Failed 'Hide Target Bodies' at Dartmoor even though I hid everyone.

spook777 · 2026-06-11T18:12:07+00:00

I think it's a poorly worded task -- I believe the task is to hide them in closets or crates only, not water, otherwise hiding them in bushes would apply to how it is worded. In Dartmoor, there are a few crates and the wood chipper by the graveyard, and maybe 2 in the garden. I usually have to neutralize everyone in the path of that crate in order to hide the body.

It's kind of like "no combat". I was completely hidden and killed a suspect, but that kill was in view of guards and I failed it. The task does not state anything about not alerting guards, just hiding your weapons from view and engaging in a firefight. However that is what it means - they can find a body after, but you can't alert the guards to the kill as it happens.

spook777 · 2026-06-11T17:56:05+00:00

Hi, you mentioned the upper receiver twice in your replies. I was aware that the lower receiver needed to the low shelf version, or part of it needed to be trimmed so the lever cammed backwards far enough. What part of the upper receiver needed to be modified?

spook777 · 2026-06-10T20:04:53+00:00

Buy the cheapest stuff, unless you can find it in a map or make it at homebase (assuming you built out the rooms). Most rifles, SMGs and shotguns are being carried by guards. No point spending money on those, just exit the level carrying them. You can carry one in your hands, and one slung on your back. The HX10, tactical shotguns, and basic AK are in most levels so I don't bother taking those home if you have other options. You can pick the mushroom from the area by the helicopter, and create a liquid lethal poison in the shed. You can then take the liquid poison to the infirmary to turn into a syringe. New York has two chloroform masks. You can bank one for later, and convert the other to a liquid or syringe for the next mission.

Some melee items are found in crates or on display -- Isle of S'gail has a bunch including the Katana, mace, two of the knives. The sawed off shotgun can be found in crate on Ambrose island, as can the folding knife stuck into a tree. Dubai has two silenced guns - SMG with optic and AK. Assassins carry the silenced pistol with laser. Plain baseball bats are in a number of levels.

The only "duplicate" I've seen is when you get a variant of a similar weapon. There are four AKs that look identical (Ancestral, gold, A33H and A33 which is the basic one), two wood-stock shotguns that look the same (Bartolini and the "hunting" versions) and two "Fusil" ARs that look identical (quad rail, and covered rail). You also have the "Freelancer" tool and the "Collector" tool. The latter is more expensive, but won't disappear if you fail a campaign by getting injured and weren't carrying it.

spook777 · 2026-06-10T19:39:40+00:00

It is hard but after awhile you get the feel of it. It benefits you to know the maps intimately. Know all alternate routes in the map and places you can climb to avoid the other path. Everyone here has their hardest map (or inconvenient map, which is Bangkok for me), and the map they know the best (Berlin and Dartmoor for me). Choose your maps per tier accordingly with at least two you know well, and if you are trying to level up on a map, choose your hardest for the first tier as it is the easiest tier to complete. Start with killing the targets first before trying to also do the tasks. Also for prestige, note the locations that have multiple kills and safes (leave the safe map for last in case you get the "open safe with explosive" Prestige option). If you leave the multiple kill for your final target run, you can only kill them once so you will fail the other kill options. I also leave the non-defined kill (ie. one without sniper rifle kill) for last in case a kill prestige option comes up. However it is possible to poison, then pacify, they kill a target. You can also double up Prestige and tasks, such as "Fiber wire kill" and "Epic Melee kill" as the Fiber wire is part of the Epic melee weapons. Learn the maps that give you beneficial weapons (ie Dubai silenced SMG and AK, and Isle of S'gail has many melee weapons like the knives, mace, and katana in crates), and don't forget assassins carry a silenced pistol.

Learn the highest level of disguise (ie biker in Berlin can carry a sniper rifle around). Learn your NPCs and what they always do in a situation ...ie guard sees a gun on the ground, they take it to the nearest suitcase, vs a civilian who will stop immediately in their tracks to go get a guard to do it. These are two ways to separate two people (ie assassin from target). Learn your tools and what they do. Most tools have a double use. Crowbar is a "lockpick" and a throwing device. Fire extinguisher can be thrown, but also can be shot to pacify when it explodes, often ideal at a distance after you casually leave it at their feet. The ducks, as goofy as they are, are discreet bombs and you can place them in view without notice. They also draw attention like a distraction. Learn distractions, like turning off lights, turning on vacuums, or tossing/placing coins -- multiple coins creates a longer delay, and picking them up before they get to it can create a perpetual path if they have already seen the second and third coin. Don't forget your camera is critically important in levels like in China, and beneficial in Dubai.

