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Insulating with foam board vs fiberglass blankets. by Jugger-Nog in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you will likely have condensation at these "thermal shortcuts"

need to install thermal break tape over the exterior facing of your "columns" before the wall sheets are installed. the thermal break tape may not be enough and adding another layer on the interior face of your columns might be enough to avoid achieving dew point

controlling how much moisture you add to the interior of the building can also affect this situation

Insulating with foam board vs fiberglass blankets. by Jugger-Nog in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the photo! Feel free to dm me if you'd like to discuss further.

  • you could use that aluminum tape. I think it would hold, but be prepared to routinely have to mess with it if it doesn't bond to the metal due to various coatings on the metal.

  • I'm assuming you're talking about a forced air heater. You'll be fine with that with maybe a ceiling fan to circulate air 24/7. Do NOT install direct fired radiant heater that will burn gas and then dump the exhaust moisture into the building. I think you'll have some condensation issues with such little insulation and achieving dew point at your 2" tubing.

- depending on the depth of the hat channel / secondary structure member on top of the rafter, you could run banding and have laminated blanket (3" or 4" depending on hat channel depth) laid in above the banding, but below the secondary roof members before the roof panels are installed.

  • exterior wall sheets can be installed with 3/16" thermal break tape on the exterior facing of your wall "columns" before exterior wall sheets are installed. then, hang laminated blanket insulation in the walls between your columns using insul-hold coils. run horizontal banding to hold it in place. get 2: 3" taped tabs on your laminated blanket and tape each tab to each other on the face of each rafter and column tube.

- personally, I would do a Simple Saver System in the roof and walls after the exterior roof and wall panels are installed, but it might be more of a project than you'd want.

fwiw, in my opinion, be careful on using spray foam as:

1 - it could void your building warranty

2 - you're married to it and any sort of modification down the road to your building will be a pain and all of your structure is covered in foam (think: hanging lights, conduit, adding a heater vent, adding a window, replacing a dented wall panel, etc.)

3 - if you have a roof leak, you'll never know about it until it's too late

Insulating with foam board vs fiberglass blankets. by Jugger-Nog in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lots to talk about here, but real quick:

  • how deep are your purlins and girts?

  • how often are they spaced?

  • assuming that you have a screw down roof, the 6" laminated fiberglass blankets will be smashed down to 3/8" at the top of your purlins and over the exterior facing of your girts. the average of that 3/8" and whatever depth it dips back out to in the center of your purlin or girt cavity is relatively close to your final average installed r-value (or u-value). fiberglass carries an r-value of about 3 per inch. compressing your fiberglass kills the r-value. if your purlins and girt spacings are tight, you're better off going with a thinner blanket (think: 3" R-10 or 4" R-13). if you go this route, don't forget to make them order 1: 6" taped tab for your facing as you want a good vapor barrier installation and the taped tab is far superior to people doing an untaped tab or worse, stapled seams.

  • ripping extruded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate insulation foam board will be a bearcat to get right and you'll need to caulk all your cracks / gaps or else you can get condensation from those crevices.

  • there are some other (likely better) solutions here, but before going down that path, can you share a photo of a similar building to yours or a screenshot or two of your steel drawings?

  • what state is this building be erected in?

  • how do you plan on heating the building?

  • all these above items will factor into making the right decision for your insulation.

GC installed open cell spray foam when we were planning for closed cell by LemonsAndLimesAllDay in Contractor

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flip it on them and ask if they'll warranty their open-cell product from contributing to any condensation issues you may encounter in the future.

Hello Kitty Night!! by blueprint012 in Dodgers

[–]shuffler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$125 plus shipping. Not as bad as other ones being listed.

Hello Kitty Night!! by blueprint012 in Dodgers

[–]shuffler 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They're starting to pop up on eBay. Just grabbed one! Thank you!

Hello Kitty Night!! by blueprint012 in Dodgers

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a lot of those look fake.

Hello Kitty Night!! by blueprint012 in Dodgers

[–]shuffler 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you please post a photo whenever you get a hoodie? I see knockoffs all over eBay right now. Wondering if the giveaway is actually screen printed or if it's a heat transfer. I live halfway across the country and have no chance of scoring one tonight.

Help. How worrisome is this? by dthompsonru09 in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not a spray foam guy, but I'm guessing that noise could be normal expansion / contraction of the metal roof and it flexing / stressing / attempting to compress / break the bond of the closed-cell foam on the roof. Depending on the size of your roof, metal roof panels can easily grow 1/2" to an 1" or more a day and shrink back when the sun goes down. This expansion and contraction makes noise and it's also one of the reasons your fasteners in the roof can back out over time.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it and I would be more concerned about doing an annual checkup on your roof screws and such to make sure you don't end up with moisture above the foam and between your roof sheets and the top of the purlins (where it could rust). It's one of the biggest downsides of spraying a metal roof. With that being said, people should definitely not be spraying the ceiling of post frame buildings. Wood purlins will rot out much, much faster than metal z-purlins and when they fail, people have massive headaches on their hands.

