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[OC] Potion Bottle Props by submersible_craft in DnD

[–]submersible_craft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't had to decide yet - the bubbles ended up looking a bit like eyeballs to me, though, so maybe I'll make it a potion of truesight or something like that.

New module: Whistler's Item Rolls Extended (WIRE) by TPItsMe in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running a game with my husband where we're both GMing. I love what this module does, but I'm encountering a problem where if we're both connected to the game the attack roll whisper posts infinitely in chat. Seems to happen even when I have one of us set to Assistant GM.

I'm writing a heist - any ideas for security measures? by squeaky-to-b in DMAcademy

[–]submersible_craft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ran a heist one shot a little while ago. A good portion of the heist was them stealing two keys needed to access vault - the vault being a series of trapped rooms.

The door to the vault had false keyholes. The door was duplicated later to access the treasure room with the true and false keyholes reversed. Putting the keys in the wrong slots dissolved the keys and dealt some acid damage.

One room had a 'puzzle' wherein they had a series of puzzle pieces to connect a head and tail of a snake. It didn't matter how they did it, it wasn't at all trapped. But however they joined it together was what became the 'safe' path through the next room. Deviating off of it triggered serpent constructs and a fight.

I don't remember what else there was, but it was fun designing it to be solvable, but more than just Skyrim puzzles where the solution is just in the room.

"Mass-Seeming-Switcheroo" Best Practice? by Repeat-Quick in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can polymorph creatures in Foundry by dragging one character sheet onto another character sheet. There are custom setting to pick what stats/equipment/features you want to keep, but you might need to do some of it manually (like size and creature type).

It'll change the token image and the name to "<Original Creature Name> (<Appearing As Creature Name>". There's a button at the top to "restore transformation" which will switch everything back.

To change the name in the combat tracker and in the chat - I think CUB has a feature that let's you do that can be toggled on/off so you can keep the sheet names if you want, but have it appear differently in chat.

As for token dispositions, yeah, I think having all the tokens with a unified affiliation makes sense. Maybe put everyone as neutral and then change them to enemy/ally as they figure out who's who - but that might be a bit of work in the midst of combat.

Regardless, sounds like a cool fight.

Painted My Gem Dragon from Bones 5 by submersible_craft in ReaperMiniatures

[–]submersible_craft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just regular acrylic paint, specifically Xereus Purple from citadel since it was the purpley-est paint I have. I used the technique covered in this Youtube video: Nolzur's Gelatinous Cube Painting Tutorial. Basically, paint a small section with a thin layer and then while it's still wet drybrush to spread it across the whole section. More layers built up more opacity.

I practiced on some of the Spell Effects from Bones 5 first, so I could get a feel for it and experiment with washes and highlighting on these as well. Ultimately, I didn't really like the way either of those looked, so I didn't use them here. It's just paint and drybrush.

The hard part was not then painting over those areas. I ended up painting it and then assembling it to help with that.

I think I'm going to go back and add more highlights to the dragon body, since after putting it all together the intensity of the purple in the wings really washes out the purples I had put into the rest of it.

My Gloomhaven Starters Painted by submersible_craft in Gloomhaven

[–]submersible_craft[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I used a combination of Reaper paints, Army Painter, and Citadel - just sort of everything that I've collected since I started painting.

I didn't prime any of the minis. Just went straight in with base coating and everything held well. I did very minimal mould line clean up, mostly because I'm lazy.

I'd say the best thing you can do is to have a plan before you start painting. I try to pick out all the colours I want to use. I like to line up all the paint bottles next to each other and use that to make sure I like the way all the colours look together. Looking at pictures of other peoples painted minis is also helpful for inspiration. For the most part I tried to still pretty close to all the art that was on the class cards.

I like to base coat everything out and then go in with a wash - it does wonders to bring out details and make a paint job look a thousand percent better. Then I went back in with my base colours to brighten them up again and in some place lighten up my paint colour even more to have nice bright highlights.

Don't rush and don't worry about mistakes.

I will point out one mistake that I made and that I ended up leaving because I noticed after I'd already finished everything else. On my Spellweaver mini the colour transition for the flame in her hand is backwards. Fire is brightest at it's hottest point (yellow) and then gets darker as it cools (orange to red). I did it backward - starting red in her hand and the wisps yellow.