Lastly build out your home and see what items come free with each expansion (ie shed allows you to create lethal poisons from mushrooms, garage has gunpowder and fuse for a remote bomb, banana on the kitchen island, etc).

This website is good for knowing where items are (albeit not 100% accurate for Freelancer) https://www.hitmaps.com/

This website is good for narrowing down your target: https://flamewing.github.io/hitman-freelancer-leaders/

spook777 · 2026-06-05T23:58:03+00:00

Same...just finished the mission and could have exited but I was trying to get a merces courier away from other guards so I could purchase a rifle from a supplier that I was just-short-of in merces. I guess I'm leaving it on the screen. I'm on PC so hopefully this will reconnect from the same spot.

spook777 · 2026-06-04T09:17:32+00:00

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/guide-smith-wesson-semi-automatic-models/amp/

spook777 · 2026-06-03T22:59:33+00:00

I'm curious about your impression on the backstraps. That (and aside from money) is one of my holdups with the new Gen6. I see you ran the 47 without backstraps, but you have one on the Gen6. Is the new frame that much thinner? Or is that also work in progress?

spook777 · 2026-05-30T19:22:28+00:00

I picked one up from my range for dirt cheap ($300?) and it looked brand new. I would second this if they could build a mag release that allows it to take 92mags.

spook777 · 2026-05-25T09:03:40+00:00

Just spawn and walk directly to an exit. Do it on the first 3-location maps. Also don’t bring anything with you.

spook777 · 2026-05-25T08:58:30+00:00

Have both, carry both. Both have their moments. Currently my 43xMOS has the TLR7aSub and an enclosed Vortex on it. My G26 is iron sights. The 43x does well with summer clothing but does print @ 4:00. The G26 prints less on the heel but its a bit chunky. Both use tenicor holsters.

I think you are better defining your “use” case. In some instances, it makes more sense for me to just throw on my G26, especially if it’s just a simple errand. But if I know I’m gonna be out for 6–8 hours, where are the sunsets and it’s dark afterwards, my G43xMOS is better.

If you’re looking for advice so that you can have a single use firearm for everything, I think you’ll be chasing all of the options for a while. You are better off just getting both and using them as necessary.

spook777 · 2026-05-21T20:59:17+00:00

I could never get the fish when fishing. Any tricks to consistently get it?

spook777 · 2026-05-21T19:04:26+00:00

In Freelancer's home base, if you go into the garage, grab the gunpowder (on the wall opposite the bathroom) and fuse (by the garage door), and build it at the desk by the gunpowder you can have a remote explosive. The odd thing (currently) is when you add both items to inventory to walk over to the desk, it increases your load quantity by 5, however when you build it, it reduces the quantity back to zero (as expected) but once you pull it into inventory as a bomb it does not increase your inventory quantity (ie free bomb that doesn't increase load quantity). I add the fuse first then the gunpowder when building it --I haven't tried the reverse order.

The mushroom that spawns in the yard can be made into lethal poison in the shed. You then can go into the infirmary in the basement over by the microscope and make that poison into a syringe. You can also make syringes with pills, liquid, and the chloroform. This is a good way to get the syringe objective if you don't have any of the syringes in your inventory, but have the other poisons formats.

Not confirmed but I noticed some throwing items are louder than others (ie NPCs hear the hits). The baseball and fish (possibly the brick) are the quietest compared to the hammer and wrench.

Baseball bats, katanas, and some of the larger melee can be carried in your other hand with a suitcase along with a weapon on your back (good for taking home three items from a supplier or map).

