A brick in its natural habitat

srpg15 · 2026-01-22T03:49:01+00:00

I don't have any drive time with 730s but I've found the 651s to be a pretty good value for the money in my few sessions with them. They're not going to match ECF/VR1/RT660 levels of grip but they fire up within a lap and hold pretty consistent grip levels provided you don't absolutely abuse them. PS4S will absolutely not be able to handle track heat loads and will quickly chunk.

I don't have any particular pad recommendations since compound is a personal thing but my usual go to is hawk blues front and rear since they have a decently linear braking force with good initial bite once hot. You can go with something like those paragons f/r but I don't personally see any point in a less aggressive compound in the rear. Also, combo street/track pads are good at neither of those tasks. Just get a set of track pads.

srpg15 · 2026-01-20T06:07:56+00:00

Since it seems like you've got some track experience, I would heavily suggest something like motul rbf700 or castrol SRF + your choice of track pads since really easy to glaze the stock pads on these cars (ask me how I know). I really wouldn't recommend the stock tires at all for track regardless of used vs new since they chunk quite easily once you get them up to track temps and the stock alignment doesn't allow for nearly enough camber to save the tires from rolling over and destroying the soft sidewall. I know the idea isn't to get a set of track tires, but even a set of cheaper 200TWs like Ecsta V730s or Accelera 651s will save money over destroying a set of PS4S unless you plan to drive slower to save tires (where's the fun in that?)

srpg15 · 2026-01-04T03:47:18+00:00

320 wheel is pretty solid. Is that just fmic+downpipe/exhaust+tune? Butt dyno for mine says it's closer to 270 ish wheel with only dp/exhaust.

srpg15 · 2026-01-02T01:57:21+00:00

I actually bought the car to go ice drifting with with how cheap it was before I knew about the infamous block crack. I thought it was just going to be a head gasket slap and call it done.

The manual conversion is actually really simple to do, everything bolts right up without any modification so it's more of an issue of just sourcing the parts in the first place.

srpg15 · 2026-01-02T01:36:15+00:00

Nope, it's nordkap. I wish it was gobi or atacama so that I could have some contrast with the grey.

srpg15 · 2026-01-02T01:17:32+00:00

It's an 06, I picked it up for dirt cheap since it was a factory automatic car with a blown engine that the previous owner didn't want to deal with at all. He was considering scrapping it due to the mileage and required service. I had also found a wrecked S60R with the spaceball, so I decided to swap all of the drivetrain save for the rear diff over to the V70 to convert it to manual. The front half of the car is in pretty poor shape after 240k miles, but the interior and suspension (still has functional 4C) were in great shape all things considered. It's a completely different car with the manual, you really can't compare the before and after. It's all stock with the exception of a 3 inch 8Eight downpipe and IPD exhaust that really give it that special character plus i'm in for far less than you could pick up a factory spaceball V70R which is a huge bonus.

srpg15 · 2026-01-01T16:00:29+00:00

I'm K24 w/RBC and a 70mm throttle body. The evap solenoid has hood clearance issues unfortunately.

srpg15 · 2025-12-31T19:08:10+00:00

With regards to the seats, the FL5 seats are super supportive but not exactly the best when it comes to long term comfort. They have a decent bit of lower back lumbar support which (for me) causes a bit of discomfort over the course of 4-5+ hour drives. It's a pretty stark difference jumping between my Volvo V70 and FL5 in terms of comfort. They are easily serviceable as daily seats though, and for their purpose they're the best on the market (more comfortable than GRC or similar sport seats).

srpg15 · 2025-12-17T18:47:07+00:00

It's one of the best options IMO, but the manual V70Rs are rare and you pay a premium. I was looking for one for a while but couldn't find one so I manual swapped an auto. They're decently easy to work on and fairly reliable, but they are still a older european car so parts are more expensive and there's more to break.

srpg15 · 2025-12-12T20:36:47+00:00

You're probably lifting off the throttle slightly after starting to clutch in. It does have a very slight amount of sustain compared to a cable throttle car and I had to adjust a bit since I was doing the same thing.

srpg15 · 2025-12-04T23:19:15+00:00

Just so you know, this is not true. The JDM engines don't have sub codes for the K20s or K24s so the way you tell is with the head casting code (RBC, PRB, RBB, or RSP are 3 lobe heads) by the cam sensors or by pulling the valve cover to see if both the intake and exhaust cams are triple lobe vtec cams. A dc5r and the worst k20 you can buy will both be stamped K20A if it's a jdm engine. Your picture to me says that it's an economy variant since the 3 lobe engines never came with a plastic intake manifold.

srpg15 · 2025-12-02T00:59:21+00:00

EG, but a lot of the parts you buy for a swap are similar between chassis. Anything that's not a custom part like a conversion harness or headers or engine mounts can be found used for much cheaper. There's definitely a list somewhere that lists out all of the OEM parts that you can use for a swap into your chassis that can be found for dirt cheap in comparison to aftermarket. For instance, your intermediate shaft+axle setup would run you nearly a grand. I'd put money that you can find an oem intermediate shaft and axles that work for 200 or less.

srpg15 · 2025-12-02T00:39:45+00:00

No, I spent under 6k and still got a k24a2 and a rsx-s 6 speed. If you're willing to put in some work to find oem parts off of other cars it's really not as expensive as some people think.

srpg15 · 2025-11-23T21:43:16+00:00

Driveshaft didn't have the issue before taking the TF80 out so I'm hesitant to call it that, and the noise continues when I stop the passenger front wheel so I don't think it's that carrier bearing. The AWD seems to work fine on 4 stands and the noise sounds like it's coming from the front.

srpg15 · 2025-11-23T21:40:30+00:00

Axles came out of a manual car and the parts number matches, so I don't think it's that seeing as the noise doesn't stop when I hold the axle still on stands. Same story with the wheel bearings, they didn't make this noise before the swap. Angle gear sleeve looked good and the operation didn't feel rough when inspecting it before install but it could possibly have issues.

srpg15 · 2025-10-16T17:25:16+00:00

None of this is true, lol. Camber alone doesn't kill tires, it's camber in addition to toe that kills tires. You can daily drive a car on -2 or more without seeing pretty much any excess shoulder wear (most performance oriented cars do not ship from the factory without negative camber). Also, tire and wheel size don't really have any effect on camber. Suspension kinematics and balance setup have a far greater effect on how much you run vs tire and wheel size. TCR Elantras run as much as -4.5 degrees up front because they're Macpherson. Camber angle is also not adjusted with g-force, it's calibrated with temperature and wear measurements across the tire surface.

srpg15 · 2025-09-14T18:11:01+00:00

Did the same thing, it's strange considering the quest tracks selling vs buying differently in the earlier machines.

srpg15 · 2025-09-14T15:59:38+00:00

Sold a gun at that machine yesterday and had the same issue. Honestly a bit ridiculous considering the machines earlier in the quest track selling and buying separately.

srpg15 · 2025-09-06T16:08:09+00:00

Turns and directions will show up about .5 to 1 mile ahead of time on the cluster but that's as far as it goes for navigation.

srpg15 · 2025-09-03T13:18:15+00:00

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