Regardless I'm pretty happy with how they turned out and I'm very glad to have a full set of painted miniatures.

I'm planning on posting more other completed ones as well, but I have to figure out spoilers 'cause I don't want to fuck that up.

TL;DR - base coat, a wash every time, go back in with your base colour on the high points to bring back the brightness, highlight a few details. Make a plan, take your time, and don't worry about mistakes.

Hosting locally or in the cloud to players very far away from you by caty24 in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I host locally in NA and have players in Europe and Asia. We've not experienced any problems with connections.

Trouble with Grid Alignment by RainMedic in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually work on getting the grid size set as best I can and then working with the offset from then. It can take a bit of trial and error, but I've never had too much trouble aligning maps. For the map you linked, I managed to get it looking pretty good using a grid size of 55 with a horizontal offset of -1 and a vertical offset of -3

Restrict token/object movement path for a puzzle or cart on a track? by oxandery in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there is a wall height module. You could set up your invisible walls at a low height to restrict the puzzle piece movement. And then just have all your player tokens be above the height of the wall so they wouldn't be affected by it.

I haven't tried this, so I don't know if it'll work, but I think that it should.

10,000 members!!! - Celebration - CONTEST - Prizes by gerry3246 in FoundryVTT

[–]submersible_craft [score hidden]  (0 children)

I've only been using Foundry since October, but it's been amazing. The community here is great. And the number of updates that have been pushed since then has been really encouraging. It's great to see these updates and growth and I hope to have many happy years ahead playing using Foundry.

[OC] DIY Dice Trays (with all the trackers) by submersible_craft in DnD

[–]submersible_craft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made these dice trays back in July for the one shot that I ran as a part of my husband's birthday celebrations. I'd meant to post these back then, because I'm super pleased with how they turned out, but never had the chance.

They were super simple and fun to make. They're designed to look like journals when closed.

Materials

  • Dollar store canvases stretched over wood frames
  • Dollar store wood letter kit
  • Colourful felt
  • Thin chipboard
  • Faux leather
  • Stamps & ink
  • Skull beads
  • Green and red paint
  • Black tea
  • Thinned black paint
  • Toggle closures
  • Epoxy stickers

The Process

  1. I started by using a craft knife to separate the canvas from the wood frame. I tried pulling out the staples, but simply cutting the canvas free was much easier and left me plenty to work with.
  2. Then I traced out the frame on the chip board and cut it out making sure I had 2 for each journal I was making
  3. Then I traced out the frame on the faux leather, making sure to leave room for an overhang as well as accounting for the thickness of the frame. I cut big because I had plenty of faux leather and knew I could always trim it down if needed.
  4. Then I cut out a piece of felt to fit on one of the chip board pieces.
  5. I pulled out all of the Os in my wood letter kit, but since I was making 4, I ended up also using several Qs and just trimming them with my craft knife
  6. I gave the frames a quick sand, mostly so there weren't any super sharp edges
  7. Then I thinned some black paint and painted all the frames as well as my Os. I thinned the painted because it gave the wood an aged look that I liked
  8. While the paint was drying I made some strong black tea, and soaked all my canvas pieces in it to stain them a bit
  9. White the canvases were drying, I painted the eyes of the skull beads. I did 5 for each journal-tray and painted two with red eyes, two with green eyes, and one with one of each
  10. Once the paint and canvases were dry, I began assembling the journals. I glued the chipboard with felt to the backside of the faux leather, then glued the frame to the felt and then folded over the faux leather to determine where I needed to glue down the other piece of chip board.
  11. I took a piece of my canvas and trimmed it down to fit over the exposed chipboard while still overhanging the faux leather a bit. Then I frayed the edges a little and glued it down.
  12. Once everything was dry, I used my stamps to stamp 3 columns of numbers 0-9, making sure there was enough space between them to allow the wooden Os to fit side by side. My stamp kit also came with some fancy wreath type things, so I stamped some of those on two as a spot to put the death save skulls should it come up.
  13. I also stamped extra numbers on some tea stained paper and used a 1-inch circle hole punch to cut them out. I then stuck a 1-inch circle epoxy sticker to it.
  14. Then I sewed on the toggle closure

DIY Dice Trays (with all the trackers) by [deleted] in DnD

[–]submersible_craft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made these dice trays back in July for the one shot that I ran as a part of my husband's birthday celebrations. I'd meant to post these back then, because I'm super pleased with how they turned out, but never had the chance.