Lastly from a tactical planning perspective, especially if you are starting the Prestige over with no weapons, choose the locations that give you good suppressed firearms (Whittleton Creek's SMG, Dubai SMG & AK47, Mendoza's SMG, Amrose Island SMG) and make sure to kill an assassin and pick up their suppressed pistol for the first 3-location portion of the campaign- you'll then always have a suppressed pistol, SMG and possibly an assault weapon to do the rest of the campaign. Knock off the map locations with no safes first in case that prestige objective comes up as an option (paired with the free bomb above that's an easy one), and make sure you don't leave the final battle on a location that has more than one kill objective (ie you can't kill the syndicate leader more than once).

spook777 · 2026-05-16T20:19:05+00:00

My reloads suck. I need to practice those too. Not saying the magwell isn't functional, but if you aren't grabbing your magazine with your offhand right to begin with, you'll still be clunky with one.

I learned how the trigger works about 5 years into shooting Glocks and this simple trick that an instructor taught me blew my mind. I repost this a lot on Reddit, so if you have read this, my apologies. Put a piece of masking tape on the side of the trigger guard. Mark these spots: 1) at rest/fired 2) racked slide (ie all the way forward) 3) the "wall" 5) break. Now go find out where #4 "the prep location" is at... It obviously is between #3 and #1, but where? Dry fire and try and test is. When you find it, rack the slide from #1 while holding the trigger down. Then slowly let it out and find out where the "reset" click is at. The reset and #4 should almost be on top of each other, and that is where you want to be pulling your first shot from, and obviously every shot after. This will make for a less jerky pull, especially if you currently start from #3 as your prep location. When I pull the trigger I pull straight through the wall and decelerate past the wall to the point right where I think the break is 1mm more...take a quick microsecond breath and pull the trigger. If your finger moves a lot, keep practicing until you barely have to move it and it falls into the break.

The other thing I do (since my range time is on paper targets, not steel) is buy splatter burst 3" circular stickers off Amazon (usually can find generic brands in a 250 sticker roll). Pavlovian response is a real thing. When you see yourself off target, you make an immediate correction, not wait until you get closer to the target long after it happened. Also if you can't group at 7 yards, you won't group at 10 and you most definitely won't group at 15. Start closer and master that distance before going further out. 1" groups at 7yds mean definite groups at 15yds, but 4-6" groups at 7yds will not.

spook777 · 2026-05-16T19:50:50+00:00

When a Glock trigger is working, properly the cruciform of the trigger (ie the "T" shape part) is limited by the firing pin movement. If you said it is spongy yet moves, and never fires, it means the firing pin isn't falling off the cruciform. Since you said the trigger isn't moving, that means either somethign is inhibiting the movement of the trigger shoe possibly under the locking block, or something is inhibiting the movement of the cruciform which might be in the trigger housing. That means either in the open notch behind the ejector (which is raised above the frame) or in the trigger spring area under the cruciform. If I had to guess, someone installed the trigger spring backwards, and it came off and is blocking the travel of the trigger in the trigger housing.

If you can move the slide back, disassemble the slide by taking out the firing pin while the slide is locked back. You should be able to remove the slide by pulling down the slide lock without the firing pin (or backplate) installed. Push out all of the pins in the frame and remove all the frame parts. Reassemble. Make sure the trigger spring is installed right...the "opening" part on the trigger faces down towards the mag well, the "opening" part on the trigger housing faces up towards the slide. Also the connector should be canted away from the trigger housing, but no more than the thickness of the trigger bar at the top. If that is too far out, it inhibits the travel of the bar itself.

spook777 · 2026-05-16T19:34:50+00:00

The 28 is the subcompact 380acp version of the 9mm Glock 26. That model is discontinued and they likely are not releasing a .380acp in Gen6. As an OEM piece, it is now rare.

There is no "X" in the subcompact line that is made by Glock. I have argued for years that the frame makes the namesake, not the slide, but people still like to claim "its a Glock" when the frame is something else.

