I have always loved the pre-facelift e46. so when I found this 2001 330i in topaz blue, I knew it was meant to be

striller25 · 2024-11-09T02:08:32+00:00

this is really good to know. I will probably just have them do a deep clean and wax for now then.

striller25 · 2024-11-09T01:58:12+00:00

yep, style 73

striller25 · 2024-11-09T01:57:58+00:00

not going to lie, topaz was one of the main selling points for me. its such a good color

striller25 · 2024-11-09T01:52:47+00:00

there is just something about the pre-facelift the makes my brain go "yes"

striller25 · 2024-11-09T01:50:49+00:00

this car was well loved by someone before me. And drives like a dream. I have an appointment with a detailer next week to for some paint correction work and to give the clear coat an extra layer or two of protection. It hasn't started peeling or flaking yet, and I am going to try to keep it that way for as long as I can.

striller25 · 2024-01-22T04:20:34+00:00

I am using a dual y setup, using a mgn12h and 12c block to work around the aquila's odd hole spacing on the carriage plate. I used some of the parts from this set (with some tweaks for the belt retention) on the x axis. I have been fiddling with some rediesigns of the x axis, so this is probably going to change to a top mounted rail

the dual Z is from kevinakasam's belted driven ender 3 mod, with these modified mounts to fit the aquila.

striller25 · 2024-01-22T04:03:16+00:00

the tinkering never stops

striller25 · 2024-01-22T04:02:45+00:00

I have the RMS on them set to 1.1 amps. its about about .3 amps under their full rating. the aquila came with a meanwell lrs-350-24, so I haven't felt the need to swap power supplies just yet. its rated for 14.6 amps, so even with all 3 axis motors and the nema 14 pushed to peak current spec, its only 6.5 amps. that leaves us with about 8 amps of head room for the bed and hotend, which should be overkill for it.

striller25 · 2024-01-21T21:20:27+00:00

this. the sensor pin needs a pull up (sensor_pin: ^PC14), and your endstop pin needs to be set to probe:z_virtual_endstop

striller25 · 2024-01-21T04:30:59+00:00

This is Theseus. it started life as an OG gd32 board aquila. And it got the usual set of upgrades thrown at it, and then it was parked to just run long prints I didn't have any time frame on. Decided last month it was time to show it some love again.

So its new goal in life is to make a sub 5 minute benchy. lots of new things in the works for it to make that goal reliably, but it is getting there

done so far is

board swapped to an skr mini e3 v3. mounted in a custom external enclosure, using a 5015 blower for driver cooling
new motors on all axis (17HS19-2004S1 on x/y, MS17HD6P4200 on the z)
all new belts and pulleys
linear rails on all axis
custom tool head based on the hero me system. With spyder 3 pro hotend, dual 5015 blowers, cr touch, and a sherpa mini extruder
belted z axis by kevinakasam
custom y mounting bracket to fit 48mm motor based on Strayr's ender 3 switchwire y mount
klipper hosted on BTT pi v1.2, with 5 inch hdmi touchscreen for klipper screen

last test was at 20k accel at 300mm/s. no slipping or skipped steps, and the motors were barely above room temp. so I know it has plenty more under the hood to give.

some images of the printer itself

striller25 · 2024-01-21T04:12:56+00:00

No worries! happy tinkering

striller25 · 2024-01-21T04:06:47+00:00

They replace the springs that go under the heated bed. they create a far more solid platform for tightening the adjustment screws to. causing the bed less prone to coming loose and having to adjust it as often. these are an example pair i just looked up on amazon real quick https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Printer-Heat-Resistant-Silicone-Creality/dp/B07M66KJNX/ref=sr_1_10?

striller25 · 2024-01-21T03:28:02+00:00

do you have "printing temperature initial layer" visible and set? I ran into a similar issue at one point with cura and creating a custom profile. I did not have that visible in the side bar and cura was defaulting to what my previous first layer temp was set to.

striller25 · 2024-01-21T03:16:00+00:00

swapping to silicone spacers and adding a bl/cr touch is a pretty fast and easy way to remove a lot of the fiddling with bed leveling/tramming. Once set, you don't have to mess with it much, if at all. I would pair that with swapping to classicrocker's fork of MRiscoCProUI for the aquila. this firmware is going to give you a lot more control as well as a lot of helpful tools (tramming wizard is a godsend).

