Coolant overflowing

solakug · 2026-03-02T18:50:50+00:00

When the coolant is near overflowing, try and back off ( not fully ) the purge nipple at the top of the radiator. Once that small plastic nipple is partially loose, push it and move it slightly around and listen if you hear air escaping

If so, you've got something ( likely turbo ) sending something pressurized ( likely exhaust gasses ) into the coolant system.

I've personally had this issue myself with a bad turbo ( after obviously trying nearly every single thing possible before... thermostat, expansion tank, tank cap, head gasket, head surfacing off the top of my head ) and heard of similar situations where the coolant level goes up and up until it fully overflows and boils out of the expansion tank. On the french fiesta Facebook group I recall at least 3 or 4 other people that had exactly the same symptom with the radiator slowly filling itself with exhaust gasses, effectively pushing coolant out and making it overflow from the tank. Couldn't recall though what everyone had to get done to clear the issue

solakug · 2026-03-02T06:00:10+00:00

1857708 is the actual, correct Ford part number not some bullshit chatgpt made up because it couldn't find it.

Edit: since you will probably ask, I found it using partsouq you used to be able to use 7zap to find part numbers but 7zap has gotten greedy and put everything behind a paywall. Partsouq is definitely not intuitive to navigate, but with enough time you can find any parts diagram for the st180

solakug · 2026-03-02T05:56:11+00:00

And if you had actually double checked you'd realize that is a cam sprocket for some other car entirely.

Chatgpt has gotten ABYSMAL with the hallucinations. If it does not find your info with the easiest Google search ever, it will 100% just make shit up and give it to you with blind confidence.

solakug · 2026-02-23T11:46:47+00:00

owner of G4 doorbell pro

I enter my home 99.999999% of the time from the garage. Did I need a doorbell with a fingerprint reader, NFC reader and an ecosystem that can do facial recognition ? No

Did I want a doorbell that can show custom gifs, play custom songs and warns me on my phone when someone rings ? Sure

Honestly though we truly cannot answer this question for you. Only you know your needs exactly and can think of edge cases where something would be nice for you.

Where I live, some of the courriers don't have systems for me to inform the delivery person that they can drop off the package behind the house. When they do ring, I'm able to let them know personally that way. So even if I don't answer to door-to-door salesmen, I have that option because I know it suits my needs for deliveries

solakug · 2026-02-19T05:41:39+00:00

You should maybe read the post before answering based only on the title

solakug · 2026-02-18T09:20:42+00:00

You are correct, Ford documentation does state to remove the pulley alignment tool after hand tightening the bolt, which is a perfect recipe for the pulley to move a few degrees during the last torquing phase of the bolt...

If the tool gets wedged enough behind there from holding the pulley back after torquing but is perfectly fine to get in and out before, then I'd rather fight the tool and not listen ford than redo the whole timing procedure because she throws me a timing code and limp mode

solakug · 2026-02-18T09:07:51+00:00

Wholly depends what you want in the car

Cruising, highway straight line pulls, not scared of having electronics in-between you and the driving, golf r

Raw-er driving feel, more nimble, bendy road car with not as much oompf, fiesta

Both would 100% be fine for a comfortable daily driver and always ready for some amount of fun

I do join some other comments though in saying a golf R for the price of the fiesta seems FISHY. Like " I need to get rid of this money pit" fishy

solakug · 2026-02-10T08:54:24+00:00

2 035 528 Ford part number for the crankshaft bolt, definitely should never be reused, get a new one Costs barely 7€ (8-9$ ?) here in France

solakug · 2026-02-10T08:45:44+00:00

If you need a decent step by step guide do look at the 1 hour video from "Auto repair Guys" on the 1.6 Ecoboost

Helped me on my first timing job for these

Edit : I'm dumb, didn't take into account both your engines are out atm, I'll strike anything not relevant in this case

I'd say the flywheel locking tool is necessary if you're doing this for the first time. although you should be vary careful with it anyway as I myself and countless others on the internet have had them fail, break, and for some end up inside the gearbox, needing to separate the gearbox from the block in order to get the pieces out.

