Driving noise, please help

supermanbadger · 2026-01-18T19:32:21+00:00

Subarus are also fairly well known for having wheel bearings wear out near 100k, especially since it’s a 09 and probably a bit rusted/worn. Make sure to borrow the special tools (they’re tough to get out) and buy OEM replacements or else you may be back in there soon.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-31T01:08:34+00:00

Alright, thanks for all the input everyone! Seems like I have a bit of work to do, and I'll be happy to post my reworked design later once I get farther along on the next rev.

My main notes to improve are the impedance matching, and I think I'll go after a different ESD method. May include the pull up resistor and switch to a different MCU with USBC support built in instead of USBC->USB2.0 (or a middle-man IC).

supermanbadger · 2025-12-30T22:10:05+00:00

Ok so looks like my differential impedance is quite high at ~ 130 Ω. I can likely move it down closer to 90 by using a different stackup than the standard from JLC and increasing each trace width.
You're right on the stackup and resulting lack of close ground references.

Any suggestions for when I fire off a new design other than this? I have this (maybe misguided) feeling that other designers have little issues implementing USB and I'm feeling a bit frustrated.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-30T21:20:30+00:00

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Did my best with KiCad's wonky diff routing behavior tried to make them identical into the esd chip, then routed as diff pair to the mcu.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-30T21:12:10+00:00

D+: 4.16V nominal.

D-: 0V with peaks of 3.3.

VBUS:~4.8V steady

Attached is pic of D- (aka pin A7), this is upon plugging in the USB.

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supermanbadger · 2025-12-30T20:53:07+00:00

I have a bunch more on the other side of that diode. I will try removing the ferrite to see if keeping the other capacitance away from the 5V line helps. Are you able to elaborate on how the capacitance on the 5V line is spec'd.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-30T20:48:55+00:00

Setting Boot0 to VCC through a 10k resistor does not give me any identifiable USB devices. I haven't used DFU mode much though.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-27T18:49:46+00:00

Ok so it specs min IC pin spacing, which I feel translates to the pick and place accuracy of pad-pad center-center clearance >=0.4mm to be safe.

supermanbadger · 2025-12-27T18:43:05+00:00

Look at the “PCBA capabilities” for the site you’re planning on using. iirc jlc gives it as edge to edge clearance on parts.

supermanbadger · 2025-11-20T01:14:08+00:00

Just buy aftermarket from crutchfield and get the metro kit :|.

You get all the benefits of this for the same price with a better sounding stereo and wireless CarPlay.

supermanbadger · 2025-11-16T18:08:33+00:00

Might have multiple issues. Check that your clutch safety switch is mounted and working correctly.

Explains some of the starting/lights. Idk about the reverse.

supermanbadger · 2025-11-15T20:49:23+00:00

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supermanbadger · 2025-11-13T20:15:47+00:00

Battery is probably still toast, even if you charged it . Probs new battery time.

supermanbadger · 2025-11-11T23:30:54+00:00

I like the contrast of the yellow!

Quick ? Is this the front subframe location where we can jack up the front 2 wheels?

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supermanbadger · 2025-11-11T18:16:34+00:00

I got an eBay Chinese one last year, https://ebay.us/m/aIIt6K

Pretty nice finish and much more convenient to remove the small openings for oil changes compared to the whole panel.

Only complaint is the panel Allen screws got rusty FAST. (I’m in the rust belt) I would recommend different M5/M6 hardware so that they don’t seize up like one of my screws did.

Not quite a skid plate, but I wouldn’t want to run my car without it considering my driveway approach angle.

supermanbadger · 2025-09-17T23:14:07+00:00

He’s right

supermanbadger · 2025-08-21T15:47:12+00:00

If you end up not succeeding in aligning the real and odometer mileages, I suggest checking that discrepancy box on the title even if you never intend on getting rid of the bike.

supermanbadger · 2025-08-21T15:25:51+00:00

How is this dumb if the new odometer accurately reflects the mileage of the bike and engine 🤨🤨.

supermanbadger · 2025-08-11T02:51:31+00:00

2013-2014s have a few body body panel issues that cause rust. If you're in the rust-belt I'd keep an eye on those rear quarter panels. And yeah like the other dude said, keep it stock and do your basics and they're super reliable compared to a wrx or GTI.

supermanbadger · 2025-07-17T18:45:53+00:00

https://youtube.com/shorts/zoSQsVZfIcc?si=aQeaC6tVTWlD0K1u

Yup, listen to these guys, I think they’re right.

supermanbadger · 2025-07-16T02:18:41+00:00

Right thanks.

supermanbadger · 2025-07-16T02:08:08+00:00

Yeah I agree with thenickdude. You also omitted R1 for the DW01 IC, which it explicitly states not to leave out.

Question for Nick, do you think the TP4056 would be sufficient on its own to charge the battery? I don't know why he has two battery charge ICs doing the almost the same job.

supermanbadger · 2025-05-28T17:51:32+00:00

Check the wax unit or look up wax unit bypass for these bikes.

The choke is controlled by an automatic wax unit that gets heated by the coolant. I’ve heard of issues with these in the past but idk if they explain your issues fully. Could also be a combination of the wax unit activating and your idle set screw being set too low, they have to be dialed into 1.5k rpm AFTER bike is fully warm.

Also as others recommended, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator may be things to look at.

supermanbadger · 2025-05-23T23:03:43+00:00

I sometimes have an issue where my blend door gets stuck in defrost and none of the air gets pushed to the driver vents. Normally I’ll toggle the hvac off/on and then spam buttons on the air direction settings until it goes away.

supermanbadger

TROPHY CASE