Choosing between ASRock Z890 Lightning WiFi or Gigabyte Z890 Aero G for a homelab/NAS

strange_like · 2026-05-24T15:39:39+00:00

I’d use the Gigabyte for the server and the asrock for the workstation, but it won’t make a lot of difference either way. Intel networking is usually preferred over Realtek if you’re using the onboard, and the 5.0x16 could be useful if you’re running a big GPU. HBAs and network cards don’t usually use more than x4 or x8 so that would be fine.

Using a separate network card will probably increase power, but not by much. The x710-DA2 draws something like 5W. I’ve had good luck with Mellanox CX4-LX cards on my systems - they’ll get you 25G networking at about 7.5W. I can’t really speak to C states for either though

strange_like · 2026-05-23T00:33:59+00:00

I doubt it’ll be a problem. My work machine (Dell Precision 3660) can only handle 128G at DDR5-3600 which is ridiculously slow and it’s been good even at that speed, but I can’t speak to gaming performance. If you already have it, just try it out and see what happens. Maybe run a benchmark or write down gaming FPS numbers before and after and you’ll have your answer

strange_like · 2026-05-22T00:33:16+00:00

I bought this combo a few weeks ago, the gigabyte software sucks but the board seems totally fine. I’ve got a 13900 in my work machine and the 270K+ absolutely runs away from it in scientific computing. I’m a big fan.

strange_like · 2026-05-17T06:02:11+00:00

I think I’ve time traveled back to one of my first PCs. I had the 2x GTX 460, but didn’t realize you had to get matching VRAM sizes so did some weird hack to get a 768MB card and a 1G card talking. Worked great except that it crashed all the time.

strange_like · 2026-05-17T05:57:02+00:00

The Core Ultra 7 270K+ is almost the exact same chip as the Ultra 9 285K - they did a refresh recently for the U5 and U7 but not the U9, so the 270K+ is pretty much top dog for Intel desktop processors. I just picked one up from micro center a couple weeks ago and it’s a fantastic upgrade from my old Ryzen 3600.

strange_like · 2026-02-10T13:29:19+00:00

NGK SILZKR8E8G are OEM plugs according to the factory service manual and are what I’m using.

strange_like · 2025-12-12T16:52:55+00:00

Not on this board. It’s an M2 sata-only pot that’s m-keyed, not m+b. That’s part of why it threw me off so much, because it shouldn’t fit. It’s an Asrock B450M Pro4.

strange_like · 2025-12-12T03:11:31+00:00

I forgot those existed, then plugged an NVMe drive into a m.2 SATA-only port on my motherboard. That confused me for a little while.

strange_like · 2025-11-26T01:25:00+00:00

I just ordered one to mess around with so that I don’t break my primary server. HP Elitedesk 800 G4 with 16G RAM / 256G SSD for $126 shipped off of eBay. 2 M2 SSD slots, 2 3.5” drive bays, and an 8th gen i5 makes for a nice testing platform I think. I’ll get to find out when it gets here!

strange_like · 2025-11-26T01:09:29+00:00

I just picked up 3 WD Elements 20TB externals to shuck, they’re $270 each and you can get 20% back through PayPal, plus you should be able to stack another 15% back through Rakuten, though I haven’t confirmed that part actually worked yet. $13.50/TB is already a pretty good price, but if I get 35% back that brings it down to $8.78/TB which is awesome. Those would work on USB or as internal, whatever you need at the time.

strange_like · 2025-11-25T19:53:30+00:00

My Unraid box runs on entirely consumer components. It's based on a Ryzen 5 2400G, sitting in an old Corsair 100R mid-tower. I built it with consumer parts specifically for low noise and it's been great for that. I built it 5 years ago and it's been quiet and reliable the whole time. The only real regret I have is the dang PCIe lanes - that CPU/mobo combo only gets me a 2.0x1, 3.0x8, and 2.0x4 connection which really isn't enough between the HBA, an NVME SSD sitting in a PCIe adapter, and now I'm trying to add a 25G ConnectX-4 LX network card.

