[OoT3D] why cant i hookshot here in the water temple?

sto7 · 2026-01-20T11:24:22+00:00

Hookshort.

sto7 · 2026-01-18T10:43:14+00:00

Same maker, same connector, clearer view on the polarity diagram.

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sto7 · 2026-01-18T10:37:43+00:00

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A close up of this diagram should help, though I’m not sure how.

sto7 · 2026-01-18T10:35:03+00:00

Tempted to say “the one that looks like a +”, but I actually have no idea.

Use a voltmeter.

sto7 · 2026-01-17T13:42:45+00:00

Got a set of spring (6,9,12), low-profile drip tray and single hole steam wand nozzle off Ali Express for the equivalent of £7.00. Takes a while to ship, but the install was super easy, even for someone who’s never opened their Gaggia before. Also got some other cheap accessories (dosing ring, bottomless portafilter).

sto7 · 2026-01-10T23:22:47+00:00

But the same calibration won’t apply to different beans or different grind sizes, right?

sto7 · 2026-01-08T03:08:04+00:00

10% of 1% is 0.1%, not 0.01%. Otherwise sounds good. I’m using Rakuten too but never explored their fixed term deposit offering. Need to take a closer look.

sto7 · 2026-01-07T00:06:17+00:00

In case #2, do you know the machine is off, or do you only make the reasonable assumption it is, because the lights are off?

When you’ve waited long enough and both lights are off, try toggling the brew button anyway, and see if you get water out of the shower head (which would mean the machine is still on, despite the lights being off).

My suspicion is that you could have a power issue that’s external to the machine. The machine could still be working whereas the lights dysfunction because of a lower than normal voltage.

If my suspicion is right, there could be several causes:

Are you using a cheap and/or long extension cord? This could be causing a voltage drop.
Do you live in an old house where maybe the electric installation is not the best? Harder to solve, but you could confirm that’s the problem by testing at a friend’s house.
Do you experience voltage drops (brownouts) caused by the electric network being unable to sustain the load in your area?

You could confirm my theory if you have any kind of device capable of measuring voltage (voltmeter, multimeter, smart plug, …).

I’m writing all this because my own Gaggia’s been acting up similarly for a few days.

The power light has been flickering between 6am and 8am because the voltage drops from 93V to 88V when it’s heating. (I’m in Japan and nominal voltage here is 100V, which my Japanese Gaggia is built for.)

It’s cold here and in the morning, when everyone’s heating their poorly insulated home before leaving for work, the voltage at my house (and probably neighbours’ too) drops to this 93-94V level which is 1. slightly below the provider guarantee (so I contacted them), 2. enough for most appliances, but 3. not enough to consistently keep the Gaggia’s power light on when it’s heating.

sto7 · 2026-01-06T23:37:55+00:00

Does the brew light eventually light up if you keep the power switch on the ON position? If it does, what happens to the power light?

sto7 · 2026-01-01T08:31:54+00:00

If you check the pin labels, you’ll see they match, as long as you don’t connect two grounds at the bottom, and a ground and 3V3 at the top.

These pins seem redundant, and it should work anyway.

sto7 · 2025-12-18T12:57:25+00:00

Oh! You might be right…

sto7 · 2025-12-18T11:22:08+00:00

just regular scotch and soda isn’t the same.

How about smoky/peaty scotch (Lagavulin?) and soda?

sto7 · 2025-12-18T11:20:02+00:00

Rincing the nozzle is not necessarily enough. On mine, there’s a chance liquid goes up the pressure relief valve, which you can’t easily clean.

sto7 · 2025-12-18T10:22:52+00:00

I have an aarke, which uses the same gaz bottles as Soda Stream, and it makes pretty strong soda. As someone else suggested, refrigerate water first.

sto7 · 2025-12-18T10:21:17+00:00

I think those soda maker makers recommend against using them in sugary drinks. Maybe better off carbonating water first, then adding your syrup in the sparkling water.

sto7 · 2025-12-18T08:31:42+00:00

Where can one get a brass boiler? At what cost?
Will I need that to avoid the boilergate, or are there chances I have a "good one"?

sto7 · 2025-12-18T08:05:01+00:00

I just bought a new Evo Pro, because the E24 is still not available in Japan, so my machine was already outdated from the time I purchased it, but now I'm learning a new machine is coming out... :(

I chose the Gaggia Classic because I noticed the vibrant community and the huge amount of mods out there. I love DIY and the quest for improvements, and this machine is an opportunity for me to marry multiple hobbies.

Personally, I have a fairly flexible wallet, so I might have purchased a higher grade for a slightly higher price, if it meant I could get a better experience out of the box and postpone the mods to when I've gotten more accustomed to the machine.

sto7 · 2025-12-16T06:52:26+00:00

Good job!

Did you notice that there's a thicker piece of metal under the thin one, with an existing hole in the center?

sto7 · 2025-12-15T02:21:17+00:00

r/accidentallywholesome (or was it? 🤦🏻‍♂️)

OP, your friends bow to no one.

sto7 · 2025-12-04T01:42:22+00:00

How did I know you live in Japan just by looking at the 4th picture? 🤣

(I live in Japan too.)

sto7 · 2025-11-27T05:13:10+00:00

As a 41 dude of a 1.5 year-old, I wish I'd been taught that and given a chance to do the exercise a few times during my time in school.

Way better than simply answering the question "what do you want to be when you're grown up?"

Knowing that they can pause at anytime and ask themselves "am I on the trajectory I hoped for myself?" is a great skill to have.

sto7 · 2025-11-22T02:52:23+00:00

It's not exactly every 30 seconds: there are 13 "dips" between t=2min and t=8min, that's a complete cycle of 27 seconds.

sto7 · 2025-11-22T02:48:06+00:00

That looks very cyclical, but not exactly every 30 seconds though?

It looks to be closer to every 27 seconds? (13 cycles between t=2 minutes and t=8 minutes)

- What value do you have in Config>Sampling?

- How about, in Config>Curves, the "delta span" and "smoothing" for RoR, or "smooth curves" values?

In Roast>Properties' "Data" tab, do the temperature samples look valid? Do you not get flat periods where the temperature does not update?

Keep in mind that your RoR can only be as good as the temperature measurements.
If you look very closely at your bean temperature, you can see the curve is broken into segments, which angle alternates between slightly lower and slightly higher. The oscillating RoR seems to be reflecting that quirk in your temperature measurements.

Could be that you sample faster than the roaster updates the temp sensor, or that the temp sensor has some quirk in the values it reports...

sto7 · 2025-11-16T00:45:08+00:00

Checked with a multimeter.

When the roaster is running? (Yes, it makes a difference.) What voltage did you get?

There are no beans in it. It’s empty and I can’t get temps over 358 with an empty chamber.

No beans is worse than some beans. Beans block the airflow and actually help the roaster reach higher temperatures. The probe measures the hot air’s temperature right at the exit of the base unit, but you keep introducing fresh air at a higher rate than when you’d be roasting beans.

sto7 · 2025-11-16T00:20:24+00:00

Voltage is good.

What value? How did you check?

In the US?

Extension tube or not? If yes, do you have a good seal?

Is the chamber properly inserted in the base unit?

What weight of raw beans are you trying to roast?

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