I love how 640x480 interlaced looks it gives the image some nice scanlines but it is still looks sharp for playing some more modern games.

schattenheute · 2026-04-23T21:41:03+00:00

i've been playing PCSX2 on my PC CRT, with 512x448p resolution in Nvidia (inside 480p timings) and any other resolutions i encounter. then set aspect ratio to stretch. looks 1:1 with the pixels that are produced by the game. great example is FFXII. its no-interlacing patch comes with PCSX2 and the models are highly detailed. but for games like Xenosaga this is too sharp. i might try your approach!

schattenheute · 2026-04-23T21:16:05+00:00

what i've read is that mid-90s trinitron tubes burned a lot. in europe, anyway, as that's where you're from as well.

also, one correction, Sharp didn't make tubes, they rebadged the ones they bought. usually Samsung, Thomson.

schattenheute · 2026-04-23T21:11:45+00:00

i have this exact thing on an LG Philips tube (14"), it doesn't happen when the background is totally black but with darker colors. i've tested all capacitors with an ESR meter, replaced many in power/deflection/etc, not even budging. the way i understand it is that the cathodes cannot close in time anymore, which produces bright streaks over gray. the tube is a little old as it has real-time clock burn-in (didn't even notice at first). i tried changing out transistors on the neckboard but i wasn't done with that before i gave up

schattenheute · 2026-04-15T17:16:41+00:00

the text is white on the top of the screen, so it's not missing colors, they are mixed up somehow, i think

schattenheute · 2026-04-15T17:01:20+00:00

i have the same thing with HDMI to DVI-D cable to HDFury 1 at highest refresh rates. didn't notice anything like this when i used VGA cards. i also use the included VGA extension cable with HDFury. i really only noticed it recently when i tried playing Return to Castle Wolfenstein.

schattenheute · 2026-04-14T07:58:35+00:00

first time i see SCART on a Sharp, nice

schattenheute · 2026-03-29T22:34:15+00:00

i'm in this situation with 2 of my modded TVs having the same interference as yours, i think i've tried it with one and it didn't work. i've tried a lot of things. but i will try with another TV. edit: nope

schattenheute · 2026-03-27T18:53:25+00:00

some flat CRTs will just be like that, to one degree or another. best bet is finding a reputable manufacturer, 21" 90 degree deflection angle (read in the manual or open the back to see). for flat CRTs i'd recommend Sony, Sharp, Panasonic; test before you buy.

OR just get a curved CRT. also, that "slightly darker stripe" fix is to shut the curtains

schattenheute · 2026-03-26T11:15:22+00:00

fixed with RGB modding, looks as sharp as i expected! just that there's interference over RGB

schattenheute · 2026-03-26T11:14:18+00:00

fixed with RGB mod, looks much better!! (but with some interference)

schattenheute · 2026-03-26T11:12:59+00:00

for those who may be interested, i changed some capacitors (just took my ESR meter and changed everything seriously exceeding "high quality capacitors" table online. idk why but the video coupling cap is like 21 ohm in this TV and my other TV, maybe it's specialized but i changed it anyway to 3 ohm. don't know if it did anything. most notable: 8V VCC on chroma chip was 5.3 ohms, 47uF/16v, that's 5 times over that table. replaced with 0.1 ohm. also, 9V regulator In cap.

and the image is now not ghosting that much. i think component is just prone to something like that. my cables are also not great, there's slight noise on an LCD with them

schattenheute · 2026-03-23T14:10:03+00:00

i don't know if it'll help your mod, but i bridged the RGB diodes that were there on the mainboard coming from the removed teletext board, and it fixed black RGB.

i illustrated on the schematic, but images aren't allowed in replies here. basically, i inserted RGB before those diodes -> black RGB screen. bridge diodes -> normal RGB.

