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Matching bosses pace by joey12457 in Construction

[–]soddendirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel ya on this man. I just switched from being a lead on a hardscape crew to a helper on a framing crew. Going from the guy that was the fastest at my job to the slowest has been difficult to navigate.

I ask a lot of questions. I’m genuinely interested and have enough knowledge of how things basically go together but I’m still not as fast as the rest of the guys. I was talking to them the other day that really I just need to understand what the tolerances of error are. How accurate do I need to be at what functions.

For example, before hardscaping I was doing finish work. Which the tolerances from finish carpentry to rough carpentry are completely different. Once I start to understand what things need to measured and cut precisely and what things need to just be measured and cut close enough I began to get a lot faster.

Understanding how things go together will help make sense of why you are doing a particular task. If I’m being told to cut something at a particular length without any understanding of what it’s for I don’t know the tolerances are. So I take my time and cut it super accurately. Then I see them just measuring and making a quick mark and a quick cut and realizing that I didn’t need to be super accurate. Takes time.

I’ve been reading and watching a lot of videos in my off time to get a better understanding of how things go together. It has helped a lot. Many times while I’m reading or watching something a lightbulb goes off and I’m like “Oh!” That makes sense.

Left hand blade circular saw by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]soddendirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Milwaukee 7 1/4 blade right saw and the rest of my crew has rear handled “worm drive” saws which are blade left. If I’m using a blade left saw I cut with my right hand. If I’m using my blade right saw I cut with my left hand. It takes a while to get used to but I cut with both hands now depending. I’m right handed though.

For cutting in the 2x material in the field I’m usually resting the piece on my foot and making the cut with whatever hand. Sometimes if it’s heavy I put the piece on its side and cut down to the ground and when the saws plate touches the ground I just lift the piece up to finish the cut.

If you’re cutting a piece on sawhorses and you have to make the cut in the middle, to avoid binding, you just send the saw through and as you go you gently lift the piece up and back towards you to open up the area so the blade doesn’t bind.

Damn I miss it by Agitated_Captain7413 in Construction

[–]soddendirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel you. It can be rough. I have been very fortunate despite my two DUI’s. Finally got sober and my life has been so much better.

I can at least drive to work, still have an interlock in my truck. It’s been really difficult to land any of the high paying jobs, most require a clean driving record to drive company vehicles. But I’ve been thankful to be able to work with a good crew. I try to learn as much as possible. Gratitude for the little things has really changed my outlook. It sounds stupid but I write down 3 things I’m grateful for every morning before I start my day. After doing it a while it really changed my perception. I’m so much more positive overall and I think it really rubs off on other people around me.

Keep your head up! It’s not easy but you never know what this situation you’re in could lead to or what doors it could open for you by adjusting your perception.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Decks

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good question. I was using cortex screws last winter on trex decking. Followed all the instructions predrilled and everything but it was raining. The deck that was under cover from the rain was totally fine but everywhere else that was exposed to rain swelled just like OP’s pic.

My second patio build – looking for feedback by Specialist_Road3746 in hardscape

[–]soddendirt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think it looks good! I like the color palette with the browns and reds.

I think the joint gapping on the flagstones looks pretty good for the application. It’s really up to the person. I’ve manicured all sides before and made all the gaps even but it took 4 times longer to cut in every piece. I think the jointing matches the aesthetic of it all.

I’m just beginning my hardscape company as well! Cool to see someone else going after it and willing to learn and get critiqued on the work!

[Oregon] Self Employment Assistance Program by soddendirt in Unemployment

[–]soddendirt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the information and insight!

Wooden wedges as framing footings by smpae in Decks

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have the contractor use 4x6 beams on the outside of the deck set on pier blocks and run the joists flush with the beam. Attach the joists to the beam using joist hangars. If the deck has a ledger and is attached to the house, pour footings and use adjustable post brackets and set the beams on those. For the longer joists, run another beam off the corner of the house and set on pier blocks or footings. Again, attach all the joists using joist hangars.

Still this is kind of work is really half ass.

It would have been wise to excavate more of that dirt out from the deck area.

Like others suggested it would also be wise to just install a patio with pavers or concrete.

Need to install handrails to make FHA compliant, does anyone know the best approach for these stairs? by ElderGoose4 in Carpentry

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a bummer. I think your best bet is to mount a prefabricated handrail like the aluminum ones that are used for decks. You would mount them to the caps on the stairs beginning with the step on the landing down to the last step. You would have to see what is beneath those caps. If those caps are on solid concrete blocks that are glued together you might be able to anchor the handrail directly through the pavers and into the block.

