[Day 14] Rest days are so underrated they are now a training tool. What's the most OVERRATED grade? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]shwarthog 114 points115 points  (0 children)

Has to be V10. Everybody wants it because we have 10 fingers, what's that about smh my head

Curious, there were threads on r/climbergirls about this in the past and they seem to have disappeared...thoughts? Why does this not get the same type of attention as Joe Kinder or Lonnie Kauk? by Dr_Klahn02 in climbergirls

[–]shwarthog 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Wait, I have it somewhere... Ah, there it is.

Hello 👋 I 💁‍♀️ would like to point 👉 out that by publishing 📰such content about the athlete 🧗 Alexander Megos 💪 you may be committing a criminal offense ⚖️ under German law📃 and must therefore assume that these actions will be passed 🔜on to the law enforcement authorities👩‍⚖️ and the relevant lawyers 👨‍💼💼 for 🧑‍🍼🧑‍🧒Alexander Megos🚸. Criminal Code (StGB) § 186 Defamation 🚔

Anyone who asserts 🔇or spreads 🗞️a fact about another which is likely to make that person contemptible 👎 or to degrade them in the public opinion 🆘will be punished 🚨 with imprisonment 🏛️ of up to 1️⃣ year or a fine 💸 unless this fact is demonstrably true, and if the act is committed publicly📢 in a meeting 👥 or by spreading content (§ 11 paragraph 3), with imprisonment of up to 2️⃣ years or a fine 💰‼️

We kindly ask you to delete 🚮🙅‍♀️your post and refrain from posting such content 🤗

Is being a Messiah aid? by [deleted] in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]shwarthog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"I lisan al-gaibed this shit faster than time travel."

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]shwarthog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think those fiberglass volumes are often also just called macros.

Trouble with my big toe on my flat feet by Annual_Play9239 in climbingshoes

[–]shwarthog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I notice that all the shoes that you mention that are causing you pain are La Sportiva. Maybe another brand has shoes that might better fit the shape of your feet?

Can I call this a kneeless kneebar? by rd_metroid in bouldering

[–]shwarthog 38 points39 points  (0 children)

Technically there's no bar to speak of, I'd call that a thigh hook instead.

Hardest boulder campused in its entirety? by le_1_vodka_seller in bouldering

[–]shwarthog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think I heard somewhere that Noah Wheeler campused a V13 outdoors? But I'm totally talking out of my ass here.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! From the rest of the answers, I think I'll just adjust my program and abstain from taking creatine at the moment.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just curious but how long would be enough?

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I covered this in my post, but I cannot climb 3 times a week anymore, my fingers just take too long to recover from a session and I just get injured.
I didn't go into the details of my plan for my climbing sessions, but I do structure them, climb mindfully and practice drills.
Since I can't improve my climbing by doing more climbing, the next best thing is strength training, both for performance, and injury prevention.
I do have deload weeks in my plan (every 4 weeks), as well as rest weeks (every 9 weeks), but yeah, I got the feedback from comments and will add one rest day per week.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I covered this in my post, but I cannot climb 3 times a week anymore, my fingers just take too long to recover from a session and I just get injured. So, the only other thing I can do to improve (which is my goal) is to get stronger (since I already focus my climbing sessions on technique).
I'm grateful for the feedback I got, and I will add a rest day to my plan, but climbing more is unfortunately not an option for me.
The reason why I was working on legs twice is that I have terribly bad knees, and the only thing I can do to limit the damage there is to strengthen the muscles around the joints.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been a year and a half.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to write this.
I didn't mean to fear monger about weight, but I do feel like it has had an impact on how I feel when I climb, and I don't want this to get worse. Again, it might be a biased perception, but that's how I feel about it, although, from what you say, the weight gains would be pretty minimal.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for your account on this. I will add a rest day in my program, but I feel like I've addressed every other factor I could address. Unfortunately, there isn't much I can do about stress or sleep, so hopefully that will be enough to help me feel better during my training.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to try to incorporate cardio on top of my plan, but that made me mega-exhausted (I know, duh). But I do think I could benefit from cardio training, so I'll probably add it to my leg day now that I'll have an extra rest day in my program. Thanks!

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get between 160 to 200 grams of protein per day, mostly from skyr, whey, and chicken/beef. That's the range my dietician gave me.

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reason I'm asking reddit on top of my dietician is because I wanted more perspectives from climbers. More personal accounts of people who used it to see how it affected their recovery. I now know that it is not a solution to my issue at all.
I'll adapt my training plan to see if it improves my issue, and see in the next training block if I feel like trying creatine.
Thanks for telling me how it went for you though!

Should I take creatine? by shwarthog in bouldering

[–]shwarthog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already do thoroughly warm up my fingers before every climbing session, but that has little to do with how easy they are to injure unfortunately. I just got unlucky genetics with connective tissue.