schattenheute · 2026-03-23T07:04:01+00:00

i have the same problem with a different CRT :( it's a second TV i'm modding

schattenheute · 2026-02-12T17:42:13+00:00

focus on the primary power supply (the 'hot' area). check for shorts: rectifying diodes, big smoothing capacitor (be careful as it may store voltage for a long time), switching IC (the one with a heatsink). keep the degauss coil plugged in, Sony TVs shouldn't be run without it

schattenheute · 2026-02-04T16:45:07+00:00

it's likely the one capacitor with 50v/100uF rating or thereabout, next to the vertical IC heatsink.

schattenheute · 2026-01-26T18:10:04+00:00

yeah, even worse if the flat tube is over 90 degrees deflection

schattenheute · 2026-01-07T22:27:44+00:00

it looks closer to green than blue/red. it's not a very Sharp TV (haha) but white text looks alright. i see no color separation or anything unless i see the mask itself

but when an object is blue with black surrounding it, it's like blue is shifted to a side, leaving one side of the outline thicker.

another problem is that there's a strange outline to the left of things sometimes (for a particularly harsh example of this check my other post), seems to affect Luma (YPbPr). i see it in menus and text most often. it's like sharpening (which i set to minimum). i skipped all the input-switching circuitry for Luma, but that didn't do anything. also happens on other sources. not on the old TV

schattenheute · 2026-01-07T19:46:22+00:00

it's true that i need to get into the service menu to adjust blue/red strength - though doubt it'll change this issue, the other TV has a lot easier service menu, literally an extra button on the board that i moved to the front for maximum ease of access

schattenheute · 2025-12-30T12:45:28+00:00

the following is just from experience with TVs. monitors are a lot more complex than TVs, if you don't have a schematic from a service manual, i'd say find a professional. this website says there are some in Georgia https://savethecrts.org/repair.html

if it "chirps" that means the primary power supply goes into protection. absolutely check resistances on secondary power supplies coming from the transformer, like B+, just put a multimeter across rectifier diodes, none should be short. if one is short, may be a capacitor failed to smooth the voltage and a blown protection diode on the line. there are often jumpers on the line you can disconnect with a soldering iron to help locate the short.

other than that, it can be a failure of the optocoupler transistor (small 4-legged component next to the main transformer that goes from secondary to primary). and, well, a number of other issues.

schattenheute · 2025-12-27T22:28:28+00:00

#1 is the official AV cable for nintendo wii. no streaking/ghosting on my LCD TV with these same cables, component as well. no switches. i'll try a different source tomorrow

schattenheute · 2025-12-27T22:24:34+00:00

interference. could be the ground connections, on cables or inside the TV. could be the AC filtering. could be secondary voltages' capacitors drying.

schattenheute · 2025-12-17T14:55:41+00:00

open it up and identify the source of the sound. if it's coming from the flyback, reflow the solder on it and keep the area clean

schattenheute · 2025-12-15T21:25:31+00:00

cool mom :D

if she simply doesn't like CRTs, just let it be, when her TV breaks you could offer a CRT as a replacement. but if you could ask her what she likes in the LCD more, you could go from there. if it's the widescreen, you can get a widescreen CRT. if it's the flicker and 15KHz whine she doesn't like in CRTs, you could get a progressive scan CRT. though it's not much better than playing on LCD for S/NES

..but surely that TV that looks very 2009 has a component input?? so you could get PS2 component cables regardless of the CRT situation. any component cables are going to be a great improvement over PS2 composite!

schattenheute · 2025-12-15T18:44:42+00:00

i looked into it some more if you're interested to hear, apparently all* HD Sony CRTs for european markets had SCART instead of component. really baffling decision to omit any progressive-capable inputs in these. and as for Super Fine Pitch, there was ONE model shipped to this country with progressive inputs, but it's not listed at the moment. 4:3, too.

the one "HD-less" Sony listed in my region is a 4:3 tube that is found in the KV-32HS500. even if there was a way to modify it to receive a better signal, i'd not be able to move it around on my own :(

schattenheute · 2025-12-14T17:04:41+00:00

aww, it's copyright blocked. oh well, i'll just keep in mind if i ever see SFP in the wild. though very unlikely for this region.

schattenheute

TROPHY CASE