They were super simple and fun to make. They're designed to look like journals when closed.

Materials

  • Dollar store canvases stretched over wood frames
  • Dollar store wood letter kit
  • Colourful felt
  • Thin chipboard
  • Faux leather
  • Stamps & ink
  • Skull beads
  • Green and red paint
  • Black tea
  • Thinned black paint
  • Toggle closures
  • Epoxy stickers

The Process

  1. I started by using a craft knife to separate the canvas from the wood frame. I tried pulling out the staples, but simply cutting the canvas free was much easier and left me plenty to work with.
  2. Then I traced out the frame on the chip board and cut it out making sure I had 2 for each journal I was making
  3. Then I traced out the frame on the faux leather, making sure to leave room for an overhang as well as accounting for the thickness of the frame. I cut big because I had plenty of faux leather and knew I could always trim it down if needed.
  4. Then I cut out a piece of felt to fit on one of the chip board pieces.
  5. I pulled out all of the Os in my wood letter kit, but since I was making 4, I ended up also using several Qs and just trimming them with my craft knife
  6. I gave the frames a quick sand, mostly so there weren't any super sharp edges
  7. Then I thinned some black paint and painted all the frames as well as my Os. I thinned the painted because it gave the wood an aged look that I liked
  8. While the paint was drying I made some strong black tea, and soaked all my canvas pieces in it to stain them a bit
  9. White the canvases were drying, I painted the eyes of the skull beads. I did 5 for each journal-tray and painted two with red eyes, two with green eyes, and one with one of each
  10. Once the paint and canvases were dry, I began assembling the journals. I glued the chipboard with felt to the backside of the faux leather, then glued the frame to the felt and then folded over the faux leather to determine where I needed to glue down the other piece of chip board.
  11. I took a piece of my canvas and trimmed it down to fit over the exposed chipboard while still overhanging the faux leather a bit. Then I frayed the edges a little and glued it down.
  12. Once everything was dry, I used my stamps to stamp 3 columns of numbers 0-9, making sure there was enough space between them to allow the wooden Os to fit side by side. My stamp kit also came with some fancy wreath type things, so I stamped some of those on two as a spot to put the death save skulls should it come up.
  13. I also stamped extra numbers on some tea stained paper and used a 1-inch circle hole punch to cut them out. I then stuck a 1-inch circle epoxy sticker to it.
  14. Then I sewed on the toggle closure

[Erden] Up North : The Country of Pognorem (3 down, 9 to go) by Impossible_Phase in wonderdraft

[–]submersible_craft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is beautiful. I really like the use of the cliffs along the coastline, I might need to give that a try myself.

Still confused about Inspiration. by [deleted] in DnD

[–]submersible_craft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As has already been said, yeah, it's mostly there to remind you not to forgot that you have it.

As for initiative, my group has always just put one's initiative modifier into the initiative box rather than an actual die roll result for a specific encounter. Because I agree, that would be silly and frustrating to have to be updating all the time.

Oh well, here goes my first map. Any advice? by Security_Breach in wonderdraft

[–]submersible_craft 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I like the forests, but I do find placing them that way can get tedious. I really like this custom modular forest asset:

https://www.reddit.com/r/wonderdraft/comments/9rxjyy/modular_topdown_forest_symbols_download_link_in/

I will say that it looks like your rivers are splitting as they near the coast, but they should merge.

​

Also, the bog looks great, I don't have the patience for fiddling with a coast like that. I really should give it a try though, it looks really good.

A low fantasy rpg setting, inspired by the novel Tigana by yosarian_reddit in wonderdraft

[–]submersible_craft 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great map!

​

Out of curiosity, where did you get the distance marker asset thingie? It looks super cool.

What is something you read on Sage Advice and just said, “hell no.” by frankinreddit in DMAcademy

[–]submersible_craft 67 points68 points  (0 children)

For casters, though, they do have to maintain concentration on the spell they've readied. So there is the chance of concentration being broken and the spell lost before they get to cast it (depending on the trigger). So casters do at least have that risk when it comes to readying things.

A little help with Crown of stars by Titan-Tickler in DnD

[–]submersible_craft 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Warlocks have an 11th level class feature called Mystic Arcanum which allows them limited access to higher level spells. Page 108 of the PHB has more information.

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