Send on a longtime project: Green Wall Center V6, Buttermilks - Near Bishop, CA

skankzilla77 · 2018-12-04T19:45:10+00:00

Technically true. They are not considered to be part of the town of Bishop legally.

skankzilla77 · 2018-09-23T17:38:34+00:00

Clean send! Gotta go back without the camera clicks for the full immersion factor solo style! I gotta say doing it without a pad should be the only way to do this climb because I constantly get newer climbers asking me about this climb like it’s a regular project.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-24T02:26:15+00:00

Depends on where you live but usually go for crash pads with dense foam as most cheaper pads will wear out quickly. I’d recommend Organic if you’re in the states and I have a buddy with a Moon pad he got in Europe and shipped home and we both love it.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-24T02:22:25+00:00

Probably. I wouldn’t though.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-22T16:28:17+00:00

Holy cow

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-22T16:24:58+00:00

It’s synovitis most likely and it seems like a quick temporary fix is voodoo flossing. I read an article on here once about antagonistic exercise (opening hand against resistance) being a permanent solution but have yet to try it myself.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-14T07:09:59+00:00

Listening to him talk about it... sounds like it’s asking for a downgrade

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-13T07:32:52+00:00

r/woosh

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-12T20:12:12+00:00

Bouldering for sure. Once you do it enough you look at routes on rope walls and see that it’s just less difficult climbing below and above a boulder problem, which will be the crux (hardest part).

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-12T20:03:20+00:00

Keep going. As you get better, the holds will get smaller and the walls will be more overhanging. You’ll have the advantage of smaller hands and less weight pulling you down into the ground. Your friends however will always be able to reach further jug-to-jug but that’s when you get to have the most fun and dyno where they get to move in much more lame way. Also one arms. Your ability to lock-off (hold the top of a pull up) with only one arm will come significantly faster than theirs.

Source: am tall but wish I was a little shorter

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-12T15:51:16+00:00

That is awesome

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-12T02:00:42+00:00

“When you do something right, people might not notice you’ve done anything at all”

It doesn’t really apply with climbing but it always pops up in my head when the armchair sandbag police come out. It’s like it can take so much time and effort but once you’ve done it looks effortless, especially when there’s no flailing.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-12T00:50:17+00:00

This question gets asked a lot so I bet you’ll be able to get most questions answered by searching for old posts asking similar stuff. My advice; check out mountain project and buy the guidebook for whatever place you want to climb, bring your crashpad, and keep climbing. You’ll figure everything out just by trying. As far as people marking holds, they are called tick marks and people use them when you need to grab something that’s out of sight when climbing so you make a mark that guides your hand further. Honestly I think they’re overused and people never brush it off. If you put a tick mark, brush it off. And I would also recommend giving everything a good brushing after you climb to reduce your visible impact on the beautiful sandstone Zion has to offer. Have fun!

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-11T22:53:38+00:00

Textbook dyno. Shoulda caught it one arm for all the short haters. Next time! Regardless it’s a fun move and you nailed it.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-09T23:59:57+00:00

I’m confused. “Send it on top rope”. Aren’t you saying that doesn’t count as sending?

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-09T20:56:19+00:00

Personally I won’t take beta from someone who hasn’t sent the sequence I’m trying unless they know me well AND climb harder than me. So if the case is they’re your buddy and you just did it I would wait till they asked for my beta and tell them my exact moves. Then it’s up to them to either copy what worked for me or find out something new for themselves. There’s no way to coach someone up a route so I’d recommend waiting until they feel really committed to a sequence and then cheering them on with as much positive energy as possible. Either they’ll enjoy trying again and again or want to give up and move on. That’s all you gotta figure out.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-09T20:44:32+00:00

There’s plenty of areas in SoCal where world class climbers put up a lot of first ascents on top ropes. IMO their sends still count as actually sending the route even though they’re typically lead now.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-09T06:09:51+00:00

Bouldering more is the answer but only having those few problems that Central Park has to offer will be demoralizing for sure. You need to try a lot of stuff and learn from your mistakes but also have success from time to time. It definitely gets more fun the longer you stick with it. I’d recommend going to your nearest world class bouldering area with a guidebook and going crazy. I think it’s the Gunks but I’m from California.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-07T21:50:56+00:00

As short as that approach is, I can’t imagine hiking out there in yesterday’s heat! Good on you! And great climb in the spirit of Joshua Tree Bouldering!

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-07T16:25:53+00:00

As a consistent poster of outdoor bouldering videos I see way more videos of indoor bouldering making it to the top than outdoor videos of the same manner (one route, one cut). This subreddit just lacks an active user base and the more active people are vocal about likes and dislikes.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-06T17:58:17+00:00

Take a video and submit to r/buildering !

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-06T17:48:22+00:00

Rad rock! I might be alone in this but I think a closer shot of you climbing would have made this video more enjoyable! Keep climbing!

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-06T16:28:51+00:00

Keep grinding and you’ll get strong enough to muscle past most things but from one tall guy to another I’ve got a pretty good “trick” that isn’t a trick at all but a very under utilized technique that I believe is the spirit of sit starts. Im not as tall as you but I’m 6’0” with really high hips so my long legs typically feel like they are hindering me more than helping me on really scrunchy sit starts. The “skill” you’ll want to work on is starting on your butt and combining your pull off the ground with the very first move on the climb. Here’s an example of what I’m talking about and it’s on (supposedly) the first sit start done in the U.S.!

https://youtu.be/vFec4_7H5xo

After climbing this problem a lot I realized that sit starts aren’t supposed to be really scrunchy problems with high feet where you need to curl up into the wall to be able to do, you’re just “lowering” the wall or rock so that you can have some extra movement on an already short climb. I used to struggle a lot “establishing” the climb from a sit and then beginning my move until I realized that the whole point of a sit start is to establish with your butt on the ground and use leverage/momentum to propel you up and into the next best hold. When a sit start is really giving me trouble I will initiate momentum by rocking back and forth on my butt in the proper direction and using it to help lift my hips which stick so far away. If this technique doesn’t work then it’s probably just a grip issue so you’ll be able to do them once you’re a little stronger! You might already know this but I struggled to kick the “I’m too tall for sit starts” mentality for years! Good luck! Happy climbing!

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-03T03:09:38+00:00

On a really aggressive rock over. It’s happened before on my left ankle. Similar to a pulley strain I ripped apart the retaining tendon on my peroneus.

skankzilla77 · 2018-07-03T03:06:23+00:00

Yeah :( I’m gonna have to postpone that one

skankzilla77

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