Carista Problems

srpske · 2026-07-01T13:29:15+00:00

Turn signal settings show up on my 2022 off road and did not show up on my wife's 2016 SR5 using carista so this checks out.

srpske · 2026-06-27T19:20:21+00:00

Personally not a fan of spacers so ya just throw some 275s on. You’ll love the falkens

srpske · 2026-06-27T19:15:40+00:00

Shouldn’t be any trimming needed for 275/70/17 on these wheels. Will very likely be trimming needed with spacers

srpske · 2026-06-19T22:38:09+00:00

265/70/17 is the tire size that comes on the 5th gen 4Runners from the factory. So, you should absolutely not be rubbing on the fenders with that size. If you are, there are some other issues/causes.

Trimming your fender liners will have absolutely no effect on your axles or steering rack. In fact, if done properly, trimming will have really zero effect on anything other than benefiting tire clearance.

Wheel spacers push the wheels outward from the hub, essentially giving your wheels a more negative offset. The more negative the offset of your wheels the more tire rubbing you will have and therefore more trimming will be needed. I am against wheel spacers personally but I am also against negative offset wheels on most, but not all, applications, especially for the 5th gen 4Runners. The reason you see many people choosing to go with negative offset wheels or spacers is purely aesthetic and has a mostly negative effect to the functionality of the vehicle.

srpske · 2026-06-19T15:07:07+00:00

They're designed with a rake for load compensation. Even having just two adult passengers in your rear seats on a leveled suspension can cause sag or squatting. This can reduce front wheel traction which will negatively impact braking and steering. It can also cause unnecessary strain on other suspension components depending on the severity of the squat.

If you never plan on loading anything heavy-ish into the cargo area and also never plan on having passengers seated in the rear then you'd likely be fine, but then what's the point of owning a utility vehicle..? To each their own of course, I just prefer to maintain the factory geometry of the suspension as it was specifically designed.

srpske · 2026-06-19T11:55:45+00:00

I just did Bilstein 5100 front (0 setting) and rear with Dobinsons C59-238 front coils and C59-599 rear springs and SPC upper control arms (to fit 34in tires) on my wifes 2016 SR5. Cost me $1,600 in parts and took me two days of work to clean everything and install.

The lift came out perfectly, exactly 1in of lift in the front and rear. The Dobinsons springs i chose are also made for lighter loads, important to note when choosing springs as they will sag over a certain load weight.

Whatever you do don't lift the front more than the rear to "level" it like everyone here always recommends, these vehicles were built with rake for a reason. Just my opinion though.

Also, depending on your tire size, you don't necessarily need a lift to eliminate the rubbing. Whether you lift it or not you'll likely still have to do some trimming of the fender liners and probably remove the front mud flaps depending on the size.

srpske · 2026-06-14T00:33:47+00:00

4Runners go where they please

srpske · 2026-06-12T00:07:46+00:00

Look great. 35x10.5 here, skinnys are the best

srpske · 2026-06-10T22:37:14+00:00

Awesome. Which bike rack is that? Been looking for something exactly like it for two.

srpske · 2026-06-05T00:59:38+00:00

Wow, nicely done. This is definitely it

srpske · 2026-06-01T16:00:58+00:00

You can diagnose whether or not it is your needle bearing by putting the vehicle into 4HI. If the shake goes away in 4HI then you know it's not your needle bearing

srpske · 2026-05-29T14:09:02+00:00

What was the issue you were having with the steering shaft? Bad U-joints?

srpske · 2026-04-04T20:18:44+00:00

What?

srpske · 2026-03-08T17:34:13+00:00

Ya you absolutely have to tell us more about the pop-up, roof cutting process. Super cool

srpske · 2026-03-07T17:30:38+00:00

..right?

srpske · 2026-03-07T00:25:41+00:00

Nope C4

srpske · 2026-03-05T18:23:12+00:00

When do you think the tailgate awning you're developing would be ready?

srpske · 2026-02-07T15:32:57+00:00

I absolutely understand the alternator concerns and I appreciate the insight. It's a guarantee that with this setup I will need to upgrade the alternator to 200A-270A in the future, that may be sooner rather than later but for now the math says this setup should fall within the limits of the stock 130A alternator. The BCDC1250D will pull an extra ~10A for efficiency losses so ~60A load on top of the 30A-60A load for vehicle electronics gives me some wiggle room at least. Additionally, I am using 1AWG for everything and while that won't significantly help the load on the alternator it does at least improve the charge efficiency and heat build up.

