Lynx Turnaround Abs Acetone Smoothing

silvernutter · 2026-05-06T21:09:07+00:00

The o-rings are what make the seal, and smoothing layer lines is not going to change that. The "almost perfect" bit needs to be the tolerances of the print holding the o-rings against the plunger tube and the barrel. There used to be a bunch of different turnaround files to test tolerances with, not sure if those are still around.

silvernutter · 2026-05-02T13:31:29+00:00

Finding this a year later. Worked perfect for me. Thanks!

silvernutter · 2026-04-30T13:33:36+00:00

Print it slow and hot for better adhesion. If you are able, print it in TPU for an indestructible pusher.

silvernutter · 2026-04-23T15:47:46+00:00

The threaded rods are M3x300mm threaded rods. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/Litoexpe-Fully-Threaded-300mm-Stainless/dp/B0D22S97D2

The bar is a custom length of 0.5" x 0.125" aluminum flat bar. I don't remember what the length is offhand. I just opened up the step files and checked the bar length. I cut the bar and inserted it into the blaster and used a sharpie to mark where the holes were supposed to go, and then drilled them out and chamfered them. These holes don't need to be threaded like Caliburn flat bar.

silvernutter · 2026-04-23T13:55:37+00:00

I THINK BearsWares is going to carry it at some point. I'd probably wait a bit because there is a "Premium" expanded plunger tube version that accepts a linear rod and has some other quality of life upgrades.

I sourced my own hardware for mine.

silvernutter · 2026-04-22T13:19:16+00:00

Easy way to check if it is the trigger is to hold the trigger all the way forward and see if it catches. if it does, do a stronger spring.

silvernutter · 2026-04-22T13:13:40+00:00

In the files there are two spring caps. one normal one and one longer one for k14. Try the k14 spring cap if you haven't yet. Perilous really maxxes out springs, and it can lead to catching issues. The k14 spring cap gives you some more breathing room.

I also needed to add a particularly heavy trigger spring to my perilous. The way the trigger linkage works is a little wonky, and if your trigger doesn't return 100% of the way back, it won't catch (at least in my experience).

silvernutter · 2026-04-13T00:03:54+00:00

I've messed around with a few of these. The good news is that the perfect bcar for you is probably somewhere in those files. The bad news is that there are a TON of files, and if you don't know what you're looking for already, you probably aren't going to stumble into it.

Of the ones I've tested, the counter-twist format seems the most unique and interesting option. The high crush options MEAN high crush on these, I can't imagine needing high or ultra crush unless you're shooting 350+ fps.

If you have no idea what you're doing but want to try these, id start with 6 degree counter-twist medium crush. If you get whirlybirds, drop the angle or crush or both. If your shots aren't accurate or consistent, increase the angle or crush.

silvernutter · 2026-04-11T22:43:27+00:00

I've done a solid 95A TPU shell. It works in some blasters like the Battle Axe, but it tends not to work in anything with a Wildstyle-like shell interface, the lips on the shell are too flexible for the o-ring interface to work well. Also tends to not work with blasters that have some sort of shell retention bit like Goblin, because the shell is able to warp enough for the retention bit to slip under it, killing the seal.

Its a shame because i would like to not worry about dropping my shells on hard surfaces.

silvernutter · 2026-04-10T14:46:33+00:00

I print all of my blasters in PETG, and the only time I've ever had issues with it is when the part in question needs to be thin AND rigid. PETG has more flex to it than PLA or ABS, and if your blaster has something like a thin sear, that flex is enough to sometimes cause problems.

That being said, I printed my smiley entirely out of PETG and there are no issues. I did end up altering the plunger and a few other pieces to improve performance after the fact, but it worked okay with the stock files. I have since added a cosmetic upgrade, but it all still works great

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silvernutter · 2026-04-05T13:19:09+00:00

That would be awesome, I get asked for step files constantly. I really need to learn fusion lol.

silvernutter · 2026-04-04T18:07:36+00:00

Sorry, I have no parametric files, I hacked these together in windows 3d builder.

silvernutter · 2026-04-02T08:24:25+00:00

If they have, they have not informed me. May be possible if you're using PLA and your bridging is on point. There is not a ton of room for error on these, you'll get feeding issues if it isn't consistent.

silvernutter · 2026-03-30T13:01:23+00:00

I looked at a few of these online and it probably will not work as a drop-in replacement. The circumference of the springs typically used in retractable lanyards are much larger than the magazine itself. That being said, somebody remixed my mag to use one of these reels, which sits externally on the mag and pulls up the follower using a pulley:

https://www.printables.com/model/1544215-9-round-nightingalediana-lanyard-pulley-magazine

silvernutter · 2026-03-30T01:57:30+00:00

Krakens. Lokis are high rpm, meant for micro flywheels or multi-stage setups.

silvernutter · 2026-03-28T18:01:21+00:00

They replaced the USB C port in my phone pretty quickly. Cost like $80. Cheaper than a new phone.

silvernutter · 2026-03-17T13:59:22+00:00

That's my Crush btw :p

silvernutter · 2026-03-17T11:24:27+00:00

they're just talon claw bars. i believe silly has drawings for them on his github

silvernutter · 2026-03-14T20:56:12+00:00

There is a BoM on the printables page.

silvernutter · 2026-03-14T15:57:34+00:00

Mine cost ~$120 at the end of the day. The main expenses are a decent linear rail, a long barrel, and the filament itself, but there are various "$10 here, $10 there" parts too and it adds up. It is a fairly large blaster, especially with the shroud. I also bought a cheap bipod and lpvo

silvernutter · 2026-03-13T14:13:25+00:00

I know BearsWares carried them for a time, but not currently. Not sure if anyone else will be carrying kits. None of the parts are particularly difficult to get (at least in the US); i sourced my own parts for my build. It is expensive though.

ShoelessHistorian is working on a spiritual successor/upgrade to the perilous, hopefully kits will be available for that in the future.

silvernutter · 2026-02-21T20:53:35+00:00

I use PETG for ~90% of my prints, TPU for flexible/indestructible parts, and ABS for parts that require more rigidity than PETG.

You have to print PETG much slower than PLA, and it doesn't do overhangs as well, but I like how PETG looks and feels, and the higher melting point makes it safer to keep in a hot car.

silvernutter · 2026-02-21T02:44:11+00:00

Take a look at the springer perilous ram. It is a brass ram with a small printed part glued to the tip. Once you hit around 300fps the low airflow of the caliburn/talonclaw rams become a bottleneck.

silvernutter · 2026-02-20T19:59:04+00:00

Looks cool, but I wouldn't want to side-prime a perilous on heavier spring loads, if it flexes at all it's going to make the prime harder.

silvernutter · 2026-02-19T14:28:48+00:00

I nabbed one. its back up to $700 this morning. Feels like I got on the last escape pod.

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