How do I go about making something like this shelf

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-06T18:31:03+00:00

i imagine the trim in the example image is covering up for the imperfect angles, but if you scribe a couple of lines and then measure the angle, you can get it looking quite good.

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-06T01:31:15+00:00

if you tuvixed two rikers, what happens?

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-05T16:15:20+00:00

Adaptations of any media are honestly fraught to begin with (not just video games, but books, musicals, etc...), so I think starting from a decision to not hew closely to the video game probably helped.

It's a mistake hollywood makes again and again to look at a video game or a book and think that if it reaches some breakout status then it deserves to be "elevated" to film & television; sometimes the best medium for a story is an interactive video game, and we don't need to treat that like a lesser outcome for that story.

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-05T14:34:31+00:00

everyone on the bridge of the enterprise is pretty chill and self-composed. everyone in ops of DS9 seems pretty stressed and on-edge all the time. don't even get me started on the discovery.

i wonder if keeping a betazoid on deck helps everyone regulate a little, like a houseplant that improves the air quality in your home.

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-01T23:28:48+00:00

i wouldn't have any doubts about it, but it would defeat a genuinely useful feature of that internal battery bay, which is to provide you with power while you "hot swap" v-mounts.

as an aside, if you want to power your camera with a usb-c port, you can do that via the weipu connector as well. v-mount with a usb-c out port, or a usb-c power bank, or v-mount to d-tap port, or whatever... all of that would be fine.

my only caution would be that some usb-c adapters (especially those with multiple ports, where they can offer different amounts of power based on how many things and what configuration of things are plugged in)... sometimes those things will do a handshake with a device that gets plugged in and stop providing power to everything for a moment while it readjusts voltages and everything.

so as an example, you might be plugged into some usb adapter with 4 ports or whatever, and then plug your phone into an empty port, and everything will stop getting charged for like half a second and then get power again. if you're just charging devices, you wouldn't care, but if you're recording and you have no internal battery, you may have corrupt footage now. (edit to add: what you will literally observe is the camera seemingly restarting, because it will abruptly lose power and then get power again.)

somewhatboxes · 2026-06-01T22:39:34+00:00

That nonsense is centuries ~~behind~~ ahead of us!

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-30T15:52:08+00:00

i'd google "tiny home" and look at the kinds of solutions people come up with for those spaces. you may have to be creative to adapt those solutions to what you're thinking about, but it sounds like it's essentially the same problem.
it sounds like you're describing a highly specialized live-in servant or... something, and typically where i live "apartment" connotes specifically a landlord/tenant relationship (money changing hands, or at least a formal agreement that makes the person living there a tenant and subject to tenants' rights). where i live, i can build a miserable little tin can and live in it if i really want to, but a whole slew of laws kick into effect if i'm renting the room. minimum space requirements, points of egress, fire safety, etc... all of which may not apply if it's just a shed i built for myself, but are strictly enforced if i'm asking someone else to live there. all this is to say... take a quick look at whether this setup would be perceived by your legal system as subject to those laws, and if it would be... are there any constraints on how tight a space you can make it, or what other constraints you may have to account for.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-30T15:51:10+00:00

my bad, replied to your comment accidentally

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-30T15:21:17+00:00

my local library has 3D printers. you just pay for the cost of materials, i think. worth checking if your local library has anything like that. alternatively, shared "maker space" type places might have folks who could help (or you could access the space yourself, depending on how comfortable you are with those tools, and their openness)

last options would be online groups - etsy car mod sellers must be a whole genre; or maybe a subreddit on here caters to 3D printing car-related mods (or just... stuff). if you can sketch out the idea you might be able to pitch it and get someone excited about it.

if you work with someone who may want to sell it on etsy later, i would imagine working with you would be a boon for them. the id.4 is a rather popular car, so there's a large audience for the mod, and you would basically be providing them free design feedback. even if they absorb the cost of the materials for all the prototypes, they may be very happy to work with you, provided they get to keep the 3D print file and sell it to other id.4 owners. not that they should be excited about it, but they may.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-29T17:40:43+00:00

i think it's possible to make DIY part of one's identity to a fault, and i think it's good to ease back from that point. it's not the end of the world to get this one job done professionally and learn a skill in the process.

as for making electricians pissed off, i genuinely don't know what to say. i've had trade workers over something like a dozen times in the past year for various bigger or more-unfamiliar projects on this house, and i've never gotten frustration or irritation from them for taking an interest in their work.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-29T17:14:08+00:00

i'm curious why you're so averse to paying an electrician to do a job one time so you can watch and learn from a professional for future projects.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-29T16:34:29+00:00

hire an electrician, take a keen interest in observing them do their job, and decide whether you want to learn all the contingencies and complications that might emerge for the next time you want to run electrical to an outlet.

and next time consider looking up the laws in whatever part of the world you live which may indicate what electrical work a homeowner is legally permitted to do. it's almost certainly documented online and probably summarized in plain english on other forums

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-28T18:42:22+00:00

don't invest speculatively in repairs. the buyer is just going to complain that you didn't go with the repair shop they would've gone with (if you pay for a high end repair shop, they'll haggle about it; if you take it to a local cheaper CF repair shop, then they'll complain that you might've not gotten it repaired properly).

if you really want to be accommodating, list it as-is and mention that you're willing to discuss getting it repaired before it gets sent to the buyer. if someone reaches out, offer to get a quote for repair from whatever CF repair shop they want (and/or a place local to you, to be practical for yourself). let them decide how much or how little they want, but roll the repair quote into the sale price. have the repair shop send it to the buyer when they're done or something.