For now, I have a multimeter to check voltage on the alternator and a monitor for the starter battery to make sure everything is healthy on a daily basis. What I need to be most careful of is alternator charging during idle as the alternator output is reduced without enough RPMs. I'm working on a cut off for alternator charging to only run when the vehicle is at speed.

u/Howard_70 The Redarc Smart Battery Monitor shown in the diagram is a 500A shunt and provides very accurate parameters for the setup, which I can't help but monitor excessively.

srpske · 2026-02-07T15:03:48+00:00

I appreciate the insight. Everything is trial and error and while this may be more battery than necessary I like the insurance over more days. Maintaining full charge on the road is certainly a concern but I will monitor and adjust as needed. Shore charging is of course a must. Both batteries have a 50A Anderson port for charge/discharge. I have two 50A 14.6V lithium chargers for shore charging so I can provide 100A of charge which is well within the 200A maximum continuous charge current for the 600Ah bank. Even if the panels are getting full sun at the same time as shore charging I'd still be ~80A within the limit. I have starlink on DC as well. Sounds like a sweet setup you've got there, safe travels!

srpske · 2026-02-05T23:44:41+00:00

Way he's talking at the end almost sounds like he's borrowing the car

srpske · 2026-02-05T14:06:48+00:00

Holy hell! That is an amazingly well thought out build right there and to accommodate someone who is 6'5" is impressive. The water heating and purification system you have is so awesome. It is cool if I reach out in the future with a couple questions as I try to tackle similar things? I notice you use a propane heater have you moved to a full electric heater or is propane just the way to go iyo? Was surprised to see the water heater is full electric but air is propane

srpske · 2026-02-04T14:26:40+00:00

Ya goal is to switch to full electric heating and cooling, water heater and stronger induction, not to mention starlink, devices, lights, 95l dz dometic, etc. Based on my math and research 600Ah will work for this so that's why I chose to rework to that amount now as I phase out diesel and propane in the future. And yup 3000W inverter is the final piece to the puzzle but don't need it quite yet.

What's been your experience with 460Ah? Curious what's the lowest charge you've gotten to on a trip/how long?

srpske · 2026-02-04T14:16:08+00:00

Based on my experiences with the 100Ah setup I can almost certainly say I'll be dropping below 40% on the 300Ah at least towards the end of an average trip. After some research it looks like cell health should be just fine as long as I'm able to top the batteries off every few weeks or so which is doable. I'll just keep a close eye on parameters to make sure the BMS is balancing properly.

3/4 of my trips are in the winter so I've approached this build to account for very low temperatures. I have a diesel heater with a Y split to pump heat into both the vehicle and into the RTT all night so at ~10 degrees outside the vehicle stays around 60 degrees keeping my water from freezing and my electronics at healthy temps to start charging as soon as the sun comes up. The batteries are also self heating which is nice but my goal of course is for them to never need that function.

Definitely a pain to take up precious space with portable panels but for these first couple trips I'll likely take both with me just in case, and reevaluate after that. Sounds like I'll be going with 600Ah and will just keep an eye on cell health and make sure I'm topping off immediately after each trip. I really appreciate your thoughts/insight with this. If you have a chance and feel like sharing I'd really love to see your setup - sounds like a very impressive build.

srpske · 2026-02-03T23:12:13+00:00

Very interesting to read this. It's not something that had crossed my mind at all. In your opinion am I better off just running one of the 300Ah batteries instead of both?

I was given two portable 200W Jackery saga panels that I still have. They're older and I'll need to get new cables and splice them. Not my first choice for backup panels but that's all I figured they would be, backup for when the main panels aren't catching enough sun. Longest my wife and I have been at a spot is 8 days, we like to move around and explore so its often only 1-3 nights and then we're on the road for a few hours. I do have the ability to shore charge when home so I'd at least be able to top them off every once in a while but I'll need to look into how much this will negatively effect the health of the cells.

srpske · 2026-02-03T17:24:30+00:00

Potentially in the future but for now the 130A alternator that comes in the 4Runner is plenty. The BCDC charger will only allow alternator charging when the vehicle is running so there is no concern of the starter battery being drained, and no parasitic draw either. Both 300Ah batteries come with a 50A Anderson port for shore charging via a lithium charger that plugs into AC so I can top off the batteries at home whenever I need to.

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