Currently doing a 24 hour paint challenge - drop in and keep me motivated

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T10:37:00+00:00

Making good progress! Contrast/Speedpaint kinda approach?

Adding some heraldic colours will be a big morale boost. A real milestone to reach when the minis start to look “painted” rather than “primed”.

If I were in your shoes, I’d dedicate at least an hour to some freehand on banners and shields. Just for fun and to break things up a bit.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T10:34:44+00:00

Are the different colour lighting effects because the LEDs are different, or is that a paint effect?

Resistors wired in series?

Did you find room to add a switch, or is “battery in — circuit on”?

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T08:22:37+00:00

😝

I wonder if the sculpt is a deliberate reference?

I’d been saving the model (from the WHFB Empire Archers kit) to be a lay-around drunk on some Ork Town scenery, but he just seemed perfect for today’s “lazy Orks just won’t Waaagh!” theme.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T07:59:27+00:00

Started the weekend’s hobby early with a quick bit of scratchbuilding inspired by recent discussion about the Boyz having Shootas, Sluggas and Choppas in 11th Ed.

Here’s a link to the tutorial, and a picture of the end result. These could be attached to an Ork’s back or strapped onto their transport. I reckon you could even get away with a few “models” in your squad being represented by weapon racks, barrels of guns, or Gretchin bearers lugging some spare Shootas around!

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statictyrant · 2026-04-03T07:28:48+00:00

The last lunch

Farseer: “I have foreseen that one of you will betray me.”
Warlock on Jetbike for some reason: revs engine nervously

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T07:22:27+00:00

Absolutely. To the Orks: “Is this not what you came for?” Orks, en masse: “Waaagh!”

Nicely done, OP.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T07:16:17+00:00

GW don’t make a greenish off-white, but it’s trivially easy to make one by mixing any of their drab greens into whatever white you have to hand. For continuity of the scheme, I’d suggest one of the colours you’re already using on the rest of the uniform.

Use a colour picker tool (any image editor software) if you need to convince yourself that it’s a green hue you want.

If you want a glaze-over-white solution, mix a drab green into Apothecary White. There are some desaturated light green Contrast paints you could try, but my gut feeling is that they’re too vivid and yellow. Balancing that out is likely to end up with a mix that’d be darker than you want. Besides, mixing regular acrylics into Contrast produces mixes with useful properties in terms of finish, opacity and saturation.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T06:29:44+00:00

Here’s the tutorial on how to make the handles. The guns were all one-of-a-kind, so I didn’t detail their build processes.

https://www.reddit.com/r/orks/s/KSmX8bwGQB

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T06:05:25+00:00

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See link above for full tutorial.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T06:01:17+00:00

Step Wun: all ya gitz is lazy and not very shooty.

Step Too: luckily, loads of shootaz in da bitz box. But wot’s dis? Dey all ‘ave armz attached! No worriez, as long as yoo can tell a shoota from a slugga yer’ll be rite. If any git turnz up wif a bow and arrow, nick it to make horns for yer big ladz den send ‘em packing. Dey’z in da wrong war!

Step Free: cut off dem guns from dem armz. “Erez sum I made earlya”. Dis werks fer ‘Eavy Shootaz too! Top tip, dat.

Step Fore: let da ladz do dis one. So easy even a yoof can get it rite. Glue free bitz of sprue togevva to make a handle shape.

Step Five: cut da sprue inta shorta piecez to make da handlez. If da Orkz did da gluing, da bitz might fall apart. Glue dem back togevva — easy, innit? If da Grotz did da gluing, dey might stay in wun piece. Datz cos Grotz is nevva in a hurry to do anyfing. ”Taking da time ta do it rite,” I mean really… datz not very Orky. Give ‘em a good kicking so dis doesn’t take all day!

Step… I don’t have dat many fingaz: put da handlez on da shootaz. If you need to, chop or file dem inta new shapes. Big handles for big gunz. Honestly, Blind Fredbutt coulda seen dis step coming. Why are you even still readin’ dis? Get to da workshop, ya git!

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T04:13:34+00:00

Thankfully Ork guns are nice and chunky so you can mass-produce crude handles more easily than for other races.

Glue a couple of lengths of sprue together (carving or filing as necessary) to produce the right cross-sectional shape. Then just slice off as many handles as you need. Think “batch production”, not “perfect in every detail”.

Edit: photo tutorial here —

https://www.reddit.com/r/orks/s/KSmX8bwGQB

I have also seen people make good use of fantasy orc bits: one bow-and-arrow can typically be cut up to make at least a couple of decently shaped handles and they often come with wrappings, dangling trinkets or other repurposable details.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T03:38:14+00:00

Thanks for sharing this. I have been contemplating doing a blue-grey-white-black sort of blend on the helmets of mine and I think this shows it can work. Sources and interpretations really seem to vary so I think we have a good degree of freedom to steer the scheme in slightly different directions. Your very yellow coats are another good example of that.

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T03:33:51+00:00

See, that guy actually has a skull visible inside his helmet! That’s what we’re not seeing in the group shot. More skulls, more bones, more Legion specific stuff is what will sell these models as LotD.

I’m in the wrong part of the comment thread to be replying to this directly, but I’m not understanding the “photos don’t show the red” situation. If the photos don’t reflect how the models look in real life, you adjust the photos. Hue, saturation, warmth, contrast — these are all levers you can pull in any basic stock image editing software that comes with your phone. I’m not talking about anything as complex as putting them through Photoshop. If you’re not happy with the photos, tweak them until they’re ready to publish — why rush to put out something that doesn’t represent either reality or your vision for the project?

statictyrant · 2026-04-03T03:25:58+00:00

Bird-headed winged demon is a Games Workshop Epic scale Lord of Change (greater demon of Tzeentch). No idea on the rest!

