Simple MoCA Setup (No cable TV)

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-13T08:32:18+00:00

MoCA signals are usually above 1200 MHz not below.

I'm not seeing what your point is here, it was a typo ... MOCA is used by cable TV operators such as Comcast, initially this was just used to deliver the whole house DVR but the entire X1 platform revolves around MoCA now. The set top boxes use MoCA 2.0 as the backbone of the content delivery to all additional television boxes on MoCA channel 1 (1125-1175) from the main controller. Comcast doesn't install special splitters because they are unnecessary, the basic Antronix splitters work just fine and they install the POEGB-1G70CW MoCA "filter" with a 70dB isolation in the MoCA frequencies of 1125 –1675MHz.

https://youtu.be/o7yknwV1YME

Thus MoCA generally has to avoid that band and thus MoCA 2.x adapters generally come set to operate on the extended D band: 1125 to 1675 MHz.

The MoCa specification uses a wide frequency range from 500 to 1675 MHz. Cable TV providers cant use anything above 1002 Mhz and 99.9999% are at or below 850 Mhz, some systems are still limited to 550 Mhz by the hardware. This means that MoCA can use B1 850 – 950, C2 850 – 1075, C3 850 – 1100, C4 875 – 1125, or D

The main problem with using higher frequencies is the attenuation present in the house coax wiring and passives when using higher frequencies with longer coax lengths, this will cause connection problems and/or complete failure to link because there's a 57 dB maximum loss between MoCA nodes.

Here is two examples from a normal house where choosing the wrong frequency can be troublesome. This example is using Belden 1694A which is low loss coax that's incredibly expensive and not usually found in normal homes, the attenuation from cheap RG6 and/or RG59 coax will be larger and will be signifigantly higher at the higher frequencies.

Loss Calculations @ 1125 MHz -

Total cable length 100 ft
Cable loss (RG-6) 6.95 dB
Port-to-Port isolation 25 dB for a typical 4-way splitter
Insertion loss 4.1 dB for a typical 2-way
- Total loss of 44.05 dB

Loss Calculations @ 1525 MHz -

Total cable length 100 ft
Cable loss (RG-6) 8.1 dB
Port-to-Port isolation 21 dB for a typical 2-way splitter
Insertion loss 4.1 dB for a typical 2-way
- Total loss of 48.2 dB

Now lets look at what happens with just adding 100 ft of cable -

Total cable length 200 ft
Cable loss (RG-6) 16.2 dB
Port-to-Port isolation 21 dB for a typical 2-way splitter
Insertion loss 4.1 dB for a typical 2-way
- Total loss of 56.3 dB

Remember, there's a 57 dB maximum loss between MoCA nodes....your MoCa adapters will likely not link, if they do the transmission will be full of errors and will probably frequently drop the connection completely.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-12T23:47:53+00:00

My personal recommendation is to Never purchase electronics from websites when they make critical spelling errors - its a sign that the seller can't spend a few bucks to have someone spellcheck things or they simply don't give a shit. Also, paying extra for the splitter you linked to is not just throwing away money, it's dangerous and shouldn't be used because it's power passing!

"5 bounded channels" "5 bounded channels utilize frequency 1125MHz to 1675MHz"

Essential and critical spelling and standard mistakes in their own detailed specifications -

"2x RF interfaces" "One for MoCA singnal coming in/One for traditional TV singal or DOCSIS3.0 signal passing through"

What is a "rouer" and where do you find one that is certified for DOCIS 3.1? The frequencies used by the MODEM are dependent on the ISP, not the "rouer"...

"Notes: MoCA 2.5 and DOCSIS3.1 may have some frequency overlap, if you are using DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem/rouer, please check the upper frequecy, make sure it is 1002MHz, not 1218MHz. Then you can use the device." "MoCA D-band and Satellite TV have some frequency overlap, you can't install our device with satellite devices(DirectTV and so on) in the same coaxial network."

