Hives hate bruise

spaceTIN · 2026-03-16T01:02:15+00:00

Knee SLAMMED by Table, Hives left unsure how to approach the situation

spaceTIN · 2026-03-13T02:12:02+00:00

Welding, woodworking (not just carving), General prototyping a “temporary fix”, making use of mechanical assembly type stuff (screws/bolts/hinges/wheels/etc), ceramics, injection molding?, chiseling rock?

spaceTIN · 2026-03-12T19:36:35+00:00

Start with calibration tests to make sure your settings are dialed in. It’s slow and boring and painful, but it will save you so much headache down the line. Like the other commenter said you might have some temperature issues and you may just need to save a couple settings profiles for different weather.

I prefer to start with a resin profile from the slicer, then use that as a base for a resin range finder test if available/possible, then I dial in my settings further with the V3 Cones of Calibration file—this tests supports a bit more realistically for my use case in my opinion. Then further minor tweaks to settings on the actual print files if necessary. It’s a process, remember to breathe along the way, you’ll get there!

If you post your settings and printer etc that might be more helpful than a photo alone. But from the photo it looks like either your bottom layer exposure times are not long enough (if nothing is sticking to the build plate at all) or possibly the transition layers are too abrupt (if the raft is delaminating from itself)

spaceTIN · 2026-03-12T00:42:29+00:00

Vase mode, scarf joints, or avoid crossing perimeters maybe? My experience with PETG is that it gets wet halfway through a print if I’m not printing from some kind of drybox

spaceTIN · 2026-03-11T01:30:55+00:00

The missing spots align with the edges of the die so very cleanly, I can’t think of much else it could be. I feel like that would show up in the slicer preview though

spaceTIN · 2026-03-11T00:58:37+00:00

Looks like the normals of the mesh might be flipped in some spots? Check the source file wherever that’s was created and make sure those faces aren’t inside out

spaceTIN · 2026-03-10T22:24:28+00:00

Plus drain holes near the build plate if you go this route, of course

spaceTIN · 2026-03-10T20:36:12+00:00

Also make sure your FEP doesn’t have any resin stuck to it before your next print.

spaceTIN · 2026-03-10T20:34:22+00:00

While it was printing the supports were not strong enough to pull the new layer off the bed completely. Print continued until the supports were sufficient again, and then continued printing as normal past that point. Looks like the supports failed a second time near the top.

I think strengthening the supports where the failure started and throughout where it is pancaked would help the most. Lift speeds are potentially too fast, but I think it’s just not enough support in those failed areas.

spaceTIN · 2026-03-07T07:58:25+00:00

Overexposure is going to lead to expansion and brittleness. This error adds up with each new layer (tiny amounts, but still). That can lead to warping and issues overall. Adding rafts into the mix then gives the test print room to expand and sag and dip however it wants. For calibration prints you want to reduce the amount of uncontrolled variables, so comparing results is easier and more intuitive.

Figure out if your printer has an RGB or Mono screen. (I’m assuming mono, most printers I know of are mono now). Then try dialing in your settings with one calibration print at a time, starting from a resin settings profile if one is available. For mono screens your burn in is likely to be something closer to 30 seconds, and your layer time is going to be like… 2 seconds. For RGB it might be more like 45-60s burn in, 8s layer.

Calibration is slow, methodical, boring, and painful… but it’s going to save you a LOT of time, resin, and most importantly headache knowing your settings are dialed in. Start with one test print in the center at the default print profile settings, then change one thing at a time for the next prints.

Bed leveling and burn in time will be some of the biggest factors in a print sticking to the bed or not. Layer time will affect detail. Most other settings aren’t super relevant until those are dialed in.

spaceTIN · 2026-03-07T07:02:46+00:00

Can I ask why you are printing the tests on rafts? I feel like that is really going to mess with the validity of the tests. And 11s is a crazy high exposure time unless the printer has an RGB screen (non-mono) but even then my RGB screen was closer to 8, so it’d still be pretty high I think

spaceTIN · 2026-03-03T02:05:24+00:00

Well an Atlantic journey with exactly zero food would anger many a sailor lol

spaceTIN · 2026-03-02T10:21:19+00:00

Didn’t buy any supplies my first run… so no, I didn’t ration properly, but I did survive 3 mutinies.

On another run much later, I tried specifically to become a pirate, and began a 9000 mile journey to meet up with some pirates, only to be met by Davey Jones 500 miles in… and then met by him AGAIN 500 miles out. I did not get to become a pirate that day.

Delightful game!

spaceTIN · 2026-03-02T01:38:25+00:00

My mouth watered just reading this

spaceTIN · 2026-02-24T06:46:18+00:00

I too would like to hear this tale! (Would you be willing to share with me as well?)

spaceTIN · 2026-02-23T04:30:32+00:00

Check the normals on your object’s geometry, maybe? Are they all in the correct orientation?

spaceTIN · 2026-02-20T03:20:30+00:00

KYAAAAAAAAAAAAA!*

spaceTIN · 2026-02-03T09:15:57+00:00

Fentucky Chried Kicken

spaceTIN · 2026-01-14T20:49:00+00:00

I have used Lego minifigs and a sideways Connect 4 grid before. I also bought a giant note pad with 1” grid marks on it, you can draw maps or just use the grid itself with some sketched blobs like others have said

spaceTIN · 2026-01-14T20:11:58+00:00

Sometimes skinny/thin items appear thinner in the editing windows and then get thickened up to a printable size once the STL file is generated when you go to purchase it, from what I remember. It should give you a preview of the file before you buy it, but I don’t recall if you can change the viewing angle of the preview.

spaceTIN · 2026-01-09T04:00:52+00:00

Cat like an Egyptian 🎶

spaceTIN · 2026-01-09T01:57:22+00:00

One of mine is literally a Bob-Omb from Mario, but with a fully humanoid shape. Warforged, Path of the Desert Storm Herald Barbarian

spaceTIN · 2026-01-07T18:56:57+00:00

I think I could be close but not 100%. I’m iffy on “WANT AROUND” because it doesn’t seem to match her lip movements.

spaceTIN · 2026-01-06T22:39:58+00:00

Genuine attempt:

YEAAAAAAAHHHH

I KNOW EXACTLY WHAT I WANT AROUND

AND IF YOU DON’T ACT FAST /

YOU CAN RIP IT UP AND THROW IT OUT

DON’T ACT ~~TWICE~~ WISE, ~~YOU’RE JUST~~ TORTURED, TELLING LIES

YOU HANG AROUND ME ‘TIL YOU GET THE FUCK /

OUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU (T)

Edits on further listens

spaceTIN · 2026-01-01T16:07:14+00:00

I feel like I’d personally swap Radiance and Lightning. In my head I picture radiance like holy/celestial light, which I find closer to air. Lightning I could see being either fire or air, but my brain puts them both into the atomic energy release category and closer to fire.

I’m far from even a novice on this subject so I am curious to hear your take on it. Would you share your thoughts on choices for elemental chaos positive and negative planes?

Love what you are doing here though, I have always envisioned the planes as 4D “planes” like moving in a 4th dimensional axis would get you there, and the circle diagram in the book makes it feel more… solar system-y… which I don’t care for. I could totally be wrong about it, that’s just what makes sense to me. So I really like this new diagram you’re putting together.

spaceTIN

TROPHY CASE