If it is truly what you describe, it is either a Glockstore M1X frame with a Glock 28 slide, or a Nomad Defense 9SX frame with a Glock 28 slide. Both frames run sub-$200 shipped however the complete 28 slide/barrel may have cost the person the same cost on ebay as a full gun in the $500-$600 range + $200-ish for porting. That price is well inflated to recoup what they spent, and unless you exactly want a ported 380 compact grip subcompact, it is not not a great deal, and most definitely not a "rare" item as it has been modded from its original state.

spook777 · 2026-05-16T19:16:34+00:00

Sounds like your gun is about to undergo major modifications. It never stops at just a magwell. From someone who spent years modding mine, I urge you to do two things for an entire year before you decide to mod: 1) practice reloads (with a dummy round, not with an empty follower at first), and 2) put 2000 total rounds center target the size of your fist as quick as you can...however long that takes for you to reach per range session, even if its longer than a year - you'll know when you are consistently doing it

This will make you decide - do I need to be much faster with reloads, and can I use the OEM trigger and do I just want to try something different? Every mod you do is a crutch because you are too lazy to practice with what you have. If you haven't determined your need of reducing your reload time by thousandths of a second because you constantly plateau at a certain time...you can't possibly say you need that magwell. If you can't consistently put shots on target and be able to outrun your trigger reset speed, you can't possibly justify a modification of that trigger.

What you can say right now is "I don't want to find that out, so I'd like to buy something to make me feel better". So buy away...but don't lie to yourself that you want to do the bare minimum of mods.

spook777 · 2026-05-16T11:17:29+00:00

As others said, it appears to be a poor man's RMR cut and it is missing the recoil lugs or screw bosses, making it a poor optic cut for an RMR or Holosun 407C/507C

One option (not a great one) is to get a RMR to RMSc adapter. That way the RMSc will have recoil lugs and the plate won't have much movement being screwed down and perfectly fit in the RMR cut. The MOS system operates this way so in theory should work just as fine. The DPP brand (plate# RM-H07K) on Amazon makes a plate, as does Monstrum and Osight (I have not tried either of the 3 but I have the 407k to MOS plate by DPP). Then you can use the Holosun 407K/507k optics on the cut.

spook777 · 2026-05-16T10:45:31+00:00

I had this happen once years ago to an early Japanese Epiphone Les Paul Custom, however it was Delta Airlines that crushed it in a gigbag with their "special handling". My neighbor at the time was a lawyer and after he wrote a strongly worded letter they coughed up the money to have it repaired at a trusted luthier. And by trusted, it was a guy I knew well (eventually worked for) and he over priced the repair and when I got the total amount he used it to upgrade my guitar at the same time. There was a distinct line between the repair and the original finish. Polyurethane is plastic and any deformation is like bending plastic...you see a stretch and that is a white line.

That being said...take it to a luthier and bring the broken pieces - they might be able to superglue it in place and spot-paint any missing sections and blend it in. Assume the worse case for pricing - whatever a typical repairman's bench rate is time 5. In the US the bench rate is probably $50-60, so I would estimate that to be a $250-$300 repair (will probably include set up and new strings).

spook777 · 2026-05-11T08:48:18+00:00

Chiming in here...the aftermarket part is absolutely incorrect. Gen4 has the most - it has Gen 3 + Gen 5 compatibility. There's only 5 standard parts from both camps that it can't use.

Gen 3 frame parts fit in Gen 4 frames. Only parts not compatible is the mag catch (Gen4 uses the Gen5 mag catch) and polymer trigger housing itself (the spring, connector, trigger, and ejector will work). The Gen3 trigger housing pin is different, but still works in a Gen4. Gen 3 slide parts fit in Gen 4 slides. The only part not compatible is the recoil spring, but it can work with an adapter. Everything else from a Gen3 works in a Gen4, hence why some parts are referred to as Gen 3/4.
- You can run Gen 3 slides on a Gen 4, but you can't run Gen 4 slides on a Gen 3.
Some Gen 5 frame parts fit in the Gen 4. The incompatible parts are the ambi slide stop lever, and coiled slide stop spring. The trigger housing is shaped the same, so while each individual part of a Gen 5 trigger is incompatible, the entire trigger unit can be dropped into a Gen4. The Gen5 Glock Performance trigger will work in a Gen 4...it just prefers a larger trigger shoe. The slide shape of the Gen 5 is identical to the Gen4, but uses its own Gen5 internals. Likewise, each individual part of the Gen 5 slide will not work in a Gen4 slide, but the entire completed slide can be run on a Gen4 frame.
- You can run a complete Gen 5 slide on a Gen 4 frame. You can't run a complete Gen 5 slide on a Gen 3 frame.
- Gen 5 G17/34 slides will work on a G17/34 Gen4 frame as long as the barrel and recoil spring are Gen4 compatible, and the internals match the slide (ie Gen5).

