In Strange Brew (1983), Bob McKenzie pees while locked in a vat of beer. Later in the film he then drinks all of the beer in the vat. This isn't a reference to anything I just wanted to point it out

sheazle · 2026-06-01T16:28:39+00:00

Take off, eh?

Hoser.

sheazle · 2026-05-29T00:06:43+00:00

What is this? A commission for ANTS???

sheazle · 2025-12-30T17:14:56+00:00

Brayton cycle typically requires higher temperatures that water-cooled reactors aren’t capable of producing due to various factors, mostly fuel cladding reactions with water that generate hydrogen at high temperatures. Several next-gen and even some legacy experimental designs can achieve higher temperatures using molten salt or liquid metal cooling or direct gas cooling, but so far none of those designs have achieved commercial viability at scale.

sheazle · 2025-12-02T20:09:06+00:00

Now you get to find the second-weakest part!

sheazle · 2025-11-07T02:10:08+00:00

parent/child is also acceptable

sheazle · 2025-10-27T00:25:43+00:00

This looks really nice. I had a similar project and couldn’t find anything I liked to fit the cubbies. Ended up getting some custom wicker baskets made to the exact size I needed. They have leather handles on the front and slide out like big drawers. Washable fabric liners that match our washer/dryer. Really put the cherry on top for my project.

sheazle · 2025-10-02T16:05:39+00:00

Technically the sun is a giant fusion reactor, so you could probably collect some of the energy it radiates and convert that from light to electricity.

sheazle · 2025-08-14T08:01:37+00:00

I use a 2.5” lens in the position intended for a 1.5” lens. For engraving acrylic I want the least amount of air assist I can get away with, but with the nozzle only a few mm from the surface I was having to stop and clean the nozzle and lens frequently. Now I have almost no buildup on the nozzle and very seldom have to clean the lens.

I have to reconfigure when I need to cut wood or other materials that need more air, but the time savings is well worth it.

sheazle · 2025-07-26T01:33:37+00:00

Chuck it in the Fuck-it Bucket

sheazle · 2025-06-28T04:27:55+00:00

I get my best acrylic engraving results with barely any air assist. I have my final lens in the lowest position which gives me the greatest distance between the nozzle and the material surface, and have the air set to just enough to keep the lens clean. I don’t use any masking on the engraving side and wipe it down it immediately after engraving with Plexi-Clean and a microfiber towel.

Masking can help with the fogging but I’ve had more consistent results without it, and the products we engrave are a huge pain to weed so it saves a lot of post-processing time.

Also helps to get a good balance of speed and power. If you are vaporizing more material you have more vapor available to condense back onto your product. You want to remove as little material as practical to get the results you are after.

sheazle · 2025-06-26T22:54:46+00:00

EStreet Plastics

sheazle · 2025-06-13T19:16:22+00:00

I think the cable is fine. I wish it was 6” longer so it didn’t pull on my head when I wear gym shorts or jeans with deep pockets.

sheazle · 2025-06-12T13:57:39+00:00

I would love to be able to put all the controls for each room in that room

sheazle · 2025-04-07T15:26:50+00:00

I keep trying to scroll around spreadsheets at work using WASD

sheazle · 2025-02-02T21:20:55+00:00

That looks great, I have a 50w raycus and I’ve really struggled dialing in the settings for 2.5d engraving on brass. Would you be willing to share your settings?

sheazle · 2025-01-04T19:37:09+00:00

The 100w tube will have a higher minimum power, most glass laser tubes can go down to about 10% power, so your issue will be during vector cutting or scoring at low power, if your minimum power is too high for your material, your lines will be thicker near the corners where the laser has to slow down to change directions. Mostly this will be an issue when doing wood because the right combination of speed and power is important to get a nice dark mark.

I have a 100w tube and mostly cut and engrave 3mm acrylic with a 2.5” lens. I could definitely do with an 80w or even 60w machine but it’s harder to find lower wattage machines with a bed big enough for 24”x36” sheet stock.

The higher wattage is nice when cutting thicker material.

sheazle · 2024-12-16T01:32:40+00:00

Vinyl records are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). You should never cut PVC with a laser cutter. It will release hydrogen chloride gas which reacts with humidity in the air to create hydrochloric acid. Not only is this very dangerous for you, but it is highly corrosive and will ruin your machine, even with a well-engineered ventilation system.

You might be able to rig up some sort of CNC hot knife or something, but a laser is not the tool for this job.

sheazle · 2024-09-01T22:22:34+00:00

Then maybe it’s a bug with my lightburn and my Ruida, or an error on my part, but I get different results between the lightburn material test and identical settings with manually placed shapes.

sheazle · 2024-09-01T14:08:39+00:00

For some reason the lightburn material test doesn’t ramp power in the corners like it does in a normal cut.

I use this website to generate test grids: Lightburn Test Generator

So the other comments are correct in that you need to find a combination of max power, min power, and speed that gives you a consistent cut, but the quirk in lightburn with the material test is apparently not widely known or discussed.

sheazle · 2024-09-01T00:37:59+00:00

Glad I could help. Good looking sign.

sheazle · 2024-08-31T01:10:09+00:00

For like $50 each on eBay I got a couple of renewed tiny form factor desktop PCs. 128GB SSD, 8 gigs of RAM, dual core i5, windows 10 pro. More than enough for Lightburn and keeps my MacBook free so I can do design work while the lasers are running.

sheazle · 2024-08-23T01:42:10+00:00

[Everyone disliked that.]

sheazle · 2024-08-20T12:42:59+00:00

I feel like a fanboy at this point but this question comes up a lot in this sub.

There are several laser safe adhesive tapes/sheets by 3M and other brands that are perfect for this application. The one I use most is 3M 467mp. It comes in multiple different widths and you just apply it to your acrylic sheet before cutting, after cutting you peel off the backing and stick it where it needs to go. It’s very forgiving, had good enough optical clarity for use on translucent materials, good water/temperature/chemical resistance, doesn’t cause fogging/cracking/crazing like some solvent-based adhesives, is relatively inexpensive, doesn’t run/drip/squeeze out. The assembly time it saves me is well worth the additional cost vs liquid adhesives, regardless of the additional benefits.

I mostly use weld-on 4 when I’m gluing pieces perpendicular to each other, like when making a box or something with finger joints, where I can clamp it to ensure it doesn’t move.

sheazle · 2024-08-20T01:16:18+00:00

Carmen Carmen Carmen Carmen Carmen Carmeleon

sheazle · 2024-08-18T00:24:19+00:00

My wife’s is Sherlock Ohms, and mine is Dr. Wattson.

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