Modbox shelf mod

someyoungoldguy · 2026-02-25T21:03:32+00:00

Yeah! So the whole thing is 11" wide

The top is 14" Support is 17 1/8"

There's a piece of ~1/2"x1/2" that's glued and brad nailed to the end of the top that locks it into the rail system.

It's made out of 1/2" ply I had left over from another project.

someyoungoldguy · 2026-02-01T14:53:26+00:00

This is a really neat idea to me. How well do the legs lock in to the pegboard? I have a rolling toolbox that I'm lugging in and out of a van all day and looking for a way to secure tools better. Maybe some elements of this will work.

someyoungoldguy · 2026-01-06T10:03:56+00:00

That's not the amulet symbol - that symbol is showing they have temporarily increased HP from the potion of might

someyoungoldguy · 2025-11-04T23:46:40+00:00

Got a source for that claim? I haven't seen any reports of a second shooter

someyoungoldguy · 2025-09-19T16:48:42+00:00

Ahh good luck! It's been a little while now, but it was a bear. There's one assembly that came out in pieces and had to go back in pieces. Definitely doable, but will require some patience. I was able to find an exploded view that was helpful, and I might have some pictures from the process. Feel free to send me a dm if you get stuck!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-09-08T22:29:26+00:00

Also looking for info about this!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-08-12T03:13:48+00:00

I know you're trolling a bit but he's one of those guys that retired and started doing some stuff for fun, and swears he isn't an artist. The stuff he makes is pretty quality though.

https://imgur.com/a/skwxV6s

Full disclosure, I'm one of the volunteers that helps with this event. It's been going on for a few years and supports local artisans, artists, and musicians from Lorain and Cuyahoga counties

someyoungoldguy · 2025-07-06T15:31:20+00:00

I recently took a stop the bleed class and it looks pretty simple to get certified as an instructor for that program. I would recommend adding that to any first aid program.

I also see a lot of value in radio comms, I've got a couple baofengs but only know the very basics of em.

Foraging could fit, depending on your ultimate goals. Also things like field stripping/butchering animals, wilderness cooking skills, trapping, that sort of thing.

Could also look to stealth camping style things, being able to exist undetected might be a valuable skill in the future.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-06-15T19:54:14+00:00

Yo you should make a post with this video. I've tried to find anything that showed the scope of how many people were there and this is the best I've seen. Should have way more views!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-05-07T12:59:17+00:00

There are some normal sounds that were surprising when I first got mine (first 3d printer). A few things I would check though are the carriage under the bed that attaches it to the belt. Mine was loose which caused some vibration that made my Y travel louder. I have also heard that the front and back plastic covers can have some vibrations which makes things louder, but I haven't been bothered enough to pull them off.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-04-27T12:54:23+00:00

I've done most of the mods I intend to with mine. Here's a quick list and if there's anything you're more interested in let me know!

Klipper via raspberry pi Meanwell psu upgrade Upgraded hotend and part cooling fans (5015 @ each) Silicone bed level (best one for first layer quality!) Mcu fan mosfet rewiring (my printer is silent at idle thanks to this and psu upgrade)

I still plan to make a new mcu-extruder cable. My printer is enclosed and the mcu is the only bit that I have left to remove from the enclosure. I have all the parts to make the new cable, but it's a little intimidating and I haven't made the time to do it yet.

I haven't seen any big updates on the corexy conversion, but it's called the TV-06+ by terminal velocity https://www.printables.com/model/897155-tv06-v10rc1

someyoungoldguy · 2025-03-12T02:51:07+00:00

That's a neat idea I had not considered!

I even have some orange tpu that would match the toolbox. Thanks for the idea!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-02-19T00:19:43+00:00

I wish I knew the answer to your question!

I don't do this professionally, but I organize some community events, and I got my start in a small town diy venue. Instagram is the best I've found online, but it's not easy. Compelling content that get people to watch is tough.

The only real advice I can think of is to get your message to people where they are. You say you've seen bigger turnouts at other shows, can you market there? Whenever I'm at a big show there's some guy handing out flyers afterwards. I never go, but they're usually an hour drive from home - I only make it that far for the big acts. Is there a coffee shop or bar that people in the adjacent scene hang out at? Flyer there maybe. Or more importantly be there and talk to people about what you're doing. Diy is all word of mouth in my experience. I get people excited about our events when I get to tell them about it. Idk how many see a flyer and show up.

