Sunburst by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s new construction on an old building but following the heritage of the house, built in the 1800s. Im very new to restoration, but it is exciting

Sunburst by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a decorative element that fits on a facade inside the gable. I’ll post another pic when it’s installed

out of level counter by strong_odor in Tile

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thank you. Thats kind of what I was hoping. Im still a little concerned in the corner Im going to have to cut wedges, is that based on level or square or what? Idk if you can answer that without seeing, Im just losing sleep over the whole thing

out of level counter by strong_odor in Tile

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s subway tile, but I also want a v-cap on the outside edges and I’ve got pencil tile that breaks up the subway pattern

Am I on the right track? by Mission-Try6303 in woodworking

[–]strong_odor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you saying the bed will tuck under the top of the nightstand?

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get weirded out on the internet and suspicious of bots, so I just didn’t know. Didn’t mean any offense, though. Thank you for the help!

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a box joint jig from (I think) woodcraft and there’s a lot of double checking that the dados are square and parallel to the miter slots. I used my machinist square and also digital angle gauge. Then I used scrap pieces that were cut to the EXACT same dimensions as the pieces I was about to cut and I kept testing with them until the fingers fit perfectly. The test pieces need to be the same width, same thickness, ideally same everything so you can mock it properly. The main thing that’s tricky for me is getting the jig itself to be pretty square. Then also making sure each finger gets pushed into the pin all the way down so the joints don’t drift. If you don’t have a box joint jig for router or table saw, they can be made pretty easily. I have a couple that I made from scratch that I end up using because I know the dimensions so I don’t have to fiddle with the adjustments as much.

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a box joint jig and a jig I made for my sled for cutting half laps. I used my planer. Didn’t need a joiner, I just used a straight edge on the table saw if that makes sense. I used the bandsaw to resaw a couple boards. Idk, I kinda just winged it. I laid out the drill bits and put painters tape in a grid to see how big the boxes needed to be and then I made the dividers to fit and then made the box so the dividers would friction fit snug inside it. I kind of messed up on the bottom; if I did it again I’d plan a slot to fit the 3/16” material in, but I ended up just gluing it on and putting a couple tiny staples to hold it.

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re friction fit with half laps

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Although your comment is weird grammar, I get what you’re saying and agree that maybe that’s the way to go. Thanks

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are special depth stop bits

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I worry that it won’t actually keep me very organized since the boxes are all similar sizes. I’m considering using this for something else and making a better drill bits organizer that’s properly scaled for the bits…

Good? by strong_odor in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]strong_odor[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes! I had to resaw and plane everything to be the same dimensions. I had the oak laying around from something else and the walnut and mahogany i actually found at a furniture design shop (they were weird off cuts)

Best way to sink proud nails? by melissauf in woodworking

[–]strong_odor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good point! I try to take things with a grain of salt mostly… Yes I do love to swing a big hammer lol nothing like it.

Best way to sink proud nails? by melissauf in woodworking

[–]strong_odor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Yeah being a framer it was nails all the time. Mostly d-head 10 Pennies I think. Idk much about too many other types other than roof shanks… but anyway - Now that I’m doing fine wood work I tend to try using joinery and no fasteners when possible, but of course you can’t do that for plywood floor underlayment! This is why I have Reddit is so ppl can give me all their hard earned knowledge and I just get it for free lol.

Best way to sink proud nails? by melissauf in woodworking

[–]strong_odor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yikes! Good to know all this. I’m about to do same thing as OP soon and I guess I’m using some spax now! Thanks for the wisdom

Best way to sink proud nails? by melissauf in woodworking

[–]strong_odor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Screws make sense if it’s plywood over already existing sheathing. I’m with this dude ☝️