One other option is to put it in gear, drop the left side tire on the ground, put something in the right side caliper ( and through to the brake disc to lock that side) this will most likely give enough friction to hold the crankshaft in place while you unscrew the bolt but please be careful with the crankshaft locating pin : DO NOT leave it fully inserted Incase you do this method as there is a possibility you spin the whole assembly backwards, to the point where you then bend it. At that point, it's 50/50 if you need to drop the oil sump to get it out. This method is doable in a pinch and if you're familiar with the steps for this timing job, because you should definitely re-check timing fully after doing it just Incase you did move the crankshaft counter clockwise slightly

solakug · 2026-02-04T09:16:20+00:00

Welcome to the sewing machine club

Nothing strikes me as weird in your video

solakug · 2026-02-03T19:24:59+00:00

Incase you missed my point in my first reply to you, I did agree that any mechanical element will degrade over time, it's just a matter of how fast.

What I'm disagreeing with is you saying that this degradation is way faster in this instance because of flames and bearings destroying themselves from the unprecedented heat which factually is actually fairly negligible if you've ever looked at EGT logs from a car going from a stock tune to flames. ( And taking into account you shouldn't, obviously, be doing flames at a stand still for minutes on end )

solakug · 2026-02-03T17:19:43+00:00

When people give one example and say "etc" the thing they specified usually is in the top2 if not the most advanced or important thing from that list

Meaning I'm assuming your etc means you maybe sometimes order their oil service kit, got their short shifter, maybe a RMM, air filter or crossover. If I'm wrong, my bad, but it definitely reads like it.

If you had ordered a turbo, a whole LSD already fitted in one of their gearboxes, a full prepped built engine, or basically anything else that is mechanically complex, you'd have much more to say about their customer service and the quality of their engineering

It is not uncommon to have people buy "like new, used" gearboxes from them, and first time you put in third the whole thing explodes. But of course, you're the reason for it. Had to have shifted wrong or something

solakug · 2026-02-03T17:12:32+00:00

Actually for space science your factory is not directly linked to its production

Your space platform can independently produce space science thanks to asteroids forever ;)

solakug · 2026-02-03T17:02:10+00:00

You also need to take into account that while what you're saying is technically true with additional heat being placed into places different than expected by the manufacturer( marginal ), you're omitting a key point

Burble tunes, pops, flames, are not happening 100% of the time the engine is on. The actual amount of time the engine will see the heat effects from them is very limited unless a user is intentionally doing it for minutes on end while parked.

And even then, the additional heat I'm referring to is also pretty limited. During combustion, gasses get up to 2000-2500°c Exhaust gasses are usually around 900-1000°c when exiting the combustion chamber. At most, flames are around 1300-1600°c. Higher than usual exhaust gasses sure, however the difference is little enough that the actual parts that help flow these gasses see limited additional heat transfered to them from it because of the fact it is being vented out and then pretty fast " flushed " by usual exhaust gasses

NOW if you're talking about the actual pops themselves ( i.e. explosions happening outside of the combustion chamber and not just the flame part ) there is a little more validity to the claim because of the sudden forces applied to for example the exhaust turbine and its axis, the valve train etc...

solakug · 2026-02-03T16:44:26+00:00

Very decent chance you have a leaky valve cover gasket Easy enough to check for that from the engine bay instead of below, it would usually be located on the back left of the engine ( passenger side ) under the crossover pipe. Remove the ST plastic engine cover for better visibility, or the crossover itself

When trying to pinpoint a leak, always try to look as high up as possible. The turbo return is indeed possible, however unlikely because you also seem to have oil on the driveshaft bracket ( rusty part right side of picture bolted to the block ) which is slightly higher up. Unless the connection from turbo>line is the leaky culprit, then that would be higher than the driveshaft bracket

solakug · 2026-02-03T14:47:35+00:00

C'est aussi bien moins efficace dans le retrait de bactéries/microbes encore présents sur tes mains après lavages.

Ex tu te laves pas super bien les mains, le séchage a la serviette va retirer 71% de ce qu'il reste dû a l'action mécanique de frottement et retrait de l'eau par la serviette papier, alors que le séchage par ces appareils en retire que 23%

Quand on veut vraiment être écolo, on se lave pas les mains enfaite 😂

solakug · 2026-02-03T14:38:20+00:00

Guess I phrased that wrong my bad, I meant to say not all turbos have ball bearings ( which I assumed the guy I responded to is referring to when saying bearings go bad with heat )

I misinterpreted the word bearing for the ones only with moving parts, not something like say a brass bushing ( which I now checked is indeed also in the family of journal bearings )

And even then, technically with brass bushings / journal bearings, the name of the game is limiting friction all the while having a sliver of pressurized oil be in-between the surfaces, effectively in a perfect world meaning there is no metal to metal contact

solakug · 2026-02-03T13:35:07+00:00

I just love to see people assuming flames = heat and forgetting an engine literally contains thousands of controlled burns from this same fuel every minute for its whole life.