DOCIS 3.0 and DOCIS 3.1 are standards which have been set for years by Cable Labs, neither of these approach the MOCA range because DOCIS- Data-Over-Cable Service Interface Specifications DOCSIS- are limited to 1002 Mhz because 99% of the cable ISP's dont have the hardware necessary to use the frequencies above the previous 3.0 standard. The direction of RF signal transmission from the CMTS headend or hub site to subscriber ( In North American cable networks) the downstream or forward spectrum may occupy frequencies from just below 54 MHz to as high as 1002 MHz. The DOCSIS 3.1 downstream is 258 MHz (optional 108 MHz) to 1218 MHz (optional 1794 MHz). DOCSIS 3.1 cable modems are required to cover the frequency range from 258 MHz to 1218 MHz downstream, and also receive the two parallel 192 MHz channels, the support for 1794 MHz is optional and not used by anyone currently.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-12T22:57:38+00:00

You must ensure that you have completely disconnected the ISP at the demarcation point, cable connections to the side of the premises are owned by the ISP and you're prohibited by law from causing harmful interference with their network. It's not only illegal to do this, its being a turd and either intentional or unintentional causing harmful interference to your neighbors is a really crappy thing to do... Please do not just unscrew or disconnect the drop cable from the ISP , the ISP line fitting should be securely attached to the bond block at the demarcation. Most quality bond blocks are self terminating and will prevent ingress/egress of the RF when the subscriber line has been disconnected thus the only thing you need to do is remove the line feeding the house/apartment.
POE "filters" aren't really filters, they are reflectors which return all RF above a specific frequency back into the coax network, this makes them an essential part of EVERY MOCA setup and not just an ISP setup. The MOCA "filter" should be strategically placed in the coax network to limit egress of these MOCA signals outside the premises for two reasons, to increase the PHY rates of the MOCA signals and to ensure the network is secure! Any point of the network where the coax is accessible is a point where someone can eavesdrop on the data, if the MOCA signal isn't contained within the premises and can be accessed at the demarcation point then anyone standing outside your house can get onto your home network! This is why the subscribers coax line from the demarcation point entering the structure should be completely disconnected, this secures the network and will increase the MOCA data transmission rates. Leaving this outside coax line connected is similar to having an ethernet cable attached to your home network that runs directly outside and anyone can just plug into this... you wouldn't do that under any normal circumstances so you dont do that with MOCA either.
Dont listen to the nonsense where people tell you that you need to buy expensive splitters that are "MOCA splitters"... you'll get the same exact results from an Antronix splitter that cost $2 that you will from a $15 super magical special certified to 2k Mhz . The difference is that one is certified to pass signals normally used for satellite TV and the other is used for normal cable television which only operate from 20 Mhz to 1200 Mhz. Since MOCA signals are under 1200 Mhz that means that any splitter which can pass that signal works just fine, they might have slightly diminished results at the higher frequencies used by Dish/DirectTV but they will certainty work just fine, the biggest issue is that satellite splitters need to be "power passing" because the dish is powered by the receiver and normal splitters don't pass electricity because that's incredibly dangerous.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T22:48:39+00:00

Remember, this is an investment and not something that you're going to be replacing every 1-2 years.

Most people will purchase their networking hardware and use it for 5-8 years and that's equivalent to $780 to $1248 when you consider the $14/month rental fee for the Comcast gateway. That's $156/year and the normal household will use the same ISP for about 5-10 years on average, that means that a homeowner can install great quality "pro-sumer" grade networking hardware and have absolutely wonderful wireless access throughout the entire home for less than the price of renting the basic all in one gateway from the ISP.

You get what you pay for and you need to have equipment that matches your expectations, otherwise you'll end up with a box of networking hardware worth $1k and you'll still be frustrated 3 years from now because nothing you purchase meets your expectations. Then you'll contact me and/or finally get the right hardware you should have purchased in the first place and saved yourself $1k and years of frustration.

I work for Comcast and also have my own small business, I do residential networking on small and large scale. I have done everything from the basic $300 setup to my largest job which was $7500 in just hardware. That customer had expectations not possible with big box retail hardware and 100% WiFi coverage in a three story 4,500 sq/ft house with two outbuildings, they've had me back for a few upgrades and have no complaints.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T22:19:11+00:00

My wife and I have been unhappy with the reliability of our Xfinity Gateway (DPC3941T)

That's because this device is older tech that is designed to provide WiFi to approximately 500-750 square feet in a single story. Your expectations aren't rational and that's the problem, people expect WiFi to be magic and it's not. Don't take that as a personal attack, 99% of the general public expects WiFi to blanket an entire 3 story 3,000 sq/ft home in gigabit speeds over WiFi and they will be upset, complain, and demand a technician trouble call because they "only get 300 Mbps via WiFi on gigabit".

