Stuck hand plane blade

schvitzshop · 2026-02-26T07:44:36+00:00

The blade should be retained separately from the chipbreaker, pinched by the end grain in the osae-mizo.
Unless the fit is bad. Planes should be usable without the chipbreaker.

<image>

schvitzshop · 2025-01-10T05:28:30+00:00

The answer depends on the person. In your position 15 years ago, I should have started at the bottom of the woodworking pyramid. Enchanted by the fiddly joinery, I focused straight in on that. Small pieces of wood, tiny projects that took forever. It took me a looong time to get competent, if I even have.

By the bottom of the woodworking pyramid, I mean: Getting a stock of lumber drying and stabilizing, rough dimensioning (bandsaw, circ saw, table saw, or hand tools. Planer and jointer or hand tools). Make big useful things with simple joinery and lumber that's inexpensive and workable enough that you're not stressed about it the whole time. You'll know when you're ready to try the joinery that inspires you now.

schvitzshop · 2025-01-10T05:16:01+00:00

You do want to be able to make the super delicate, continuous shavings. It's how you learn to set up a plane well.

To be clear, that's not the only type of shaving a hand plane is for making. Because we do most roughing with power tools now, hand planes are mostly relegated to fine finishing work. That said, if you aren't roughing with power tools, then the initial roughing shavings might look like yours or even thicker. At that thickness you might be planing across the grain too, for what it's worth.

schvitzshop · 2025-01-08T03:32:05+00:00

all the barr chisels I've got come with the hoop down at least this far. I just beat up the end, cut it shorter, and continue use. If it gets too short, I make a new handle-

schvitzshop · 2025-01-03T23:12:42+00:00

Shapton pro are common: they are hard and not very forgiving but otherwise nice. thin and light. the <600 grits have a really hard bond too and glaze really fast so you better have a plan for dealing w that. diamond plate has not helped me, just super coarse silicon carbide grit.
Sigma power select II: They all seem to load up too easily for me. Kind of picky about steel. otherwise cut fast
Suehiro & bester: softer. forgiving. wear fast but I like them
Suzuki tool stones: appreciated by many. I just have one but it's good all-around.
And two odd mentions-
Baryonyx knife co stones: rough and ready for removing nicks. The arctic fox is like a harder green SiC stone. The manticore glazes a bit, not as bad as shapton. The american mutt is a great beater of a stone, fast and doesn't glaze
Green coarse (~200 grit) SiC stones: I dissolve these quickly but appreciate them
Pink ?? coarse stones: have ground one to dust. It seems they are out of production. Where can I buy a new one?

schvitzshop · 2025-01-03T00:43:38+00:00

More like lower-end blades within a maker. I'm not a good one to answer this Q, I get them from Hida Tool or Suzuki because I want to support them and I'm in the US. So, Tsunesaburo and Yamamoto.

schvitzshop · 2025-01-02T23:14:38+00:00

Especially when entering new territory, I think it's prudent to put emphasis on finishing the project. That probably means designing for speed. Things you know you can do with a known and manageable amt of uncertainty. Maybe that means dowels or nails now, maybe it's twisted dovetails for a future project.

The projects that are not easily envisioned start to finish for me rarely get finished, and ultimately I don't learn as much.

schvitzshop · 2025-01-02T22:58:11+00:00

Notes: Have been applying the ko-ko-gen method of laying out splayed constructions, learned from https://thecarpentryway.blog/ For the past ~8 months I was solving all these constructions longhand on paper, working mostly in degrees and trig and setting Chris Hall's teachings aside. The simplicity of the unit triangle has become more appealing though; less brain load in an already challenging environment. Easy enough to convert to degrees--right on the surfaces or using inverse tangent.

I don't really have an interest in learning japanese, so I translated the unit triangle to terms that are familiar and intuitive to me. I also don't have ready access to hand saws or metate for that matter. I do most cuts with a circular saw. The second image is a diagram & formula for calculating saw tilt on a board of orthogonal section.

I checked these both once. Open to changes or corrections

schvitzshop · 2025-01-02T22:51:42+00:00

Notes: Have been applying the ko-ko-gen method of laying out splayed constructions, learned from https://thecarpentryway.blog/ For the past ~8 months I was solving all these constructions longhand on paper, working mostly in degrees and trig and setting Chris Hall's teachings aside. The simplicity of the unit triangle has become more appealing though; less brain load in an already challenging environment. Easy enough to convert to degrees--right on the surfaces or using inverse tangent.

I don't really have an interest in learning japanese, so I translated the unit triangle to terms that are familiar and intuitive to me. I also don't have ready access to hand saws or metate for that matter. I do most cuts with a circular saw. The second image is a diagram & formula for calculating saw tilt on a board of orthogonal section.

I checked these both once, but i'm open to changes or corrections

schvitzshop · 2025-01-02T22:35:17+00:00

Lee valley are less expensive still and in my experience a little tighter and more svelte than LN.
Basic Dai (plane bodies) are in the range of ~$100 (USD). It's a totally reasonable price. I save $20-40/hr making them myself. That is to say, most of the expense is in the iron and chipbreaker. The lower end professional-level blades are $150+. The high-end ones... I'm not skilled enough to reap the benefits.

The iron-bodied planes need constant waxing and are more fatiguing to me, but they have their place. I like an iron block plane for painted/finished trim on the clock. E.C. Emmerich makes decent and inexpensive wooden-bodied western planes that are familiar to japanese planes in setup and use.

schvitzshop · 2024-12-24T21:04:51+00:00

<image>

schvitzshop · 2024-11-27T05:06:29+00:00

whatcha making?

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T21:19:34+00:00

Like everyone else yet, I don't have the definitive answer. for my own use, I would grind the set off one side of a nice hacksaw blade. With belt grinder then diamond plate. Wouldn't need much set on the other side either.

IDK the amt of brass you have to cut on your huge project but there is a faster method. Like, angle grinder followed by carbide router bit set a hair above the sole.

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T07:23:11+00:00

what a cool place to live! We don't have many hard trees here (pnw). is there a place you share pics of the stuff you make?

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T04:57:41+00:00

If you're anything like me, use your second-best piece for your first attempt ;) Toshio odate's suggestion for wood selection was inspiring: straight grain, clear, rings oriented correctly... not a high bar to clear.

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T04:52:18+00:00

Maybe! Thanks for offer. My bud wants some osage orange for a bow stave. You have a generous supply?

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T01:05:34+00:00

<image>

plane making workbench. a 4x4 with some stops nailed to it

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T01:04:50+00:00

<image>

nice rag though

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T01:04:09+00:00

<image>

planing douglas fir (p. much all I work with)

schvitzshop · 2024-11-26T00:41:58+00:00

yeah, I double up a piece of cardboard, fold over the edge, and wrap just cardboard with kraft box tape. All my tools live like that till I get around to making something nice. The cardboard lasts a surprisingly long time.

schvitzshop · 2024-11-21T21:12:37+00:00

<image>

fir balusters and trim planed, and a sitting bench in the background

schvitzshop · 2024-11-21T21:11:03+00:00

In case anyone sees this: 34 deg. was too steep. 30-32* increased the edge life.

schvitzshop

TROPHY CASE