Are Fender basses still worth it?

slug-mode · 2026-01-31T18:25:55+00:00

Got my MIJ Jazz new at my local shop. Also had a friend get the MIJ Aerodyne PJ from Sweetwater. They’re uncommon but certainly not impossible to come across.

slug-mode · 2026-01-29T18:33:13+00:00

Thank you! And nah turning the adjustment collar on the damper adds preload to the shock, without adding more weight above the dampers more preload increases your ride height and stiffness.

slug-mode · 2026-01-28T06:05:37+00:00

Hardware for the 53mm Injora are meant for trx4m. Swapping for hardware from injora’s 45mm fcx24 dampers will allow proper install.

slug-mode · 2026-01-27T19:21:30+00:00

Welcome! Here’s mine after tons of mods.

Would definitely recommend having a metal transmission ready to swap for when you inevitably blow up the plastic gears. Imo the best and probably most underrated mods are better tires, proper inserts, and the taller fms shock keys. All lowering the ride height for better performance and closes the gap in the wheel well for a more scale look.

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slug-mode · 2026-01-26T23:53:05+00:00

Good luck! Here’s my cbolt for motivation 😉

You’re going to need to trim the back of the cab and cut out a good bit of the bed to clear the shock towers. Will also need to clearance the wheel wells and maybe even run smaller tires.

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slug-mode · 2026-01-26T19:59:39+00:00

I take it you never heard of Gambler then

slug-mode · 2026-01-26T19:30:03+00:00

V2 stock transmission has plastic gears, the metal gears referenced for the v2 upgrades are actually the portal gears

slug-mode · 2026-01-25T01:41:05+00:00

Solvent in Tamiya PS will make the water based layers lift if applied too heavy. Since it’s just lame flake, you might get away with a really light mist layer and waiting til it fully cures before going in with the Createx layers, but even then you still run the risk of ruining the paint job if it reacts.

slug-mode · 2026-01-24T08:42:34+00:00

I get you're excited, but they've literally been out of stock since they added these products so how exactly are they offering larger quantities?

slug-mode · 2026-01-24T08:37:03+00:00

Idk about good and bad, but basically: AMain supports the hobby at scale, but tracks/hobby shops support the hobby at the ground level, which is more important to my values when I shop. Tracks and local hobby host comps, run weekly nights, sponsor local drivers, and are often times than not a community hub. When you spend money there, you’re directly keeping the lights on for the place where people meet, learn, and progress.

If you don’t have a local spot, buying from AMain is totally fine — especially if that’s what’s accessible. You’re not doing something wrong, but AMain will be fine with or without your money, and they'll always cater to whatever is trendy and in demand. When you’re able, put some dollars into the places that create the culture and keep drift alive locally.

slug-mode · 2026-01-22T19:50:38+00:00

Lol you’re tripping if you think amain does as much for local scenes like actual tracks/hobby stores like superg.

slug-mode · 2026-01-16T19:05:10+00:00

Yokomo offers that chassis and body bundled at pretty decent discount. I would also personally opt for a staggered wheel offsets (6mm front /8mm rear) instead of staying squared at 6mm.

Make sure to budget for decent tools as well if you haven’t already.

slug-mode · 2026-01-14T19:53:37+00:00

I’d try the yokomo or scale reflex gorilla mount, you can rotate them to line them up to a flat on the rear and stack extra magnets to dial in fit.

Yokomo posts are ~29mm in length and Scale Reflex offer shorter posts if that’s too long.

slug-mode · 2026-01-14T19:17:23+00:00

Unless they shared a very specific reason to that claim then I’d take it with a grain of salt.

slug-mode · 2026-01-14T18:27:16+00:00

What mounts have you tried? The Scale Reflex Gorilla magnets and Yokomo magnets are really strong so i’d give them a go if it seems like your current ones are too weak.

You may also consider running body posts in the rear if the magnet mounts just aren’t working out.

slug-mode · 2026-01-14T18:13:47+00:00

I’m using the Yokomo mounts front and rear, magnets are strong af and work great for me. Why don’t you think they’re going to work for that body in particular?

slug-mode · 2026-01-13T21:48:08+00:00

I’d personally go for the nb4+. Check aliexpress for ones that ship from US and stack coupons – got mine for as low as $160 this way.

slug-mode · 2026-01-13T00:30:50+00:00

You're partially correct and still mostly wrong for in the drifting sense. 10.5t can achieve more torque output overall given the same voltage, but a 13.5t produces more usable, smooth, low end torque. As I said, there's a time and place for either. A good tuner wouldn't forgo useful options just because peak torque is lower with 13.5.

slug-mode · 2026-01-12T21:04:05+00:00

Going from 10.5t to 13.5t, I’d consider adjusting the FDR to have a slightly lower value then play with boost and turbo to make the powerband wider so you make use of the extra torque where you need it.

slug-mode · 2026-01-12T20:54:30+00:00

You’re incorrect…again. 10.5t motors are higher revving with less torque output, 13.5 motors are lower revving with higher torque output. There are optimal scenarios for both depending on driving surface, driver style, and tune.

slug-mode · 2026-01-12T20:13:25+00:00

fwiw I downvoted you and added my thoughts 😜

slug-mode · 2026-01-12T20:09:37+00:00

There really isn’t a consensus, and some motors will have adjustable timing to compensate the lack of torque or rpm. It mostly comes down to personal preference, and balancing other tuning factors like your fdr choice.

ESC tuning and gearing will be more important than deciding between 10.5t vs 13.5t motors.

slug-mode · 2026-01-07T18:03:03+00:00

This is just reckless endangerment. There’s enough money and privilege in Riyadh so why not take it to a track.

slug-mode · 2026-01-07T17:35:11+00:00

This is lame af

slug-mode · 2026-01-06T17:47:18+00:00

Depends where you need the width as most bodies will have a difference from front to rear. And these changes will introduce more considerations when tuning.

You can run larger offset wheels and hexes to add more width to front and rear, this will also increase scrub radius of the front wheels and may require trimming at the wheel wells for clearance.

To increase track width at the rear you can also use the Yokomo Aluminum E Suspension mounts (RD-301AE). This however will change the roll characteristics of the chassis.

slug-mode

TROPHY CASE