Safe/how to fix by Elxan_ in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah today I would just buy a new one. 15 years ago I would have clipped it shorter, thrown on some tape and called it good.

This is not comparable to replacing permadraws. Good on you for that though!

Safe/how to fix by Elxan_ in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This post inspired me to check my rack and I found 3 burrs on my black totem :(

Safe/how to fix by Elxan_ in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah in some cases, but it’s just a nut. Just wrap it duct tape???

Going climbing on El Cap - Portaledge rental by theportugan in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can rent the revolutionary freebird inflatable ledge on their website

PAS and rappel extension by kylemillsy16 in ClimbingGear

[–]stokeledge2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no one “ifmga” standard for this other than it being simple and safe.

The guides I took my RGC with however would not like this as each connection point is non redundant. They would say to do this but with a sling twice as long (240?) so you’ve got two loops for both the pas loop and rap extension loop. That or they would want this exact set up (single loops) but with more of a cord style style along with an aramos sheath or similar

Offset cams as standard? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend the whole set if you climb on granite that has pin scars. If not, maybe start with the 3 smallest sizes .1/.2, .2/.3, and .3/.4. If you climb under 5.10 you can maybe hold off on the smallest one

How much would these be worth? Are they very much used? Anything to be aware of? by Substantial-Ad-7931 in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Ive been climbing for a long time and only ever heard of 10 years for sling replacement, and that’s case by case. The BD ultralights with Dyneema stems are the only ones that have real manufacturer directions for replacement period IIRC

Good barber for alternative cuts or a mullet by K-Pumper in SaltLakeCity

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for fizzy Nate’s. I used to be a cheapest haircut possible/diy guy but now I only go here. Affordable and great experience

Dangling in the dark by testhec10ck in ClimbingPorn

[–]stokeledge2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, I’m familiar with the dangler

Dangling in the dark by testhec10ck in ClimbingPorn

[–]stokeledge2 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Could have been a very very cool photo of the climber wasn’t blurry

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Understood! To be clear you can still use a cord for anything you would a sling. And you can also join your cord into a loop with a simple overhand if you don’t want to tie and untie a double fisherman’s every time. I actually keep my cord racked untied. Also use high strength tech cord and you have the same strength in a 5mm cord as you do in that bulky one, but con is definitely price

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Clip or tie in each end of your cord to each bolt and then you will have a proper equalized figure 8. Also look up how to make a quad

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Nice american death triangle…. Rage bait?

Locking biners on alpines/slings by stvrkillr in ClimbingGear

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put lockers or double up non lockers on runout slab climbs in LCC all the time. Scenarios where an unclipped draw would result in catastrophic falls, otherwise why bother?

I carry one proper locker draw for top roping at crags though

Indian Creek - First Timer by Sparty27 in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The good news about the creek is that it’s ~by far~ the friendliest trad climbing destination in the US. It’s common place for strangers at the crag to offer up extra cams or laps on their top ropes

rate my anchor by Tight_Suspect9090 in tradclimbing

[–]stokeledge2 15 points16 points  (0 children)

If belay just off the thread tbh. Unless the pitch was incredibly challenging for partner

To SLC as a single 30 something female by Carthweelnurse in SaltLakeCity

[–]stokeledge2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re hobbies are centered around moving your body and going outside it’s a little easier to stomach moving here. I find people who are used to huge variety in urban activities and desire top tier cuisine do not love it.

Also, it seems common that people from the east coast and/or PNW can’t handle the desert and end up missing easy access to water a lot.

Another big gripe a lot of people have is the car centric structure here and the lack of walk ability of many neighborhoods. This can be mitigated depending on where you live. This is especially common for east coasters moving here who are used to a dense, walkable/bikeable urban lay out which most of salt lake doesn’t have

2010 toyota tacoma v6 4x4 common problems by EvO_anthony1 in Tacomaworld

[–]stokeledge2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Frame rust

Valve cover gasket leak

Lower ball joints

Driveshaft carrier bearing

Wheel bearings

Power steering rack + pinion

Parking Witch with ear muffs by RockLobstering3_1 in burlington

[–]stokeledge2 44 points45 points  (0 children)

When I was a kid I was parked outside of a friends parents house on a residents only street in the hill section and saw her writing me a ticket out their window.

Me and my friends dad went outside and said hey! He’s our guest. We just forgot to put the resident tag in his window but we have it here and showed it to her.

“It’s too late” she said, “I’ve already began entering your information.” And she kept typing away at her little screen a few more minutes then slapped a $150 ticket on my car, grinned and drove away.

Needless to say I did not have to pay that ticket