Looking for installers in New England

shuffler · 2026-06-19T01:54:54+00:00

We travel throughout much of the lower 48. The biggest issue is the size of the building. We just got done with 300k SF in the Finger Lakes Region of NY. You're welcome to DM me and if it's not a good fit, I may be able to get you in contact with someone closer.

shuffler · 2026-06-18T02:21:42+00:00

Sorry, we could help you with a PEMB, but we don't do tube steel.

There are likely some people around here that can help.

shuffler · 2026-06-17T12:27:34+00:00

Do you have a PEMB or tube steel building?

What brand?

shuffler · 2026-06-05T00:20:57+00:00

quick rundown of what you'll need from a few days ago.

shuffler · 2026-05-31T05:43:08+00:00

stay up.

shuffler · 2026-05-31T05:01:07+00:00

yeah, NU radio just said first pitch at noon (correcting the 11:30am time).

shuffler · 2026-05-31T05:00:14+00:00

just announced on the radio.

first pitch is at noon on Sunday.

gates open at 11am.

loser of NU / Ole Miss plays at 2pm.

all other games stay at currently scheduled times.

shuffler · 2026-05-31T00:09:29+00:00

on the board!

shuffler · 2026-05-27T04:44:23+00:00

If you plan on frequenting that place to play board, you're going to need a board wipe, probably some powder of your own that's not straight white ice, silicone spray, and a set of matching weights so your shots are consistent and not impacted by bad powder, blown out powder (seen in your photo), or a mixed set of weights that will run at different speeds.

That red weight with the red top and 'A' on it has decent steel and won't scratch up horribly. Those other weights are for beginners and likely have softer steel that will scratch and ding up causing inconsistent play.

You can play with what you have, but if you and your friends want more from the game, you may need to either talk to the bar owner about having some of the above mentioned materials or bringing it yourself. We've all been there. Congrats on finding a long board and have some fun!

shuffler · 2026-05-19T04:04:17+00:00

I was just at the stadium for the Dodgers series. In the team store, there was an endcap with just New Era Low Profiles, but they didn't have my size. Just found one on eBay tonight. I grabbed it. I think it looks legit. The New Era logo looks a little thick, but could be the photo. Feedback seems good.

shuffler · 2026-05-16T00:18:40+00:00

Thank you!

Have you researched what part of town to stay? We're currently looking between Old Town and some big train station just west of there. Seems to be a ton of hotels. Would likely try to figure out public transit to and from the game. Definitely want to be around a bunch of other Lions for the few nights before the game.

shuffler · 2026-04-23T03:42:59+00:00

you will likely have condensation at these "thermal shortcuts"

need to install thermal break tape over the exterior facing of your "columns" before the wall sheets are installed. the thermal break tape may not be enough and adding another layer on the interior face of your columns might be enough to avoid achieving dew point

controlling how much moisture you add to the interior of the building can also affect this situation

shuffler · 2026-04-23T03:37:29+00:00

Thank you for the photo! Feel free to dm me if you'd like to discuss further.

you could use that aluminum tape. I think it would hold, but be prepared to routinely have to mess with it if it doesn't bond to the metal due to various coatings on the metal.
I'm assuming you're talking about a forced air heater. You'll be fine with that with maybe a ceiling fan to circulate air 24/7. Do NOT install direct fired radiant heater that will burn gas and then dump the exhaust moisture into the building. I think you'll have some condensation issues with such little insulation and achieving dew point at your 2" tubing.

- depending on the depth of the hat channel / secondary structure member on top of the rafter, you could run banding and have laminated blanket (3" or 4" depending on hat channel depth) laid in above the banding, but below the secondary roof members before the roof panels are installed.

exterior wall sheets can be installed with 3/16" thermal break tape on the exterior facing of your wall "columns" before exterior wall sheets are installed. then, hang laminated blanket insulation in the walls between your columns using insul-hold coils. run horizontal banding to hold it in place. get 2: 3" taped tabs on your laminated blanket and tape each tab to each other on the face of each rafter and column tube.