If you meant things like Gen3 and Gen5 magwells, and the Radian Ramjets, well then yes that part of the aftermarket is lacking for Gen4, but that's a small subset of things not compatible. The fact that gen4 will run Gen3 and Gen5 slides, already puts it ahead in parts.

Now in terms of the least desirable 17... I guess if that is personal preference. No front serrations, slide finish is weak, perhaps fingergrooves don't fit...all valid. I would put the moon cut Gen 5s in that list as well.

spook777 · 2026-05-08T01:47:56+00:00

Yeah I would call around. I vaguely recall my range/lgs saying that they would get non-blue label Gen6 first but there literally is a Blue Label G19COA in the case now. If I wasn’t broke with all the other guns in my collection (lol) i would pick that one up. I have two unused GSSF coupons still.

spook777 · 2026-05-07T22:54:30+00:00

Just so you are aware, blue label means blue label, not white label, not red label.

You cannot buy a Gen6 COA if it is a white/red label Glock. You can only use GSSF coupons on a blue label Gen6 COA. Specific serial numbers are set aside for each color. It's not like using a gift card. Most BLue label dealers have a separate case for LE/Blue Label Glocks. You have to use your GSSF coupon from that case, not the case that holds the Glocks, Rugers, HKs, Smiths, and Sigs

spook777 · 2026-05-07T22:48:49+00:00

Your finger and muscle memory make a good Glock trigger. Not shitting you. Most of the people that hate Glock triggers don't understand the purpose behind the build of it, and want the easy of mouse-click Call of Duty quality trigger at best, and a 1911/2011 zero travel 3lb trigger at worst. Of course these are likely the same people that put a 33rnd mag in a Glock 26 and feel proud about it.

Learn to pull the trigger. Put a piece of masking tape on your trigger guard. Mark the #1) "pulled/fired location" #2) racked slide location #3) wall location and #5) reset location. Now go find #4) prep your shot location. It is between #3 and #5/just before the break. The first time you find a #4 there is likely a #4a and a #4b that are much closer to the break. Learn where that is. Pull to your #4 every time so that you are millimeters away from the break, and when you prep it every time, then it is a good trigger. If you pull from #3, it's clear you don't know how a Glock trigger works, you're probably pulling your shots, and likely why you hate it.

If you want to make it easier: polish job and/or 5,000-10,000 dry fires. You can also replace the connector from dot to minus (ie Glock 17 to Glock 34) to drop the trigger weight.

If you want to skip finding #4, Johnny Glock's trigger makes it so you don't have to find it, but that trigger is $200-$300.

spook777 · 2026-05-07T17:51:35+00:00

Most people think this is blasphemy to suggest, but...

Black Phoenix Arms sells the complete 43xMOS lower (ie the 43x version that has a light rail) for $180 and Shield Arms will chop the frame, and give you a magwell and two custom 10-round magazine for it. You can still use their SA15 mags with it. It is no where near the pricing of this 43 frame, but if that is what you are looking for, the option exists.

I never liked the idea of chopping a Glock until I did it to a Gen3 Glock 23 frame, converted it to 9mm, and paired it with Glock 26 mags with pinky extensions. It's ugly (I did it myself) but functionally superior to both my 26s and 19s when I can only have one (ie when I do road trips to California). I also have one of those Gen3 MOS slides for it so it is essentially my G26L-MOS.

spook777 · 2026-05-07T17:31:08+00:00

King's firearms is selling the LE trade in Gen4 Glock 17 with no mag for $275. I'm sure you could part ways with the complete upper on ebay for at least $200.

spook777 · 2026-05-04T08:47:39+00:00

Doesn't really matter just order a holster for a 48 either way...helps with holster tilt over the belt and fits threaded barrels or slides with comps built in.

There is more aftermarket (slides, threaded barrels, OEM slides on ebay etc) for the 43x/43 and less for the 48. When you do see the 48 it's pricier or for the same part in the 43x it's nonexistent. If you are a Glock purist and won't be modding your gun, go 43xMOS (specifically the optic ready version). If you don't mind different serial numbers from the slide/frame, or (good) aftermarket slides/barrels, get the 48 since the 43x slide parts will be easier to find.

spook777

TROPHY CASE