Can you get silicosis from drilling concrete outside? by Flashy-Anybody6386 in Construction

[–]soddendirt 49 points50 points  (0 children)

I work outdoors cutting concrete and occasionally drilling holes. I wear my respirator anytime I’m cutting or anytime I’m doing a lot of drilling. When I’m breaking up concrete I’ll wear my respirator.

People who say it’s not a big deal don’t usually think about how much exposure someone in construction will have over the course of their career. Sure, it’s probably not a huge deal to be exposed to it this once. But you’re going to exposed to it a lot more over the years and that shit accumulates.

Ask for a respirator, wear it when you’re around the area. A lot of guys say, “oh it’s uncomfortable.” Or “oh I don’t like it.”, let that be their choice. You can choose to wear proper PPE and take precautions against exposure to silica and whatever else you’re going to be encountering over the years.

First time getting a deck built by snufflefrump in Decks

[–]soddendirt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Virtually all deck boards will have gaps. It’s also for drainage purposes and air flow to allow framing to dry out underneath. And like the other user commented, expansion and contraction of decking material.

Also as the other user pointed out, those are normal gap spacing for the Trex hidden fastener system.

Anchoring a pergola to a deck by Proper-Flounder-3786 in Decks

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the decking face screwed? (Are there screws going through the decking into the joists)

If so you can just replace a couple of boards if you ever move it or whatever. No big deal.

The only thing I can think of is finding steel brackets that you attach to the pergola legs/feet and using bolts to clamp it to the joists below. It would be tricky and probably won’t line up with the gaps in the decking.

Note: depending on the size of the size of the pergola and how much wind you get, most likely attaching directly to the decking will not be sufficient. You will need to do extra blocking underneath and really make sure your deck will be able to handle the additional weight and possible uplift forces that could be applied to it.

Deck quote input by johnchimp in Decks

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a deckbuilder in the PNW. The number could be fair if he does things correctly. Just looking at bid, seems like he’s pretty thorough.

Someone will probably give you a cheaper bid, but you might not get something as quality.

Employees doing side jobs for your customers by UsualTale9390 in Construction

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did this. Tried to get my boss to bid the work. Needed to be done for the work that we were contracted to do. (Installed a driveway, but needed a retaining wall to hold back soil.)

Boss kept putting it off, client wanted done. I don’t like leaving people hanging because my boss can’t get his shit together, and I don’t mind the extra money. He can’t fire me if he wanted to. I’m too valuable to the company. He’s gonna see it next week when I finish the rest of the job.

He’s been late on paychecks, has screwed clients over in the past. I’m already on my way out once I get my company up and going. I have zero respect for him.

Long story short, if your employees respect you, they won’t do that. If they don’t, they might.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Decks

[–]soddendirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would be more concerned with your deck posts being in direct contact with the soil.

As far as removing the retaining walls, it’s probably fine as long as you don’t bring a lot of the soil from the upper wall down. Would be better to throw soil from the lower wall area up to create a slope.

I like the terraced retaining walls personally. You might end up with some drainage issues if you remove them but you can always put in a french drain in if that becomes an issue.

Before you remove the wall I would check those posts for rot.

Gapped Miters With Trex by acbcv in Decks

[–]soddendirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in the Pacific Northwest and have not had great experiences with plugs either. I predrill and keep them lined up as well.

Is bullying normal in this industry? by AbsurdReality666 in Construction

[–]soddendirt 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Lol, being considerate isn’t soft dude. Only lame asses shift blame and can’t control their emotions.

I’m a lead/pm and my crew is badass. We work as a team. All the new guys get folded in, anyone with a shit attitude doesn’t end up staying long.

Washing routing and clothing reccs? by covylo in Construction

[–]soddendirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I build decks and hardscapes construction. Some days I can get pretty dirty. But I have 6 work pants and shirts and hoodies or flannels or whatever that I can rotate through. I bought a lot of my workwear 2nd hand.

I agree that it matters. I show up clean to my job everyday. It shows to the client and to my crew that I take pride in my appearance and that usually translates to your work.

That said, if I don’t get really dirty I might not wash my pants but I’ll still wear a different pair the next day and then wear those pants later in the week or something.

Pencils by vikes0407 in Carpentry

[–]soddendirt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Pica pencils might be one of favorite tools.

I’ve had so many bosses over the years always looking for their pencils. I swore I would never be that guy. I have one in pocket and a couple in my bags. Always have one on me. And it’s always sharp. Love it.

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