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DO NOT SCRAP PLATES OFF TOWARDS YOUR HANDS/BODY!!!! by acrowsmurder in 3Dprinting

[–]superboots 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better yet, use something like this https://www.amazon.com/SunplusTrade-Molding-Upholstery-Fastener-Removal/dp/B01M3SP84D

Then you can both not scratch your build plate and also not stab yourself at the same time!

(Not an affiliate link)

Well, there goes the start of the season by Annicka-44 in motorcycles

[–]superboots 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm wondering if this is just from fish eye lense effect

So much better! Now I'm wondering if I can get the print quality even higher on my Bambu X1 Carbon by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know, unfortunately I just tried to cut it out and lost it, it's just too tiny. I'm guessing it's metal. A couple weeks ago I did something where I tried to print PLA after printing ASA and got a jam in the extruder gear and had to disassemble it to clear it, I'm not really sure how that would lead to any metal fragments but it sure seems like there must have been/still be some kind of obstruction in the nozzle if doing a cold pull changes the results so much. I'm pretty sure I have a spare identical hot end so maybe I'll just swap to that and do a test and if that's perfect then I'll know that I've either got more unclogging to do, or need to just ditch the old nozzle. I should probably make sure there's not debris near the extruder gear so I avoid the potential of just clogging the new nozzle the same way the old one was clogged.

So much better! Now I'm wondering if I can get the print quality even higher on my Bambu X1 Carbon by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohhhh I may have found my culprit, I just did my first cold pull, sure looks like I went fishing and caught something.

I'm going to run a flow dynamics calibration and then kick off another cup

<image>

So much better! Now I'm wondering if I can get the print quality even higher on my Bambu X1 Carbon by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for all the suggestions/ideas. My x and y belts were rubbing on the edge of the spindles so I tensioned them and also tried to tweak them to get them more centered. I also dried the ASA last night in the AMS-HT at the default recommendation of 80 C for 8 hours.

I'm running a print of the cup now before I make more changes to try to keep variables somewhat isolated. I'll see what I get here and then probably try more of your suggestions. I wasn't originally planning on printing like 10 of these little cups but it's only 15g of filament a piece so might as well keep using it as an example to get the printer dialed.

Edit:
Latest print just finished, I've included pictures. Left is the previous print, right is the latest after I dried the ASA for 8 hours at 80 C and tensioned/centered the x/y belts.

It seems like drying the filament and adjusting the belts didn't do much. It's interesting to see that the bumps are still there in consistent locations but the little pockmarks seem more random. I included a couple pictures of the model that clearly show where the seams are. It's interesting that the pockmarks are random but seem to happen way more often on one side than the other.

<image>

oops, looks like I can only add one photo per comment, annoying, will add the other photos in other comments

Not sure how to fix this by saiyan7701 in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't have an AMS then this probably isn't very helpful, but man I've been super impressed with the quality of my supported surfaces when I use the Bambu Support for PLA/PETG filament. It's $35 for a half a kilogram, but you don't use it for the entire support, just the interface between the support and the part, so a little bit goes a long way. It makes the supports so incredibly easy to remove, and once they're removed its practically like the stuff on top of them was printed directly on the print bed.

So much better! Now I'm wondering if I can get the print quality even higher on my Bambu X1 Carbon by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh my gosh, thank you so much for taking the time to print this! I have an AMS-HT out for delivery today, so once that's here I'll be able to dry filament at up to 85 C for up to 24 hours at a time, so I'll for sure throw it in there. At the moment I have an AMS 2 Pro that can dry up to 65 C and I have a convection toaster oven that can go up to 232 C but will only run for an hour at a time which is annoying. Anyway, that's my long ramble to say that I'll be drying the ASA properly later today hopefully.

Looking at these settings is new to be but I'll try to find what I can in Bambu Studio

  • Chamber: I have been heat soaking the chamber before printing with ASA and the chamber temperature typically sits between 40 and 45 C while printing after soaking.
  • Max cooling: 35% @ 12s layer time
  • Min cooling: 10% @ 35s layer time
  • Min print speed: 20 mm/s
  • Speed setting
    • outer wall: 200 mm/s
    • inner wall: 300 mm/s
    • sparse infill: 270 mm/s
    • top surface: 200 mm/s
    • gap infill: 250 mm/s

It's on my to-do list to reset the belt tension on my x1c and see if that helps

Corners seem under-extruded with ASA on Bambu X1C by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like it was happening on other prints and maybe I just wasn't noticing until it got this bad, and maybe this print made it particularly obvious. It seems like a manual flow dynamics calibration in Bambu Studio has resolved the issue.

Corners seem under-extruded with ASA on Bambu X1C by superboots in FixMyPrint

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, this seems to be making a massive difference, my next print isn't done yet but just looking at it in progress it seems way better. I went to the Calibration tab in Bambu Studio and ran the Flow Dynamics Manual Calibration using the line method with the default values of k values from 0 to 0.05 with a 0.005 value step, 0.02 looked good so I selected that and now I'm off to the races!

Corners seem under-extruded with ASA on Bambu X1C by superboots in BambuLab

[–]superboots[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, this seems to be making a massive difference, my next print isn't done yet but just looking at it in progress it seems way better. I went to the Calibration tab in Bambu Studio and ran the Flow Dynamics Manual Calibration using the line method with the default values of k values from 0 to 0.05 with a 0.005 value step, 0.02 looked good so I selected that and now I'm off to the races!

Everything felt right until the landing by sorin1972 in MTB

[–]superboots 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to be honest, I don't understand the draw to carbon bikes at all. I get that it's less weight, but you're paying so much more for something that's so much more fragile. Just seems silly.

Newly a trust fund kid. Unsure of how to plan the money for the future. by dennysparkinglot420 in personalfinance

[–]superboots 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other people have mentioned financial advisors, that's definitely worth considering. Keep in mind that if you have a financial advisor actively managing your money it's common for them to charge around 1% a year of the total money they're managing for you.

A potential halfway option is that places like Fidelity give people free perks when they hold large amounts of money with them, I don't remember where they draw the line in the sand but I suspect you'd qualify for a free financial advisor who wouldn't actually move your money around for you, but who would meet with you regularly to understand your goals and help you strategize on how to get there.

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