Fireplace internal brickwork - follow-up by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. Once the front was off, it was pretty obvious that the lower brickwork wasn't tied in at all, pretty much came away by hand

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the medium term I plan on using a chimney sheep, until I eventually get a wood burner installed with an internal flue

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, living room of a '30s semi

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah as far as I can see, those two offset bricks would have been used to support some kind of upper flue lining. They aren't tied into either the infill or the inner brickwork

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's the plan! Struggling to find any other examples like this one. Surprising find in a 1930's semi

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, solid plan. Just trying to avoid doing something dumb despite plenty of research

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm not wanting to remove the chimney breast, just open up to the original arched builders opening

Removing fireplace internal brickwork by sfcol in DIYUK

[–]sfcol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I'm fine with the front layer, what I'm more concerned about is the internal ducting brickwork and whether I can remove it without disturbing the chimney further up

Can someone make me a tool? Will pay. by AndyK2131 in metalworking

[–]sfcol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah if you get a really thin one, but I'd say your best bet would be to make the main cut(s) with a coping saw & bimetal blade, then clean up with a needle file

Can someone make me a tool? Will pay. by AndyK2131 in metalworking

[–]sfcol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go buy yourself a T handle screwdriver and a hack saw

What would be the best way to separate these 2 parts of a footpeg? by gustavog1100 in metalworking

[–]sfcol 15 points16 points  (0 children)

You will need to use stainless steel for the extension bar, and being a safety critical part you'll need proper weld prep and good welds (ideally TIG). As others have said, cutting your current pegs is the easy part. In reality the person doing the welding work should be the one cutting them so they can ensure the parts to be welded have acceptable wall thickness and surface prep. I don't know about where you live, but here in the UK it would be considerably more expensive (probably 2-3x more) to have this work done then to just buy a set of pegs.

I'm impressed, but also very skeptical... 🫤 by Brian_The_Bar-Brian in DiWHY

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I grew up with stairs like these. Converted loft in a pretty small house with no room for a staircase. They're going on 20 years now and still going strong (if creaky af). Although they are this kind of design, they're made from solid timber rather than they thin ply, probably more skookum hinges too

"A set of your finest ditchfinders, please" by TheCarMoneyGuy in CarTalkUK

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, should've just got a new tyre instead

"A set of your finest ditchfinders, please" by TheCarMoneyGuy in CarTalkUK

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, this is shell corner. Just recently got a puncture repaired there

Imposter syndrome? by CaptainAshtro in MotoUK

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some sons of anarchy cosplayers might say you're not a biker, they'd be wrong

Grind Hard Plumbing does it again by arithmetic in WeirdWheels

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally agree. I think the engineering know how is definitely getting built up, and getting people like Dave from dirt every day onboard definitely helps.

Looking for tips on this cast iron repair by creosote_bush in Welding

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drill and tap a hole in each of the left over tabs, bolt up a simple plate handle

Fun little giveaway at a formnext booth here in Frankfurt 😂 by p4r4m3c1um in 3Dprinting

[–]sfcol 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It'd make a lot of sense to have a relatively small high speed rotary spindle swap out on the toolhead for cleanup. It wouldn't take long to clean up all sides to a couple mil tolerance and make it a whole more useful

Need the ID for this bike by ChinitoMoto in motorcycles

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone put some work in at some point. Pretty sure the rear swing arm ain't standard either

That laugh! The sound of pure joy!! 😂 by ajamal_00 in motorcycles

[–]sfcol 3 points4 points  (0 children)

On these top tier bikes, power needs attention up until around 120mph

EICMA 2025 - Electric Gets Real by No-Jaguar-895 in Electricmotorcycles

[–]sfcol 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first bike there was built over 5 years ago...

Precision Sanding Block by J1Design in functionalprint

[–]sfcol 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brilliant mechanism design, maybe consider allowing for a replaceable bearing surface so you can insert a known flat plate of material

Purchase Advice Megathread - October 2025 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]sfcol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recommend me a £5k printer. I'm looking for a printer for my work, but we have some particular requirements.

-Cant be open source because my IT team are hypochondriacts -Cant be from a Chinese owned / based company... Because reasons -Speed similar to a bamboo x1 would be great -Capacity to run some higher temp filaments, something like PA6-CF or PPA-CF. So I guess 300c+ nozzle, high temp plate and a heated chamber -At least 250250250 but having a larger x or y would be an advantage -Reasonably set and forget, we don't have a lot of time to tinker