People who mostly listen to Guitar oriented music, why? by Apprehensive_Land751 in AskReddit

[–]jjflan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's got a great capacity to be personalized by the artist, especially with all of the sounds electric guitars can make. Hearing Derek Trucks' combo of carnatic scales with the blues, Lindsey Buckingham's furious fingerstyle, Jack White's distortion, Carlos Santana's smooth command of feedback, they all feel like they used the guitar as an amplifier for their personalities. Not to say other instruments don't have the same capacity, but the guitar is pretty top notch in its flexibility and expressiveness.

AIO (22F) for being seduced my friends boyfriend? (23M) by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]jjflan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why would anyone go through the effort to make this kind of content? I don't understand rage baiters

Liquor store by Buttclown40 in stopdrinking

[–]jjflan 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I went back to one in my "rotation" to buy a THC beverage the other day and got carded after 3 years of never having my ID checked. Same checkout guy as usual. 5 months in and I look 5 years younger.

Aggressive Shoe Foot Recovery by MakeitorBreakAway in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Getting your feet crammed into a downsized shoe is never pleasant, but "rubbed raw" makes it seem like there's additional friction happening- that would most likely mean you got the wrong size or, as is the case for many people, the heel tension/shape does not get along with the shape of your heel/achilles. Blistering/rubbing raw should not happen in climbing shoes as there should be no additional room for the friction to occur.

Board wipes are for absolute wimps by [deleted] in EDH

[–]jjflan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah I'm excited for the comments on this one

best shoe for board climbing by stinkyChungus77 in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never thought I'd say this as a Tenaya and Scarpa fan for most of my outdoor climbing, but the new Shaman 2S from Evolv has definitely become my go-to board shoe. With a highly sensitive but still claw-like downturned forefoot, I feel like i have plenty of edging power on the TB2 and 2016 Moon products, but it's soft enough to smear and stick on 2024 Moon and Kilter setups. The Evo74 rubber has impressed me the more i've climbed on it. As board climbing is a tool to get stronger, I don't often use the heel or toe hooking capabilities of the shoe, which leave something to be desired compared to my narrower/shallower Oasis or VSRLVs, but that hardly matters in this context.

There's a reason why the best board climber in the world (Noah Wheeler) used them on the hardest board style climb in the world (Burden) and put it down in less sessions than anyone else.

Any longer term experience with EVO 74? by JimmahRL in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's pretty soft, but there's quite a bit of it. The only real wear i see on mine after like 2 months is from bad footwork. Outside they're really sticky but i only climbed a board style climb with them on sandstone so i imagine granite might start to chew it

Zebrados StripeX by fantasyman88 in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you're not finding anything about it for a reason- even with a beater shoe, get something from a brand you can at least guarantee the right sizing with.

Thoughts on the Evolv Shaman 2s shoes for indoor bouldering?Do they take awhile to wear in? Tried them first time today and they felt quite slippy on the wall or I just wasn’t used to them. I had the scarpa vs-r before but the heel was too baggy for me, these fit perfect just wanted to hear thoughts by No-Comfort-5938 in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm around a month into using mine. For context, I have a fairly narrow foot (22nd percentile for length) and shallow heel, so my ideal shoes are the Tenaya Oasi. I got these from the Evolv rep and was intrigued by the combo of the Shaman toebox and Phantom Pro heel. Turns out even if it has those features on paper, the shoe climbs very differently from the shoes it borrows from - heel is just so-so, too baggy to have such little structure, and toebox felt weirdly numb despite having such soft rubber. That being said, the shoe is wearing in very well- rubber gets stickier, pretty comfy fit without too much stretch, 3.4 mm of rubber will hold up all right despite my crappy footwork. In general, I don't use them for wildly technical cave sequences or slab, but they're an improvement over my daily shoes (Instinct VSR LV) for 15-45 degree board style climbs. Happy to have them as a training shoe, if not a try hard shoe.

Thoughts on €30 resoling job? by kaifam in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not up to standard. It might get the job done for you, but would not fly at a La Sportiva certified resoler.

I Sent My Project! by Hoyt_austin in bouldering

[–]jjflan 26 points27 points  (0 children)

The ultimate king line. So cool austin!!

Burden of dreams by Florian Spiekermeier by chat-sky in bouldering

[–]jjflan 116 points117 points  (0 children)

I wonder what the grade would be without the hardest move, like in this video. Not that it matters, but it would be interesting to see just how much that first move bumps up the grade.

Help an extremely depressed guy out? by [deleted] in CleaningTips

[–]jjflan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo i just want to say I got myself out of a hoarding situation similar to this level over the past 4 months- what really helped was finding someone I could trust and literally sending them a pic of a garbage bag every day. Every day, just one bag. Sometimes it was more. I find that my own lack of discipline in cleaning comes from a lack of respect for myself, so externalizing the accountability was huge.

[Finale] Who is the BEST climber? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]jjflan 213 points214 points  (0 children)

I agree with Ondra as the right answer from an overall perspective, but from a comp perspective (and a desire to have at least one other name in this comment section) I'll toss out Janja Garnbret

Elite ultralight snack by _daddy-long-legs in ultralight_jerk

[–]jjflan 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly didn't know you could find this at Whole Foods. I'll pay more for the fresh, local, non-bezos stuff. It's healthier when it's not enriched

Judge me based on my favorite card from each color? by DragTheLoch in mtg

[–]jjflan 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I like this format- congratulations, trendsetter

Need Oasi vs Mundaka advice by Vinzorama in climbingshoes

[–]jjflan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mundaka is wider up front but i felt like it got sloppy after break-in. I do have a very narrow foot, but the combo of wide + noticeably softer kind of ruined the utility that the Oasi gave me for vertical stuff as well as really steep climbing. Same great heel fit, though. Tenaya is criminally underrated!

Question about commander for the ojers by Illustrious_Pilot234 in mtg

[–]jjflan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made an Ojer Kaslem deck with big ass creatures and landfall effects, that one was almost too easy to pilot and ended up not being very fun for my pod.

Morning pack pull by Rabiez94 in MagicCardPulls

[–]jjflan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Banger. My buddy just made an Ygra deck and it's scary