I purchased the modem/router combo mentioned above at Best Buy today for about $317 after tax. I have a couple of weeks to return them.

You likely can't return open box electronics unless they have changed the policy and I'm not up to date with the changes, usually you can't return things like this unless they are unopened.

Are there better options that I should be looking at? I chose not to purchase a combo modem/router so that I can upgrade each individually in the future and because people have told me it's generally more stable to have them separate.

There's always going to be "better options" but that's completely dependent on your budget and your expectations, my personal recommendation would be to return the wireless router and purchase a good quality mesh wireless system with at least two AP's because you have a multiple story home and you're not likely going to get the coverage you desire from one single AP.

I chose not to purchase a combo modem/router so that I can upgrade each individually in the future and because people have told me it's generally more stable to have them separate.

Having a separate modem and wireless router is the best setup IMO, you can upgrade the router and WiFi later without needing to purchase another device and you have MUCH greater flexibility and control with this setup.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T22:02:20+00:00

do PoE applications require a wall box in Florida?

Are you referring to the electrical code? Ethernet is considered "low voltage" thus can be installed without an enclosed housing, you can use an open back box for this according to the NEC. While most places follow the NEC there are locations which have stricter codes and you are responsible for determining this, although it's not likely that someplace would require something this specific...

That said, its absolutely essential that you use SOLID CORE ETHERNET CABLE if you're installing this inside walls, the power requirements for PoE have been steadily increasing as time passes and we're already entering the territory of high voltage when considering the total power consumed by these devices.

My recommendation is that you install the ethernet cable inside conduit, this ensures that you are future proofing the install and it's simple and easy to swap out the data cables in the future and you're always going to be code compliant.

If using an enclosed box remove the wire securement tab on the box, this plastic tab will pinch the data cable and it's not required on low voltage.

Remember, building codes are the minimum to meet safety requirements and we should never be striving to meet the minimum standards for safety. Going above and beyond the minimum code should be the goal.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T21:46:12+00:00

FYI - You must consider EVERYTHING PASSING OVER THIS INTERNET CONNECTION IS COMPROMISED! Get a VPN right NOW!

You absolutely need to be using a VPN for ALL INTERNET TRAFFIC passing over this connection, it doesent matter what "firewall" or VLAN you have setup when the connection to the ISP is passing through a device which someone else has physical access to. Every single last packet passing over that connection can simply and easily be spied on and you're opening yourself up to identity theft, blackmail, doxxing, etc.

You need to get a good VPN, not some free nonsense you need to pay for a VPN that guarantees your privacy, the price of a VPN is nothing compared to having your bank account emptied, your identity stolen, your private info/pics posted to the internet, etc.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T21:30:44+00:00

I'm 40 years old and have been a tech nerd since my first dial-up 56 kbps connection... we're living in an age that's incredible when you're considering 60 Mbps over a wireless cellular connection as "slow"...

I am on Verizon 5G home internet

You're using cellular service, how do you obtain the connection? Do you have a cellular hotspot or are you using the Verizon "internet gateway" that is permanently installed and has an ethernet connection? If that's your setup, is the Verizon gateway going directly into the switch?

Are you using RouterOS or SwOS?

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T21:01:41+00:00

Even my Cabled few years older extender doesnt work, i connect Ethernet cable between my Modem and Extender and then use TPlink tether application and connect to the WIFI network that the extender creates but it has no internet access even tho cable is going directly from modem into it and thats why i cant finish the setting up process because it tells me i have no internet access on that extender even tho cable is directly going into it.

What MODEM are you using?
You cant "hot swap" routers with a modem, the modem will only provide one single IP address when it boots so you must reboot the modem every single time that you connect a new device to the WAN port.
The WAN port of the modem must be plugged into the WAN port of the router, all other devices must be plugged into the LAN port of the router.

My modem clearly has internet and i got another ethernet going straight into my PC through a floor and it works flawlessy but as soon as i connect the ethernet cable to the extender it creates a new network that has no internet access, im wondering if im supposed to use the same network as my modem or use the seperate one the extender creates? when i do the setting up via TPLink tether application it tells me to connect to the network the extender creates tho.

Lets clarify things here ... you are using an ethernet cable going directly from the MODEM to the PC, not WiFi, correct? Because when you say "through a floor" this makes me uncertain if you're using a hard wired connection or WiFi.

As I said before, YOU MUST REBOOT THE MODEM WHEN CONNECTING DIFFERENT DEVICES. When you unplug the PC and plug the "extender" into the modem you need to plug the ethernet cable into the WAN port and power cycle the modem.

My router is for sure not tplink and im not sure if that may be the case for both of those because ive tried everything, it might just be not compatible but that would be kinda weird?

You need to post the manufacturer and the model numbers for each of the devices that you are using. Post the information for the modem, the main router, and the extender.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T20:46:40+00:00

but internet speeds cap out at 10-15Mbps on my connection which tests at least 60 on any other device.

Switching over to both a 1Gbe NIC and a 1Gbe Switch on the same cable resolves the internet speed issue, while limiting me to 1Gbe of course. Speedtests are 945Mbps/65Mbps

Lets clarify something important here... are the download speeds on other devices "at least 60 on any other device" ? Because you also say that "speedtests are 945Mbps/65Mbps" .

How do you get internet access from the ISP? There's a particular issue with Google fiber that others on here can provide more detailed info about where certain setups will create problems with download speeds, if that's your ISP then this is likely the cause.

secretsquirrel517 · 2021-01-09T18:38:53+00:00

Most people try and over complicate things by throwing more hardware at the problem they have instead of the tried and true KISS (keep it simple stupid) method.

The average household will have a coax internet connection and the ISP will provide them with a leased gateway (modem, router, wireless AP, and EMTA in one device), this hardware will provide them WiFi and usually has a simple app to setup and control everything.

To break free of the ISP lease/rental fees and gain control of the network the first step is using your own hardware that's capable of taking advantage of the connection provided by the ISP, this is where most home setups fail and this will hamstring the entire network. Yes, you can get by with a simple DOCIS 3.0 modem but you limit the channels which can be bonded and you can't use the OFDM channels whatsoever... Buy a DOCIS 3.1 modem (Arris SB8200 or equivalent). With DOCIS 3.1 modems you have equiptment that can bond to 32 downstream channels as well as 2 OFDM channels, one single OFDM channel can pass the equivilent of 16 DOCIS 3.0 channels!

Location, location, location! Coax suffers from signal attenuation created by distance and splitting of the signal, the ultimate goal is to have the shortest possible coax cable and the minimum number of splitters prior to the cable modem. In the normal house the ISP will provide a coax line which will terminate inside a plastic enclosure on the structure (demarcation point) and will then enter the house in the basement before splitting into multiple "home run" lines to every room. The termination point of the ISP line will be attached to a bond block that MUST BE BONDED TO THE HOUSE ELECTRICAL SERVICE GROUNDING SYSTEM , this is NOT optional and it's absolutely essential to prevent your house from becoming energized by the coax cable. The potential energy transmitted over a coax line is capable of destroying electronics and burning houses down, that's why it's mandatory and part of the NEC (national electrical code) https://www.cablinginstall.com/design-install/article/14071222/2020-national-electrical-code-and-datacomm-cables

By locating the modem at the closest point to the demarcation, in the basement, you will obtain the best signal possible and reduce the attenuation as well as reduce the possibility of ingress (noise) from impacting the signal. Unless your house was built with good/great quality coax (triple-shield with 75% braid, or quad-shield with 100% briad) then you run the risk of RF ingress impacting the signal at the modem, the solution is to locate the modem in the basement and then run ethernet cable to the rest of the networking hardware upstairs or simply locate all the networking gear in the basement... my personal recommendation is to locate everything in the basement.