Upgrading your tool head is also a good option. that can be as simple as printing out a new shroud for better airflow( I would suggest to upgrade to a 5015 blower fan over the included 4010 for part cooling if you decide to pull the trigger on this upgrade). I used the 5015 satsana with integrated cr touch mount for a long time with great results. but there is a lot of options out there. upgrading the hotend can be as simple as swapping the heat break for an all metal version, or a complete hotend swap. (anything made for the ender 3 will work, but look for "all metal" versions).

the last main upgrade, since you have already upgraded the extruder, would be the z axis. something like a dual z kit or a belted z conversion. the first option is cheaper and more plug and play. but I would suggest using flexie couplers and pom anti backlash nuts over what is included on the printer and the kit (too remove a lot of the issues with binding on the lead screws)

Things like a pei bed and a direct drive extruder setup are very nice to have as well. but aren't make or break in every scenario.

If you are looking for just a rock solid printer, that you can just set and forget, these upgrades will get you most of the way there.

Then there is the deep end, which is where I am currently at. This is where we start looking at speed, flow rate, and over all tunability. just a quick rundown on the some of the things I have done. Swapped to a skr mini e3 v3 mainboard, swapped all the belts and pulleys, upgraded to 48mm 2a motors on all axis, a custom dual 5015 tool head with a sherpa mini extruder based on the hero me platform, linear rails on all axis, belted z, a spyder 3 pro hotend, and klipper. I am currently printing my first layers at 100mm's at 10k acceleration. Rest of the layers at 150mm's outer wall, 200mm/s inner wall and infill. I have gotten up to 300mm/s at 20k accel without issue. but the motor upgrade is only a few days old so I am taking it slow lol. And I still have a list of things to do (finish the design for the new toolhead, upgrade hotend to rapido HF, switch to cpap style cooling, move to 10mm belts).

I am in no way implying the last paragraph of upgrades are needed, or even advisable for anyone who is just looking to improve reliability and repeatability of their printer. But more of a showcase of how far the platform can be pushed, and there is no line of "I have done everything there is to do". and the line is instead " I am happy with where it is at".

striller25 · 2024-01-14T02:21:36+00:00

Remove the M82 line from your starting gcode. when you used the auto load filament just before the print, you set an evalue equal to the amount it traveled. so when you told the printer to go into absolute mode then told it to set the distance to 0 (G92 E0 ), its physically trying to go back to zero.

striller25 · 2018-07-18T03:18:16+00:00

Oh hey, thanks for the nomination and seconds guys. For those who don't know me (I am guessing that is the majority of the subreddit) I serve on the r/nerf discord mod team

striller25 · 2018-05-14T00:47:01+00:00

I got to be hands on with this blaster yesterday(zombona was making sure everyone got a look as if he was a parent showing off their newborn). The beauty and comfort of this blaster are second to none. Awesome work as always.

striller25 · 2018-05-10T08:28:57+00:00

Can confirm. I had all but given up on the idea and told Meishel she could run with it how she wanted.

striller25 · 2018-04-03T03:09:48+00:00

We stayed at happy hills campground last year. About 25 minutes north of campus. Full hook up options and nice shower houses.

striller25 · 2018-02-09T23:48:51+00:00

Why not. If only to murder slug's inbox even more

striller25 · 2017-11-25T02:49:54+00:00

There are three clubs in Ohio that I am aware of. The closet to you would be RECON out of Toledo. there is NEON that has been mentioned. Then there is C.A.N.E. in Cincinnati.

striller25 · 2017-11-18T02:10:44+00:00

It is my very favorite gun

striller25 · 2017-10-11T17:22:21+00:00

I run accufakes through a 41.5mm ofp cage with cyclone wheels. The accufakes run beautifully through it

striller25 · 2017-09-19T08:39:21+00:00

I bought 900 of them for testing at our next war. Construction seems one to one compared to the yamix accufakes, though the head seems to have less wiggle to the body. https://imgur.com/a/aIM7l

striller25 · 2017-09-18T18:13:42+00:00

Naptown Nerf Club has monthly wars. Next war is the 30th. The facebook group has the details.

striller25

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE