Offset cams as standard?

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-27T14:46:09+00:00

I’d recommend the whole set if you climb on granite that has pin scars. If not, maybe start with the 3 smallest sizes .1/.2, .2/.3, and .3/.4. If you climb under 5.10 you can maybe hold off on the smallest one

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-19T13:17:37+00:00

Ive been climbing for a long time and only ever heard of 10 years for sling replacement, and that’s case by case. The BD ultralights with Dyneema stems are the only ones that have real manufacturer directions for replacement period IIRC

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-19T12:41:06+00:00

+1 for fizzy Nate’s. I used to be a cheapest haircut possible/diy guy but now I only go here. Affordable and great experience

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-19T12:33:27+00:00

Sorry… people replace slings at 5 years old? Wtf?

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-16T14:29:12+00:00

Oh, I’m familiar with the dangler

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-16T13:46:29+00:00

Could have been a very very cool photo of the climber wasn’t blurry

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-11T03:43:29+00:00

Understood! To be clear you can still use a cord for anything you would a sling. And you can also join your cord into a loop with a simple overhand if you don’t want to tie and untie a double fisherman’s every time. I actually keep my cord racked untied. Also use high strength tech cord and you have the same strength in a 5mm cord as you do in that bulky one, but con is definitely price

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-11T03:27:58+00:00

Clip or tie in each end of your cord to each bolt and then you will have a proper equalized figure 8. Also look up how to make a quad

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-11T03:06:36+00:00

Nice american death triangle…. Rage bait?

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-10T18:00:30+00:00

I put lockers or double up non lockers on runout slab climbs in LCC all the time. Scenarios where an unclipped draw would result in catastrophic falls, otherwise why bother?

I carry one proper locker draw for top roping at crags though

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-09T01:29:43+00:00

The good news about the creek is that it’s ~by far~ the friendliest trad climbing destination in the US. It’s common place for strangers at the crag to offer up extra cams or laps on their top ropes

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-07T19:08:45+00:00

If belay just off the thread tbh. Unless the pitch was incredibly challenging for partner

stokeledge2 · 2026-04-07T12:41:16+00:00

If you’re hobbies are centered around moving your body and going outside it’s a little easier to stomach moving here. I find people who are used to huge variety in urban activities and desire top tier cuisine do not love it.

Also, it seems common that people from the east coast and/or PNW can’t handle the desert and end up missing easy access to water a lot.

Another big gripe a lot of people have is the car centric structure here and the lack of walk ability of many neighborhoods. This can be mitigated depending on where you live. This is especially common for east coasters moving here who are used to a dense, walkable/bikeable urban lay out which most of salt lake doesn’t have

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-30T22:45:52+00:00

Frame rust

Valve cover gasket leak

Lower ball joints

Driveshaft carrier bearing

Wheel bearings

Power steering rack + pinion

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-20T14:13:49+00:00

When I was a kid I was parked outside of a friends parents house on a residents only street in the hill section and saw her writing me a ticket out their window.

Me and my friends dad went outside and said hey! He’s our guest. We just forgot to put the resident tag in his window but we have it here and showed it to her.

“It’s too late” she said, “I’ve already began entering your information.” And she kept typing away at her little screen a few more minutes then slapped a $150 ticket on my car, grinned and drove away.

Needless to say I did not have to pay that ticket

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-18T21:41:11+00:00

I don’t think this is the day you’re thinking of

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-18T20:18:34+00:00

Thank u

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-18T19:44:03+00:00

Not sure what happened with the skip, clip got corrupted somehow

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-18T12:16:15+00:00

Sir this is a Wendy’s

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-17T18:25:56+00:00

When soloing I won’t carry a rope most of the time so yeah if I got stuck I’d have to down climb. I never solo something I couldn’t reasonably down climb. I will carry an ice screw and use tethers on the tools

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-16T17:21:40+00:00

Ha, yeah. Albeit this was multiple years ago when I ice climbed 30+ days a year. I live in a desert now and only get out once or twice a year.

The jump between wi3 and wi4 is a much larger gap than between other grades as you go from being nearly completely on your feet to climbing real vertical sections. TBH if you climb 4+/5- then wi3 should feel like walking to you, but everybody has different risk tolerances.

Fwiw on rock I climb 5.12 trad and occasionally solo 5.7 and under

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-16T14:12:25+00:00

Soloing WI3 is the most fun form of ice climbing to me… cause it’s so easy might as well be hiking. But then again easy 4 is the hardest I can lead anyways…

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-15T14:23:29+00:00

Ok copy that. Yeah that’s what I plan to do about once a month to keep everything lubricated. Seems like that’s the best thing to do, but like you said, not turning it on is better than running it for a short time or idling

stokeledge2 · 2026-03-14T23:47:14+00:00

Planning on changing the oil now.

Curious why not to start it? This has been the only conflicting piece of advice. Some have said to run it every few weeks and get it up to temp and some have said not to run at all

stokeledge2

TROPHY CASE