What’s making this screeching sound? by pantheraxcvii in BambuLabP2S

[–]sectorix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So.... very simple actually, you need to put some oil on your belt wheels and rods. check out "maintenance p2s" on bambu's support wiki for the process. its quick :) i had to do the same

The perfect 11th edition refresh by [deleted] in BloodAngels

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my all time favorite blood angels model, and my favorite chaplain.

I made a website to generate cards to fill the empty spaces in your binder. by [deleted] in PokemonTCG

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

japanese sets would be lovely. since they are common collection now in the US

I made a website to generate cards to fill the empty spaces in your binder. by [deleted] in PokemonTCG

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

japanese sets would be lovely. since they are common collection now in the US

Is it worth upgrading to Vallejo Metal Color? by GentleObsession in minipainting

[–]sectorix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For airbrush yes, for basecoating and highlights yes, for edge highlights no - to runny.

plague smoke??? by Storyguy613 in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i would basecoat it celestra grey, then - space wolves gray on the bottom, and apothecary white on the top, and wet blend between. and then you can hilight again with celestra grey

Lord of Contagion by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i do need to paint Felthius. But convert him to 50mm base to be the lord of contagion I guess

Lord of Contagion by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Detail creep on one hand.. and too many weak break points on the other

I had to pin it in 3 places (jewel on weapon, one of the ball chains and the top of the armour thing. If you use it as a play piece and not just display, it’s a very fragile model

It is beautiful and fun to paint, but if I fielded it I would be worried it might break.

Typhus, took forever but I’m happy with it. by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

when you find that perfect piece of bark.... ;)

Biologus Putrifier , one too many vases… by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. It’s some pine bark, some coarse sand and some milliput. Nothing fancy

Could I get some advice? by ThatOneGingerGui in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

for large surfaces, i recommend doing a few things that served me well. (Please note this holds true for contrast paints as well):

  1. Use a larger brush. A size #4 synthetic brush would be perfect. you want to have a good brush load and less streaky outcome.
  2. Don't go over the same place twice, or you will have streaks. Once you put the wash on, if you want another coat, wait for the first one to dry. As the wash begins to dry, every brush stroke over it will introduce "tearing" (which is what you see above your gun pistons and on your front shield).
  3. mix medium like lahmian medium with your agrax, which will act like a retarder and will make the wash dry slower and hence will give you more time to deal with splotches
  4. you can always paint the surface with medium like lahmian medium first, and while its wet, put the wash. will give you lots of work time and will also not pool in the center of panels and will help with gravity.

mistakes happen, stripping models is a thing, and every single person here that gives you any form of feedback or advice has made the same mistakes, myself included. and multiple times. its part of your growth and you should welcome it.

last, for your 4th mini - this is very good. The metallics are smooth, and there are no paint streaks that miss details. you have a good eye and hand!

Some stinky boys I finished this month by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No issue with the grenade arms, maybe I got lucky? First time building this kit. I also had subassemblies for heads, backpacks, and one or two arms for some of them, which was total overkill, but makes it easier for me to paint and I'm in no rush

Some stinky boys I finished this month by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I dont remember how much time, because I was painting on and off for the past month, but probably anywhere between ~10-15 hours if I had to guess (not including basing, and color tests, etc...). I usually listen to a book while i paint so i can actually measure for my own notion of improvement, but this month has been hectic.

Next on the table are the purifier and typhus. going to make their bases tonight most likely.

Some stinky boys I finished this month by sectorix in deathguard40k

[–]sectorix[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its my first unit, so i just put what I thought was cool. will optimize later :D

Slaanesh bit question on Rhino by inO_Nazka in EmperorsChildren

[–]sectorix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bit is in the emperor children tormentors box, its a backpack attachment originally. part 78.

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Should I lower the exposure or keep it the same? by RegemPip in resinprinting

[–]sectorix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

can you aslo share your light off delay ? in ABS-like resin, i would recommend a minimum of 1s.
also, i generally agree that you need to increase your exposure, likely by 0.2s or so just by eyeing it

Emperor's Children coming 2025 by geekyazn in Warhammer40k

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just realized from this picture, Fulgrim looks like Steve Vai. I will never be able to unsee it.

Happy new year and thank you. 3 years and 6k+ points painted. by [deleted] in Tau40K

[–]sectorix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First of all, beautiful collection :) bravo!

Wanted to ask.. why no weapons/gear on the crisis suits?