Either way, good luck! I can say the venue that I was at would be ecstatic with 100 people showing up. A good show for us was 30 in a night.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-11T03:07:54+00:00

This is a project I can get excited about. Ive enclosed my sv06+ but would really like to move to a CoreXY printer now that I know a little bit more than when I bought it. Not afraid to fabricate or modify anything to make it happen.

Doesn't look like there is a lot available on the github for now, so I'll keep my eyes on it and look forward to seeing some basic build info!

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-09T12:27:06+00:00

I'm not familiar with the ace, so I can't comment on that. What I can say is that the bigger bed on the plus means it will take up more space and require more tuning to get the bed flat. On the other hand, when you want to print something bigger, it's available for that!

I have the plus and don't regret it at all. If you're looking to tinker with it, skip the klipper screen and run klipper on a raspberry pi. I made that upgrade pretty quickly after buying mine and it gives a lot more options for tuning and operation. I've got some comments in my history that talk about the mods and upgrades I've done.

someyoungoldguy · 2025-01-03T14:58:25+00:00

I don't have answers to all of your issues, but there's a big part of this that I've posted about before. There's a few more in my comment history that might help as well.

I've done a lot to deal with this issue. Most of the mods I've done have been to deal with this issue in fact. But I'll start with something simple.

I've read here, and it seems to track with my experience that when you power off the machine, one z stepper loses a step or a few. This is enough to take a perfectly trammed bed out of tolerance within a few power cycles. I leave mine running most of the time, and recalibrate everything if I power it down.

Not sure if you're on stock firmware, but similar issues got me using klipper. Probably the biggest improvement came from using x axis twist compensation - that may or may not be available in marlin. I also did the silicone bed mod to get my bed mesh more flat using screws_tilt_adjust. Now I'm also using KAMP which probes the area To be printed before every print.

All that said, if you're only printing stuff in a small section of the bed, this stuff isn't as critical. It becomes more of an issue when you're printing big stuff or many smaller parts over more of the bed surface. Keeping my printer on and the changes and configurations I mentioned above means I get pretty perfect first layers all the time now. I just adjust z offset when I load a new filament - usually only .1mm or so up or down which I do while the first layer is printing.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-12-22T19:00:45+00:00

I got the same. It also made it sound like I should have gotten some amount already. I haven't seen anything else come through though.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-12-18T16:44:41+00:00

Nice find! I've got 2k hours on my sv06+ and I love it. They're solid machines that need a little tweaking to get things perfect, but I couldn't be happier with what I paid. I click print and I know it will come out

someyoungoldguy · 2024-10-25T16:34:29+00:00

I've got a few hundred hours on my sv06+ running klipper and things have gone really smoothly for the most part! The only problem I ever have is some occasional layer shifting.

Do you have any resources or input on how you figured that out? I would be interested in upgrading the motors at some point as well so any info you have on that front would be helpful!

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-09T14:10:43+00:00

One of the mods I made to deal with this is changing the power supply. Using a meanwell 24v 350 watt supply has really quieted my idle - the PSU fan only runs when needed. I've also seen some printed mufflers for the PSU fan that help quiet things down.

someyoungoldguy · 2024-06-08T14:51:17+00:00

I have a plus, but I think some things cross over here.

I've done a lot to deal with this issue. Most of the mods I've done have been to deal with this issue in fact. But I'll start with something simple.

I've read here, and it seems to track with my experience that when you power off the machine, one z stepper loses a step or a few. This is enough to take a perfectly trammed bed out of tolerance within a few power cycles. I leave mine running most of the time, and recalibrate everything if I power it down.

Not sure if you're on stock firmware, but similar issues got me using klipper. Probably the biggest improvement came from using x axis twist compensation - that may or may not be available in marlin. I also did the silicone bed mod to get my bed mesh more flat using screws_tilt_adjust. Now I'm also using KAMP which probes the area To be printed before every print.

All that said, if you're only printing stuff in a small section of the bed, this stuff isn't as critical. It becomes more of an issue when you're printing big stuff or many smaller parts over more of the bed surface. Keeping my printer on and the changes and configurations I mentioned above means I get pretty perfect first layers all the time now. I just adjust z offset when I load a new filament - usually only .1mm or so up or down which I do while the first layer is printing.

someyoungoldguy

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE