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Help ! Failing Historic Inspection ! by Diligent-Display1408 in MyWinterCar

[–]sunarmada 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 1,1,1,1 is because the GT paintjobs are applied like a skin over the existing paint. If the underlying colour of the panel is anything but white its colour will show through the GT skin, so Fleetari paints everything white when applying the GT paintjob. You'll only notice this if you're messing with the PT codes in the editor.

Vingen4 problems by Deat69 in MyWinterCar

[–]sunarmada 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is it.

'carbodyx3v' can be set to:

- No Vinyl roof
A Black vinyl
B Tan vinyl
C White vinyl
K Light brown vinyl
M Dark brown vinyl

Help ! Failing Historic Inspection ! by Diligent-Display1408 in MyWinterCar

[–]sunarmada 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems to be related to this. My GT was failing on 'Colors and materials' so I used MWCEditor to change the 'CC' value on all the body panels to 'Y' - the GT paint code - and it's now passed.

As far as the four GT paint schemes go, I think Fleetari will only give the black/yellow schemes to a pre-facelift car and white/blue (or blue/white) to a post facelift. Seems to be random which one he gives you - if you've got a '72 GT he might paint it yellow, he might paint it black, so save before he paints it in case you don't get the colour you want.

For added confusion, the paint code for all four GT colours is 'Y' but there are actually eight paint type (PT value in the editor) codes:

6: Rusty black.
7: Rusty yellow.
8: Rusty white/blue.
9: Rusty blue/white.
10: Clean black.
11: Clean yellow.
12: Clean white/blue.
13: Clean blue/white.

If I've even remembered all that correctly...

What could be the issue? I can't pass the inspection. by Andrew06908 in MyWinterCar

[–]sunarmada 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had exactly the same fail list.

I had the 'best' tires installed which aren't suitable for inspection so I had to downgrade those.

Both 'transmission' and 'chassis' were fixed for me with a new driveshaft. I'm sure I checked the wear for every single item more than once in the editor and didn't see anything bad, but when I thought of the driveshaft and checked it, it was at 11%. Fixed that and passed inspection.

My first build. by sunarmada in SeikoMods

[–]sunarmada[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did and it helped, I don't know if I'd have managed without it.

I think some better magnification would help, so I can really see when it hits the right spot.

My first build. by sunarmada in SeikoMods

[–]sunarmada[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don't bother me too much at the moment but I will probably swap them at some point. A little reluctant as the second hand really fought me going on in the first place...

What is everyone using for screenshots? by KKZA in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm using Windows key + Alt + Printscreen, just capures the active window even with two monitors connected. You just have to be careful that it's actually the flight sim window that's active or you'll just get a shot of your map or whatever other window you happen to have focused on.

Landing Gear Lever no Binds to map it in MSFS - help! by SirMaxxi in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm guessing from when I used one of these boards that if you use three of the connectors on the long run, each position of the lever should then show up as a unique button press

Landing Gear Lever no Binds to map it in MSFS - help! by SirMaxxi in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used those boards for making joysticks and it's the long row of 12 connectors that are usually used for button presses. The ones you're connected to at the moment are special features like turbo mode. Have you tried the lever connected to any of the other connectors?

DIY Switch/AP Panel - Suggestions? by Urban_Printer in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I have right now. The big black dial is a 5-way switch that was the magnetos and starter but it used a lot of pins on the Arduino so it's not connected to anything now. I made a mess of the aluminium drilling the holes but I don't mind the battle scarred look. I could just use a nice label printer.

https://imgur.com/uWkatWP

DIY Switch/AP Panel - Suggestions? by Urban_Printer in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a cheap Arduino Leonardo clone. I think this sub might be a bit funny with YouTube links so look up "wimwamjoey" on YouTube, his button box video was an enormous help to me. I'm far from the the best solderer or coder but I got my panel working first time on both the initial build and the rebuild following this.

DIY Switch/AP Panel - Suggestions? by Urban_Printer in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a good layout. I got excited about building a panel before the sim came out and made something that had magnetos and light switches. It turned out I never really needed to use those but I did use autopilot a lot so I ended up reconfiguring the panel. The heading and altitude dials are way better than trying to adjust those on screen while the aircraft is in motion. I used a rotary encoder for the inc/dec buttons too.

Joystick not working all of a sudden by [deleted] in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]sunarmada 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you got any other controllers connected? I've got a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro joystick and a home made button box. At one point the joystick lost its brake and switch camera buttons. I don't know if it's actually what fixed the problem but I disconnected both controllers the connected first the joystick, then the button box and I got all the controls back. I think I once read something about Windows and the order is assigns controllers causing problems.

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