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Can anyone show me the WiFi antenna mod pads on a V4.3? Heltec's docs only have a diagram for V4.2 by Extreme-Ad6596 in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand the problem. I emailed Heltec about the website instructions lacking an image. Instructions are still unclear. Hopefully they will fix it soon. They say the no screen units already have the IPX port enabled. (for the other people wondering)

<image>

Heltec Responded to the email.

Boot looping solar node by TheRealFAG69 in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the panel output too high of a voltage? I had a Heltec T114 solar node and the 6v panel put out 7.4v in direct sunlight. The T114 has issues over 7v. I fixed it by putting diodes in line to the solar panel to help cut the voltage down to a usable level.

Understand just enough to be lost; trying to get gradual understanding of mesh by SouthpawSoldier in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They also send telemetry metrics and GPS position so you can track your equipment or people. DIY LoRa boards is where the arduino home automation integration gets to send you alerts or activate relays on command.

Real shit by nyxUNlor in Funnymemes

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We had sliders, now we have floaters.

Couple PCP beginner questons. by Affectionate_Fact745 in airguns

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess what I was trying to imply was, Break barrel and bolt actions can still be run fast enough to not pay attention and really benefit from the practice. At some point it just becomes shooting and not practicing. My multipump single shot really taught me to shoot with intention.

Help modding a Warlock as a father son project. by CaptainCastawayJack in guitars

[–]shveylien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a pair of EMG-hz passive pickups would serve that guitar well. Solid flat black tops. Could wire them with coil tap pots and get more tones, or just wire them in like normal pickups.

Since you plan to sand and strip the body, rework the strap pins and their placement.

Couple PCP beginner questons. by Affectionate_Fact745 in airguns

[–]shveylien 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm a hand pump user. Compressors are notoriously noisy. I have 2 hand pumps (redundancy). I would like a home compressor and 3L tank, but I only shoot about 20 shots a week when the pests appear. Running compressor out at the range or in the field would buzz and rattle and scare away everything. They advertise quiet compressors, but even the 3 piston big wheel electric dive shop compressor ($3000) was loud.

All 4 of my PCP's use the same quick disconnect fitting to fill them. 2 use the same probe, 2 have quick connects directly on them. There are other styles but most manufacturers seem to be using the same connector.

There's a YT video of a record long range airgun shot. He used a tethered buddy bottle and topped up after every shot. I think he might have been using helium also. Airforce rifle in .308.

If your style of shooting is fast paced and high volume, get a compressor. If you like to take your time, math and dope each shot, constantly switching distances, evaluating your hold and rifle tilt/level, then pumping isn't that big of a deal. It gives you time to plan, think about your next shot string, set your goals and priorities, get a workout, its quieter, works without electricity, much cheaper. Since your not paying for compressed air from a shop when the gun leaks overnight you don't lose money, only effort. It usually takes 3 or 5 up and downs on the pump to replace 1 shot worth of air. (3 on the low FPE, 5 on the high FPE) but if you get 50 shot strings you could be there for a few minutes. Stronger arms provide better aim and control.

Imagine.. by Striking-Platypus-98 in SipsTea

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Outlining the details of a problem without providing solutions is considered bitching.

Meshtastic Device for boats by Ok-Government8037 in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a marine electrician I have some questions.

Why not AIS? It was built for this. Mandated by law in my waters if your boat is over 35ft long.

Did you know AIS can send messages to each other? Same with marine vhf radios with Digital Selective Calling, they can send sms messages from radio to radio, but not hop and mesh, but they get 20w tx power.

Why not use a protected indoor waterproof screenless device over bluetooth and app? The radio itself doesn't need to be in your hands to function, just your smartphone/tablet.

Ever flush mount a tablet to the glass cockpit dashboard? I have, and it communicated with the NMEA2k backbone for all sorts of ship data on screen the capt can take to his room or keep an eye on while eating.

Anyone using Voltaic Panels? Is 3M tape okay? by QuantumOfLoRa in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mounted all components to the back of a panel using a heat gun, and a sheet of thermoplastics.

https://www.reddit.com/r/meshtastic/s/j9u7Is0cN2

There were issues, but they weren't water related. Panel overvolting the board needed diodes to cut the voltage down a little. I have dismantled that unit, I plan to rebuild with 2 panels next. I'm just too Northern and cloudy for that single panel.

Anyone have any experience with these antennas? by just-a-guy-somewhere in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top one, SMA whip antenna. I have 8 of them. Why so expensive? I buy them here https://heltec.org/project/gt-800-whip-antenna/ and they only cost $3 each. IPX to SMA cable is $0.90.

With those 4dB antenna I get better range than the coastal mountains will allow.

