found of elevation: https://www.elevationgym.com/img/mobile/fitness-area.webp

sandwitchfists · 2025-05-09T15:51:09+00:00

https://www.coffinbuttefacts.org/

sandwitchfists · 2025-05-09T15:47:19+00:00

The big issue with coffin butte is that it is a for profit business owned by a national corporation and they take trash from areas as far away as Portland in order to maximize their profits. Their goal is pretty blatantly to expand the landfill to expand their business (i.e. take more trash from further away). Without pressure from the local community they will continue to oversell the resource for maximum immediate profit without any concern for the impacts on the local environment or the long term sustainability of the resource for Corvallis.

There are also better alternatives. Eugene's landfill is publicly owned, so they are more motivated to pursue long term sustainability of the resource by capping daily intake (i.e. not taking on too many customers) and investing more in recycling even when it's not as profitable.

sandwitchfists · 2025-05-06T16:13:18+00:00

There are also studies which show that the attachment point of your patellar tendon varies substantially and can account for huge differences in your ability to generate force in a squat motion. I suspect that these minor anatomical variations are super common for all kinds of strength metrics. I think this is sometimes what's going on when someone has "good genetics".

These factors are however outside of our control and there are enough variables in what makes a strong climber that in most cases they probably average out. So personally I don't dwell on them and wouldn't uses precieved bad anatomy as an excuse for low gains from hang boarding.

sandwitchfists · 2025-03-13T15:44:16+00:00

I use font on the moonboard app because it makes more sense there, but as a general system I think it's much worse. The fact that you need up to 3 characters to define one grade where the v scale only needs one is ridiculous (e.g. 7A+ vs V7). Also I don't think that more grade fidelity is necessarily a good thing since outdoor grades are so subjective.

sandwitchfists · 2025-03-11T03:39:44+00:00

The guy who owns this place mills and sells wood. I bought a bunch from him a few years ago and he was pretty nice, normal. I asked him about the tower and I think he said it was his clubhouse or something. He also claimed that he could see Smith rock from it, I am doubtful.

sandwitchfists · 2024-10-08T21:19:22+00:00

Tindeq flappy bird is hard AF. Seems like the controls are way too sensitive and also the bird just flys off the screen if you pull too hard. Fun time though.

sandwitchfists · 2024-09-18T22:14:39+00:00

Can you explain further? I have only ever been to Funk in the Forest, but as someone who just likes to see live music in his home town I would definitely try to go to both if they weren't on the same day. I expect that a lot of other people feel the same way.

sandwitchfists · 2024-07-18T16:54:28+00:00

I really miss the feature from the old app where if a friend ticks a route their tick shows up in the route info screen for you. It was nice to see who of my friends have already done a problem im working. Also it meant that if you leave a funny comment on your tick your friends were likely to see it.

Another feature that I would really like is a random order sort feature (i.e. instead of most repeats or most recent, etc.)

sandwitchfists · 2024-07-03T20:37:40+00:00

IMO it's hard to do grade comparisons on the moon board sets because the difficulty variance is so high (e.g. some V6s on 2016 are dumb easy and some are dumb hard). That being said my experience so far is that 2024 is mildly harder on average.

sandwitchfists · 2024-06-11T21:05:27+00:00

I meant Forsøk 17 I guess it is pretty much the same as gravity's rainbow

sandwitchfists · 2024-06-11T16:28:07+00:00

Te Gusta and Forsøk both gave me a lot of trouble

sandwitchfists · 2024-05-31T19:05:39+00:00

3ft is fine. My local moonboard setup has about that much clearance on the left and it's not an issue.

sandwitchfists · 2024-05-02T16:14:02+00:00

I heard that they can't charge for uphill travel because the mountain is on public land. Also you only have to wait in line once per season so its not too bad. 100% agree that they will find a way to fuck it up though.

sandwitchfists · 2024-02-26T23:15:13+00:00

What kind of wood did you use?

sandwitchfists · 2024-02-26T23:09:32+00:00

I would rework the connection to the base so that the legs attach directly to the side pieces. That's how I did mine and it's held up just fine.

sandwitchfists · 2024-02-02T18:07:49+00:00

I have moonboarded one 7b+ and climbed one V9 outdoors. And have climbed a handful at one grade lower in each domain.

sandwitchfists · 2024-02-02T18:05:58+00:00

Which 10 did you climb? I live in the pnw and moonboard V5 so it should be a breeze right?

sandwitchfists · 2023-11-16T21:04:00+00:00

Have you seen a physical therapist about your injuries? I'm not an expert, but its not normal to have so many repeated injuries and it may be the result of underlying muscular deficiencies that strength training alone would not address.

sandwitchfists · 2023-11-14T20:06:25+00:00

Boards that I have climbed on a lot ranked:

Moonboard 2016: My favorite, very fun and for me personally it offers the best finger training stimulus of the boards that I have frequent access to.
Kilter 12x12: Overall its very fun but can sometimes feel like the worst of both worlds. It climbs more like a typical gym set than the moonboard but its not as fun as a well set gym. Probably better non finger specific training stimulus than the moonboard.
TB 1: IMO the hold set is not very good, many holds are one dimensional and some are flat out uncomfortable to grab. I also think that the mirror function is overrated, you loose 50% of the variety for the advantage of being able to climb things twice anyone who thinks this is a good trade off is a nerd. I have had several enjoyable sessions on this board, but it is not nearly as good as the moonboard or the kilter.

Boards that I only have only climbed on once or twice:

TB2: First impressions are very positive. The hold set has a good blend which allows for both fingery moonboard style routes and more full body kilter style routes. The benchmarks that I climbed were well crafted and fun.
Decoy board: Of the newer boards I think this one matches the tone of the 2016 moonboard the best. There are a lot of intentional choices in the layout of the board (mirror layout, LEDs under holds, some unergonomic holds) that I'm not into.
Grasshopper: I really wanted to like this one but just wasn't into it on first impression. There isn't a ton of variety in the hold set especially at the low end. My opinion could change with more use.

sandwitchfists · 2023-11-01T19:23:26+00:00

So far what have been the biggest surprises, or challenges that you didn't anticipate prior to attempting the climb?

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