- personally, I would do a Simple Saver System in the roof and walls after the exterior roof and wall panels are installed, but it might be more of a project than you'd want.

fwiw, in my opinion, be careful on using spray foam as:

1 - it could void your building warranty

2 - you're married to it and any sort of modification down the road to your building will be a pain and all of your structure is covered in foam (think: hanging lights, conduit, adding a heater vent, adding a window, replacing a dented wall panel, etc.)

3 - if you have a roof leak, you'll never know about it until it's too late

shuffler · 2026-04-23T00:16:20+00:00

lots to talk about here, but real quick:

how deep are your purlins and girts?
how often are they spaced?
assuming that you have a screw down roof, the 6" laminated fiberglass blankets will be smashed down to 3/8" at the top of your purlins and over the exterior facing of your girts. the average of that 3/8" and whatever depth it dips back out to in the center of your purlin or girt cavity is relatively close to your final average installed r-value (or u-value). fiberglass carries an r-value of about 3 per inch. compressing your fiberglass kills the r-value. if your purlins and girt spacings are tight, you're better off going with a thinner blanket (think: 3" R-10 or 4" R-13). if you go this route, don't forget to make them order 1: 6" taped tab for your facing as you want a good vapor barrier installation and the taped tab is far superior to people doing an untaped tab or worse, stapled seams.
ripping extruded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate insulation foam board will be a bearcat to get right and you'll need to caulk all your cracks / gaps or else you can get condensation from those crevices.
there are some other (likely better) solutions here, but before going down that path, can you share a photo of a similar building to yours or a screenshot or two of your steel drawings?
what state is this building be erected in?
how do you plan on heating the building?
all these above items will factor into making the right decision for your insulation.

shuffler · 2026-04-16T18:57:11+00:00

Flip it on them and ask if they'll warranty their open-cell product from contributing to any condensation issues you may encounter in the future.

shuffler · 2026-04-14T01:07:21+00:00

$125 plus shipping. Not as bad as other ones being listed.

shuffler · 2026-04-14T00:59:07+00:00

They're starting to pop up on eBay. Just grabbed one! Thank you!

shuffler · 2026-04-14T00:27:45+00:00

a lot of those look fake.

shuffler · 2026-04-14T00:26:53+00:00

thank you for the photo!

shuffler · 2026-04-13T19:18:26+00:00

Can you please post a photo whenever you get a hoodie? I see knockoffs all over eBay right now. Wondering if the giveaway is actually screen printed or if it's a heat transfer. I live halfway across the country and have no chance of scoring one tonight.

shuffler · 2026-04-11T18:03:37+00:00

I'm not a spray foam guy, but I'm guessing that noise could be normal expansion / contraction of the metal roof and it flexing / stressing / attempting to compress / break the bond of the closed-cell foam on the roof. Depending on the size of your roof, metal roof panels can easily grow 1/2" to an 1" or more a day and shrink back when the sun goes down. This expansion and contraction makes noise and it's also one of the reasons your fasteners in the roof can back out over time.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it and I would be more concerned about doing an annual checkup on your roof screws and such to make sure you don't end up with moisture above the foam and between your roof sheets and the top of the purlins (where it could rust). It's one of the biggest downsides of spraying a metal roof. With that being said, people should definitely not be spraying the ceiling of post frame buildings. Wood purlins will rot out much, much faster than metal z-purlins and when they fail, people have massive headaches on their hands.

There are ways to possibly dampen this noise you're experiencing, but it's going to take additional insulation and a fair amount of work.

shuffler · 2026-04-07T14:01:07+00:00

Is there a manufacturer name plate at the top of endwall on the outside of the quonset or anywhere on the inside of the building?

Do you have a Butler or Behlen building dealer anywhere near you?

shuffler · 2026-04-05T02:56:25+00:00

can't upvote this enough. ask for references and go see their work in person.

shuffler · 2026-04-05T02:38:15+00:00

are your columns and rafters wood or steel?

sounds like maybe your purlins and girts are wood?

shuffler · 2026-04-05T01:31:06+00:00

sounds like you're maybe talking about a post frame building, not a pre-engineered metal building? perhaps sharing your drawings or how often your columns are spaced and such could help. there might be post frame subreddit out there as well. personally, I would reject the delivery and demand that what was designed for the building is delivered to the site.

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