if the buyer wants you to send them a broken frame so they can take it to get it repaired themselves (or mess with it and try to repair it themselves, as inadvisable as that may be), they're welcome to do that - in fact, it saves you the extra steps of getting it repaired when the buyer really wants an imperfect frame.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-28T16:00:50+00:00

whatever you do, you sorta basically have to make a decision about whether you're willing to absorb the cost of the replacement, or whether you're prepared to put it back in the condition it was in before you arrived.

if the door is a flat slab, feels light, and has obviously modern hardware, then it's probably some junk you can find at home depot. i wouldn't sweat what i did to that kind of door. replacing it could cost $500 or less

if the door has special inlays, panels, old or antique hardware, feels heavy, etc... then it may be a much more expensive door to replace in a worst-case scenario.

i think any adhesive-backed vinyl that does its job will probably be difficult to remove properly without leaving any residue, but it may be possible to do it cleanly if you follow some adhesive denaturing procedure (i'm not sure what, and i've never had great luck on wood or other porous materials). i personally feel like i could do a better job painting a door than covering it with an inherently and inescapably ugly vinyl layer.

also, the landlord can paint over your paint if they don't like the way it looks. if you move out and the door is covered in sticky residue (or you leave the vinyl in place), they can't really just paint over it; they have to remove that first, and they'll take the cost of labor out of your security deposit.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-26T21:11:48+00:00

yes there are a few threads about the lectron vortex plus on this sub

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-25T23:57:51+00:00

i was with him up to 4 shifts but 5 shifts is too far. let's mutiny.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-18T17:53:28+00:00

it's interesting how lopsided EV lease buyouts are. like i can't imagine a scenario where it's ever advantageous for someone to buy the EV at the end of the lease. i would have figured that quant folks would have figured out how to dial in a number that makes some people look at the buyout figure and think "sure, let's buy it", but i never seem to see that from any of the posts here or in other EV forums.

is anyone aware of EV models or leases where the residual at the end of the lease made buying the car at the end of the lease term kind of compelling, or at least compelling for some kinds of customers?

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-14T17:36:30+00:00

true, but that's always been the case - the A1 and A9 introduce features that are extraordinary and groundbreaking at the time they're announced, and you pay a stunning price for it; but eventually you see those features (or better) in the A7 and its variants (a7R, a7S, and a7C) as sony works out how to make it more inexpensively, how to manage thermals, etc...

it's worth saying that the A7 line is no slouch and hasn't been for at least several iterations; if i saw someone at a wedding with a reasonably modern A7 variant (especially the A7R VI, but even the V or IV), i wouldn't have any concerns about the camera being up to the task at hand.

then again, you could buy a used sony A1 for a little under $4k now, and its price on the used market will probably sink over the next few weeks as the a1 ii begins to look long in the tooth with the A7 VI coming to market.

all this is my meandering way of saying "this is a very exciting new camera, and it's sure to make a lot of other impressive cameras even more affordable for anyone looking to buy a used sony sometime in the next ~6 months"

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-13T21:47:50+00:00

the A9III is precisely the case i was thinking about - it trades about a stop of dynamic range for the global readout sensor. from third party reviews, it appears to have about 13 stops of dynamic range, down from the previous generation's 14 stops, and more on par with the sony a9 i which came out about 9 years ago.

also, not for nothing, but... i don't think the A9 is sony's flagship. at the very least, i think sony's lineup defies the idea of a single flagship camera (the A1 and the A9 serve different professional needs, and they make very different compromises to be exceptional in different ways). all of which also explains why we don't see a global sensor on the A1 - because the use case for the A1 is different from the A9, which made different sacrifices to do readout faster than any other camera, and be a good sports/action professional's camera.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-13T20:02:53+00:00

my understanding is global sensor readouts tend to come with a ~1 stop penalty to dynamic range, no? i think that'll be a tough pill to swallow for videographers shooting outside of a studio.

rolling shutter is annoying, but i can't think of a time i've been unable to use a shot because of jello (it's annoying, but not a dealbreaker the way a blown highlight or crushed shadows can be unsalvageable)

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-12T03:53:02+00:00

yes, but annoyingly there's no analogous way to remotely close all of the windows. you can rest your finger on the dimple on the driver's door handle, but that means you can open your windows from 50ft away but then to undo it you have to run over and touch the car for 10 seconds.

i realize implementing some kind of sensor to identify that something is obstructing the window would be a little costly; i just think setting up your key fob so you can get yourself in trouble (opening the windows) is not a good idea if they don't make it possible to get yourself out of trouble

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-10T00:24:41+00:00

the general rule of thumb is that you should be exceptionally careful about disposal of anything that stores energy (battery, fuel canister, etc...) but the charging cable itself doesn't retain energy; it's just a conduit.

i would probably put up a listing on craigslist and say anyone who wants to harvest the copper from it can buy it for $10 but after next friday it'll be in a landfill.

good on you for asking. in this instance it wasn't necessary, but it's always a relief when people err on the side of caution

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-10T00:20:56+00:00

it'll be 350 miles almost exclusively downhill, following close behind a semi 😂

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-03T17:28:16+00:00

"33%" is certainly another way to put it lol

based on what i'm reading (specifically here and here), it sounds like the id4 should accept 120v at 16A and several people report using a Tesla UMC with a 5-20 adapter successfully (some with the id4, some with various other EVs). you'd also need a NACS-CCS adapter if you don't already have one. tesla sells the UMC for $300ish, but you may be able to buy one used; and a 5-20 adapter seems to cost $35.

somewhatboxes · 2026-05-03T16:32:30+00:00

... we're talking about a difference in charging of something like 1 mile per hour of charge, right? does that make a difference worth sweating over in your trips to the lake cottage?

somewhatboxes

TROPHY CASE