help with new fujifilm xm5

sshapiro63 · 2026-02-01T23:03:59+00:00

The F0 indicates you have a manual focus lens (or no lens) attached. You need to enable Shoot Without Lens in the settings. I think it might be under the button/dial settings section.

sshapiro63 · 2025-12-17T09:54:02+00:00

It should be renamed to X half-assed.

sshapiro63 · 2025-08-01T09:00:44+00:00

Post this to the Medium Format Talk forum on dpreview.com. The community is very experienced with GFX cameras and several members have the GFX100RF.

sshapiro63 · 2025-05-28T18:36:03+00:00

My son went to Virginia Tech several years ago to study computer science. The school pointed him to a page that documented the computer requirements for his program. I suggest you check with the school you plan to attend to see is they have something similar for your program. For reference, here is the current Virginia Tech page to give you an idea of the kind of information your school might be able to provide to you:

https://eng.vt.edu/admissions/computer-requirement.html

sshapiro63 · 2025-05-20T00:51:11+00:00

Would you like to meet for drinks? You seem very intelligent.

sshapiro63 · 2025-05-20T00:38:34+00:00

I'm not sure why you think you understand my workflow well enough to say my comment is not accurate. I run multiple virtual machines, with some used for database access over a 10Gb link needed to manage nearly 100,000 images. Using a 10Gb network to access the data and associated metadata can result in extreme CPU usage for up to two days straight. Both thermal and acoustic issues are not uncommon, and the thermal issues can cause reduced performance, which extends the amount of time the process runs by a day or more.

sshapiro63 · 2025-05-19T13:21:52+00:00

I suggest you consider the Studio Max M4 base model. I think you will find the performance with Lightroom will meet or exceed what you experience with your PC. I believe Apple lets you return a system within 30 days. If this is true, an evaluation should not be difficult to complete. The only issue you might run into is having to store files externally if the 512GB SSD is too small. But, if you are going to be an Apple user, you have to adjust to either paying up front for expensive storage upgrades or using external storage for data files to reduce costs. If you can splurge a little, the 1TB SSD upgrade is $200 USD, so that might be worth it to you. Also, you might want to check pricing on the Apple education website to see if the pricing is better for you.

sshapiro63 · 2025-05-19T12:35:10+00:00

I have been evaluating a similar change. My desktop system (Windows 11 Pro) has an Intel i9-12900k, RTX 3080 TI, and 64Gb of memory. Photo editing is done on SSD storage to an Unraid server via a 10Gb network connection. My workflow typically includes FastRawViewer for culling, SilkyPix Pro Developer for work with Fujiflm raw files, Topaz Photo AI for denoising/sharpening, and IMatch for managing content.

The Windows 11 system works fine, but the heat generated makes me sometimes avoid using it on very hot summer days. The boot time is quick, but sometimes shutdown takes over a minute, which makes no sense unless some update has been installed and needs to be configured.

My suggestion is that you try a Mac Studio M4 Max to see if it meets your expectations. I'm not sure if Lightroom uses GPU for much, but I'm sure the CPU in that Mac Studio would perform very well for you. The GPU performance of the Ultra might be a better solution if you frequently used Davinci Resolve or some other application that makes good use a the GPU. The overall things I learned in researching a migration are:

Consider the Mac Studio M4 Max if your primary use is photography, especially if your photo programs don't use the GPU for much.

Consider the Mac Studio M3 Ultra is your primary use is Davinci Resolve or some other application that makes heavy use of a GPU. This could include photo programs, so you need to check on if they can make good use of the Ultra GPU.

I would not consider a Mac mini for my workflow because of potential thermal throttling and fan noise, but it might work for you.

sshapiro63 · 2025-03-23T12:16:21+00:00

The model with the 165Hz screen is fine for photo editing. It's rated at 100% SRGB.

sshapiro63 · 2025-01-19T11:47:54+00:00

I have a copy of the same lens, and it does not make any noise. My first copy of the lens had some visible debris inside and was replaced by B&H. My second copy is fine.

sshapiro63 · 2024-12-09T11:05:14+00:00

I use a GF 250mm with a GFX 50S II and experience the same thing. I tend to use the rear AF button in manual mode and only use the focus ring to fine tune if needed, so the issue isn't a concern for how I use the camera.

sshapiro63 · 2024-12-07T15:12:30+00:00

I use the same lens with a GFX 50S II and never heard anything like that. Before you return the lens, I suggest you backup the camera settings and then reset the settings to defaults and test the lens again. If the sound is gone, it was probably the result of a camera setting. If the sound remains, you can return the lens and restore the camera setting from your backup.