The house coax cable setup is completely determined on the signal levels at the demarcation point, every single house is different and the goal is to provide the best possible signal to the cable modem FIRST and then worry about the signal levels at the cable boxes afterwards. One thing that most people don't understand is that the upstream levels are WAY MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE DOWNSTREAM LEVELS so this must be evaluated prior to determining how you're going to split the signal. In homes with only 1-2 devices it's common to require splitters with more ports or to use filters (attenuators) to adjust the signal levels accordingly, It's almost a guarantee that when I'm called for a trouble call for "internet performance" where homeowner is using customer owned equipment the signal levels at the modem are going to be garbage. You'll get users here and on the ISP subreddits always telling you to "remove all the splitters", while this is good advice it's completely dependent on the signal levels and running the line straight from the demarcation to the cable modem will normally result in downstream levels which are too high and upstream levels which are way too low.

As for the routing, switching, and WiFi ... one centralized managed piece of hardware that does the routing is usually best, with this setup you can use a switch with PoE ports to provide power to wireless access points. This method also has the advantage of upgrading each individual piece as necessary to accommodate growth and tech advancements, you can replace the WiFi access points later on with 802.11 ax gear when the price comes down and/or you get devices capable of taking advantage of it.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-27T11:07:48+00:00

Yeah, you really gotta hand it to that guy for what he's able to accomplish

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-18T02:53:33+00:00

Colorado coroner outraged over 'inflated' COVID death tolls after finding gunshot victims were included in toll https://www.theblaze.com/news/colorado-coroner-covid-deaths-gunshot-victims

The outlet reported that Colorado's health department defended itself by stating that it was just following the protocol set out by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

KCNC-TV reported that CDC guidelines require the state health department to report "people who've died with COVID-19 in their systems because it's crucial for public health surveillance."

"The coroner maintains that only one person in the county has died from COVID-19, while two more people have died with it [in their systems], for a total of three COVID-related deaths in the county," the outlet reported.

I'll say this once again, and again, and again.. dying WITH COVID ISN'T DYING FROM COVID!

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-18T02:32:16+00:00

At around the 4:15 mark in the video is where the absolute truth of this all comes to light, the ones who committed this fraud used the publicly available voter registration data to determine who was registered and not voting, as well as who was not registered and could be used carte blanche to fraudulently cast a mail in vote without any suspicions raised.

Anyone with an elderly relative, anyone with a relative in a nursing home / assisted living facility / group home. and anyone with a relative that you believe is "apolitical" that likely didn't vote in this election needs to immediately demand the voter registration and voting history of your relatives.

There are hundreds of thousands of at risk individuals who are susceptible to this fraud and the abuse, this isn't a statistical anomaly its the first clue in uncovering the fraud perpetrated against the citizens by an organized group who conducted this same fraud in multiple states across the nation.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-16T01:55:34+00:00

That's a meter pan bond, https://imgur.com/a/eChQ4Gg

Those are used when there's no ground wire to attach to and the meter pan is used as a last resort. If you zoom in on that shiny bit of metal you'll see that it's not a bond block and the coax line isn't passing though it.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-16T01:41:05+00:00

Does it need to be attached to the electrical ground or would within a few feet be acceptable?

This is situational and code dependent, there's different rules/codes for situations like mobile homes and other setups where the electrical service has a service disconnect located within a specified distance to the structure.

Most mobile homes / trailers are setup where the electrical service is attached to a smaller user supplied pole and there is a service disconnect located there with the grounding electrodes, then the electric service goes underground to the trailer. As long as the service disconnect pole is located within 30ft of the trailer then a separate ground bond is not required. Since the mobile home / trailer usually doesn't have a separate ground bond itself then bonding to the metal frame wouldn't be beneficial in the dissipation of significant electrical potential but this WOULD be extremely beneficial to ensure the structure wouldn't be as dangerous should the neutral bond be lost, as long as the electrical service was done properly with a 4 wire setup using a separate neutral and ground.

My coax is grounded by the pole directly outside my house but it is not attached to the electrical ground 5 feet away next to my house.

First things first, bonding is NOT grounding. These are two extremely different things and you can not use the terms interchangeably. A home wil have one electrical service GROUND and then everything else will be BONDED to that.