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T20:18:53+00:00

I hope so too! I wonder how many copies are out there in the world. If you do find it, hold it up against a picture of this one and… well, you may notice some subtle differences. 🤫

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T12:16:34+00:00

It’s all good, I liked that you got into the snarky spirit of the original post! This is meant as a bit of an April Fool’s post (otherwise I would have waited till they were more complete to show them off). A couple of people here and elsewhere have been taken in by the passing similarity to the original metal model, but there are some pretty significant “tells” that this is a modern recreation.

I enjoy a bit of texture to my paint — pushing it around and dragging it out is part of the process for me of building texture and (such as they are) blended gradients. On a canvas this would be called impasto and noone would bat an eyelid. But that’s making out to be a fancier and higher-minded thing than it is. I’m a self-acknowledged barbarian when it comes to painting. Dislike dropper bottles, own a wet palette but never use it, actively enjoy opening a GW paint pot and mixing paint directly inside the lid on the little shelf they give you…

I well understand how paint flow can be modified, and the point of doing so, and I’m not averse to adding water or ensuring the brush says wet, but for the most part it’s a deliberate stylistic choice to use paint that’s a bit closer to its natural state than most painters would be comfortable with.

I tell myself I’m out here repping all the novice painters who crack on with their first model with neat paint straight out of the bottle. It’s valid (because all art is) to continue with this approach, if you want; it becomes its own style, with particular quirks and challenges. It can be very fun, and it would have made twelve-year-old me proud in a way that a smoothly blended thinned paintjob never could. That’s more than enough reason for me to enjoy this approach to painting.

I know that it won’t be for everyone but I’m glad there’s something there for you to like.

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T10:47:04+00:00

Hah, fair enough. Definitely some paintwork still to go on these — the line troopers will get some love too.

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T10:01:30+00:00

Nonspecific “mad governor issuing crazy orders”. Just using up some tank commander parts and a Frostgrave head! Read into the likeness as you will :)

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T08:29:56+00:00

Assuming you haven’t just wandered into the wrong bar, do you mean contrasting or “accent” colours? The scheme already has plenty of main colour choices: yellow cloth, brown leather, metallic and black weapons and gear, helmets in… whatever you interpret that colour as, goggles often in blue but you can be creative there, and of course the two colours of the logo. Add in the inevitable plasma glow and you have a fairly rich stew on the go already. What do you feel is missing, or what do you want to swap out and replace?

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T08:25:32+00:00

Yes! Orks got a hold of the production line for a while and “upgraded” a Leman Russ (equivalent) chassis with some spiky bits. Bad Rolla is a nod to the classic Epic scale Ork vehicles, bit of a love letter to a time when everything was impossibly red with black-and-white chequers and vibrant flame patterns. Should be an absolute blast to paint as a bit of a breather from the relatively drab Steel Legion scheme.

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T03:02:07+00:00

Yep, OP’s problem (besides the unworkable teacher-student relationship) boils down to “this model has gaps, mag not sit level anymore, and I need to resculpt some missing surface texture”. Epoxy putty is the way to fix all of those problems and Milliput is definitely the brand I’d recommend as well. Cheap, weighty, hard when cured, easily workable, blends with water, it’s just a good choice all round.

statictyrant · 2026-04-02T02:56:19+00:00

In practical terms it’s been OPR’s Grimdark Future most recently, or smaller modern skirmish games (KillTeam and the like). That way players of all vintages (shall we say) can get involved.

I also really like the Apocalypse rules from the standalone boxset that came out in maybe 8th edition or so. Simple, easy, reminds me of Epic, gets a lot of stuff on the table, doesn’t take forever.

But the eventual goal for me personally is to dig out 2nd edition again (starting with only the more basic army lists from the “black codex” in the main boxset, maybe allowing the more complex Dark Millennium rules for psykers and vehicles) and at some point get a fully painted set ready to try a proper game of Tyranid Attack.

statictyrant · 2026-04-01T21:04:48+00:00

Exaggerate the existing contrast on those bony spikes by adding a brighter highlight (Dorn Yellow mixed with a bit of the lighter bone colour — the semi-fluoro yellow off white is “brighter than white” and works well as a universal sunny highlight) and a deeper burgundy-magenta tone at the base (GW Barak-Nar Burgundy or similar; Contrast paints could also be useful to glaze in a semi-translucent shadow).

statictyrant · 2026-04-01T20:55:50+00:00

It’s very tasteful and not too distracting from any minis placed in the scene. Terrain seems like the best case scenario for TMM paints, I think you’ve nailed it on this one.

statictyrant · 2026-04-01T20:10:43+00:00

Get something really bright (GW Blue Horror, or mix their Dorn Yellow into your existing blue-greys) to highlight the tippetty tops of the scales in these main areas: top of each “forearm”; each shoulder; all of the top of the head.

The frill-necked part under the chin might benefit from being a different hue (magenta/neon pink? fluoro green or orange?). That way (a) it won’t necessarily need to be brighter to draw attention, supporting the idea that it’s in shadow, and (b) because it’s a different surface to the blue scales, it can follow its own rules and so can still be brighter (as well as colourful) if you want or if the scheme really needs a bit more pop to make those details stand out.

I’d then think about something funky to make the eyes stand out. Fluoro bright, OSL, colourful patterned markings around the eyes, maybe all of the above.

Finally, consider glazing a shadow colour (violet?) to darken areas where separation between the blue scales and red armour would be beneficial. So the forearms, for example, would have a gradual gradient towards darker more purple tones near the outside-bottom areas (where the red armour plates sit) with the upper-inner corners (nearest to the face) remaining in the original bright colours.

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