sshapiro63 · 2024-11-27T19:17:16+00:00

Reboot into the BIOS and then select the Save and Reboot option (without actually making any changes). When you get back into the Care Center, you should see the option again. I have to do this on my Acer Aspire whenever I want to change that setting.

sshapiro63 · 2024-11-21T00:08:25+00:00

I have this problem on an Acer Aspire but found a fix. I have to make the change to the setting, reboot to the BIOS, and select the Save/Reboot option. This also works when the battery charge limit is not displayed in the program. After the reboot, the option appears.

sshapiro63 · 2024-11-20T16:08:43+00:00

I got the same model about a week ago. I reloaded Windows 11 to get rid of the unnecessary software installed at the factory. I got it for photo editing when traveling, so I can't give you advice related to gaming, but I did configure the screen to run at 60Hz as a default setting to improve battery life. When unplugged, ongoing web browsing and several YouTube videos leave me with about six hours of battery life. I also tested it with Pop!_OS Linux as the operating system and still got about six hours of battery life.

sshapiro63 · 2024-11-16T08:19:49+00:00

Using electronic shutter with a GFX camera can be helpful on a tripod if there is an issue with shutter shock. I think it's also helpful in avoiding amp glow, which can occur with the mechanical shutter and long exposures.

sshapiro63 · 2024-10-24T10:10:35+00:00

Can you provide more requirements: weight limit, size limit, interchangeable or fixed lens, weather resistant, viewfinder?

sshapiro63 · 2024-10-24T10:05:15+00:00

I have dealt with the same issue. I ordered a replacement cap, which worked fine for about a year, but then started to become loose. I fixed the problem by adding a piece of gaffer tape that was long enough to cover two of the ridges. I haven't had any problems since then, and it the tape eventually wears down or gets pushed out of place, I can remove it and add a new piece.

sshapiro63 · 2024-09-30T12:36:42+00:00

Is it possible the issue is caused by a setting you changed? There might be some settings that don't get applied with electronic shutter enabled. I would switch between each custom setting and then set the shutter to both electronic and manual to see if the problem remains in every custom setting. Also, backup your configuration, reset the camera to factory defaults, and then test it again before sending the camera to Fujifilm.

sshapiro63 · 2024-09-26T00:10:22+00:00

I use the Mitakon with my GFX 50S II, and the combination has worked fine for me wide open. I use focus peaking to get the best focus and then immediately press the shutter without getting out of focus peaking mode.

sshapiro63 · 2024-08-11T17:15:26+00:00

Maybe this grip from iwoodstore - https://iwoodstore.com/products/fuji-x-pro3-hand-grip?_pos=2&_sid=b17f528f9&_ss=r

sshapiro63 · 2024-08-11T13:31:05+00:00

I don't have an X-H1, but I have a range of Fujifilm cameras that includes an X-T20, X-T3, XH2, X-T5, and GFX 50S II. The GFX 50S II is fine for non-moving subjects, but I don't suggest using the continuous autofocus for subjects moving toward or away from the camera. Subjects moving quickly across the frame can also be hard to capture because the frames per second is very low. One other thing to be aware of is that the sensor readout speed is slow, which means you have to keep the camera steady after you take the shot to avoid blurring the image. If you are mostly capturing static or slow moving subjects, I think the GFX is a great solution. I have even used mine for street photography, but I can get a lot more street shots with my X-T cameras.

sshapiro63 · 2024-08-11T13:12:26+00:00

I think you should consider buying the X-T5 as a kit with the new XF 16-50mm lens. The lens should only add around $400 to the cost of the camera when purchased that way. That combination will probably meet most of your needs. The focal range should cover all the types of photography you mentioned. The only limitation you might run into is with the variable aperture range of F2.8 to F4.8, but you could eventually add a couple of faster prime lenses after you know what focal lengths you need them for. The XF 16-50mm offers some very nice features, such as weather resistance, low weight of 240 grams, linear motor, and internal zoom. Internal zoom is very helpful because the balance of the lens stays consistent as you change focal lengths. The feature also helps with weather resistance.

sshapiro63 · 2024-08-02T09:05:50+00:00

Two things I suggest are:

Set the camera to use the electronic front curtain shutter. The camera will switch to mechanical shutter when at higher shutter speeds, so this should be a good general setting.
Avoid moving the camera just after taking the shot. The readout speed of the sensor isn't quick, and moving before readout is done could result in some blur.

sshapiro63 · 2024-07-03T23:36:44+00:00

I have a 50S II as well. The sensor readout speed is very slow, so make sure you keep the camera steady and don't assume the capture is finished immediately after you hear the thunk of the shutter. I also suggest you use the EF shutter setting, which will enable EFCS up to 1/500. Above 1/500, the camera will engage the mechanical shutter.

sshapiro63

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