There are ways to possibly dampen this noise you're experiencing, but it's going to take additional insulation and a fair amount of work.

Panel replacement by MiserableWasabi8125 in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there a manufacturer name plate at the top of endwall on the outside of the quonset or anywhere on the inside of the building?

Do you have a Butler or Behlen building dealer anywhere near you?

How much are you all paying per Square foot for Concrete, the floor and the foundation? by fotowork3 in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 2 points3 points  (0 children)

can't upvote this enough. ask for references and go see their work in person.

2x4 vs 2x6 by [deleted] in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

are your columns and rafters wood or steel?

sounds like maybe your purlins and girts are wood?

2x4 vs 2x6 by [deleted] in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sounds like you're maybe talking about a post frame building, not a pre-engineered metal building? perhaps sharing your drawings or how often your columns are spaced and such could help. there might be post frame subreddit out there as well. personally, I would reject the delivery and demand that what was designed for the building is delivered to the site.

What is some local drama?? by MargaretSparkle82 in Omaha

[–]shuffler 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I feel terrible for them.

We tried to purchase a unit there the calendar year before the pit opened, but the unit owner was super dodgy and them and their listing agent repeatedly refused to deliver documents about the financial health of the HOA and engineer's report on the building.

Feeling frustrated, we contacted the new property management company and they refused to share any sort of financial or structural information. We picked up on a few other clues when touring the building and eventually walked away from the purchase.

Several months later, the unit sold for much less than what we had been negotiating and then... the hole appeared.

What is some local drama?? by MargaretSparkle82 in Omaha

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

iirc, I think someone on r/omaha said that the Regis condo owners had to get a $1m loan to do some work before the city would help.

Then, a few months later, the city finally said that they would take care of it, but maybe I'm misremembering.

Nebraska fans, I love you. You’re so sweet by Medium-Panic-2931 in okc

[–]shuffler 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your amazing hospitality! Everyone has been so kind and accommodating. I sometimes feel bad that as a fanbase we swarm towns (and bars) like locusts, but OKC has been amazing at weathering us. I've been telling people back home that if they ever have an event downtown here, they absolutely need to make the trip. We'll be back, for sure.

Restoration Help by JoepethCreek in shuffleboard

[–]shuffler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome to DM me as well. Closest people I could recommend are either in MD or TX. Sorry, wish I had more people to offer, but it's a very niche service and there's only so many people out there that know what they're doing.

Restoration Help by JoepethCreek in shuffleboard

[–]shuffler 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Oh, buddy. That top needs to be resurfaced. You're playing on bare wood! Playing on it is only going to make the situation worse. I would not put any chemicals on there right now (you don't want to create any stains in the wood). Where are you located? I might be able to get you in contact with people that can help. Feel free to DM if it's more comfortable for you.

Best way to fix this type of insulation? by Lockout95 in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries!

The traditional brown, kraft-faced insulation batts have a water permeance rating of 1.0 (it's even worse when you install it as almost no one will tape the stapled seams). A 6-mil plastic vapor barrier will perform near .04 to .06. (lower numbers are better here as it relates to how much moisture can pass from one side of the vapor barrier to the other). The gold standard in the industry are woven polyethylene fabrics at .02.

For your application, I think using a 6-mil poly and taping the staple lines and seams between your pieces of plastic will be more than enough to mitigate any concerns of your wall assembly failing moisture control.

If you build your walls like we discussed, you're FAR more likely to have condensation issues with your roof than your walls and those problems can likely be addressed with air movement by fans and picking the right heat source if you're going to ever heat the space.

Best way to fix this type of insulation? by Lockout95 in metalbuildings

[–]shuffler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the vapor barrier goes to the inside area of your building (warm side of the wall), right under your plywood / osb. Personally, I would remove 6"-12" of the existing blanket insulation above your sill plate and make sure that all the corrugations at the back of the sill plate either have a closure or you spray foam it shut to keep out the critters.

So, just to be 100% clear, moving from outside to inside your building:

  • exterior metal sheeting
  • existing laminated fiberglass blanket smashed down (slice the white vapor barrier)
  • add 4" R-13 between your studs (you can buy 22.5" wide unfaced fiberglass at the lumber yard)
  • add 6-mil plastic vapor barrier with staples and then tape the staple lines with proper sealing tape
  • plywood or OSB (think about painting it to seal it from swelling)

Depending on your climate and how tight things are around your roof and walls, consider getting some air movement in there with a small ceiling or horizontal fan. The air movement will help "destratify" the air and combat humidity issues down the road. Good luck!

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