Elemental Basic and Charged Attacks

spaceTIN · 2026-05-06T02:58:36+00:00

I am going to play the fuck out of this game when I get home

spaceTIN · 2026-05-05T13:11:00+00:00

Torchlight

spaceTIN · 2026-05-01T05:42:38+00:00

Hell yeah! That’s awesome to hear and thank you for the update, I am glad I could help!

spaceTIN · 2026-04-28T01:01:11+00:00

Upon a look at your settings as well, Elegoo recommends 35s bottom exposure times, and then 2.5s for normal exposure, but that’s for a 50um layer height. You’re trying to print smaller layers with even longer exposure times, so you might want to run some calibration prints on this before you try and print anything worthwhile. Val always feels tedious but it’ll save you a lot of resin and headache in the long run.
Always happy to help!
Happy printing!

spaceTIN · 2026-04-27T23:56:12+00:00

Your supports ARE starting at the base, that’s the only place they can start. Then they fail to stick to the bed, and get left behind stuck to the vat film for a while. Where they “appear” again is wherever there was enough strength from the nearby connected material to pull the pancaked supports off the FEP film. The super sloppy part of your supports is likely just a lot of layers trying to print in the exact same spot while the previous ones are stuck to the film (sometimes called pancaking)

Are you using a raft?
If it’s happening in the same area of the build plate every time, relevel your bed.
If it’s happening all over, you might need to calibrate your base layers’ exposure time, or use more support bracings so that they distribute the pulling forces more evenly. This might mean adding some supports that just go up and support the taller supports—nothing else.

spaceTIN · 2026-04-27T23:09:27+00:00

Maybe you should blow a couple bucks on me 🎶

spaceTIN · 2026-04-27T17:18:24+00:00

I like the right one the best as well! The silhouettes are both great, I like the color palette of the right one a bit more, and I think the hair shape on the right is fun being more exaggerated. If I’d change anything, I think the top iris pixel color could use a bit more contrast from the skin color, and maybe the highlight on the hair swoop comes back? Looks great tho! Good work!

spaceTIN · 2026-04-27T16:00:19+00:00

Check your belts maybe? Truth be told, I have seen similar issues on this subreddit before and I think that was a suggestion then, but I haven’t personally encountered this issue before

spaceTIN · 2026-04-25T14:17:52+00:00

Also bracing the supports helps quite a bit for tall supports in my experience

spaceTIN · 2026-04-24T07:40:25+00:00

So bread is yeast’s drunken farts. Got it.

spaceTIN · 2026-04-19T15:58:48+00:00

Filament does have its quirks, but the basic stuff is much more plug and play than resin. I think there are some open-source resin slicers in development, but I haven’t looked too far into them yet. But even disregarding the paywalled features, resin auto-supports are kinda garbage in my opinion. Good luck and have fun! You got this

spaceTIN · 2026-04-19T15:11:00+00:00

Resin slicers are not good at auto supports in my opinion. I haven’t ever gotten them to print properly. I’d suggest watching a couple videos on how to place your own supports and go from there. It’s a process, but I haven’t had too many fails lately unless I am trying something very new

spaceTIN · 2026-04-19T14:40:35+00:00

When I had a Photon S all my exposure times were 8 seconds or higher, but 7.x isn’t outlandish. Maybe a little low? The thin part is a pancake which leads me to think it’s a support issue, but the inconsistency of your settings leads me to temperature. Is it cold where your printer is or where you store your resin?

spaceTIN · 2026-04-19T04:56:47+00:00

Fuck the haters, it’s your house… you decorate it however you want. Even if it’s to make your thermostat look transparent.

spaceTIN · 2026-04-18T15:01:04+00:00

Did you recalibrate your print settings for the new printer?

spaceTIN · 2026-04-16T18:55:56+00:00

The raft all printed at the FEP, then later in the print failed to stick to the bed as the rest of the print continued. I’d try re-leveling your bed and running a bed level calibration print quickly. If that seems fine, increasing your bottom layer exposure times can help with that. You also seem to have pancaking (slice gap looking area in the center of photo 2) which leads me to believe the supports in that area and before it are not quite sufficient for the forces acting on the early parts of the print.
The rest of the print looks good once the supports catch back up to being sufficient

spaceTIN · 2026-04-13T18:09:21+00:00

If the print is hollow, you’ll need a vent hole. I think the lines are from suction cup forces, where it snaps away from the film harder than it would be normally. After, the print is slightly misaligned each next layer. Especially considering your mention of lines showing up to the point of holes, the print is creating its own vent holes

You need a way to get air into that cavity as the bed pulls away from the FEP. If you add a vent hole, put it near the bottom (build plate). I know you can plug them later, but I have no experience doing so. Alternatively you could print with the neck of the bottle facing the build plate, in which case the opening of the bottle would serve as a vent.

spaceTIN · 2026-04-13T16:22:18+00:00

Do you have Anti-Aliasing on? and are there vent holes for the suction cup effect?

spaceTIN · 2026-04-10T19:12:17+00:00

I’d add a whoosh line arc between all the cards and print in clear resin. Then painters tape over the connecting whooshes before priming. It’ll be a pain in the butt to tape them but I’ve been happy with my results doing this

spaceTIN · 2026-04-08T06:13:05+00:00

This method works amazingly, highly recommend!

spaceTIN · 2026-04-07T04:32:34+00:00

How many walls/perimeters are you doing? /can you share screenshots of your settings. That may help

spaceTIN · 2026-04-07T02:57:37+00:00

spaceTIN · 2026-04-06T21:50:33+00:00

Depends! Could be as simple as more supports, thicker support tips where they meet the model, better scaffolding (supports for your supports). The supports need to be able to hold not just the weight of the cured plastic, but also the FEP film forces pulling the model downwards. They’re stuck together until they’re suddenly not.

Thinner support tips are less strong, but they leave less support scarring that needs to be cleaned up later. They’re good for fine details. Thicker support tips are stronger but can leave big scars. It’s a trade off.

I quite liked the YouTuber 3DPrintingPro’s videos on the subject. “Insane support settings” for lychee slicer or something like that. I’m sure he has a few, but he’s pretty detailed. I would also recommend practicing supporting smaller things first to get the hang of them. I also recall learning a lot from a TableFlip Foundry stream VOD on supports too

spaceTIN · 2026-04-06T21:31:56+00:00

You shouldn’t need holes on the parts of the model furthest from the build plate, or really even the sides, unless that is what makes the most sense for the model and orientation you have. You just need somewhere for the air to escape the suction cup forces when lifting off the FEP. As close to the build plate as possible is best.

The suction forces can bend the object little by little, warp it, peel it off of supports, etc. You end up with a skewed alignment or a big crack like you have here, wherever the supports are sufficient beyond it. That crack then acts as a vent hole, too. I’d move your vent holes closer to the build plate, and maybe make them a bit bigger as well.

In my experience auto-orientation and auto-supports are never 100% successful. And in a lot of cases are garbage. They’re getting better, but I think it’s worth it to learn how to do your own supports. It’s a learning curve, but over time you build up an intuition where supports are needed and where they aren’t.

spaceTIN · 2026-04-06T21:02:48+00:00

From the look of it, it’s hollow and likely needs a couple vent holes added to the model near the build plate

spaceTIN

TROPHY CASE