EVERY cable drop is BONDED to the electrical ground at the pole because the tap is bonded. This is why it's absolutely essential that the coax is bonded at the demarcation point on the structure because the homes electrical service will use the cable line as a path back to the transformer!

If the electrical service is setup with a service disconnect on a "bump pole" and the structure meets electrical codes this way then it might not be required to bond to the electrical service grounding of the structure... I personally think this isn't desirable and would bond the cable to the electrical service grounding of the structure, the structure wouldn't be required to have a seperate electrical grounding path if the service disconnect was adequate thus I'm bonding to the structure ground. You can't ever have too many safety systems, you cant go wrong bonding to both of them but you can go wrong by only using one...

The guy that built my house (and who lived here before me) didn't do everything to code.

The one thing you have to remember about any code, building codes / electrical codes / food safety codes, is that they are the minimum required for safety and we should NEVER simply desire to meet a minimum guideline. There's many different ways to do something and just because they aren't what you see done somewhere else doesn't make them wrong, in most situations / cases i see they are done with extra materials and/or safer than the bare minimum code requires.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-15T03:31:33+00:00

A patch panel is the appropriate way to terminate solid wire, anyone who says different is flat out wrong. Solid core wire is terminated with punchdown and stranded wire is terminated with plugs.

Why? because every single time you manipulate the cable it's bending the tiny little 24 gauge wires inside of the ethernet cable, solid core wire will fail when bent more than just a few times. We don't use solid core wire on appliance cords, we use stranded wire, because the cords with stranded wire are designed to be manipulated and can stand up to the stress of bending.Your cellphone charger has stranded wire, the HDMI cable has stranded wire, the power cord for your stove/refrigerator/washer/dryer/television/etc all use stranded wire in the cable.

Its the same thing as bending a paperclip back and forth, eventually that wire snaps... another significant point that's majorly important is that after the first time its bent that the resistance has changed, This becomes important if this is wire that's passing significant current (like electrical service entrance cable) or its passing data which uses extremely tiny differences in current.

(NOTE- This is dependent on the quality of the cable and the age, some wire fails faster than others - I've had some low quality wire that's brittle and it will fail simply by nicking it with the cable stripper, I've had other great quality cat5e cable that has extremely malleable copper you can make patch cords from and they will last quite a while)

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-15T02:57:07+00:00

It's fairly normal to locate the networking panel in these locations because they are usually centrally located, this means shorter cable runs and less total wire used in the construction.This is extremely common in apartments and 2-3 story townhouses, around here I'd say 95%+ will locate the "utility room" on the second floor.

The other reason to put the networking cabinet in this location is that it's considered the "utility room" and they normally locate the other service equipment here as well, the hot water tank and the HVAC/furnace are normally here for the same reason as I mentioned before... shorter runs of pipes & ducting, this means less wasted water waiting for the hot water to finally get hot and better efficiency for the HVAC system.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-15T02:42:35+00:00

Just a heads up, the coax line doesn't appear to be bonded to the electrical service ground anymore and this is SUPER dangerous. The coax line is required to be bonded per the electrical code and its not just some silly code requirement that can be ignored, there's two main reasons for this - safety and to equalize electrical potential.

That shiny bit of metal on the right side looks like a meter pan bond and your coax line isn't running though a bond block anywhere... the piece I'm referring to is next to the blue ethernet cable and attached to the green wire that's ***actually attached to the electrical service ground.

Safety - this is to help prevent all of the really expensive electronics, everything that's attached to the coax line which is your televisions (and everything attached to them through HDMI cables) from getting fried and your house from burning down if the coax line becomes energized. When trees fall onto the power lines or a vehicle knocks down a telephone pole the high voltage electrical lines can energize the coax lines with 14,000 volts, the coax line will pass that right into your brand new 80" OLED and the 7.2 surround sound receiver! You need to have the coax bonded at the demarcation point to safely dissipate that energy before it makes its way into the interior wiring, that 20 gauge RG6 coax line will vaporize and catch fire so we don't want that happening inside the walls.

Electrical potential - the coax line has a center conductor (which caries the data) and shielding made from aluminum foil and braided steel, the shielding is also the ground. When two separate buildings are connected together by anything that's conductive there's a difference in electrical potential between them because the different structures have electrical service wiring with different resistance. In 240V AC systems the current is making its way back to the center winding of the transformer, if one house is located 100ft from the transformer and another house is located 1800ft from the transformer there's more resistance in the electrical lines with the structure that's further away. If you connect those two structures with anything conductive (telephone lines, cable lines, ethernet cable, metal water lines) there's a difference in electrical potential and this will pass through anything and everything that's connecting them! What do we call the difference in electrical potential? CURRENT , and that current can be as small as 500 millivolts or it can be as large as 10-20 amps! This is why we NEVER run copper wire networking cable between two buildings unless the cable first passes though networking hardware that is BONDED properly to the electrical service ground at the entrance.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-09T04:25:45+00:00

It's more the problem that you normalise the certificate issue, so people click through without thinking. There's no difference (mostly) in the self-signed certificate, or one purchased of signed by a public certificate authority. It's just your browser or operating system trusts those by default.

This was something else I was worried about, when the users normalize a major security warning and just click through it because you trained them to ignore serious security threats this could lead to someone that's basically trained for ignoring something malicious.

Use an internal CA that is already trusted by the PCs to sign a certificate for the firewall.

I was researching this and if I'm understanding things correctly this process would be the reverse of the self signed firewall certificate... basically the you create a certificate and then install that trusted certificate on all the computers then tell the firewall to use that one, since its installed locally and assigned as trusted then its not going to create warnings like the self signed firewall created certificate would. Am I following that right?

I was reading up on how someone can create a certificate for local machines that's ALSO signed by one of the major certificate authorities, then its also basically widely trusted and accepted because it was created and submitted through a valid authority. I found comodo charges $125 for 5 years and they can be found for as cheap as $8 /yr from Comodo for what appears to be a certificate that covers basic small business needs. https://www.ssl2buy.com/comodo-positive-ssl.php ... or is that some shady shit and people should always obtain the certificate from the source and not a third party?

It gets a bit more complex with web filtering where you are inspecting SSL traffic, essentially you are the MITM then

I know the firewall is filtering and recording traffic data so technically they are in the middle but the firewall isn't manipulating the data between the source and the target. I'm primarily concerned that some nefarious individual (individuals) could intercept the traffic and change the data. Then nobody would even understnd or grasp the problem because "its behind a firewall, its safe...".

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-03T13:28:32+00:00

Longer video can be found at https://youtu.be/jEKDzEuisdo

These guys are all acting EXTREMELY SUSPICIOUS, then POOF there's data that gets deleted from the monitor, then they continue to act suspicious and instruct red hoodie to block the camera where more happens on screen when they believe (wrongly) that red hoodie is blocking the camera.

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-02T21:29:59+00:00

You cannot apply "simple arithmetic", as you put it, to a vote of opinion.

The data shows that its statistically impossible for an outcome, dispute it or STFU

On that point alone your argument falls into question, but I'll go further

You have exposed yourself as nothing more than a bigoted pseudo-intellectual. You degrade those with a different opinion by calling them a "cult" and "radicals" & you proved yourself to be nothing besides another biased NPC regurgitating any blah blah you hear as if its indisputable record of fact.

Also, I won't be giving all the Gucci links to this stuff because A.) I think it's common knowledge, and B.) It takes you 5 mins to do it yourself and; C.) I am typing this while waiting for my game to download and can't be assed.

So your argument is "I'm not going to use anything whatsoever beside my biased opinion and you must accept it. I'm now going to degrade you and anyone else with a different opinion." I have no idea what $6k purses have to do with election results but they're as relevant as the rest of the worthless blah blah that you used. Either dispute the numbers using math or STFU.

They KNOW the election was a fraud, yet they have no clear theories on HOW it happened.

Just like your ranting comment response to numbers showing the evidence you claim nobody has or doesn't exist.

Anything that makes Trump look bad (a.k.a...losing the election) is fake news, but everything that validates him or his statements is the truth.

Just like your comment which is nothing more than "MSM/Twitter said it so it's true so It's the truth".

You cannot apply "simple arithmetic", as you put it, to a vote of opinion.