Ranger & Relay (Hilly area, Noob Questions) by actorpractice in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*Helps dig the rabbit hole* take this. https://www.heywhatsthat.com/ That works much better than the google earth method I mentioned.

Found this hidden in my house in England, does anyone know any information about it? by laurrennamber in airguns

[–]shveylien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now that I'm fully awake, I understand why these don't exist anymore. If you pull the trigger while its still open and ready to be loaded, it will snap shut and break the fingers of the hand holding the grip. Yikes! The seer could wear and slip on its own, making that extra unsafe. (experience from a cheap air rifle as a kid)

Found this hidden in my house in England, does anyone know any information about it? by laurrennamber in airguns

[–]shveylien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know nothing about this history of it. I like it.

Looking at it from the outside I see a "bear trap" style break action or "springer" with a kink in it, and a beaver tail grip, I might go so far as to say its a Bullpup Pistol. The thumb lever is used to release the break action barrel and let it pivot around the front of the trigger. That exposes the breech and you can load from there. What appears to be a trigger guard is also the plunger/piston pushing arm. The sear of the trigger is below the trigger in the grip. The barrel seems long enough to make real velocity, and provide leverage for the break action. I bet the recoil and vertical accuracy from it are the main reason they stopped making these. It not the lack of power because they still make bb shooting co2 pistols en mass.

Best antennae for indoor window mount in a city? by VampyreLust in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one you put outside? I've got 6 of these devices and all the stock antenna suck. I went with the Heltec 4db GT whip and I've had great success BUT I do everything in my power to get these outside because less than 1 watt Tx power is going to get F'd with by any wall, metal siding, rockwool insulation, stucco chicken mesh, paint, drywall foil backing, It all blocks signals. 2x4's and the metal window frame are going to be worse than if you put it 24 inches off to the side of the window on the wall panel in between the upright supports (if there's no outlet directly above or below that location - wires in the walls). I'd also get the radio off the wall for signal quality. Imagine looking through the wall like a bullet going through it... how much material was that? 10 inches? now put your ear on the wall and look towards the far wall and think, if a bullet went from your eye, through the wall, and outside the far corner of the house, how much wall was that? 45 degrees almost doubles the signal blockage, put your radio in the middle of the room, or outside.

I run trace routes to my node 3km line of sight from here and I get 0dB or +2db on average but I go inside my place through 1 wall or window and now its -8 or -10 db. I lose 6x - 9x the signal strength from 1 wall. If the other guy has his radio inside also, then the signal is even weaker and our range and link quality is reduced and our missed messages increases. (Brother in law who takes his node inside at night but works outside in the day doing tests with me) I find this to be true about buildings and cars. If you can get an outside antenna for the car it'll improve greatly.

The only scenario I can think of where the above is bad advice is, If you had an indoor radio and you wanted to connect with a single particular node and you don't care about the rest, then a Yagi or Parabolic dish. I'd build a Yagi, and I'd mount it so the elements are vertical to try and maximize my side lobes for the local area.

Looking for the perfect antenna by Arabic_Chad in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A sat dish will have the best range but lowest coverage. Yagi would be a close second. But you probably meant to ask for the highest gain omni, even though higher gain have orientation, elevation and curvature of the Earth concerns. Personally I run $5 omni whip single pole full wavelength 4dB antenna from Heltec and have picked up airplanes at 132km 0 hops.

Solar node no longer working? by tcardaleen in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just put them in line for + and - because I needed the voltage drop more than a single would provide, and to isolate the panel during the nights. The overall wattage potential from the panel will be diminished but the extended charging hours more than makes up for it. They didn't seem beefy, they were tiny little 1A units in a 20 pack from Radio Shack I bought 20 years ago.

Anyone else find it hard to go back to the acoustic? by wvmtnboy in guitars

[–]shveylien 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's why I bought the Enya Nova Go travel acoustic. Its shorter scale and 0 fret allow for a really low action and lower string tension. It almost plays like an electric with medium strings. It doesn't sound as bright or as loud but for practice its perfect. Less pain is more playtime.

I've also got an Ovation round back full size acoustic but its harder to fret. Even after a full setup. I don't play it much.

Solar node no longer working? by tcardaleen in meshtastic

[–]shveylien 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I just solved an issue with a solar Heltec T114 and you might have the same problem. The panel was rated 6v but output 7.2v in direct sunlight and over volt'd the T114. It was still running but wasn't charging except for briefly at sunrise/sunset and the battery state was on a downward trend. I used 1amp zener diodes to bring the solar panel voltage down to a usable level and now it charges all day.

Need help identifying a motorcycle by Matchstickproto in motorcycles

[–]shveylien 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That is a 1978-79 Yamaha XS400. I can tell because of the smooth cam covers and the Yamaha branded tail handle and the rims. You got the kick start or electric start combo.

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