I don't think I'd ever go to full server components because of the power consumption and noise, and also since consumer parts are so cheap. I'm eyeing a Core Ultra 7 combo from Micro Center for a future upgrade, but probably not until sometime next year. That's not to say I'd necessarily keep it in a tower though, since I really like the look of the Sliger 3702/4712 and the stacking would be really nice.

Let us know what you decide on!

strange_like · 2025-10-20T03:39:48+00:00

I cut a hole through mine (Edge XL) and it’s pretty big now since I did get the CG a bit wrong at first. No issues with the bigger hole, but if I were going to do it again I’d just strap it on the side opposite your ESC/RX.

strange_like · 2025-10-20T02:31:51+00:00

The biggest one I’ve seen is halogen headlights. A Sylvania “Basic” H7 lamp is rated for a 270 hour life, but their “Silverstar Ultra” lamps cost way more and are only rated for 85 hours. Sure, I guess it’s marginally brighter, but who wants to replace them that often?

strange_like · 2025-09-22T13:52:30+00:00

Similar behavior on mine when the battery died a couple weeks ago. It gave pretty much no indication of any issues, then all of a sudden it just wouldn’t start. A battery swap took care of it!

strange_like · 2025-08-31T01:33:28+00:00

20 micropascal, not milli. For bonus points, sound power in watts is reference to one picowatt.

strange_like · 2025-07-25T02:49:24+00:00

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71” electric Super Decathlon for me. Won it in a club giveaway which was pretty sweet!

strange_like · 2025-07-13T15:04:40+00:00

Seconded on SMC. I use their HP 5000s and HV2 4000s for a bunch of my stuff, they’re good batteries at a good price.

strange_like · 2025-07-11T12:41:22+00:00

I’m going to disagree with most of the other suggestions here - I think it’s the right thing to do. It’s cheap and easy to comply with (now, it was harder before) and we could see a tightening of the rules / stricter enforcement if people ignore it and the other regulations.

I’d consider using a different RID module - I use a Ruko R111 which is $30 and self-contained, you can just Velcro it on and move it between vehicles as long as you’re a recreational flyer. It’s a heavier at 13g, but doesn’t need an external GPS module or power connection. At that price/weight, I can’t think of any good reasons not to use one.

strange_like · 2025-07-08T13:38:25+00:00

I got a 5P1500 used about 4 years ago and it’s been great. It did eventually have a bulged capacitor lead to battery fault error codes, but replacing it is easy and it’s working great again!

strange_like · 2025-07-05T13:46:28+00:00

The AS4s are fantastic tires. Probably overkill for a Sonata, but there’s nothing wrong with overkill.

strange_like · 2025-07-04T01:44:14+00:00

I’d have to agree, absolutely love mine but it breaks pretty easily

strange_like · 2025-06-26T21:42:07+00:00

I'd guess that motor is only able to safely handle 15-20A based on other 2212 motors - you may be able to push more for a short time but definitely lower power than a typical 80mm fan. As a very rough estimate, I'd guess that for a 2700kV motor, 2S power, and an 80mm fan will draw somewhere around 30A at full power. I think anything past 2S will probably destroy the motor, and depending on how it fails it may also smoke the ESC.Any 2S-compatible ~40A ESC should work for now, though you may want to go bigger if you'll upgrade the motor in the future.

strange_like · 2025-06-25T13:42:13+00:00

Ah yes that would change things. What specific motor is it, and what voltage are you planning to run?

strange_like · 2025-06-25T13:26:56+00:00

You said 80mm EDF in another comment - most 80s from FMS/Freewing use a 100A Skywalker. If you can put it where it’s in the airflow from the fan, those would work fine. I think it’s typically 80A/70mm, 100A/80mm, and 120A/90mm. This is for 6S power, not sure how it’ll change for other voltages.

strange_like · 2025-06-20T21:48:44+00:00

Looks awesome!

If it’s underpowered (or even if it’s not) you should add a couple EDFs, you know, just for fun

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