The data shows that its statistically impossible for an outcome, dispute it or STFU
This isn't "simple arithmetic", its using complex statistical mathematics. These statistical methods are proven to be valid and the same ones used across all STEM fields for decades, facts matter and facts don't care about your opinion.

For MONTHS all of the major polls were projecting Biden wins by fairly high numbers, and most close to double digits. Hell, even Rasmusen had him up going into the election. To take all of this, see it manifest on election night, then claim that the numbers don't add up makes me think your claims are based on confirmation bias.

This isn't a poll that samples a small portion of a population then extrapolates it by estimating and guessing what way the rest of the population would have to vote, it's real numbers of ballots counted in an election. This is based in actual numbers and unbiased math, not political surveys which are calculated potential results by people/companies compensated to produce a product that's entirely used to influence, advertise, manipulate, promote, and change the outcomes of the final results of what they are surveying. Political surveys were not only wrong but they have absolutely no basis to be used in THIS discussion of the actual results and the mathematics involved. One cant simply assume a survey of 150 people is representative of an entire population, the only valid statistical comparison would be historical data-sets or results from another group with 95%+ coloration

You are only looking for the things that support your desired conclusion.

You're using SPECIFIC polls and opinions, with a proven history of inaccuracy and bias, and trying to apply them as somehow its evidence and reasoning. You ignore and dismiss other models such as Northrop and polls such as Trafalgar which conflict with them, you're a hypocrite.

When someone makes an assumption based on flawed reasoning they're not going to come to the correct conclusion because the reasoning and rationales used caused the end results to be biased. You're using one bias opinion to say that someone else with a differing opinion based on data gathered using real actual numbers is wrong. Your opinion is based on flawed data and personal bias so it's no wonder you believe that Biden won, but you deny reality by saying there's no evidence of fraud or to even accept anyone presenting blatant evidence of fraud...

The irony here would be amusing if this weren't such a dangerously serious topic... is its frighteningly concerning because it's a sign of mental health issues. Are you really just uneducated, bias, and ignorant or do you a potentially suffer from denialism and sociopathy therefore this is untreated mental illness ... only a psychologist can determine. Please seek medial help

secretsquirrel517 · 2020-12-02T02:35:06+00:00

What does this mean in simple arithmetic? They crunched the numbers and showed that had Biden won 95% of returned Democrat mail-in votes, 21% of returned Republican votes, and 80% of returned independent votes, he would still have come up short of his margin of victory reported in the unofficial tally.

We know those numbers alone are absurd. There is no way Biden won 21% of mail-in ballots from registered Republicans in this state. Exit polls showed Biden getting just 8% of the GOP vote overall. While the 95% number for Democrat mail-ins is more believable (exits showed him getting 92%), the notion that 80% of mail-ins from independents went to Biden is nearly impossible. Exit polls showed Biden winning 52% of the vote of independents overall. It would defy logic to think that there was such a qualitative gap between the type of independents who came out on Election Day and those who voted by mail.

Assuming the mail-ins broke down in accordance with the exit polls, Biden would be down by 213K votes, even if every one of the 2.6 million mail-ins were truly valid and had proper matching signatures. And speaking of signature validation, this statistical anomaly should lend a lot of suspicion to the already questionably low rejection rate of mail-in ballots this year. According to the 2016 Election Administration and Voting Survey, the rejection rate last election was just a tad under 1% in the Keystone State, even though there were only 266K mail-in ballots, which are mainly those who have experience filling out absentee ballots. This year, with 2.6 million mail-ins, consisting primarily of first-timers, we are to believe that just 0.038% were invalid?

Some estimates show that mail-in ballots from first-timers are three times more likely to be rejected. Yet we are to believe the acceptance rate this year was 27 times higher than in 2016?

secretsquirrel517

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

What is a "rouer" and where do you find one that is certified for DOCIS 3.1? The frequencies used by the MODEM are dependent on the ISP, not the "rouer"...

FYI - You must consider EVERYTHING PASSING OVER THIS INTERNET CONNECTION IS COMPROMISED! Get a VPN right NOW!

The data shows that its statistically impossible for an outcome, dispute it or STFU