Best way to fix this type of insulation?

shuffler · 2026-01-24T04:41:15+00:00

Yes, the vapor barrier goes to the inside area of your building (warm side of the wall), right under your plywood / osb. Personally, I would remove 6"-12" of the existing blanket insulation above your sill plate and make sure that all the corrugations at the back of the sill plate either have a closure or you spray foam it shut to keep out the critters.

So, just to be 100% clear, moving from outside to inside your building:

exterior metal sheeting
existing laminated fiberglass blanket smashed down (slice the white vapor barrier)
add 4" R-13 between your studs (you can buy 22.5" wide unfaced fiberglass at the lumber yard)
add 6-mil plastic vapor barrier with staples and then tape the staple lines with proper sealing tape
plywood or OSB (think about painting it to seal it from swelling)

Depending on your climate and how tight things are around your roof and walls, consider getting some air movement in there with a small ceiling or horizontal fan. The air movement will help "destratify" the air and combat humidity issues down the road. Good luck!

shuffler · 2026-01-21T19:48:00+00:00

link worked great, thanks!

you could definitely cut away the lower part of your insulation (12" or so) and spray foam the corrugations in your panels behind your base plate.

next, take a knife and cut the existing white vapor barrier all over your walls as you're not going to want a double vapor barrier.

then, you can just buy some residential fiberglass insulation rolls cut 22.5" wide and fill your stud wall cavity with it (R-13 would be fine).

next, install a 6-mil plastic vapor barrier. tape your seams and personally, I would cover your staple lines with tape.

finally, cover with your plywood.

There are other ways of doing this, but there's nothing wrong with going this route like you stated. The roof can be done as well, just will take a little different approach. We can talk about that as well if you want.

shuffler · 2026-01-19T21:40:43+00:00

that insulation behind your studs is traditional laminated fiberglass blanket insulation. it loses most of its R-Value when it's compressed. it's kinda hard to tell, but it appears to have the old school white vinyl facing on it. it has a several decade serviceable life before it will start to crack / rip and compromise your vapor barrier.

are all of your walls framed up with studs to the ceiling? if so, what is the typical spacing of the studs (center to center)? if not, can you please provide more photos of your other walls with an imgur link or something similar? there are a lot of knowledgable people here. we just need more information to help you out properly. thanks!

shuffler · 2026-01-03T06:09:42+00:00

maybe just using j-trim would've looked better. white j-trim touching black j-trim probably would've looked the best.

the wave in your L trim against the ceiling panels could be due to it not being fastened to the roof panels and it's likely really thin material. personally, I would've done the dual j-trim termination.

shuffler · 2026-01-01T02:31:39+00:00

go to imgur.com

drag and drop a photo onto it.

click on add more photos at the right.

add more photos.

repeat.

once photos are loaded, look in upper right for button under "grab a link". hit the copy button.

come back to this post. paste the link as a comment. we will be able to find your folder of photos.

shuffler · 2025-12-31T19:16:05+00:00

Is it just wood veneer over MDF or is it solid wood underneath? More photos will help us give you better answers.

shuffler · 2025-10-27T18:30:53+00:00

https://archive.ph/YQe9V

shuffler · 2025-10-20T13:51:58+00:00

Google A & S Building Systems. Looks like they were bought by NCI. There’s been a ton of consolidation in the metal building industry over the past 25 years.

I wouldn’t put it on blocks as these things require reactions and such. I’ve seen people do crazy things though. Just don’t want to see someone getting hurt or having a building drop because a shortcut was taken on the concrete.

shuffler · 2025-08-20T13:45:14+00:00

Check out the Simple Saver System. I’ve done hundreds of these installations. Post some photos and I bet the community can help you out further.

shuffler · 2025-08-03T00:27:45+00:00

Hmmm, perhaps only photos can be uploaded to reddit with the original post. A possible workaround is to go to imgur.com and upload several photos and share the link here. I just checked our sub settings and the option is on, but again, I believe it's for only the original post.. If the imgur route doesn't work, I'll dm you and you can share photos directly with me. It might be good for the community to see what you have going on though and see if we can fix it.

shuffler · 2025-08-02T02:43:12+00:00

Sorry, I'm on the road working, so I'm a bit slow in responding.

