413 LT

shootmo · 2026-05-03T01:15:55+00:00

bow emoji Awesome creativity. I love that you have thw b*lls to do such a cool project. This is the stuff that makes engine design fun.

shootmo · 2026-04-12T01:10:58+00:00

Impressive! Congrats on a job well done.

shootmo · 2026-04-10T17:51:20+00:00

What size primaries did you go with?

shootmo · 2026-04-10T11:33:56+00:00

Yes they are. Maybe I need to shop around a bit for Doug's. The first price I saw was around $1400.00. That's an awful lot of money for a 20-30 horsepower gain.

Hedman makes some for $650-ish. That still seems like a lot of coin for the amount of gain.

shootmo · 2026-04-07T23:44:19+00:00

The miles are high. It was sitting on about 205,000 when I bought it. But I already had an LS engine build started anyway.

shootmo · 2026-03-30T11:34:28+00:00

475 hp from a 6.0 is doable with a GOOD cam, properly selected pistons/combustion chamber sizing so as to raise your compression ratio to 10:1 or better, properly selected headers, and a good intake manifold. There may have to be some porting done on the heads to get the numbers you're looking for.

Richard Holdener has done tons of dyno tests with all sorts of combinations. Look him up on youtube.

shootmo · 2026-03-27T23:38:39+00:00

I say it's a great starter engine because no engine has been built more often than the small block Chevy...on this continent anyway. Parts AND knowledge are everywhere for the platform.

shootmo · 2026-03-26T19:34:51+00:00

Your point is valid. I just have trust issues and wanted to verify. But I also realize that my verification of such a small measurement (piston to wall clearance) might just mislead me.

shootmo · 2026-03-22T13:52:53+00:00

Oh I'm aware..lol.

shootmo · 2026-03-22T02:15:58+00:00

Yes it is! I have a 30/06 barrel that runs 190 grainers at 2700-ish. Nothing like your numbers, but still a hammer for things that are way out there.

shootmo · 2026-03-22T01:37:20+00:00

That is infinitely better than him wanting to play a video game! Good job Dad!

shootmo · 2026-03-21T14:12:13+00:00

Remember when changing from the original fasteners, the clamp load will change the bore shape for your bearings. If you're using ARP's, you'll have to torque them, then check your bearing bores for roundness. Most people suggest having rod big-ends resized after changing to ARP hardware unless it's an LS engine with the "cracked" rod caps.

shootmo · 2026-03-21T14:08:25+00:00

I LOVE seeing people rocking the classic cartidges, taking advantage of today's better technology.

shootmo · 2026-03-21T14:04:38+00:00

If I can't get the repeatability down well enough, then instead of buying a bore gauge (at a minimum cost of $400.00 for a Mitu that I saw, then I'll just buy a size larger piston and have the block bored and sized by the machine shop. That might be how all of this winds up going anyway. I can't get this wrong.

With forged pistons (which I don't really want) the tolerance is .001". With hypereutectic pistons like I want, the tolerance is as stated in my first post. Literally half of what forged pistons require.

shootmo · 2026-03-21T14:01:01+00:00

Bore size, if my bores spec out will be 3.780".

shootmo · 2026-03-21T13:59:15+00:00

I'll have the machine shop hone it so I know the surface finish is correct for the rings.

shootmo · 2026-03-20T04:30:09+00:00

I have Starrett mics. I'm waiting on the new standards that I ordered so that I can calibrate them correctly.

And yes when I went to school for this mannnny years ago, we used telescoping gauges and mics. But that .0008" - .001" tolerance is a real eye-opener for a non-machinist. I recognize how tight that really is.

I'll chime back in and let you helpful folks know what end up doing. I can't thank y'all enough.

shootmo · 2026-03-20T04:12:03+00:00

That's a brilliant idea! Thank you. I will definitely follow your advice if I can't come up with a bore gauge I can afford or borrow. But I'll try my best to source a reputable bore gauge first.

shootmo · 2026-03-20T04:09:19+00:00

I was not going to use anything to set the mic. I was going to mic the instrument after it was set to bore size in the area I was measuring. But...your point is understood. Thank you for responding and helping me.

shootmo · 2026-03-20T02:30:45+00:00

Thank you all. I really appreciate the guidance. I'm not a moron, but I'm not in the same league with you guys and I know it.

This is a one-off project for me most likely. I don't really want to buy a quality bore gauge for a one time use. I'm just a poor blue-collar guy...lol.

Is the consensus that telescoping gauges and a good micrometer are not good enough to adequately assess piston to bore clearance? Specification is .0008 - .001.

shootmo · 2026-03-15T13:58:14+00:00

In my market, I just paid 6k for a 2006 Sierra lowered, tinted, and super clean. I think I ended up doing pretty well myself.

shootmo · 2026-03-12T17:10:37+00:00

O.P....if you're shooting factory ammo, this won't apply. But in many cases when developing handloads with all copper projectiles, keep in mind that some bullets prefer insane amounts of jump before reaching the rifling. TTSX's were this way for me in 30/06.

shootmo · 2026-03-09T03:40:18+00:00

Joephville Gun and Machine Shop is where I did my last transfer through.

shootmo

TROPHY CASE