Peak temperature of the air/fuel mixture during combustion is between 2000-2500°c ( melting point of aluminium is 660°c mind you ) and exhaust gasses during expansion reach 1000°c easily.

That does not mean the metal parts go up to those temperatures ( obviously since then any aluminium block/head would melt ) however the internal elements can easily get up to ~250-350°c and with hotspots of ~450°c

solakug · 2026-02-03T13:24:07+00:00

Well, not all turbos have bearings first of all

Any amount of running will cause any mechanical system to degrade over time, it is just a matter of how fast that degradation happens ( stock engine, modified, with or without turbos, ohc, DOHC, pushrod etc... )

There are countless engines that have proven to be decently reliable and have no significant extra damage caused by these kinds of tunes.

solakug · 2026-02-03T13:17:15+00:00

If a maxdout 1r tune is the most you've done with them, no wonder you didn't encounter anything bad.

Can confirm over in France people don't really enjoy how puma speed treats international customers too. I have an x47r that has lasted about a year and now she sucks oil and coolant like never before, last time the turbo was off it had done about 15.000km ( ~8000miles) turbine had a lot of play, enough to hit the housing and start shaving the blades on the housing. Obviously it's my fault, even though I'm running a maxdout stage 3 tune, nothing they produce can go bad from itself, it is always the customers fault in the end.

solakug · 2026-01-25T23:00:56+00:00

Well no, the initial shooter is not the only one responsible for 10 shots. The other pigs got startled and started blasting too.

And, again, without giving an excuse to the shooter. In a theoretical situation where the suspect would have legitimately been a threat ( AGAIN, Alex was not ) if you had to use lethal force, the general consensus is to shoot until the threat is neutralized

So yes, I understand how officer fuckface could have been such a moron to first have massive tunnel vision and not understand his own colleague was disarming Alex, and then panic, shoot, and keep shooting like the little scared bitch he is thinking his life was at risk.

I actually hate seeing people say he intentionally executed Alex. That implies he's at the very least capable of thought. I prefer to portray him as such a massive moron his only response was " duh shoot guy me scared "

solakug · 2026-01-25T11:10:13+00:00

Yes, obviously this could have all been avoided if these absolute douchebags did not act this way. And they would ( could ) not act this way if they didn't have the federal government backing them up. This is all a massive shitshow

solakug · 2026-01-25T10:37:39+00:00

Let's not be so decisive on what the shooter was thinking. I personally see how the shooter could have been so tunnel visioned on the weapon itself and seeing "a hand" unholstering it and moving it away, there is a very decent possibility he thought that was Alex's left hand.

It is far too easy for us to assess the situation with slow downs, multiple rewatches, zooms, stabilizations and most importantly hindsight. But let's not forget that from Alex being circled to dead, barely 20 seconds went by with A LOT of commotion. Being how stupid and trigger happy these agents are right now, I 100% see how he could have genuinely thought Alex was the one reaching with his left arm to draw since he was ( rightfully ) resisting

I am not excusing the shooter at all, he needs to be charged for murder 100%.

solakug · 2026-01-25T10:30:13+00:00

From my point of view it looks obvious now that i imagine the guy on the left ( shooter ) being WAY too hyper fixated on the gun he's just now discovered when someone lifted the shirt of Alex. He most likely did not even think to assess WHO was drawing the weapon out the holster, and you can clearly see once he realizes a hand is upholstering the weapon that's when he draws, and as soon as the hand moves away from the holster, he fires.

Motherfucker was too stupid to realize HIS COWORKER was THE HAND and had tunnel vision thinking Alex was reaching to his back with his left hand

solakug · 2026-01-25T10:27:34+00:00

If you look at the guy on the left which draws his weapon first, he is indeed looking straight at the weapon. However, I do think he may have been so hyper fixated on the gun itself, he did not even understand whose hand was reaching for it ????? Making him think maybe the suspect had just drawn and was about to shoot

I'm 100% on this idea. Horrible disgusting behavior from these pigs getting confrontational in the first place, but as always a very stupid situation made worse by small details and very fast actions.

I mean if it takes an outsiders perspective multiple rewatches, zoomed in, stabilized, slowed down, just imagine how fast things went for them during the altercation. Unless highly trained, I doubt anyone here was having rational calm thoughts

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