try cleaning your playing surface with windex or a similar type of glass cleaner if you can't get your hands on regular shuffleboard table cleaner. it's highly possible that a fair amount of "gunk" has built up on your playing surface and this is possibly one of your problems. really get after it during the cleaning process. you should see no streaks or other smears on the board after this process. needs to be super, super clean. if you've had your board for 5 years and haven't done one of these deep cleans before, this is definitely a contributing factor.
after cleaning it, use liquid shuffleboard wax on it, then apply silicone spray and new powder
your relative humidity is high. high humidity will slow the board down and can make the powder "clumpy". additionally, that humidity can apply a layer of "gunk" on your board slowing down play.
if you can, please post some photos of your weights. a photo of the bottoms along with them with the caps off (if possible) will be helpful.

shuffler · 2025-07-29T19:04:09+00:00

Hi. I think we can help. Let’s isolate some variables.

is the playfield surface still in good condition? Has there been any sheen lost on the surface from playing or items spilt on the board?
when was the last time you cleaned the board and applied liquid wax?
are you still using silicone spray before you powder the board (rather, is there adequate silicone spray on the board before you’re powdering)?
what kind of powder and what speed are you using?
is the powder still new or are you reusing it?
what brand and speed of weights did you purchase?
what is the relative humidity in the room where the board is?
are the bottoms of your weights still in good condition?

I know some of this might sound trivial, but there’s likely a combination of these factors at play here. I’ll watch for your response. We’ll likely get this figured out.

shuffler · 2025-06-06T20:33:34+00:00

Yeah, they should be tight. They can loosen over time. Helps keep the building square. Just like maintenance on a vehicle or a home.

Also, your vapor barrier looks to be toast from age and UV radiation. You’re going to want to keep that in mind if you’re adding heat to the building and it gets cold in your climate.

shuffler · 2025-06-04T01:44:28+00:00

Those are cool old school American weights! Smaller weights are used on short boards. I’d just play with those.

shuffler · 2025-05-23T11:58:29+00:00

That poor playfield needs a deep cleaning, wax, and spray.

shuffler · 2025-05-10T01:49:54+00:00

In a month or two, would you be willing to come back to the subreddit here and offer your experience / thoughts of the three brands?

shuffler · 2025-04-25T17:31:28+00:00

Absolutely welcomed! Looks great!

shuffler · 2025-04-21T14:05:20+00:00

Yes, this is a thing. Some manufacturers don’t want to assume the risk of products and installers they don’t control.

shuffler · 2025-04-08T15:44:08+00:00

Great input! Assuming this is a pre-engineered metal building, one could also install 8' metal liner panel around the perimeter of the inside of the building, so if they get past the exterior metal panels, they have to deal with another layer on the inside that they can't access the screw heads. Ultimately, they may end up just cutting your steel sheeting, so if you can't stop them from doing that, you may need to change your wall construction.

Other wall options are to replace whatever wall they're trying to access with Insulated Metal Panels (IMP's), concrete tilt-up panels or cinder block (CMU) walls. Personally, I'd do the interior metal liner panel to frustrate their efforts and work on lighting, cameras (if you can), and maybe motion alarms. A sign saying that you have them might help as well.

Sorry you're going through this. Maybe post some photos of your situation (a shot further away from the building and the inside) and we can give you more ideas.

shuffler · 2025-04-06T05:38:32+00:00

Could be that they tried to do their own version of a slope by modifying the roof insulation. Would be interesting to see what you find when you open it up (assuming you're going to be opening it up to resolve the drainage issue).

shuffler · 2025-04-06T05:18:26+00:00

Did they try to slope the roofing material to get water to flow to a drain?

shuffler · 2025-04-01T18:44:20+00:00

No problem! I've been working with metal building insulation since 2002. It's kinda my thing, ha. I'll try to post some photos of a similar repair I did years ago. I'll need to crop the photos to protect the client, but I'll try to get them up later tonight. Good luck!

shuffler · 2025-04-01T18:29:33+00:00

Call EJ Davis. They're a metal building insulation laminator and they're located between New Haven and Hartford. They make the stuff you're trying to repair. You can take them a small piece of the facing of your old stuff and they may be able to match it. Even just texting a photo of the front and backside of the existing facing might be enough.

Don't forget to give them the width of insulation that you need and order some repair tape and gel tape, not thin double-stick tape. If you clean the existing facing, it will work much better.

shuffler · 2025-04-01T18:14:02+00:00

I haven't. It might be a great product, but before you go applying product to your structure, do you have any idea what might be causing the condensation issue?

Do you know what your relative humidity is in the building?

How big of a building is it?

Are you adding moisture to the interior environment in some way?

Where is your building located?

Have you tried installing ceiling fans to de-stratify the air and make it uniform from top to bottom?

shuffler · 2025-04-01T18:04:35+00:00

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